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This is a discussion on Car audio Poll. within the Electronics/Car Audio forums, part of the Interior Mods category; How'd you get those to fit?? I was considering that exact same speaker, but didn't find it possible to move ...

  1. #16
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    How'd you get those to fit?? I was considering that exact same speaker, but didn't find it possible to move the window back enough without having to modify the door. I'm trying to avoid custom panels. Pic's please.
    Those fools, EVO vs. STi??? That's like comparing ....wait a minute...there's no comparison. The Suby's still working!!! The evo...well... I hope he got the extended warranty.

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  3. #17
    Registered User 4 Banger's Avatar
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    Originally posted by ej20fan
    How'd you get those to fit?? I was considering that exact same speaker, but didn't find it possible to move the window back enough without having to modify the door. I'm trying to avoid custom panels. Pic's please.
    Not sure who your asking, but I'll tell you what I did.

    https://w109.webminders.com/iaperfor...ctionNumber=59

    I'll swear by those adapters , if it wasn't for them I wouldn't have been able to install the speakers by myself. I bought the "Thick kit" (E-mail, IA if you're not sure which ones to get), it came with all the nuts, screws, and fasteners to painlessly install the focals and the Quarts. The Quarts only needed the adapters, and fit perfectly. The Focals on the other hand required a little more work.

    The Focals required the adaptors, but I also had to place a few washers (supplied with the kit) around the bolt that holds the window to the door panel. I also trimmed some of the honeycomb plastic mesh on the back of the door panel, with a razor so the speaker could fit a little easier. I had to make custom bracket to fit the crossovers within the door, but other than that it was pretty easy. No dremeling or metal cutting/trimming was required. If you want I'll post pics tommorrow. Hope this helps.
    Last edited by 4 Banger; 09-09-2004 at 08:02 PM.
    04' STi (Silver/Silver)
    My Car

  4. #18
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    Thanks. I thought the rubber surround and possibly the cone would rub against the door panel, as the excursion on that speaker is pretty high. That mid from Focal can move some serious air, and therefore moves the cone a considerable amount. I hope you'll never prove me right, as I'm dying to swap out what I have. I actually ditched my bolt and made a new bracket for my window. I'll post pics when I get it back from the bodyshop. I've got my fingers crossed. Here's a hint, when you do get those playing, the tweeter may prove a little too intrusive/bright. A 10ohm 10watt resistor from radio shack will smoothen it out for you, giving it a warmer feel/sound. I usually ditch the cross-over and build my own from mylar caps and resistors. I'll keep my opinion on x-overs to myself as I don't want to incite a debate on the quality, or lack thereof.
    Those fools, EVO vs. STi??? That's like comparing ....wait a minute...there's no comparison. The Suby's still working!!! The evo...well... I hope he got the extended warranty.

  5. #19
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    Yeah, I'm a little worried about them rubbing. Hopefully I'll get that damn amp back and update you on what happens.

    And just about everyone has told the same thing about the tweets. I already have the Xover set at it's lowest setting.

    You make your own Xovers!?!? That's sweet!! I bet that gives you alot of control over sound quality. Right now, I can't comment on the Focal Xovers as I really havn't had a chance to listen to them, but I lack the technical know-how and the time to make a pair of my own, so I'll just settle for what I have.
    04' STi (Silver/Silver)
    My Car

  6. #20
    Registered User capt'n'caveman's Avatar
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    clarion vrx650
    clarion vs735

    soundstream rubicon 600

    cdt 6.1 seperates
    cdt 5.25 coax

    only complaint so far, low pre-outs on the clarion...luv the amp and speakers
    k&n, sti-hoodscoop, engine mounts, & tranny mount, blitz dtt, catless up-pipe, samco ic hose, greddy CC, cusco f/r swaybars, gutted midpipe, oil cooler, prodrive exhaust & f/r replica sti strut tower bar, gunmetal rota tarmac, goodridge ss lines, p'n'p exhaust manifold

    deny the fly-by

  7. #21
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    I've got an Alpine 9813 head unit

    I'm looking at getting Boston Pro components up front an a JL10w6v2 for the back.
    13.2 @105 with the old auto. Now rockin a 4.44 standard tranny.

  8. #22
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    i've got a sony touch screen deck (I know everyoen says sony sucks, but i love this deck). I've set the deck to blue, it goes perfectly with my gauges, pedals, and soon-to-be blue clock and A/C etc lights...
    Neways...i'm about to set up an Infinity Kappa Perfect 12D VQ with a MTX Audio Thunder 421D.
    I chose the sub because it is jsut purely amazing. I've got a custom enclosure with it. The sub has a 92 dB rating at 400 RMS @ 2 ohms! it's going to be insane once i get it in. Plus, it's class D so i can use a class D amp which is better for subs
    I chose the amp because it is very good, and inexpensive...heh...16 yr old on a tight budget here
    '03 Aspen white rex

    -Infinity Kappa Perfect 12D VQ running on a MTX audio 420D.
    -Kicker SS components (6.5") running on a hifonics saturn a4000
    -60 sq. ft of edead v1.2se

  9. #23
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    Nice. But here's a small Lesson on Amp Classification. I'm not trying to single you out, but I've noticed that many don't know what different class amps are, and why they are in different classes.

    Class D does not mean that it's better for subs, shame on whoever lied to you. It is a class designation. Unlike Class A (McIntosh, Zapco Comp, Helix Brax) or Class A/B ( JL, Rockford, and pretty much every other amp below the 2k price range), a class D can only play low pass. Meaning ferquencies that are usually below 500Hz. They tend to be mono amps(1channel, but there are exceptions), stable at very low impedances(usually 1 Ohm and lower), and extremely small.

    Downsides are that they tend to be expensive, not sound as good as power is given priority over SQ, and need to be run at low impedances in order to perform( 2 Ohm or lower). They are, unfortunately, not able to perform at their full potential for very long, as they are extremely inefficient, and generate a tremendous amount of heat. Regardless, they are the amps of choice for any SPL competitor or Demo vehicle.

    I hope it'll sound great. Let me see some pics when it's done.
    Those fools, EVO vs. STi??? That's like comparing ....wait a minute...there's no comparison. The Suby's still working!!! The evo...well... I hope he got the extended warranty.

  10. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by ej20fan
    Nice. But here's a small Lesson on Amp Classification. I'm not trying to single you out, but I've noticed that many don't know what different class amps are, and why they are in different classes.

    Class D does not mean that it's better for subs, shame on whoever lied to you. It is a class designation. Unlike Class A (McIntosh, Zapco Comp, Helix Brax) or Class A/B ( JL, Rockford, and pretty much every other amp below the 2k price range), a class D can only play low pass. Meaning ferquencies that are usually below 500Hz. They tend to be mono amps(1channel, but there are exceptions), stable at very low impedances(usually 1 Ohm and lower), and extremely small.

    Downsides are that they tend to be expensive, not sound as good as power is given priority over SQ, and need to be run at low impedances in order to perform( 2 Ohm or lower). They are, unfortunately, not able to perform at their full potential for very long, as they are extremely inefficient, and generate a tremendous amount of heat. Regardless, they are the amps of choice for any SPL competitor or Demo vehicle.

    I hope it'll sound great. Let me see some pics when it's done.


    oooh. Ok thanks, yeah i just read on some forum that class D was better for subs. Never knew about all that.
    What do you mean by saying thta they can not perform for very long? I still have not purchased my amp, but the auction ends in 12 hours. Any better suggestions for under 170(including shipping) for a 400+ rms amp @ 2 ohm for my sub?
    I believe my sub is also 4 ohm stable, so maybe i culd use a 4 ohm amp?
    Thanks
    '03 Aspen white rex

    -Infinity Kappa Perfect 12D VQ running on a MTX audio 420D.
    -Kicker SS components (6.5") running on a hifonics saturn a4000
    -60 sq. ft of edead v1.2se

  11. #25
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    The impedance, Ohm load, is not determined by the amp, but by whatever is connected to it. Since you're only running a single woofer in a 2 Ohm load, you'e stuck and will have to use a mono, or class D amp. Most A/B amps are not stable at 2 Ohms when they are bridged. For a Class A./B amp to really work, you need to runa 4 Ohm final load and bridge two channels. This is only for Sub applications. In regards to 4 channel and interior speakers, the rules are a little different.

    It boils down to what type of Sub you're using. If it's a single voice coil, you simply need to pick up a 4 Ohm woofer. If you're getting a Dual Voice Coil or DVC, you need to pick out either a dual 2 Ohm or a Dual 8 Ohm woffer. Both can be run to create final 4 Ohm load. This way, you can use a class A/B 2 channel amp, bridge it, and produce the power you need, along with sound fidelity you're looking for.

    In regards to amps shutting off, Class D amps, as aforementioned, need to run at very low impedances in order to produce some serious power. There are exceptions to this, amps with regulated powersupply and other features, but none that are within your budget when new. When running at low impedances, the current flow has little obstruction, and a great amount of DC current is converted to AC current ,at a very fast rate. Since amps are all inefficient, a byproduct is heat. The more power you make, the hotter it gets ( again there are exceptions to this rule) with Class D amps. If run at 1 Ohm, their peak operating load, they will only do so for no more than 20-30 min if not less before a thermal protection shut-down. The amp does this to protect itself from overheating and self-destructing.
    Class A/B do not get this hot, as their peak performance is at a 4 Ohm load, in a bridged mode, meaning that they will play all day.

    To add insult to injury, Class D amps are notorious for passing DC current to the speaker. Meaning that at times, if the amp is under heavy loads, This happens because the flow of current is so great and rapid that sSome DC will not be converted to AC ad go directly to your speakers. This is not a problem for most High-performance SPL woofers, as you can actually test them using a wall socket, but the majority of subs will cook their voice-coils and no longer operate if this happens.

    Class D amps are great powerhouses, for huge systems. They are very good amps, and I could not say that class D was better than class A/B or vice versa. They are simply designed for different applications. Think Spool up characteristics between turbos, and top end power. One is not better than the other, they're simply designed for different purposes.

    Hope this helps.
    Those fools, EVO vs. STi??? That's like comparing ....wait a minute...there's no comparison. The Suby's still working!!! The evo...well... I hope he got the extended warranty.

  12. #26
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    OK so i'm getting an infinity kappa perfect 12D VQ. It's max wattage is 1600, 400 rms@2 ohms...do you think that i could use a 420 RMS class D amplifier for this sub?
    '03 Aspen white rex

    -Infinity Kappa Perfect 12D VQ running on a MTX audio 420D.
    -Kicker SS components (6.5") running on a hifonics saturn a4000
    -60 sq. ft of edead v1.2se

  13. #27
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    Again, the impedance of the woofer is the key factor. Not its power rating. I see that it's a DVC, so what impedance are the Voice coils?? Dual 2, 4, 6, or 8 Ohm?? That's the determining factor between Class D and Class A/B.
    Those fools, EVO vs. STi??? That's like comparing ....wait a minute...there's no comparison. The Suby's still working!!! The evo...well... I hope he got the extended warranty.

  14. #28
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    All right, I'm making the switch. Cut a deal with MB Quart. I'm trying out the RAA4200, and one RAA2400, along with PCE 216's (IMO the best speaker for your $$) and the audiocontrol DQS. I'll let you guys know how it sounds.

    Up for grabs, if anyone is interested, Kove Components and the P5002, PAR 245 Eq. PM me if you're interested.

    But back to the issue at hand, what else have you guys got??? Pic's, reviews, critiques, let me see what's out there.
    Those fools, EVO vs. STi??? That's like comparing ....wait a minute...there's no comparison. The Suby's still working!!! The evo...well... I hope he got the extended warranty.

  15. #29
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    PCE 216s?!? how do u get a 6.5" speaker into the tiny @$$ 5.25" wrx speaker space?
    '03 Aspen white rex

    -Infinity Kappa Perfect 12D VQ running on a MTX audio 420D.
    -Kicker SS components (6.5") running on a hifonics saturn a4000
    -60 sq. ft of edead v1.2se

  16. #30
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    "How to fit that big thing in that small hole" is a nightly dilemma.....

    The OEM size for front speakers is actually a 6.5". Most shops sell 5.25" as they are easier to install due to them being shallower. No worries, We've already figured out how to get most 6.5" to fit. I posted a MB Quart thread that explained how to go about installing not so shallow speakers in a very shallow location. I'll PM or post the thread later, as it needs editing anyways.

    But back to the issue at hand. Tell me about your Sound systems.. and adding....your Alarms...
    Those fools, EVO vs. STi??? That's like comparing ....wait a minute...there's no comparison. The Suby's still working!!! The evo...well... I hope he got the extended warranty.

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