??future mods??
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This is a discussion on ??future mods?? within the Engine Modifications forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; i have an '03 wrx and need sum opinions cuz im fairly new to the subie scene . these are ...

  1. #1
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    Question ??future mods??

    i have an '03 wrx and need sum opinions cuz im fairly new to the subie scene. these are the mods i wanna get done by the end of june 2010 and get it tuned to 310 awhp with the cobb accessport:

    Hks hi-power catback exhaust
    hks downpipe
    agency power up pipe and headers
    vf39 turbo (sti)
    sti intercooler
    sti injectors
    walbro fuel pump
    and hks bov

    is this a good idea? y and y not? thnks a bunch

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    Good news, everyone! xxxxxxxAnub1s's Avatar
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    You have the right mods there, but if you're doing any kind of turbo upgrade, you should be getting a protune. Any upgrade can be made better by a protune, but a turbo upgrade especially should get one.
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    Don't bother with the BOV. You will gain no power and could possibly damage something.

    Headers for your mod list are a waste of money. The gains will be minimal if at all. Port and polish the manifolds if anything. You may bet a bit faster spool by doing this. You might pick up 5-7HP, but honestly you could just run another lb. of boost, tune the wastegate duty cycle and see the same result.

    If you get the STi intercooler cheap, like a takeoff, then it's worth it. If you have to pay list price get a TXS or other aftermarket. They are significantly bigger.

    I'm rather partial to TXS exhaust parts, as I know the quality and fitment is excellent. I have not heard anything about HKS good or bad, but beware particularly with uppipes. I've heard horror stories about bad fit from some vendors other than TXS.

    A dyno tune is a good idea, as stated. It might cost you $450 or so, but it's well worth it to ensure that everything is working optimally. Once you switch turbos you really need to do that. The stock Cobb tunes are very safe, but leave power on the table in doing so.

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    1. Agency Power, avoid anything from them. They are Vivid Racing's house brand and the folks at Vivid are well know scammers.

    2. HKS downpipe is a piece of crap.

    3. You will not see 310 whp from a VF39 unless you're on a high reading dyno.

    4. You don't need the HKS SSQV.

    5. Add a stronger clutch and an intake to your list.
    Last edited by brfatal; 02-26-2010 at 10:34 PM.

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    ^^What he said

    Don't buy Agency Power (Grimmspeed PnP'd manifold is a good cheap alternative). 310whp is a little high for a vf39. Although you could add a meth kit or EWG and that would bring you closer to your goal. You don't need the BOV. And an aftermarket intercooler would be better, but the STi is sufficient.


    Lastly, skip the AP and go with an opensource protune.



    It would be a good idea to get an aftermarket clutch (I'm partial to ACT) because your clutch won't last too long with that power. And with a stiffer clutch you should probably upgrade your gears, as they are a weak point. I got the STi 5mt gearset and the base of the teeth on the gears are almost twice as thick as the OEM ones.

    I know transmission upgrades aren't cheap, but it's nice to know that you can launch the car without shearing the teeth right off (like so many do).



    AND, if you're going to go faster, it's not a bad idea to be able to stop faster too. I feel that brake upgrades and suspension upgrades are nearly a must once you're looking at over 300whp.
    Last edited by MainFrame; 02-26-2010 at 10:17 PM.

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    Good call on the clutch. I have an ACT as well, and love it. It has better feel than stock and has held up well thus far.

    The tranny is definitely the weak link in the drivetrain. If you really want to use the car to its potential it isn't a bad idea to consider stronger gears for the 5MT, or even a swap to the STi 6MT.

    The brakes are definitely not up to par o the WRX. Truly the car's two weak links stock are the brakes and the tranny. I upgraded my brakes with stainless steel lines, DBA rotors front and rear, with accompanying pads. I'm also running H6 Outback rear rotors using the factory Subaru caliper extension brackets. The brakes are much better than stock, and the cash outlay wasn't that bad. If you do step up to the STi trans though I would recommend using the STi axles and hubs, at which point you can just use the STi brakes.

    Suspension wise I'm still pretty happy with my setup. I have installed STi Group N motor/tranny mounts, Kartboy trans x-member bushings, Kartboy rear subframe locks, Kartboy rear diff mount bushings, and the TiC outrigger stiffening kit. That did a lot to firm things up with minimal cash outlay. Right now I'm considering better sway bars, as body roll is really my only concern now.

    The important point is to balance the mods. You don't want a car that is all go and no woah, or one that doesn't want to corner. Going faster is fun, but it needs to be done safely. Otherwise you end up with the modern equivalent of a '69 Road Runner, which I believe is the most crashed car in history. Man was it fast with the right engine, but everything else was terrible.

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    I personally feEl a header is a great power mode for these cars,especially ones with a turbo upgrade. But the $$$ to HP ratio is hard to swallow. Try to find one used,I would recommend an equal length one,and a known company/design. Even on my stock TD04 my GP Moto EL had stock like spool up or better (when wrapped) but the midrange bump was easily 10-15 hp with slightly more torque. Peak gains were slightly less than the midrange bump but more than stock. Header design is everything especially on these cars where the turbo is so far away from the heads. Especially the driver side.
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    i have a brand new exedy clutch installed,spt intake (dont know if it was a smart move) and slotted and drilled brake rotors (getting new brakes soon). so no bov and ap headers.also,im on a tight budget so im gonna have to stick with the vf39 turbo for a while until i can afford something better.about how much is it gonna b able to put out with a tune and the other mods im planning?

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    Quote Originally Posted by MainFrame View Post
    Don't buy Agency Power (Grimmspeed PnP'd manifold is a good cheap alternative)

    Porting headers is done for different reasons than an aftermarket header. The former is done to decrease spool time and the latter for power.

    Slotted and drilled rotors are not upgrades. If you were to push those brakes at a track event there is a likelihood they'd crack. In the future, skip the drilling.
    Last edited by brfatal; 02-27-2010 at 09:54 AM.

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    OMG WTF MainFrame's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ukranianization View Post
    i have a brand new exedy clutch installed,spt intake (dont know if it was a smart move) and slotted and drilled brake rotors (getting new brakes soon). so no bov and ap headers.also,im on a tight budget so im gonna have to stick with the vf39 turbo for a while until i can afford something better.about how much is it gonna b able to put out with a tune and the other mods im planning?

    How much were you looking to pay for the vf39? A hta68 can be had brand new for $850, and you could probably find a slightly used one for around $550. That turbo would easily put you at the 320whp mark without significantly increasing spool time over the vf39.


    Off the top of my head, you're looking at:

    TBE - ~$600
    TMIC - ~$230
    Injectors - maybe $150-$200
    Fuel Pump - ~$85

    You could skip the headers and get a hta68 for $850.


    Protune, depends.. maybe $400-$500



    So you're looking at $2400, plus or minus $200. If you really needed to I bet you could pull it in just under $2000.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MainFrame View Post
    TBE - ~$600
    TMIC - ~$450 used
    Injectors - maybe $250-400
    Fuel Pump - ~$85
    fixt

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    Quote Originally Posted by ukranianization View Post
    im on a tight budget so im gonna have to stick with the vf39 turbo for a while until i can afford something better.about how much is it gonna b able to put out with a tune and the other mods im planning?
    why dont you just stick with your current set up until you can afford the turbo you want?

    it's going to cost you more money to swap 2 turbos & get tuned each time then it would to just swap it right the first time with what you want.

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    Quote Originally Posted by brfatal View Post
    fixt

    I was looking at this TMIC, new.

    Import Image Racing: ESS Top Mount Intercoolers for 02-07 WRX/STi

    Not sure if it's any good, but it's cheap.


    Are STi injectors really going to cost him that much? When I was looking into a 20g upgrade I saw lots of listings for used 750cc Deatschwerks injectors for $250 on nasioc. The 650cc injectors are $365 new.

    Import Image Racing: Deatschwerks 650cc injectors for 02-08 WRX/STI

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    ESS = BSS = CSS = $94 eBay intercooler

    Yes, there are 3 brands with those names that all use the same cores and hardware.

    He will want 750s if he wants to run an HTA68.

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    That intercooler looks decent for the price.

    I disagree that slotted and/or drilled rotors are not an upgrade. I would caution against drilled rotors on the street, or a full weight car. Slotted rotors will help keep the gasses created during braking from causing the pads to float. This improves pad bite and reduces stopping distance. Aftermarket rotors, particularly the DBAs, have better cooling vanes to prevent warping. I can personally verify that the DBAs do not warp, and fade & distance is reduced when using them and accompanying pads.

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