What amp class do you run?

[wapam]

Seems like class A/B runs hotter but gives better sound and class D runs cooler with more distortion.

I have also read that the SQ of the newer class D amps are just as good as the A/B amps.

I am wondering if I could get by with a class D amp under the rear floor of my '11 hatch since there is very little if any ventilation….but am concerned about the SQ.

I could go A/B under the passenger seat but worry about it getting kicked by passengers.

So………any thoughts out there?

Thanks.

[11blackwrx]

i believe it depends on what kind of system you use, u have an amp that only powers my sub and i got a class d mono amp and it works great.

[SD_GR]

Seems like class A/B runs hotter but gives better sound and class D runs cooler with more distortion...
So………any thoughts out there?

Thanks.

Any thoughts will be less relevant than those of, for example, Peter Walker, who has stated that any two amps designed correctly and used within their capacities will not be distinguishable.

Consider also Ivor Tiefenbrun's famous "garbage in, garbage out" statement.

Find the best speakers and best crossover you can buy. Then buy an amp that has adequate current and power to drive them. Select a front end that's as clean as you can. End of story.

[EJ257]

I run an A/B amplifier (JL Audio G4500). I have Ch 1/2 powering my component speakers up front (Alpine Type-X) and Ch 3/4 bridged to power my sub (JL Audio 10W3).

If you're looking to power speakers, I would go with an A/B amplifier. If you're just looking at a subwoofer, I would go with a D.

Find the best speakers and best crossover you can buy. Then buy an amp that has adequate current and power to drive them. Select a front end that's as clean as you can. End of story.

This is sound advice. When shopping for speakers, spend all your money on the fronts. If you even run rear speakers at all, power them off the H/U.

My setup, with proper sound deadening/insulation, is a very affordable way to increase the SQ in your car.

[mycologist]

I use a single ended class A 5 watt hand wired tube amp for lots of midrange growl and crunchy overdrive. Fortunately it was made for Sears so it costs near nothing even now.



Sorry for being a smart-ass, last time I posted the hemi cuda of all car amps and no one noticed.

[G8toWRXDave]

i have a jl audio HD900/5 running my whole system, installed under my drivers seat. it gets warm but has never shut down on me.

[rage-wrx]

As you know I run a class A/B amp Massive Audio NX5 Nano Block Series 5-Channel Car Amplifier

It does get some what hot if you listen to music really loud,which I don't.As of now it is velcored to the carpet.I need to get some bushings to raise it off the floor a little.

Also FYI you will get a lot of good advise & great prices from vendors on DIYMA.

Also check out Car Stereo, Mobile Video, Navigation

[Kankin]

I'm running a XDi805 Arc Audio 5 channel under the driver seat and its great so far and not expensive. Still tweaking and adjusting. Read about it here Arc Audio.

[gunz4me]

I ran a HD900/5 in my Mustang but I left it in the car when I sold it. I had less than a day to return it to stock, and didn't want to be bothered with remembering if stuff I removed back in 2007 still worked or not.

Prior to that I used to be an old school, class ab, Made in USA, purist. The first amplifier to change my mind was a Clarion DPX1851 which is similar in design to some of the Arc Audio KS series amplifiers (class GH). In all honesty, I realized I was wasting money going for sound quality amplifiers on subs then the rest kind of fell into place. Now, I am planning to run my Class AB Lunar Amplifiers in my WRX when I finally get around to building the sound system BUT I wouldn't hesitate to run class d amplifiers from the following lines: Kenwood Excelon, the new Alpine PDX, the MMATS 6 channel, or another JL Audio HD series. The only problem now is that I need 7 channels of amplification so a single 5 channel is out of the question.

[Bottles]

It really depends on the system I normally run Class D on my subwoofers/deck speakers and class a/b on door and/or tweeters.

[SD_GR]

If the amps are designed correctly and not overdriven it will make zero difference what class their topology uses.