((--Garage Build 2.0 - 2.5 NEED INPUT, specialized questions. thx--))
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This is a discussion on ((--Garage Build 2.0 - 2.5 NEED INPUT, specialized questions. thx--)) within the Engine Modifications forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Intro: just bought a 2002 WRX wagon 133,000 miles, with rod knock for 4k, with 5k left to spend on ...

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    Registered User twistymaster's Avatar
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    ((--Garage Build 2.0 - 2.5 NEED INPUT, specialized questions. thx--))

    Intro: just bought a 2002 WRX wagon 133,000 miles, with rod knock for 4k, with 5k left to spend on the repair. If I do it in my own garage. . Though Iíve never done a Subaru, I have done plenty of builds in the past, and am fully excited and capable of doing the swap in my garage ďI believe.Ē
    My plan

    To build a good gas mileage high performance bug-eyed wagon. I donít need 100,000 horsepower to take corners and get to my climbing spots.
    With a stronger then factory engine, with slightly more off boost acceleration. That still gets closer to 30 mpg. CAN it be done??
    Been looking into a 2.5 block from Import Image Racing Your Online Source for Aftermarket High Performance Car Parts and Accessories for Subaru WRX and STI, Nissan, Mazda, Misubishi Evolution and others. with forged pistons, running roughly 2800. Maybe top speeds ss1? And also their head work for around 400. Plus maybe some springs.

    Also, Iím not planning on doing cams in this swap. Would I still need STI or equivalent injectors and a 255 pump?
    Or can I use the stock ones and still get decent AFR? With a mild, still close to stage 2 tune. .
    Then when I want to up boost, maybe upgrade fuel. I do have money to do both though I believe
    Any! Advice would be appreciated.

    Stats
    1. (ALK) anti lift kit by Whiteline for launching and stopping
    2. Whiteline front and rear sway bars with end links
    3. Whiteline camber plates
    4. Prodrive axle back
    5. Up pipe
    6. Down pipe
    7. Cusco heat shield (turbo)
    8. Exhaust is heat wrapped
    9. Spt intake also wrapped
    10. Turbo also heat wrapped
    11. Samco intercooler y pipes
    12. STI intercooler
    13. Samco radiator hoses
    14. STI BBS wheels
    15. Cobb crank pulley
    16. Sub frame stiffens up uni-body









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  3. #2
    Registered User c2bcoolwrx's Avatar
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    If your going w/a 2.5L block you are going to need larger injectors (at least 565ccs). So, might as well get some DW 650ccs at least. I would also recommend a new Sti oil pump, Sti oil pan w/baffle & pickup tube/dipstick. It very difficult to get all the shavings out of the current oil pan. ARP head studs, a new timing belt and waterpump would be a good idea as well.

    Check out my hybrid build thread, partculary post #18 as I broke down all the costs and parts:

    Hybrid Build - Done!!!

    Also, it is much easier to do things now while the engine is out. So, I wouldn't rule out cams and other upgrades if the budget allows. Lastly, 30mpg is going to be tough even if you drive like a grandma. 25mpg is doable though.
    Last edited by c2bcoolwrx; 04-12-2011 at 10:27 PM.

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    Registered User twistymaster's Avatar
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    Just trying to shave off some of the price off the top , so I can get a forged engine " you understand"
    So, upping the injectors, Would i need a new pump too ?
    Where is the best place and cheapest place to get those injectors? Trying to get something cheaper than sti pinks ' if not better and cheaper at the same time ey ?
    What is the difference between sti pan and my pan?
    Higher flow and volume ?
    better baffle ?

  5. #4
    Registered User c2bcoolwrx's Avatar
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    Sti pan has better oiling capabilities, better baffle, and a little more capacity. Deatchwerks (DW) will give you around $100 back for your current injectors. A Walbro 255 is about $90 and wil be necessary for the higher flow.

    As for the best/cheapest place...you are going to have to shop around, but most places will price match. I have dealt with Josh of Import Image and he is a good guy. Also, I like the fact that he is less than 2 hours from me so if there was ever a problem I am close enough to punch him in the face (just kidding).

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    Registered User twistymaster's Avatar
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    Epic man, Thanks, been reading your posts for a while, Glad i have your attention for a little while. Found some Dw's 650 cc on Craigs list for 250 brand new, should i go for them .. Linked the pic of the box, RIGHT ONES ?





    Been waiting on getting my inspection on the car tomorrow. Required to pay taxes on a shell, instead of a complete car. "saves me cash (-:

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    Registered User c2bcoolwrx's Avatar
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    You could get them directly from DW for $260 and they will send you paid shipping labels to trade the stockers in. I just don't trust some dude on eBay or Craigs list.

    However, before you purchase anything I would do some more research. Search "hybrid build" here and on NASIOC. Read, learn, ask questions, read some more. Hybrid builds do work, but you have to have the right clearances, compression, and a quality tune. So building one yourself should not be entered into lightly.
    Last edited by c2bcoolwrx; 04-12-2011 at 10:59 PM.

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    Registered User twistymaster's Avatar
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    I understand, the. Clearances and compression. I am probably going through import image for about everything. And will ask what to do with the heads, because he offers a head service, and I’m sure they will suggest a gasket to use. Then in short just Bolt the thing together right? NO need in complicating, mechanic work. We aren’t the designers and there are plenty of 3rd grade dropouts with a monkey wrench building race cars. Building and disassembling is easy. Just asking if I can get advice toward my goals. Have a bulletproof engine for daily driving “within reason to keeping in rpm range and not driving like a ricer”. With a conservative daily driving tune, with the potential for upgrades. Not planning on blowing this engine XD. . I’ve had plenty of experience with building other types of engines, Trust me. But my new found love, My WRX. . Is like a Ferrari compared to my other rides

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    Registered User twistymaster's Avatar
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    also as far as tuning, I will be towing the car to my local MZM international, The local wrx Guru's "so to speak" ... Very Expensive. For now, Ill probably get a static tune on the stock ECU. . .

    Or budget for a quick piggyback after I tally up all the prices. " Doing that right now. Ill post what i have so far and est. prices on all. .

    NO go on the CL injectors I guess.

    I have the cash in the bank, and after i get subaru's inspection tomorrow, Ill start the teardown,
    And opon inspecting the heads, Will determin how far in over my "head" i am, I just hope the heads are in good shape XD. . .
    Ill plan to start ordering parts in a day or so hopefully.

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    Registered User c2bcoolwrx's Avatar
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    Sounds like you got a pretty good understanding of things. As for the tune...a piggyback is not needed. Get a opensource tune. A tuner worth a **** will have a laptop and tractrix cable to do the tune. Basically, he will flash the stock ECU w/a custom tune.

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    Registered User twistymaster's Avatar
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    One thing for sure, In my garage I have all the time in the world to make sure my engine is put together "to spec".
    Then towed to MZM to get tuned.

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    Registered User twistymaster's Avatar
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    ok, what are the shims for ?

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    Registered User twistymaster's Avatar
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    DO the oil pans come with the baffle, or would i have to order one custom? Also do both blocks use the same bolts and locations for the tray?

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    Registered User twistymaster's Avatar
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    it looks like killer B has one for 69.00 . WOuld that be worth looking into, or is the stock sti one better ?

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    Registered User c2bcoolwrx's Avatar
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    Baffle is a separate part#. You should get the Sti/2.5 dipstick tube/dipstick as well so your readings are correct. Sti pan, killer B baffle, and killer B oil pickup. I have all the previous minus the killer B baffle, got the stock Sti baffle.

    Shims are for the valves, you will need to order new ones.

    Bolts should be the same, but I can't remember for sure. I had a very experienced builder build my block, I just watched/helped when I could.

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    Registered User twistymaster's Avatar
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    I guess when i put the heads back together, or pay them to re, shim. OR shim mine when i attatch them to the block.. . I will be back on here asking you questions. I take it you know the process for shimming? I have shimmed a ducati 1098s motorcycle before, and an LSD in a ITR tranny. But as far as subaru heads, Not yet. Im sure I will know more in two days, When I decide to order the parts. I am however pulling the motor tomorrow after the title transfer. Ye-yaw, been waiting for another project for quite some time. Hope I can find a scooby book tomorrow and soak all the info in before pulling. Or mabe just wing it " winging it is always fun. OH "f_ck, where the hell are the water pumps !!.. LOL
    I will post up when i get the engine out and inspect the heads and so forth. ANYHOW , wish me luck. Want to make an engine I can easaly build on over time, Even though my horse power goals are alot lower then the TAP ABLE 500 from the Top speed engine that I have chosen. "also, I dont wanna go and blow my little scooby tranny that already has 133k miles on it, Ey? at this point , I have no Idea what that thing can handle, and Im not too ready to find out. "in al honesty ive driven a stock 02 scooby when they came out, And the stage 1 tune was just fine for my style, even though my stroker corvette at the time , Blew its doors off. . The scooby to me, IS more car then my vette, **** more car then my 69 mach 1
    Last edited by twistymaster; 04-13-2011 at 09:58 PM.

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