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This is a discussion on Up pipe within the Engine Modifications forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Hey everybody! I'm curious, should replace my up pipe when I'm stage one? Any problems if I don't? Or should ...

  1. #1
    Registered User skinikko's Avatar
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    Up pipe

    Hey everybody! I'm curious, should replace my up pipe when I'm stage one? Any problems if I don't? Or should I wait for the down pipe?

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    \_(ツ)_/ Rambo's Avatar
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    What year is your car?

    The downpipe will need to come off (or at least partially removed) to access all the uppipe bolts, so it's easiest to do both at once. Installing a catless uppipe does not require a tune.
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    Quick answer, if you have a catted UP then replace it ASAP. If it is not catted, don't replace it unless you're going EWG.

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    Registered User skinikko's Avatar
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    Re: Up pipe

    It's an 04

    Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2

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    Registered User EndlessSea's Avatar
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    well 04 came with the 2.0L engine, which came with a catted uppipe. so if it still has the factory uppipe, then yes, replace it immediately

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    Registered User skinikko's Avatar
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    Re: Up pipe

    Okay thanks. Even if it is on a stage one tune? I would really like to go stage two and start messing with the dp and up pipe after I pay off the car.

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  8. #7
    Registered User Ruh Roh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinikko View Post
    Okay thanks. Even if it is on a stage one tune? I would really like to go stage two and start messing with the dp and up pipe after I pay off the car.

    Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2
    i would even for stock or stage 1 just as a precaution.

  9. #8
    Registered User skinikko's Avatar
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    Re: Up pipe

    Okay kewl. Prob would benefit of getting tuned after installation?

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  10. #9
    zax
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinikko View Post
    Okay kewl. Prob would benefit of getting tuned after installation?

    Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2
    You'll be OK with running an uppipe with no change in the tune.
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinikko View Post
    Okay kewl. Prob would benefit of getting tuned after installation?

    Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2
    I agree with zax, there is no need to retune the ECU.

    Changing an up pipe isn't fun. If you can combine it with something else it might be an easier pill to swallow.
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    Registered User Ruh Roh's Avatar
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    You will need to tune for the downpipe incase your confused. its easier to do the up and down at same time. its really not too bad of an install. loosening motor mounts and jacking up motor a bit made it easier to get the old one out. most of the time your just sitting under the car figuring out how to get a wrench in there around the heat shields lol.

  13. #12
    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    Yes that's a good approach I think. Loosen the motor, and use a piece of wood to spread the force of the jack so you don't collapse the sump. Or if you can chain it from above properly that'd be classier I suppose. Then swear at the shields plus worry about the studs snapping after all this time etc. There's plenty of how-to threads around but they don't capture the excitement!
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    OMG WTF MainFrame's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EndlessSea View Post
    well 04 came with the 2.0L engine, which came with a catted uppipe.


    that's assuming it's a base model WRX and not a STi

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    \_(ツ)_/ Rambo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ruh Roh View Post
    its really not too bad of an install.


    I dropped the whole header assembly, instead of just the right side manifold. Getting the heat shielding and stock downpipe off is probably the worst part. I invented all sorts of new swear words trying to reach some of those bolts...

    Once the heat shielding and downpipe are out though, it isn't too bad, I suppose.

    Couple things:
    *PB Blaster is your best friend. Absolutely mandatory to have on hand.
    *Go on a socket shopping spree. If you've been looking for an excuse to buy more tools. Now is a good time. I found my 12" ratchet extension very helpful. Pick up six-point sockets if you don't already have them. I'm told flex joint socket extensions are helpful, but I didn't use mine.
    *Get a breaker bar. Mine is 18", I think. (giggity)
    *Buy or rent an O2 sensor socket. That's an easy thing to forget, but you'll absolutely need to remove the front O2 sensor to get the heat shielding off. (**** move on Subarus part. See my build thread for how I cut the shielding to fix it).
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  16. #15
    Master Baiter EJ257's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rambo


    Quote Originally Posted by Rambo
    I dropped the whole header assembly, instead of just the right side manifold. Getting the heat shielding and stock downpipe off is probably the worst part. I invented all sorts of new swear words trying to reach some of those bolts...

    Once the heat shielding and downpipe are out though, it isn't too bad, I suppose.

    Couple things:
    *PB Blaster is your best friend. Absolutely mandatory to have on hand.
    *Go on a socket shopping spree. If you've been looking for an excuse to buy more tools. Now is a good time. I found my 12" ratchet extension very helpful. Pick up six-point sockets if you don't already have them. I'm told flex joint socket extensions are helpful, but I didn't use mine.
    *Get a breaker bar. Mine is 18", I think. (giggity)
    *Buy or rent an O2 sensor socket. That's an easy thing to forget, but you'll absolutely need to remove the front O2 sensor to get the heat shielding off. (**** move on Subarus part. See my build thread for how I cut the shielding to fix it).
    I use my jack handle for additional torque.

    I would never use a 12-point socket/wrench; always use 6 (less chance of rounding the bolt/nut).

    O2 socket is $5 from Harbor Freight. Just buy one.

    PB Blaster rocks. Spray liberally, ideally a day or two before the install, as well. Anything you can do to break through the rust of a ~10 year old vehicle helps.
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