This is a discussion on Low profile Subwoofer within the Electronics/Car Audio forums, part of the Interior Mods category; Originally Posted by SubaruWRC Its the remote wire that is thin and blue that tells that amp to turn on. ...
remote wire goes from the back of your head unit to your amps normally. In your case your sub I would imagine.
Basically when the head unit is turned on, it puts a low voltage on the wire, which tells your amps to turn on. Similar to a relay.
The wiring harness for the head unit should have a remote wire coming out of it. Take it to your sub.
Hey I finished putting everything in yesterday and it sounds great. And for what i wanted the sub is nice, especially because it is hidden . It isn't busting windows but takes the lows from the other compenents and produces a cleaner sound.
I will post pictures sometime next week most likely. If anyone has any questions on the install I would be glad to help.
Glad you are happy with it.
You used the pre-outs on the back for the signal, correct?
Also, you might be able to set an electronic crossover from the head unit for your other speakers. Depends on the head unit I am sure.
Congrats. Glad it worked out as predicted. The wimminz like underseat subs.
Last edited by 02radioflyer; 07-02-2010 at 01:25 PM.
02redwagone on Nasioc
Hey I did use the preout for my subwoofer. Also there are crossover settings for the for the front, rear, and subwoofer. Is it just to set the ranges each speaker plays?
Does that sub have a crossover in it?
..You are walking the fine line of a normal person to an audio inclined one. It's an expensive line just a warning. More expensive to walk than just to jump over though.
I'd stop here, or decide to go with an amped set up and do the full thing right.
EDIT: misread your post. Crossovers just set the frequency range that pass through it. After the crossover cutoff, the volume of the sound past that rapidly decays. For example, if you set your crossover at a 50Hz high pass filter and a 1kHz low pass frequency, you will mostly hear only 50-1000Hz sounds out the other end. Outside of that range, depending on the type of filters used, volume is cut by a fraction that multiplies by how far outside the range the sound is. This would be approximately a mid-high woofer.
Last edited by Heide264; 07-06-2010 at 09:14 AM.
i would like to see pic and how you did it cause i am going to do teh same thing to my wrx cause i need some good sound for it
wrxman. What are you going to do just the sub, or the sub and the head unit? Personally I would suggest both because I can really tell a difference in the sound quality and it makes the install easier... no splicing into your stock wiring harness. PS use Crutchfield its worth it. Great customer service and they include everything you need to install it.
here are some photos of it after the fact. On the beginning of page 4 I posted some pictures of me routing the power for the sub to the battery.
here are some of the subwoofer installed, the head unit, and the location of the fuse in the engine compartment.
Also s6300200 is a picture of where i routed my usb cable for my head unit. It is out of the blanked switch where the dccd would be. In my opinion its the best spot.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Picked up a http://www.crutchfield.com/s_113KDCX...-KDC-X794.html headunit and a http://www.amazon.com/Boss-BASS600-L.../dp/B000OSZA44. These are going into my 02 wrx. I have the rca cables figured out but how do I run power to the sub? It's a 12V powered sub... and doesn't car batteries produce 15v? Please! need help
"they call me tq. too quick"
Battery to sub for power.It is 12 volts.
02redwagone on Nasioc
No, most car batteries are 12v (yellow top optima runs a little higher). You're alternator should be putting out right around 14.4v to the system (although the regulators in the stock subie alt are isht, so you're probably getting more like 12.5v-13.5v). Car audio equipment is typically designed to run between 12v and 14.4v-15v, and in fact the closer you are to 14.4v the easier it is for your amp to push more power to your speakers.
To get power to your sub you will need to run a power cable directly from the battery to the sub. I would recommend 4 gauge for your application. Also, the power wire should have a fuse placed inline with it as close to to battery as possible (40amp should suffice for that sub, but if it blows you could always go with a 90amp fuse). That way if your power cable shorts out for whatever reason it will blow the fuse instead of burning your car to the ground (you don't want that do you?).
You're also going to need a good ground for it, at least 4 gauge. Ground wire should be short and bolted directly into the body of the car with the paint sanded so the bare metal is exposed.
+1 to what they've said. In your manual it should say operating range and should be something like 9-15 volts or something like that.
2003 Silver Pontiac Vibe (sold)
1990 Red Miata on Megasquirt3, soon to be getting the stock turbo off the WRX
2002 Silver WRX sedan, Full Exhaust, 16G, Cobb AP self-tuned on E85 (work in progress)
1986 Chevy K20, 350 4x4 on Megasquirt. Brings the car home when it breaks.
Future cars? Too many to list.
Thank you very much "mainframe", when mounting the sub under the passenger seat, can I just drill 4 separate holes and screw it in after I remove the seat or do I run the chance of puncturing a brake line? Thank you all for the immediate response
"they call me tq. too quick"