You must tweak the factory sub!
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This is a discussion on You must tweak the factory sub! within the Electronics/Car Audio forums, part of the Interior Mods category; Hey, I read earlier that the factory sub sounds much better if you adjust it. Well, I did and is ...

  1. #1
    Registered User SpideyRex's Avatar
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    You must tweak the factory sub!

    Hey, I read earlier that the factory sub sounds much better if you adjust it. Well, I did and is is a big difference. I can't tell you exactly what I did, but I monkeyed with the adjustments (gain and high cut?) as I listened to some tunes until I liked it.

    It is less boomy with good response to music with electric bass lines, etc. It still has a hard time with low low bass on hip hop but there is less distortion now. Not bad for a tiny sub under the seat.

    Getting after market is better, but for a stock system, it is good and meets my needs.

    Plus it was fun "modding" something else on the car.
    With great power comes great responsibility...

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  3. #2
    Registered User vtjim's Avatar
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    There are adjustments on it? Where? I've never really looked.

  4. #3
    Registered User SERacing's Avatar
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    If I remember correctly there are instructions on scoobymods.com on how to open up the sub enclosure and adjust stuff.
    SIRacing.Net

    Originally posted by yermom
    heh, fairlady

    does not sound like a fast car, no wonder they changed the name for the US market

  5. #4
    Registered User vtjim's Avatar
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    Okay.

  6. #5
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    The screws to adjust the sub are facing the center console. They are kind of a pain to get to I just used a really small screwdriver and a flaslight. Sounds SO much better.

  7. #6
    Registered User burgerboy's Avatar
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    Did you have to remove the subwoofer to make the adjustments?

  8. #7
    Registered User barosborough's Avatar
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    I don't think you have to remove the sub to make adjustments but I think it's worth it for two reasons.

    1. At least in my car a good portion of the rattles came from the arm connector for the sub. This is the metal piece that attaches the sub to the passenger seat. In mine this was a metal to metal contact point. I loosened the back bolt on the seat and pulled the arm out. Then pulled the sub off the carpet (it's suck there with double sided tape). Then I unscrewed the arm from the sub and removed the double sided tape. Then I just put some velcro on the bottom of the sub. Sticks to the carpet like glue and no rattles. I have never had it move an inch.

    2. Now that I have removed the arm It's really easy to make adjustments whenever I want.

    Hope this helps.
    2002 Aspen White:

    AVO Turbo-back, AVO TMIC, AVO BOV, AVO Short RAM Intake, AVO 15lb Wastegate Actuator, 225/45/17 Toyo Proxes 4 tires on 17x7 ADR wheels, SPO Front and Rear Sway bars, H&R Springs, STI Hoodscoop, STI Grill

    1983 Toyota Landcruiser FJ60 121,000 original miles

  9. #8
    Registered User NJwrbT-WRX's Avatar
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    I adjusted mine a long time ago. Frankly, I don't even rememeber what I did, but is sounded better after I did it.

    -joe
    '02 WRB Sedan

    Removed silencer w/ Akimoto Velocity Stack, Blitz Dual TT, Autospeed Prototype Up-pipe w/ Flex-joint, Autospeed Crank Pulley, Autospeed OEM Dead Pedal, Samco IC Hoses, Axxis Pads, Goodridge Lines, Neo Synth Brake Fluid, Speedbleeders, Eibach Pro-Kit, Perrin Endlinks and Rear Sway, 17" Sub Zeros w/ 225/45 ES100s, Crucial Racing Thermostat and 1.4bar Radiator Cap, Autometer Sport-Comp Oil Pressure, EGT, and Voltmeter on the A-Pillar, STI Hoodscoop.

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