Low profile Subwoofer

[SubaruWRC]

Hi, I want to get a low profile subwoofer that doesn't take up any space in my trunk. I'm not sure where it goes, if its not in the trunk there where do I put it? So bascially I want one like Subaru sells, but I feel like an aftermarket one would be cheaper and probably better.

[Heide264]

Those real small ones go under the driver seat I believe.

You can still make your own enclosure if you want, just look into bandpass/isobaric boxes. They won't be small enough to fit under a seat, but with a decent amp and wiring you'll get much better quality.

[Findus11]

BOOM
http://www.audiointegrations.net/home.html

[SubaruWRC]

Does anyone know of any good aftermarket brands that sound better than the factory one?

[Heide264]

You can also look into those 'seat shakers' as I call them. They aren't actually a speaker. Hard to explain, but I've heard surprisingly good things about them.

Here is a link for what you might be looking for:
http://www.crutchfield.com/g_51000/P...ubwoofers.html

[SubaruWRC]

I'm not sure If i am exactly looking for that.

I had something more like the factory one in mind.

Like these

Kenwood KSC-SW10 Compact powered subwoofer at Crutchfield.com

http://signature.crutchfield.com/s_1...nk.html?tp=114

Also will these be plug and play like the subaru sub? If not what will I need?

Just saw this one.
http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CCwQ8wIwAg#

I like it the best out of any of them because of the price and because I believe it has a remote control. How would I hook this bad boy up?

Also does anyone have dimensions for the factory sub. I need to see if this will fit.

[Heide264]

FYI: I think you saw requires remote wire. That is not a "remote control" with buttons. That is a signal that comes from the head unit. When the head unit turns the sound on, it sends a voltage onto that wire which simply tells the amp to turn on.

I can't really tell what you would need to hook it up to be honest. Best guess:

Power: Since they have an amp built in, I would assume you would need to run a mid-size power wire to your battery with an inline fuse (walmart carries cheap ones that will suffice). Pain in the ass to run at times. If I was to do that, I would just buy some amps and a normal sub honestly. But nice for small spaces still. I'm kind of gung hoe with this stuff. I'd say its a safe assumption you'll have to run a power wire through your firewall though.

Signal: Looks pretty cooperative signal wise. Both say they will take RCA jacks (low level/pre-out from head unit) or high level (amplified signal from head unit - like you were hooking a speaker up). You have a couple options. Could probably splice a speaker wire, probably rear, and use that as a "high level" input, or get a line output converter (LOC). The LOC will basically take a speaker wire and cut it down to preout level (speaker connection -> RCA kinda deal). By far, your best bet sound wise, is if your stock head unit has any pre-outs, to use those to connect it.

[SubaruWRC]

Okay so do you know where I could buy the cables that I need.

The remote is just hooked up with a wire, where you can change the bass level.

Also what level experience would you need to do this? I am asuming next to none. Also would the subaru subwoofer harness work?

Also has anyone tried this? Will it fit?

[Heide264]

I doubt the subaru harness would work. I'd think you'd need velcro or a bungee cord to hold it in well, but I haven't looked at it either.

Are you sure the wire is to a remote control? I figured it was a wire that went to the head unit, not to control bass level, but to control if the amp was on or off. Think of it as a switch. It is flipped on when the head unit says turn on, I have music for you.

Walmart will sell cables you need. They aren't the best, but will work. Make sure you use an inline fuse as close to the battery as possible. They sell pre-made "amp wiring" kits. They aren't the best, but work well for your situation in my opinion. They normally have a power wire, grounding wire, and an inline fuse in the power wire. Maybe a distribution block which you won't need. The remote wire is just a really tiny wire that doesn't carry any current.

The biggest concern when dealing with power is the ground. You need to find a GOOD ground for it. Normally for me this involves cutting a U shaped fold in the carpet, sanding the finish off the car body under it (Important, as the paint is not conductive and will defeat the whole purpose), and bolt down the ground with a self tapping screw. Make sure you don't hit the gas tank. Sounds dumb, but **** happens and you don't think about it.

Running the power wire from the battery through the firewall could be difficult also, maybe some people with gauge install experience could help out. It's easy for some cars, huge pain for others.

Signal is easy. Find out if your head unit has pre-outs (I doubt it does). If it does, use an RCA cable to connect it to your sub. If not, splice into a rear channel wire somewhere and connect that up. Doesn't look like you'll need a LOC with them. Do this after you have power wired and tested.

It's really not hard, but you have to be careful. Dealing with power for amps is not a joke. The wires are attached to a car battery (that is why it is important to use a fuse, we are talking instant electrical fire if something goes wrong without a fuse). Make sure you understand the wires on the amp well.

+12V - this is your main power connection. It needs to be thick enough to carry the current for your amp. If not, the thin wire will IGNITE. I kid you not. Do not use a banana clip here, haha. It is "live" 24/7 whether your stereo is on or not. Never lick this wire or touch to the car body. Don't strip the free end until you are ready to connect the other if you want some peace of mind.

Ground - Opposite of +12V. See wiring above. Get it grounded. Important because all types of noise are associated with it if not done right. Not live at least, unless it makes contact with +12V. Safe to lick normally.

Remote - "switch". It comes from the head unit. It tells the amp to turn on. Yours might not have this wire, it might be automatic with signal. I'm not sure. I'd have to see a closer picture of the connections to tell you. Low voltage. Small wire. Similar idea to a relay.

[B]Everything else[B]: +/-, your signal. Normally indicative of speaker level signal. The low level inputs are RCA jacks. Use one or the other.


...Wiring in a nutshell. Just ask questions. I'm here pretty religiously while at work. Use a fuse when in doubt, and double check every connection.

If you don't need an external power supply somehow, then I'm all wet.

[02radioflyer]

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1757728

More insight into under-seat powered woofers.

Boss is traditionally a ****ty walmartish brand but folks seem to be getting good results with them.

For my experience Ive had the Kenwood unit and now the boss 1200 ten inch. The 10" boss is far superior in every measure of capacity and reproduction... but doesn't fit under the seat. 8 inch boss sub is a fairly popular under seat/ space saver/ minimalist/ upgrade from what Ive read.

[ralph958]

I have a Boss Bass600. I also have a Basslink. I have used these in previous cars. Here's my opinion.
The Bass600 is the best under seat sub I've ever seen. It is extremely well made , powerful , and will make a noticable difference. (and the price can't be beat).It will put the Subaru under seat sub to shame. Yes , it has a wired volume control.

The basslink is in a different league. It's as close as you can get to having an actual Sub. It produces a LARGE amount of bass. (It also takes up trunk space).
I personally went with a 10 inch sub and installed it with Audio integrations sub enclosure in the hatch. I have a Boss CH250 amp under the drivers seat to power it. It really thumps !
FYI , I've had very good luck with Boss products. There amps are cheap , well made , reliable , and CHEAP ! Amazon has everything you need.

[Drews]

Ok...you all give the worst advice ever. Seriously.

Don't go cheap. You'll just be dissatisfied and end up spending more in the long run. Powered subwoofers are great, but not something I would use in any of my vehicles. Most of them work with your factory harness as well. But they have some serious limitations.

If you want something that sounds good, you're going to spend a decent amount of money on your sound system. Don't skimp. Trust me, you'll love yourself in the end. JL sells a stealthbox with with a 600W 10" woofer that takes up minimal room in your trunk and sounds AMAZING. I'd stay away from shallow mount subs considering you have a trunk. The shallow mounts are better used in a truck that doesn't have an extended cab. You have the space, so use it up.

[02radioflyer]

Worst advice ever?
He asked for a specific type and location. If you can give better insight on topic please don't dilly dally my fine sir.

Seriously...dudebro?





Not that you don't bring up a valid point.

[Drews]

Worst advice ever?
He asked for a specific type and location. If you can give better insight on topic please don't dilly dally my fine sir.

Seriously...dudebro?





Not that you don't bring up a valid point.

Yes I can give better insight on the topic. That's like saying, "I'm allergic to bees, but I don't want my leg to hurt if I have to use my epipen so I'm going to stab my eye with it." At which point I would immediately point out that there are several other places to inject your epipen without the pain of doing it in your eye.

So it's not a perfect analogy, but you get what I'm saying.

Powered subwoofers aren't going to give you a very rich sound and the size of the cone is obviously limited because of the application in which you are trying to use it. A good powered subwoofer it's going to run you at least a couple hundred bucks. You can get a nice driver for a couple hundred. If you have the money, ~750$, I still say the JL audio stealth box is the way to go. It's quality and comes ready to go, all you need is the amp. There are some other companies out there that make boxes that take up minimal room in your trunk as well if you want to go the cheaper route.

I undertand the OP's want to conserve trunk space, but the powered subs and shallow mounts just don't really provide that great of a sound in a sedan. You have more space to fill with sound and those two options just aren't going to cut it. Especially if he has an aftermarket exhaust on the car, he wont be able to hear the low end with the two options he is looking at.

Yes I know the option I'm presenting is significantly more expensive, but it's worth it in the end.

[06scoobyrex]

If you want something that sounds good, you're going to spend a decent amount of money on your sound system. Don't skimp. Trust me, you'll love yourself in the end. JL sells a stealthbox with with a 600W 10" woofer that takes up minimal room in your trunk and sounds AMAZING. I'd stay away from shallow mount subs considering you have a trunk. The shallow mounts are better used in a truck that doesn't have an extended cab. You have the space, so use it up.

+1
a stealthbox would be nice but they are $750!!!