This is a discussion on need advice within the Engine Modifications forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Bewbs. You need moar bewbs....
Bewbs. You need moar bewbs.
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Originally Posted by Mikie13
Whether it's enough to balance out the (large) upfront cost as well as any long term durability issues - that's all in your department.
Keep in mind, once you get in to that power range... a bullet proof engine just isn't bullet proof. The engine will probably break again down the road in a few years (sadly). At that point you may have some more cash around for the head work.
2011 STi Build LogOriginally Posted by Trainrex
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-Part 1 - Reading, Data Logging, and Analyzing Data
-Part 2 - Turbocharger 101 & Basic Boost Control
-Part 3 - EcuFlash, Experimental Defintions, and a Drive By Wire Intro
You want to at least refresh the heads. I probably would skip doing the PnP to save money.
I would do the cams (which require the springs and retainers).
I'd keep the stock valves if they can be reused, or order stock replacements.
PnP is relatively expensive for the gains compared to cams. The plus side to PnP is that you should see gains across the entire powerband. If you have to pick one, cams are more bang for the buck.
Beehive springs are good because they are basically a progressive rate spring allowing for less loss of power compared to a stiff dual spring setup while still retaining the needed pressure at high revs.
Originally Posted by GSC Power-Divsion
If there is any indication of wear to the stock valves I would just go ahead and replace them with aftermarket. If you are already replacing valves it does not cost much at all to go with aftermarket valves. Quality aftermarket valves are both lighter and stronger allowing the engine to rev faster, less strain on the valve train, more resistant to heat, etc. Ferrea makes great valves, and the shape of the super alloy valves themselves increase air flow resulting in more power. I have also heard good things about Supertech valves. BC makes a decent inexpensive valve, but after about six months in my engine one of them was burnt so I went ahead and paid the additional cost (like $40) to go with Ferrea.
On the other hand, if the stock valves are in perfect condition the cost/performance increase you would get from aftermarket valves isn't really that great so it's something that could be skipped.
pm from micah (3MI)
To realistically dive into a heads properly, carrying over buckets and not counting cams...you're looking at $xxxx or so with your supplying cores. That's bronze-manganese valve guides, Ferrea Comp Plus valves, Ferrea dual valve springs, Ferrea valve seals, and port work. All of my work is a custom job carried out by headworks. It's the good stuff.
I really don't think you need it unless you are really trying to get that LAST BIT out of your set up. Most people also ignore the increased heat rejected to the cooling system via thinner exhaust ports...food for thought on track days.
With you not seeming so worried about the top end of the curve and this being a fast street car/DD set up, don't sweat the heads. It's my $0.02. If you do want to get heads done, I'm happy to get it all done for you.
I'd suggest GTX3582R or going with a good 272 setup before I said dropping the extra money on portwork.
^sound advice. There are more economical ways to go about making more power (ie, larger turbo). But it all does work together as a complete system.