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This is a discussion on 2014 WRX Premium Audio Upgrade within the Electronics/Car Audio forums, part of the Interior Mods category; Originally Posted by Nayrb37 I plan to do the install myself, and have had experience with it, so it shouldn't ...

  1. #16
    Master Baiter EJ257's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nayrb37
    I plan to do the install myself, and have had experience with it, so it shouldn't be a problem. I plan to mount the amp under the passenger seat, and then mount the speakers and tweeters in the factory locations for a factory look.
    You may want to reconsider placing the amplifier under the passenger seat. If there's any kind of an issue with the A/C system draining (e.g., the rubber drain line in the engine bay has a problem), water will be spitting out all over your amp.

    Factory tweeter location sucks from a SQ standpoint. Why spend $$ on decent audio equipment and then neuter it due to placement? Consider buying another set of A-Pillars and molding a tweeter housing in them or install them in the kick panels (not as good for SQ as the A-Pillar, but a bit stealthier) for better results. I have my tweeters installed in the kick panels, and you won't notice them unless you look for them. I left my OE tweeters in place, but they just aren't wired. To someone none the wiser, they have no idea.

    Quote Originally Posted by Nayrb37
    I am undecided if I would install a small sub in the future as I am not a bass freak, but I believe this setup will be a significant upgrade over stock.
    You don't have to want your car to shake for a subwoofer to be a fantastic improvement to sound quality. Allow the component speakers to focus on the mids/highs (what they're designed for), and let the sub focus on the lows.

    I'm not a big bass person, and my JL 10W3 getting powered by 250W is perfect. Enough of a "kick" in the seat when it hits, yet is basically inaudible from outside the car. I run a 4-ch amp with 1/2 powering my components, and 3/4 bridged to the subwoofer.
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  3. #17
    Registered User Nayrb37's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info regarding the amp placement. Any suggestions for a place to hide the amp?

    As far as the tweeter goes, I was under the impression that because it is a dome tweeter (as opposed to a ring radiating or inverted dome) placement location is more lenient. I know inverted dome tweeters need to be located higher (a-pillar), but I'm not handy enough to make a-pillar pods on my own. And ring radiating are very directional, which limits optimum placement.

    I really like W3s, and I am thinking about one for the future. And your amp to sub set up is a good idea.
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    Master Baiter EJ257's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nayrb37
    Thanks for the info regarding the amp placement. Any suggestions for a place to hide the amp?
    Up to you. I have an Audio Integrations "Hide-Away" Amp Rack that I've been too lazy to install, so I just have mine ruining any possibility of trunk space. When there's a failure with the A/C draining, it dumps along the passenger side. Ask me how I know...:unamused:

    Quote Originally Posted by Nayrb37
    As far as the tweeter goes, I was under the impression that because it is a dome tweeter (as opposed to a ring radiating or inverted dome) placement location is more lenient. I know inverted dome tweeters need to be located higher (a-pillar), but I'm not handy enough to make a-pillar pods on my own. And ring radiating are very directional, which limits optimum placement.
    I don't know the difference between tweeter styles. I just know that in general, OE location is far from ideal, and the two I recommended would be better for SQ. If you're not good with fiberglass, I strongly urge you to use the kick panels. Tweeter placement is key with component speakers, but I haven't dealt with Polk components, so it may be a different animal.

    Quote Originally Posted by Nayrb37
    I really like W3s, and I am thinking about one for the future. And your amp to sub set up is a good idea.
    Relatively inexpensive, good quality, nothing too high in terms of power requirement.
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    I don't know if it's a hatch or not, but this is where i put mine. I've had zero issues with overheating driving 1.5 hours home from work with it as loud as i could handle it.


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    Registered User Nayrb37's Avatar
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    Sorry to hear about the AC issue. But I really appreciate you warning me!

    Quote Originally Posted by WREXXY View Post
    I don't know if it's a hatch or not, but this is where i put mine. I've had zero issues with overheating driving 1.5 hours home from work with it as loud as i could handle it.

    It's a sedan, so I'm trying to come up with something hidden. I'll have to look at the rear deck and see if I can mount it there.
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    Registered User degobah77's Avatar
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    Just reiterating that the stock speakers are actually fine once you have an amplifier driving them. I upgraded my HU and installed a small sub and I have no desire to replace the speakers as it sounds amazing as is. Loud, crisp, clear, and tight.

    Edit: Also, all bluetooth connectivity and steering wheel controls were retained with the Alpine HU and the steering wheel adapter.

  8. #22
    Registered User Nayrb37's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by degobah77 View Post
    Just reiterating that the stock speakers are actually fine once you have an amplifier driving them. I upgraded my HU and installed a small sub and I have no desire to replace the speakers as it sounds amazing as is. Loud, crisp, clear, and tight.

    Edit: Also, all bluetooth connectivity and steering wheel controls were retained with the Alpine HU and the steering wheel adapter.
    I think the stock speakers were only rated for 20w RMS, so a HU would be fine to power them, but most amps would blow them out. I'm really surprised to hear that they are "crisp, clear, and tight." I never would have expected someone those words to describe the stock speakers!

    Which steering wheel control unit did you use? I love Alpine, and I'm really glad that the steering wheel controls were retained.
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  9. #23
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    Yarp. Now of course I'm not trying to put on a concert in my car, but clarity and definition are retained at very high volumes. Having the LFE crossover really lets the mids and highs cut through on the stock speakers.

    I'm pretty sure the adapter is Axxess ASWC-1, same as the one you're getting. Only thing I couldn't use was the stock bluetooth mic, the Alpine mic had to be installed up by the headliner.

  10. #24
    Registered User Nayrb37's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by degobah77 View Post
    Yarp. Now of course I'm not trying to put on a concert in my car, but clarity and definition are retained at very high volumes. Having the LFE crossover really lets the mids and highs cut through on the stock speakers.

    I'm pretty sure the adapter is Axxess ASWC-1, same as the one you're getting. Only thing I couldn't use was the stock bluetooth mic, the Alpine mic had to be installed up by the headliner.
    I read about having to use the new mic with the HU, but it shouldn't be a problem to put the new mic where the factory mic is to keep it hidden. I have also read that the Alpine mic is more clear and picks up less road noise than the factory mic.
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  11. #25
    Registered User cflip2x's Avatar
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    I mounted my amp under the seat and so far so good.



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  12. #26
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    Hope you hid the wires better than that
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  13. #27
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    Obviously the red wires Duh but the rest Car blue + Wires blue = hidden right?
    Last edited by cflip2x; 10-13-2013 at 04:45 PM.
    2012 WRB 4DR | SPT Exhaust | Short Throw | Rally Armour | WC Lathe Werks Custom TI Knob | Kartboy Bushings | Stoptech Brake Lines | JBK Elements DRL | STI HID Retrofit | XB LED Angel Eyes | GrimmSpeed Lightweight Crank Pulley

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