TBE install disaster 07 WRX

[jackal87]

So here's the skinny. I was installing the Cobb Turbo Back Exhaust on my 07 WRX and it has been an utter disaster. It started well, with little trouble removing the heat shield, however, once the car had been jacked up, that's when the nightmare starts. With the Cobb system I am required to use the stock bolts on the car, however, I have had one of these bolts snap on me(which was the bolt on the j-hook, holding the mid-pipe). Half of the exhaust is off the car, with the downpipe and the mid-pipe still connected. I tried with all my might to loosen the nuts holding the mid-pipe and downpipe together, but to no avail. I have sprayed the bolts several times with Blaster penetrating lube in hopes of getting the bolts loose. My other concern with the install is that the bolts on the car now are extremely rusty and I would like to replace the bolts. My google-fu has failed me and I cannot find the size of the bolts that are on the car, so I was hoping if someone on here could point me in the right direction. I appreciate any help that y'all can offer.

[Obeisance]

I don't know if it'll be much help, but here is my suggestion: what do you think about using either a lot of wd40 and an easy out to remove the sheared bolt or to drill it out and re tap the hole?

Or perhaps I misunderstand and you didn't shear off a bolt? Anyhow, I sometimes just use a wire wheel to clean rusty bolts and then I use anti seize on the bolts for re installation.

[MainFrame]

If it were me I would grab a cheater bar and go to town. If they snap off, who cares? Like you already said, they're all rusted. If the remnants get stuck after breaking the nut or head off, I'd probably heat it with a cutting torch and have at it with a tap and mallet, then if that didn't work, go the drill route. Maybe even invest in a stud extraction kit.

Once everything is all done take all the bolts you want to replace down to your local Loews or Home Depot. If rust is such a problem in your part of the country I would spend a little extra on stainless steel bolts. I wouldn't imagine replacing all of them would cost more than $10-$15.

[Terminal Kuz]

Tap and Dye kits are a great investment. So is an air impact drive, but if you dont have a compressor you can use just a battery drill with the proper attachments.

[jackal87]

Obeisance: Yeah, I sheared the bolt. The head snapped off the bolt. Due to the part affected, I was planning on using an extractor to get the remainder of the bolt out. I had not considered the wire wheel to clean up the bolts.

MainFrame: I was going to take the bolts down to Home Depot or Lowes, as that was my first reaction. I think that I will invest in a stud extractor kit, seems like it is something that would be worth having around.

Terminal: You know, I was going to invest in a good air impact drive and impact sockets before I started this whole thing, and with hindsight being 20/20, I might just do it to avoid this situation in the future. And about the Tap and Dye kits, I am starting to think this as well.


It seems that I have a lot of options to explore. Thanks guys for the opinions and suggestions, I will report back after I have made some progress.

[teflon_jones]

It's recommended to buy new midpipe spring bolts as they commonly are too corroded to use again. I guess you didn't read that info before doing your install.

I don't see anything about you using penetrating oil. That's an absolute must on any install on anything other than a brand new car. Spray all bolts, tap them, let it sit for at least a couple of hours, spray again, see if you can loosen them. If any are really stubborn, repeat process.

[jackal87]

Teflon: I used penetrating lube on all the bolts/nuts under the car multiple times. Unfortunately I did not read about using new midpipe spring bolts, although I had already made the decision to replace the bolts after taking one look at them. I appreciate your suggestion.