I have NEVER heard of a 16G spooling near 4000. I have seen plenty of 16G, EVO3 16G dyno charts, and even driven a 2.0L WRX w/ EVO3 16G. All spool somewhere around 3200-3500rpm. The newer 16G-XT may spool a little later (just past 3500 RPM). Even an 18G on 2.0L should spool a little before 4000RPM.
I have no idea where you got those late spool numbers from, but they are wrong, car had a crap tune, or something was wrong with the block. Regardless, I think 19T will be great for autoX and you will be happy with the turbo (at least for a while).
Due to a mix-up in communications I ended up getting Blouch's exhaust inlet porting done for $95. Kind of pricey for that amount of porting. :/
The rebuild consisted of a minor rebuild kit (bearings, thrust bearing, seals and o-rings) and the 19T wheel. The grand total was $520 and it came with OEM style gaskets.
Yes, yes I can hear the 16G people saying for ~$200 more you'd have gotten a much better turbo.
This is about as thick and wide as I think I can go. 7 layers versus 3 for the one I did last month. Having the turbo off the WRX made it far easier to fit and snug down. I hope it does not interfere with the install at the end of the week.
This has to help with heat soak - I'll need it this weekend. Temps are expected to be near 100. :unhappy:
Don't need a ton considering the TD04 and only the bell mouth part of the DP to cover (don't want to cover the cat). I've also been considering expanding on the OEM heat shield, but insulation is likely easier, and more effective. When I still had the tiny 06 TMIC heat soak wasn't as much of an issue as it is with the STI TMIC.
5 layers of the thicker brown stuff (4 full width) and two of the foil / fabric. The foil has thinner fabric on the reverse side. Wrap 1.0 (2 layers) is inside 3.0.
If you ceramic coat the top of the heat sheild,maybe even say some high temp header paint,it would reduce any radiant heat. My turbo blanket actually wraps around the downpipe flanges as well. Then my downpipe from the flange to the turn where it goes under the car is wrapped. Cuts down a good amount of heat.
It will be fun at various times. There will be times I scream and #@&!* up a storm. It will be the most fun when I take it out and start logging. Oh, yes ... lots of pics. I plan on taking pics as I disassemble less familiar parts of the engine so I know how to put them back together.
The first thing I did was test my recently reloaded notebook and its ability to test flash a map with the most recent posted version of ECU Flash. I'll need to do this when all is finished.
Fail. Windows 7 can be picky about administrative rights. I looked at the log window during the attempt and noticed there was a .dll file that failed to load. :unhappy:
I found several instances of the file. The one that mattered was in a sub folder of C:\Windows\System32\DriverStore\FileRepository. The user I was logged in as (with full local admin permissions) did not have rights to the file.
I added the user with full control permissions to that .dll and what do you know ... the test was then successful.
I got the WRX on ramps (with two jacks) and removed the IC. I discussed the job with my neighbor and called it a night. I'll start up again tomorrow.
Everything is off - now for the reassembly. I took many images during the process. I'm pitifully slow at car work. I'm taking a dinner break now.
This is not my garage - I have none. My neighbor was kind enough to let me use it. He is a professional automotive tech as well, so if I screw the pooch he can hopefully rescue me. All I owe him in return is a notebook internal video cable replacement. Way easier than what I'm doing now - I <3 bartering.
No, never found a better fix for the radiator. My temporary fix is still working nicely. I plan on making it a little more substantial while I'm doing all this other work.
Sweet deal. I have got to get myself an A/C unit in my garage, even if it's just for show! You know, on NASIOC there's a how-to pictorial with a guy doing a timing belt and water pump, and he's wearing a dress shirt with barrel cuffs buttoned.
When I did my timing belt and water pump I really wanted to wear a shirt with cufflinks (to up the ante!) and post the pics but never got around to it. You might consider something like that. Maybe rent a tux or something?
Have you seen Big Sky's post years ago about the "chimney" style heat shield for his turbo? Might be worth a look if it's still around.
Sweet deal. I have got to get myself an A/C unit in my garage, even if it's just for show! You know, on NASIOC there's a how-to pictorial with a guy doing a timing belt and water pump, and he's wearing a dress shirt with barrel cuffs buttoned.
When I did my timing belt and water pump I really wanted to wear a shirt with cufflinks (to up the ante!) and post the pics but never got around to it. You might consider something like that. Maybe rent a tux or something?
I never got or ordered new studs for the 19T. It would have been nice if Blouch included them. The Deadbolt turbo had them. In all my effort trying to gather all the required parts I forgot about the studs.
The studs in the Deadbolt turbo won't budge. Joel (my neighbor and automotive tech hero) is taking the turbo to work tomorrow to torch the studs out. I was hoping to have the turbo and downpipe finished tonight.
Update Saturday 7/23: Joel was able to find some closely matching studs at the dealership he works at. I lost an hour or so getting those. The old studs will not budge even with a torch. I have just started to put the manifold all back together. Damn I'm slow - I'll likely be finishing tomorrow.
Some pics ...
I was pleasantly surprised how clean the intake ports are in the heads.
The manifold that I hope I can reassemble and install.
A topless Boxer.
Yep - it will take 3 days for me to do this. This is the most complex install I have ever attempted. I do not get much practice, so it will take more time than many others are capable of.
Allow around six hours for install time. Professional installation, depending on your area, is around $400. This is one vehicle modification that is fairly complicated and should only be tackled by those with extensive Subaru experience".
This is not me.
I took much of the day getting the intake manifold ready for installation. I'm not entirely trusting of my ability, so I err on the side of caution. This requires many checks, rechecks and time. A leaking fuel line under the intake manifold at first start up would make for an unpleasant experience.
After one last check tomorrow morning, I am confident the manifold is good to go.
I have learned an awful lot about the layout of the fuel delivery components on the 2.0L. I have been reading about them for years, not ever having actually worked with them. Nothing like hands on experience.
I have no post worthy pics as all the ones I have taken today were for mostly reinstall reference and are largely boring.
Joel, my neighbor and garage host has only done some minor thread fixing work for a few troublesome fasteners. I told him from day one I am determined to do all of this myself for the DIY satisfaction.
Do it to it man. I had to tackle new TGV gaskets, all new injector o-rings, injector cleaning, intake manifold gaskets, numerous sensor replacements, and a few other small things on my 02 only 6 months after purchasing it. It's no fun, but it's doable. You learn a LOT in the process.
Thos damn green brackets were the biggest pain out of all of it.
Do it to it man. I had to tackle new TGV gaskets, all new injector o-rings, injector cleaning, intake manifold gaskets, numerous sensor replacements, and a few other small things on my 02 only 6 months after purchasing it. It's no fun, but it's doable. You learn a LOT in the process.
Thos damn green brackets were the biggest pain out of all of it.
Fortunately it was a simple fix (for a pro). As my neighbor and I thought it was indeed an electrical issue. Turns out even though the #1 injector plug felt fully seated, it had not made full contact with the terminals on the injector.
An image of the new injectors prior to final assembly:
I had the WRX flatbed transported to Phoenix Performance.
February 2014 update:
Kurt left Phoenix several months ago. Based on a recent negative service issue, I can no longer recommended Phoenix.
Why you should seriously consider the TGV delete mod:
The intake ports on the heads were nearly perfectly clean. I have used almost nothing but Sunoco Ultra 93 for 7+ years. It seems they put enough detergent in the gasoline to keep the intake clean.
The same cannot be said about the OEM TGV bodies. The small amount of deposits in the heads seems to have come directly from the OEM TGVs. Below are a few images I took of them today before I send them back to GS for the core refund. These seem to indicate the flow of air & fuel is slowed considerably as it tumbles and makes its way past the butterfly valve - closed or open.
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