Zapix's WRX : Stereo and HVAC Blue LED bulbs! - Page 2
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This is a discussion on Zapix's WRX : Stereo and HVAC Blue LED bulbs! within the Electronics/Car Audio forums, part of the Interior Mods category; All parts can be obtained at Radio Shack. (7) Blue LED's #276-316 (2) 330 ohm 5-pack resistors #271-1315 (1) spool ...

  1. #16
    Registered User Zapix's Avatar
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    All parts can be obtained at Radio Shack.

    (7) Blue LED's #276-316
    (2) 330 ohm 5-pack resistors #271-1315
    (1) spool solder wick (braid) #64-2090
    (1) spool solder #64-013
    (1) roll electrical tape #64-2374
    (1) Phillips head screwdriver
    (1) Flat blade screwdriver
    (1) Channel lock pliers
    Download the zipfile below, which is the tutorial that Captain Morgan wrote up. Here are the following things that need to be cleared up though...

    You need 9 LED bulbs (NOT 7 AS STATED ABOVE!) if you wish to do the HVAC and stereo. It's 7 bulbs for the stereo, 2 for the HVAC.

    The pliers are not needed either, but may help. You will also need a razor blade, or exacto knife. You know the sort that comes with your average toolkit.

    Anyway, I think his directions are pretty clear for the most part up though step 28... Once you hit step #29, he's not real clear IMO.

    So use the tutorial for up till that point. If you have any questions though, feel free to ask.

    Now here's where things get scary! Flip the board to the green side, where you do the soldering and all that fun stuff.

    The positive connection on the circuit board needs to be literally cut! This is where you need the exacto-knife or razor. I'll add a second post with a picture I just did with PAINT to give you an idea of that. Find a nice spot to cut into the board which isn't super close to anything else you might cut. Now as the tutorial says, scrape away until the metal connection is gone.

    Now, those those little black things all over the board are the SMT resistors. Solder one end to the positive line of the LED, and the older solder directly next to the SMT resistor which should already have a tiny bit of solder in that spot. The power will now transfer from the SMT resistor, to the 330ohm resistor, into the LED, safely going within the power limits. Sounds crazy, but it's to cut the original power voltage from reaching the LED and killing it's life span from immortal to quick death.


    Now only the HVAC is left. I'll draw up another PAINT picture to give you an idea how to safely set those up.


    OH, btw, for those of you who don't know (and I didn't when I started this project) the positive end of the LED is the longer end.

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  3. #17
    Registered User Zapix's Avatar
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    tutorial
    Attached Files
    PS3/360 ID: Zapix

    MIA Western Mass Impreza Club / MIA Connecticut Impreza Club

    My 2002 WRB WRX

    2003 Northeast Subaru Impreza Club Regional Meet

  4. #18
    Registered User Zapix's Avatar
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    blue arrow should give you an idea of where to cut.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails cutline.jpg  

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    Registered User Zapix's Avatar
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    here's the PAINT pic I did that should describe how to do the HVAC bulbs. Didn't really see any way to solder these in, but the bends in the connections and the electric tape will keep it tightly in place.

    Also note to be sure that when putting the bulbs back in that the positive end is on top as seen in the picture when it's installed again. So you need to place the positive end in on the right, and when you twist counter clockwise to secure it, it will be in the top position. Not that difficult.


    For the most part, that should clear up anything I found wrong with the tutorial.

    Any other questions?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails hvac.jpg  

  6. #20
    Registered User WRXin''s Avatar
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    Zapix -- all those instructions didn't include any info on the gauge cluster. Did I miss something, or are they not on there? Why are you holding out?
    Fahd

    Floats like a butterfly and stings like when I pee!

  7. #21
    Registered User Zapix's Avatar
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    *points to signature*

    reverse indiglo guages!

    that's why I have blue letters/numbers in the gauges.

    Not sure what the number of bulbs is for the gauge pod... It is the same process as I understand though. Just need to know the bulb count.

    To get into the guage pod is easy though.
    Unscrew the 2 screws pointing up in the bezel, 3 screws holding the gauge pod into the car. Undo 2 or 3 large plugs on the back of the gauge pod. Take it inside.
    Undo a few clips, and maybe a screw here and there and you're in.

    Again though. Not sure on the bulb count.
    I would guess about 6 to 8 though, as there is a lot of area there to light up.

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    THANKS ZAPIX!

    I appreciate the diagram. On a side note, my spouse may have just made my job a helluva a lot easier. She saw me looking over the tutorial again this morning along with your pics, and I had windows open on reverse indiglo gauges and my wife was like "hey, if you get one of those new stereos you were looking at everything'll be blue. Good thing I did the bills, eh?"

    Turns out, I'vew got some "mad money" this month, as opposed to having to wait until the post Xmas sales!

    New stereo + some (blue) reverse indiglos and all I'd have left to do is the 2 leds in the HVAC, woohoo! I knew that clean living would pay off.

    BTW, is it possible to get gauge overlays such that the faces are always black and the lettering blue? I did a search, but could only find reverse indiglos that are black face-blue at night and white by daylight....

    Ooops, sorry, didn't mean to hijack. I'll post up in a seperate thread.

    Anyway, thanks again, Zapix. I applaud your courage.

  9. #23
    Registered User Zapix's Avatar
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    http://www.speedhut.com/Default.asp?bhcp=1

    They can make whatever you want. If you want big dragons and chinese symbols all over your gauges, go for it! If you want black face with blue letters, go for it!

    Still leavs the odometer, but I'm guessing that is only one or two LEDs at most. Only reason I really haven't gone after it yet is because I want to replace the needles from yellow to red, or blue (probably will go with red though) and that's a PITA project from what I've read. So, I'm not going to bother with making the effort of changing one tiny thing until I'm ready to tackle the bigger task included.
    Last edited by Zapix; 10-02-2003 at 10:30 AM.

  10. #24
    Registered User 04blkWRX's Avatar
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    The odometer is only one bulb but LEDs are not very good for that purpose. They have that narrow cone of light so you'll get a bright spot in the middle of the display. I tried swapping LED's with the whole gauge cluster but since they don't project light sideways the needles weren't illuminated...rather useless at night!

    I'm looking forward to the day someone releases reverse indiglo for the '04

  11. #25
    Registered User WRXin''s Avatar
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    I was wondering how the blue looked so smooth. I guess I'll have to get reverse indiglos then...don't want any bright spots. I just wanted the background to be black to match my Blitz BLM gauges. I'll see what Speed Hut can do for me. Thanks for all the info
    Fahd

    Floats like a butterfly and stings like when I pee!

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    With only 2 LEDs lighting the HVAC, doesn't that make the HVAC just a couple of blue bright spots and the rest of it is dark?

    Zapix, the lighting looks pretty even in your picture....that's just from 2 blue leds, no extra reflectors or anything?
    Last edited by Joe_Newbie; 10-03-2003 at 12:25 PM.

  13. #27
    Registered User Zapix's Avatar
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    WRXin' you could use LEDs in the gauge pod, and it will look as good as the stereo setup. I've personally never seen it done, but I've seen pictures and it looks good. I just happen to be fond of the indiglo gauges at daytime with the white face.

    Yep, that's correct about it just being 2 LED bulbs. The lighting is completely even. I'm gonna try and capture some better pictures sometime. No reflectors or anything. The lighting is equally as bright if not slightly brighter than stock IMO.

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    Zapix....Sorry to keep dragging you back in, but feeling stupid....

    I was trying my hand at the HVAC and wanted to make sure... in your little picture with the LED and the electrical tape --- htere's a resistor under the tape, right. Meaning, you didn't solder a resistor into place, you just wrapped'em into place w/the electrical tape, right? (So the picture is showing the LED+resistor taped in place -- or did you find LEDs that didn't need the resistor)

    Sorry for the brain disfunction --- it's the middle of the night and I'm a little tired...

  15. #29
    Registered User Zapix's Avatar
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    No, do solder the resistor in place, but use as little lead from both the LED and resistor as you safely can. Space saving is pretty much of importance here.

    You can wrap either side (positive or negative) with electrical tape. This is just to make sure that the positive/negative never touch while inside the little capsule. The tape also adds as something to fill up the space inside and tighten/secure the LED so you don't have to worry about it falling out, or soldering it in place. Which I have NO idea how the guy who wrote the tutorial ever soldered the LED in there!

    remember you'reyou're bending the leads back up as seen in the picture. Obviously, don't wrap the ends bending back up, as those need to make a connection with the metal inside the capsule.

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    hey I actually did my center console red and my dash blue

    I painted all my bulbs.

    And the center console turned out good, it's STi red now.

    But the guage cluster is all teal and messed up, anyone have an idea? I took out all the green condoms but there's still green?

    ANd how did you get the backlit stereo display to be blue? Which bulb is that?
    '03 white rex

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