02 factory sub wiring and charging system questions????????

[tirerob]

So i have lost out to the need to beef up my stereo. the cute little Panasonic sub box under the passenger seat just isnt cutting it after replacing all my door speakers with better and larger Cadence components. so my question is, has anyone tried to adapt a speaker level input to line level(rca) converter at the plug for the under seat amp. this is a temporary measure while i experiment with rear mounted subwoofer/s but i need to get my amp signal without hacking up the factory harness behind the stereo. and i might keep the six disk factory radio for a while too but who knows. untill then, two huge amps are going under the passenger seat for now so i can play with amping my door speakers and a sub in the rear of my wagon. power and a turn on lead are no problem, i already have large power cable and all the hardware needed for under seat install. i even have a hole weekend free to goof around with it lol. havent had a free weekend in years just to plan out and do a install, cant wait!

second question. the charging system........seems kinda meeh. i know there is a "police/fire/ambo-lance" upgraded altranator and wiring harness for my trailblazer which slams out 245 amps. and it just blots in, same exterior. better guts. hella upgrade from 145. is there anything like this for the wrx? i would even go for a higher amp(maybe not 200ish but a higher quality cleaner powered say, 125-140 amp) from a good aftermarket company that builds a bolt in high perf. altranator. i would also love to know ones to avoid...i am looking to install a drop in unit with no mods EXCEPT if it is externally regulated. i have owned two really great 150 amp alts. for my camaro that had a harness to a external box regulating the voltage and Never had a bit of charging whine or engine noise feeding back into my amps. worth the price at the time lol. and since i am window shopping at the minute on this project price isnt much of a concern eithor. yet, heh.

[Rambo]

So you want to upgrade your amps and subs before replacing the head unit? It would be far more effective to get a more modern head unit, tune that for the components you have, then look at subwoofer arrangements. The tiny amp in the factory sub wouldn't even be worth modifying.

As for the alternator, what brought you to the conclusion you need a larger one?

[MainFrame]

All the OEM equipment is junk.. as far as the alternator, I believe the Forester-XT alternator is 110 amp, which is a decent upgrade from 75. That is more than sufficient for most applications. If you really need more you could look into Maniac Electric motors. They make 140 amp and 160 amp versions of the Forester alternator. I have the 160 amp one in my car, it cranks out over 100 amps at 1000rpm and is more efficient than the stock alternator.

[OnTheRun3279]

Get yourself a aftermarket head unit and wiring harness.... I have A 2003 and did my whole system professionally myself I enjoy doing things like that.... The dash is very easy to get into and replace the head unit .... Or if your close to Beaver Falls Pa get ahold if me and I'll do your whole system for $50.... I have A.extra pair of 12" subs sitting here to if your interested in buying them I have Kickers in my car but have the rossford Colgate subs for sale and they fit great in the hatch

[tirerob]

wow 75 amps really on a FI car? thank you mainframe again. ya 110 will do the trick. and the head unit will be coming soon, just working with what i have left out of my camaro(sold, kept the big stuff and the car left with head unit two amps and my old components. got a great price for it so no complaints) ive already fabed up a test box for my huge zapco 10 into the spare tire erea so the floor stays flat...i use the heck out of my wagon. my amps will be mounted under passengers seat, i was just hoping for a quick signal grab but ive no problem splicing into the factory harness at the stereo.

absolute true rambo. but my lights dim and flicker just loading the car's factory stuff like heater wiper and defrost makes the headlights go dimm. looking at a failing alt anyway might as well replace big! and i draw tested my old car's system at a steady 45 amp draw ad resonably loud. course im not installing a third of it but 75 amps isnt enough to run the car well let alone power the 30 amps (ish) im planning to grab with high current amps.


OTR3279 id love to stop by and garage up a install. i used to do it semi pro myself. but im a bit far lol for a quick trip. im guessing about 1500 miles? my computer is being slow and froze up on g-maps heh. i havent even began to run the 4gauge wire yet for power cause im being lazy. i might even pull the zapco out and roll with my ultra light 2ohm flat sub from elemental design. i just dont know yet. so lots of playing around with the only thing ive made up my mind on is a hell-powered 10" sub thats in a sealed compact or hidden enclosure. other than that and a bigger alt(thanks again mainframe) i have to repurchase the head unit and some new audio control stuff to get the sound tuned plus a ton of dyna mat. eer, half a ton...just enough to deaden the big offenders like doors and roof. then ill get to rocken in the bakken lol

[OnTheRun3279]

My headlights dim when my bass hits to... I have a capacitor hear to put in but haven't gotten to it yet....that should take care of that it stores power specifically for your amp instead of taking from your battery/alternator also I know s few people who actually installed an extra battery specifically for a sound system, but I personally don't know how to work that out as far as hookup to the alternator .... But out of curiosity do you have the wagon or sedan? I really wanted the sedan when I was looking to buy mine but have 2 kids and know how much of a difference it makes to have the hatch when it comes to sound quality... When the decibels come from the trunk you get a little distortion.... Good luck with your install fellow bass head!

[tirerob]

heh thats probably your trunk distorting. have you checked your front windsheild seals lately? i dont recomend doing it in a car wash...long story i was browsing the parts computer at work and found two nice options for the 2.0L. one is a 90amp the other is a 110 like mainframe found. i was a little worried about fitment(and the cost of the 110 is a bit higher, like 140 vs 90$) but after i got a look at it both casings look like a direct fit. so i am almost ready to move on the 110, its worth it in the long run for the extra power. only thing im worried about is the charge start rpm. 990rpm for the 110, 740 for the 90 and the 75(my stock) id like to hear from someone who did this swap for a daily driving car. O, my reference for the 110 was a 2010 forester XT 2.0 turbo. the N/A version for the 90.
had my alt tested when i went to the parts store to look at the 2010's just to compare casings and its only putting out 67 amps. bearings and voltage are fine but its getting weak at 140k miles now. even if i wasnt looking for a stereo upgraded alt id still go with the 90 amp. anything under 100 just seems too low for a FI car with electric options and A/C. heck, my trailblazer is mid 100s but it has power everything and heated seats. so ya, i think its a done deal. gonna replace the belts to, the new alt is gonna pull a lot harder than the 75er lol.

edit, with two little ones to pack i'd definitly keep my wagon. i can pack two huge german shorthair pointers, a week in clothes and training gear plus have room for me and the wife to go shopping. you know since its two hours at 75 to a decent wallmart around here lol. ya all the reason for a stealthy ish install. cargo room lol!!!!!