A quick question for audio upgrade in 2011 WRX - Page 4
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This is a discussion on A quick question for audio upgrade in 2011 WRX within the Electronics/Car Audio forums, part of the Interior Mods category; How much did you pay for the newer model (120W w/corrective feedback). Also - I had one (not sure which) ...

  1. #46
    Supporting Member mjboudreaux77's Avatar
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    How much did you pay for the newer model (120W w/corrective feedback). Also - I had one (not sure which) in my 07 WRX. The subwoofer itself couldn't have been more than 5 inches. How big is it in the 120W setup you have?
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  3. #47
    Registered User MagnumXL's Avatar
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    Ok, after making the correct adjustments (ahem...cough), things sound considerably better. It is a pain to adjust the gain since you have to be outside the car leaning into it (not where you want to make audible adjustments). I had to turn it back down after cranking the knob up a bit by guessing (I then had way too much bass). I'm starting to think people that have gotten this sub with the car never tried adjusting the controls before they gave up on it because within its range, it can play pretty loud, IMO. Its biggest weakness is 30Hz response. If you have music in that range, you might be disappointed, but I have a 15" 250 watt sub at home that still doesn't put out as much 30Hz as it does at 40Hz, so it's not exactly a shock. You need at least an 18" sub (at home) to get 20Hz flat (and then it doesn't do as well towards 100Hz since it's slow).

    In any case, with around 80dB A-weighted pink noise, my C-response is now (after adjusting the controls on the front) 80dB at 30Hz, 90dB at 40Hz, 96dB at 50Hz, 93dB at 60Hz and 94dB at 100Hz and then starts falling down the curve to 80dB by 400Hz and then about that all the way up. Bass controls on the HU affect 100Hz region about +2dB per turn (~90dB at 0, 92 at 1, 94 at 2, 96 at 3). I have it at 2 at the moment. It has little effect below that since the sub overwhelms it. The sub responds a little as well, but not as much since the control is centered at 100Hz and the sub is crossing over just below that point, somewhere between 85 to 95Hz by an audible estimate after tinkering, leaving the door panel speakers some leeway to adjust from the HU to taste (affects kicker drums more than anything else).

    That's really not a bad response for a car stereo, IMO. It's almost what I aim for at home (again around +10-12dB in the 40-100Hz region which I prefer on most music) and only off by a few dB which a parametric might be able to correct. It certain SOUNDS good, IMO. Bass pigs that want to shake the ground (unnatural, IMO) won't like it at all, but it's fine for a more accurate take. The door panels vibrate a little at some frequencies (nothing like they did when the door speakers were trying to do lower bass), but that should be fixed as soon as my dealer gets the new spacers in from SOA. I actually think the cargo tray dampens the SPT exahust a little (really its rubber isn't terribly different from the Dyna *Pad* (not mat) stuff you would put under the trunk floor) plus it protects the carpet.

    Quote Originally Posted by mjboudreaux77 View Post
    How much did you pay for the newer model (120W w/corrective feedback). Also - I had one (not sure which) in my 07 WRX. The subwoofer itself couldn't have been more than 5 inches. How big is it in the 120W setup you have?
    I'd have to get the receipt out of the car to get the exact figure, but I think it was around $205 for the sub (new). You can get one off ebay for $50 sometimes used, though. I think they charged me around $60 to install it (which involved them removing the driver's seat so it was worth it to me to let them piss with it). I think it's an 8-inch driver, but I'm not absolutely certain. The unit measures around 10.2" x 8.6" x 2" so an 8" woofer makes sense as does the frequency response I'm getting.
    Last edited by MagnumXL; 06-11-2011 at 02:49 PM.
    2011 WRX Limited DGM Sedan - SPT Catback - SPT STS + Kartboy Bushings - 3M Clear Bra

  4. #48
    Registered User 2011REXRoyalBlu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mm05897 View Post
    The bluetooth controls on the steering wheel no longer work with the aftermarket head unit. However, they intalled some sort of adapter that allows the volume and channel/track buttons on the steering wheel to still work. So, just the bluetooth controls were lost. But the new head unit has built in bluetooth, and I simply operate it through the buttons on the head unit.


    The new head unit was $250, plus installation (about $120), plus the steering wheel controls adapter (about $90), plus misc. shop supplies. Total came out to right around $500.

    Should make a good difference for you. However, those speakers are standard size, and could be replaced with decent aftermarket speakers for less than the new head unit cost. So, I would take the plunge and do both.

    If you decide to do just one or the other for now, then swap out that head unit. It is complete garbage. Good luck.
    You didn't lose the function of the steering wheel mounted controls??

  5. #49
    Registered User MagnumXL's Avatar
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    I don't care what kind of head unit you have or even a powered amplifier, the stock speakers aren't going to put out any real bass at all unless you crank up a bass control or EQ of some kind and that creates uneven response centered around the center-point of the pot/EQ point (it starts shaping like a mushroom the more you crank it). Changing the stock speakers won't make a huge difference in bass either because you can only get so much out of a small speaker door panel speaker designed to play nearly full range. I don't hear anything wrong with the mid-range or highs of the stock higher-end set of speakers my WRX came with. What it was missing was quality bass.

    Adding a subwoofer will make the biggest single difference in the stock system's sound. It means the door speakers don't have to be pushed so hard (eating up extra power needed in the midrange and creating the aforementioned mushroomed response curves) and you'll get much flatter fill at the bottom. What kind of bass quality you get will depend on the driver, its crossover and its enclosure (assuming its given enough power) and what kind of effect it has on the car environment (i.e. if your body panels are wailing in resonance with the sub, it's going to create massive distortion in the overall sound).

    Having been around numerous home and car audio people over the years, I find a LOT of people don't want 'clean' sound with good response curves, though. The only thing they want is the bass thumping so loud that they can feel it in their teeth and their neighbors at the other end of the street can hear their trunk sheet metal screaming its own sound from all the vibration put to it. They also start to lose their hearing, but then many already lost it from years of playing ear buds at 100+ dB into the ear canal so they probably wouldn't notice the difference anyway.
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  6. #50
    The Fruit mangostick's Avatar
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    wow.. where did all that come from? I read back two pages and couldn't find any trigger event for that rant....

    You ok man?

    I agree with ya 100% but really unsure what just opened the flood gates. ... ?
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  7. #51
    Registered User MagnumXL's Avatar
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    I think something just reminded me of some previous posts (possibly in a different thread or even at Nasioc) about how the head unit solves everything in the new WRX. It's not the best HU, but like most new cars, crappy door speakers that can't produce real bass are the real problem.

    I remember when cars used to have large 16x9 types speakers in the rear deck (my Z24 did for example) and getting good sound was often as simple as just putting in a new quality set of speakers all around. A couple hundred $$$ and you were in good shape. Replacing a tape deck with a CD one or changer unit was the big thing I was concerned about then. USB (or iPods connected) makes CDs obsolete for the most part.
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  8. #52
    The Fruit mangostick's Avatar
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    right.. I do remember the reign of 6x9's and 6x8's.. capable of some actual low end reproduction. Sadly very few cars come with those sizes anymore.

    Agree'd on the sub.. but for clarity sake alone more power is always better. A new head unit clears that problem up right away and brings with it much better sound quality. I noticed mine sounded worlds better just adding tweets in factory location (base model.. only 4 speakers from factory) and changing the head unit. Bass still suffered though, so I crossed the factory speakers over at the hu as low as I could without distortion (ended up being right around 63hz with eq set to peak at 100hz.. sloping response pretty drastically below that) .. it took some fudging to get it to sound decent even with more power.. but it was dramatically better than the factory HU (not to mention a boat load more features) I'd still recommend changing a head unit first because it makes the greatest difference for just one component (makes adding sub later easier anyway) ..

    Bass improvement though.. we're solidly on the same page with that. It requires a dedicated sub.. absolutely no question.
    OBP 2010 5dr *traded*
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  9. #53
    Registered User MagnumXL's Avatar
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    I've got the 6 speaker setup so I can't comment on the base speakers. I know they were total crap in both my Z24 and my ProbeGT, but my '04 and '11 WRX sound decent in the mid-range and highs. With the sub added, it actually sounds pretty good now. I still plan to get the Sony BT660 HU, though, but it's more for the navigation and backup camera, though. The parametric equalizer should prove handy to iron out the lumps in the bass response, though and more power is always better than not enough (I'm running Carver AL-3 ribbons at home in the audio only room (I've got a separate home theater room) and I have a custom active crossover connected and 350 watts into the 10" woofers and 180 watts (sliding class A) into the ribbons. It can do 115dB cleanly now, but I never play it that loud. Too little power destroys drivers, not too much.
    2011 WRX Limited DGM Sedan - SPT Catback - SPT STS + Kartboy Bushings - 3M Clear Bra

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