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This is a discussion on need advice within the Engine Modifications forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; i have a job, i'm just out on disability right now....

  1. #16
    Registered User shadowpr's Avatar
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    i have a job, i'm just out on disability right now.

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  3. #17
    Registered User shadowpr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shadowpr View Post
    ok, i found the built short block that i want. not sure when i'm going to get it, but i have a question.

    what else is needed when installing a new short block?

    timing belt kit, water pump, oil pump (which one and size?), spark plugs, head gaskets, what else?
    bueller?

    also, they said Itís a NON-nitrided stock crank.

    Yes, balanced, but statically. Crank is balanced .25g @ 1000 rpm. Rods and pistons are weight matched to within .25g.

    does this sound good?

  4. #18
    Registered User shadowpr's Avatar
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    anyone?

  5. #19
    Registered User MainFrame's Avatar
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    NON-nitrided stock crank is fine if you're not going for huge numbers. Balanced is good, I went ahead and had my full rotating assembly balanced by Watt's Machine shop. You never said what rods or pistons, that's important. Are the pistons drop in, or are you going to have the case halves bored to the piston size? The later is better because you can get the piston to wall clearance just right. Also things like rod bolts and wrist pins are often overlooked, and the type of hone and rings that are going in are good to know.


    If you're getting it built by AWDTuning they will have a list of everything they recommend to be replaced with it.. of course it doesn't hurt to ask if there is anything else that would be a good idea to upgrade while you're at it.

  6. #20
    Registered User shadowpr's Avatar
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    i'm looking at the honeybadger from TIC. It was spec'd out by Micah from 3MI.

    It's his custom pistons and rods.

    I asked about if the case halves are bored, and about the rod bolts and wrist pins.


    What else needs to go into a new engine? oil pump, water pump, timing belt, head gasket.

  7. #21
    Registered User shadowpr's Avatar
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    Rod bolts are ARP L19

    Wrist pins are a 22mm tool steel.

  8. #22
    Registered User MainFrame's Avatar
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    All of the above, possibly pulleys, tensoner, cam seals, there's probably a hundred small parts. The builder should already have a list detailing everything that is required along with cost.

    That engine from TiC should be a winner.. I'm thinking about having Micah do my next shortblock.


    Have you thought about heads? I would at least have them refreshed before bolting them down. S1 cams (264) would go a long ways toward improving your powerband as well.

  9. #23
    Registered User shadowpr's Avatar
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    i don't think i will need to really do any head work.

  10. #24
    Registered User shadowpr's Avatar
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    they said compression with my stock heads would be Just about 8.8:1

    how does that sound?

  11. #25
    Master Baiter EJ257's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shadowpr
    i don't think i will need to really do any head work.
    If you choose to go with a really conservative tune for now, in an effort to keep the motor intact, I'd suggest putting some money aside for heads/cams as well when you do the SB. Go mild with cams (GSC S1s, for example) and just get a slight refresh/PnP, and you'll completely transform the car (heads/cams alone will net you a bunch of power, but cranking up the boost/timing as well, considering your block can support it, you'll be giggling like a little schoolgirl).

    Aside from a bit more overhead, there are no downsides to headwork/cams.
    2005 WRX STi (Mods | Virtual Dyno)

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  12. #26
    Registered User shadowpr's Avatar
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    i think i'm just going to sit on all these parts until i can get teh sb.

    would tghe cams allow me to rev higher as well?

  13. #27
    Master Baiter EJ257's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shadowpr
    i think i'm just going to sit on all these parts until i can get teh sb.

    would tghe cams allow me to rev higher as well?
    They would allow you to utilize the RPM band better (no loss in low-end, moderate gains mid-range, worthwhile gains upper-end). A mild set of cams (e.g., GSC S1s) would probably net you ~25whp, maybe more, in the upper RPMs. With a block built to withstand higher RPMs, instead of your heads/cams choking the motor, you'll be breathing freely.
    2005 WRX STi (Mods | Virtual Dyno)

    Resident Tuner @ WTF Tuning, LLC

    "Never trust anything that bleeds for a week and lives ..."

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  14. #28
    Registered User shadowpr's Avatar
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    damn you.

    that just added another 1k to the build.

  15. #29
    Master Baiter EJ257's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shadowpr
    damn you.

    that just added another 1k to the build.
    Like I said, if you're waiting on the SB, and can put it off until you have the funds, you should do them while the motor is out. If not, then skip them.

    Cams on a Subaru isn't as easy as on an Evo, unfortunately.
    2005 WRX STi (Mods | Virtual Dyno)

    Resident Tuner @ WTF Tuning, LLC

    "Never trust anything that bleeds for a week and lives ..."

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  16. #30
    Registered User shadowpr's Avatar
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    i keep going back and forth about whether to get it now, install what i have and hope the current sb lasts, or just wait till later and get the sb and then install everything.

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