This is a discussion on Component Speaker Question - 2011 WRX within the Electronics/Car Audio forums, part of the Interior Mods category; Originally Posted by G8toWRXDave people usually only run mids/tweets on separate amp channels when running active crossovers (think JBL MS-8 ...
The Big 2011/2012 Mod Thread
Ooh,hang on. That is the throb of a turbocharged flat four engine. A sound which,all over the world,heralds the imminent arrival of a moron - JC.
After competing... I removed all door speakers and put stock back in. So it was at one time a dual purpose SQL and spl car.
And I did contradict myself be the engineers say :
1 - subs and amp
2- door speakers / tweeters
3- head unit
I can't say I personally agree with that either as you saw in my thread
Finishing up the install tonight...I'm running the tweeters on Ch. 1 & 2, and the woofers on Ch. 3 & 4. If all goes well, the bad memories of the stock stereo will be gone forever!
Thanks for all the help.
Are you guys using a Cleansweep instead of a LOC? Or in conjunction with?
2011 OBP WRX::Invidia Catless DP::Cobb CAI::TP 93 STG2::KB STS::Perrin Sways::
Same here, I'll be using the cleansweep. I put it under the front passenger seat, and I put the XD700/5 amp underneath the driver's seat. They fit perfectly, without really getting in the way of the air ducts for the rear seats.
Topher, the question you have is a good one - and one that generally leads an audio enthusiast to discover a whole new realm to sound quality. You're talking about the difference between Passive and Active crossover/amplification.
You can Google this debate and find endless amounts of information, but, Essentially:
Passive - Amplify a signal full range (all frequencies) and then run mids/highs in parallel and filter out frequencies to each with passive crossovers (inductors, capacitors and combinations of both).
Active - Filter frequencies at low level and then amplify post-processing.
Pros/Cons of each:
Passive - This option generally costs less. You need half as many channels of amplification, and passive crossovers are generally inexpensive. But that's also their downfall. Inexpensive crossovers introduce problems that can be remedied by throwing money at the problem, but then you're investing enough money where you might as well have went with an Active configuration. High quality passive crossovers are almost an art. Gorgeous, massive inductor coils with gleaming copper windings and sleek, high dollar capacitors. Home audio guys seem to love discussing this stuff.
You probably realize that I'm inclined towards:
Active - You need additional channels of amplification, but high quality amplifiers have come down in price. You also need an active crossover, which adds more expense, but unlike passive crossovers, an inexpensive active crossover will generally sound just as good as an expensive unit. The primary difference here is adjustability. Of which you will have plenty. You now have the possibility of adjusting not only the frequency at which your mids/highs will "cross over", but the slope at which they will overlap. Or underlap. You can often adjust time delay, ensuring that sound from each driver arrives at your ear at the precise same moment. Time Alignment that is crucial to obtaining a pleasant sound stage in the car environment.
If all of this is more complexity than you're up for, then the Focal passive crossovers will sound fantastic and don't worry about it. If not, then welcome to the sickness! Join the forum at DIYMobileAudio.com and start reading =)
Oh, and DRTmcGRK, THANK YOU for the laughs! I genuinely hope you weren't being serious. It doesn't seem possible that you could have been.