Installing underseat sub - am I doing this right?
Results 1 to 9 of 9

This is a discussion on Installing underseat sub - am I doing this right? within the Electronics/Car Audio forums, part of the Interior Mods category; So I'll be replacing the stock HU and door-speakers (front and rear) on my '08 WRX. I have my stuff ...

  1. #1
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    21

    Installing underseat sub - am I doing this right?

    So I'll be replacing the stock HU and door-speakers (front and rear) on my '08 WRX. I have my stuff ordered from Crutchfield and I think I have that install under control.

    In a few weeks I'll be looking to install the Sound Ordnance B-8PT under the passenger seat. This is my first sub install I want to make sure I have the process down so when it's time to install I can cruise. Does this sound right?

    Remove:

    1. Passenger front seat
    2. Center console
    3. Dash molding on passenger side
    4. Dash molding around stereo
    5. Glove box
    6. Passenger side kicker panel


    Power cable:

    1. Run 8 AWG cable from battery terminal to firewall
    2. Find empty grommet in center of firewall
    3. Drill 1/8" hole in center of grommet
    4. Run wire through grommet to glove box area
    5. Run wire along floor kicker panel
    6. Run wire to under passenger seat area


    RCA cable:

    1. Remove stereo HU
    2. Connect RCA and remote turn on cable to back of HU
    3. Route cables from stereo area along center console
    4. Run cables under passenger seat area


    Ground wire:

    1. Connect ground wire to exposed bolt from removed seat.



    Then it should just be connect, test and tune before putting everything back together.

    Am I missing anything major or should I be doing something different? I'm thinking the power cable is going to be the biggest challenge. I'm hoping removing the glove box and dash panel from the passenger side will help out. I was thinking it would be easier to do the power and RCA cables together down the center console. I might do that if there's enough space to separate the two (power on one side of the console, RCA on the other).

    Thanks!

  2. Remove Advertisements
    ClubWRX.net
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Registered User silvercookie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Glendale, NY
    Posts
    179
    Everything looks right.

    Just remember when you connect the ground to sand down/wire wheel the paint off the grounding area to give it a proper connection to the chassis.

    Also take your time removing the dash molding. Especially the long passenger side part. Firm yet gentle pulls to pop the clips out and pull it from as close to the dash as you can to avoid snapping the molding in half.

  4. #3
    Subaru Newb MainFrame's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Texas, United States
    Posts
    7,913
    I Support ClubWRX I Support ClubWRX
    I never had to remove a seat to install a sub (or glove box).. and technically you're not supposed to ground anything with a seat bolt because it compromises the integrity of the seat in the event of a crash.


    Also, be sure to install an appropriate fuse in the power cable as close to the battery as possible (3-6"). You don't want to burn your car down if the cable shorts.
    Last edited by MainFrame; 04-04-2013 at 06:13 PM.

  5. #4
    Registered User silvercookie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Glendale, NY
    Posts
    179
    Don't ground under the bracket, ground on top of it.

  6. #5
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    21
    Quote Originally Posted by MainFrame View Post
    Also, be sure to install an appropriate fuse in the power cable as close to the battery as possible (3-6"). You don't want to burn your car down if the cable shorts.
    Whoa... didn't know about that. Thanks for the info. Is this in addition to the fuse that's already in the powered sub? Is there a kit to add the fuse or something I have to wire up myself?

  7. #6
    Subaru Newb MainFrame's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Texas, United States
    Posts
    7,913
    I Support ClubWRX I Support ClubWRX
    Just buy an inline fuse, the install is pretty self explanatory. The fuse in the amp isn't enough, because if the wire gets cut before the amp (like where it goes through the firewall) it will just short the battery and heat the wire to the point of burning very quickly.

    Anything connected to the positive terminal of the battery should be fused close to the battery for safety purposes.

  8. #7
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    21
    Quote Originally Posted by MainFrame View Post
    Just buy an inline fuse, the install is pretty self explanatory. The fuse in the amp isn't enough, because if the wire gets cut before the amp (like where it goes through the firewall) it will just short the battery and heat the wire to the point of burning very quickly.
    I just checked the install for the amp and you're absolutely right. They recommend a fuse within 18" of the battery terminal, but never specify a rating. Do I just match what's in the amp (a 15 amp fuse)? Or is there some wiggle-room with this?

  9. #8
    Subaru Newb MainFrame's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Texas, United States
    Posts
    7,913
    I Support ClubWRX I Support ClubWRX
    You have wiggle room.. how many watts is your amp? A 15A fuse isn't much power at all. But if you figure the fuse in the amp will blow at 15A then there's not much point in going much over that. You could put a 30A or 50A fuse by the battery. I suggest closer than 18", because if you think about it, if the wire pulls free from the fuse, you don't want 18" of hot wire dangling from your battery. That's bound to ground out on something. I would try to put it close enough where if it get ripped out of the fuse, the hot wire can't really ground itself on anything.

  10. #9
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    21
    Thanks all for the help. I went ahead and ordered the stuff. Looks like the amp install kit already includes a fuse, so should be set there. I probably won't get to install until next week. I'll try to post some pictures when it's finished.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •