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This is a discussion on 2009 wrx stereo help within the Electronics/Car Audio forums, part of the Interior Mods category; Does anyone know, with complete certainty, if upgrading a stereo (deck, speakers, amp) in a 2009 WRX voids the warranty? ...

  1. #46
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    Does anyone know, with complete certainty, if upgrading a stereo (deck, speakers, amp) in a 2009 WRX voids the warranty? I've heard from some people that doing anything to your car without it being a subaru part completely voids your warranty.

    Hopefully not, I've got
    Boston Acoustics Pro 50 for front
    Boston Acoustics Pro 60 for rear
    Powered by Boston Acoustics GT-4100 amp RSM 100watts x 4 at 4ohms
    all waiting in their boxes to be installed once I decide what deck to use. On that note, anyone have any sugestions? I'm looking for best bang for the buck. I don't want to spend 500-1000 if I can get by with a 200-300 deck. Not doing a sub since my 15 month old would go deaf if I added one. lol

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  3. #47
    Registered User elwray's Avatar
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    Nothing you do can outright void the entire warranty, short of wrecking the car and getting a salvage title.

    They can only deny certain warranty claims if your aftermarket part caused the problem. So, say your headlights stop working, they could potentially try to chalk that up to part of the electrical system that you messed with, though it's a stretch. It's up to them to prove that the aftermarket modification caused the problem.

    If your engine spins a bearing and you changed your speakers, there's no way they can try and blame that on electrical.

    EDIT: Depending on the dealership, they COULD try to blame it on the speakers, lol. But it won't affect warranty coverage of that.
    2009 WRX Hatch PP Dark Gray Metallic
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  4. #48
    The Fruit mangostick's Avatar
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    I didn't turn on the radio on my test drive either.. I just snapped up a 2010 5dr, radio is slightly tolerable for a factory rig.. in the sense that it works, but otherwise sucks for sound quality. I have a pioneer avicF700bt out of my last car sitting here ready to go into the new ride (will be nice to have my nav abilities back again and more juice to work with) .. however, I sat staring at the radio trim today and ran my fingers around the outside of it feeling for a good point to pull or pry on it. Sucker fits on there nice n tight. I know it pops off.. I've seen pics of 09's without it in place.. but my question is ..

    what is the best method to get that trim piece off of there without breaking it or marking up my dash? If it was a old car I'd just get out there and pry it till it popped off, but its new and I'm fussy about it I dont want to mark it up.

    Any Ideer's? .. input? All appreciated!
    OBP 2010 5dr *traded*
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  5. #49
    Registered User elwray's Avatar
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    I found one of those metal nail files, with a plastic handle/scraper thing (I don't know what it's for, but it fit in between the bezel trim and the dash perfectly!)

    If you can't get anything in there, open the passenger door, pop off the half moon-ish shaped cover, unscrew the screw holding on the silver strip of plastic, then work that off towards the stereo. It sits under the bezel, so when you get close you can use it for leverage and get the trim off.
    2009 WRX Hatch PP Dark Gray Metallic
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  6. #50
    The Fruit mangostick's Avatar
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    Cool, I just wanted to make sure it didn't have a hidden screw in it or some sort of trickery involved to remove it without breaking it. Now on to finding a double din install kit and the correct harness. Oh, which leads me to my second newb question
    Why does everyone list a feckin nissan harness for the 09-10 wrx? .. I speculate its just because at build time it was available and cheaper to use than producing a specific one?
    OBP 2010 5dr *traded*
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    My name is Shawn, I'm a Devout Practicalist and I'm addicted to flat4's
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  7. #51
    Registered User elwray's Avatar
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    Nope it's just a bunch of clips! Scary the first time; easy after that.

    You can check my install summary here:
    Kenwood DNX5120 installation summary - NASIOC

    It's not the best, but it has part numbers at least!
    2009 WRX Hatch PP Dark Gray Metallic
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  8. #52
    The Fruit mangostick's Avatar
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    Sweet! Thanks man, greatly appreciated!

    Now lets see if I can track down that mount kit n harness tomorrow
    OBP 2010 5dr *traded*
    SWP 2013 FRS
    My name is Shawn, I'm a Devout Practicalist and I'm addicted to flat4's
    This page has had 1,666 visits
    SUCH IS MANGO!

  9. #53
    Registered User SpoolR's Avatar
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    Im sure a lot of people will disagree with this but ive been intalling my own systems for like 10 years and my 2 most recent cars i just added better door speakers (brand name, ebay cheap) and it sounded a lot better, but be careful the stock radio cant push the pwer and will hurt itself and speakers if not careful with volume, then i upgraded again and got a better cd/mp3 player, with great sound quality(good fountdation) and that got the speaker a lot louder. Eventually I stepped it up again and got the amp for the door speaker and a sub w/ amp. But if you dont want to spen a lot of money new deck and door speakers are good, just keep the bass down.
    hope this helps--

  10. #54
    Registered User elwray's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mangostick View Post
    Sweet! Thanks man, greatly appreciated!

    Now lets see if I can track down that mount kit n harness tomorrow
    Now there might be some newer harnesses out that have the steering wheel control pins in it (if you have the SWCs, that would make it TREMENDOUSLY easier than trying to transplant pins from other harnesses or tapping into the stock harness). I think someone on NASIOC or this forum may have been making some for the community.
    2009 WRX Hatch PP Dark Gray Metallic
    Torqued Performance Stage 1
    Cobb CBE
    Kenwood DNX5120

  11. #55
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    Head unit choices

    I've got a 2009 basic WRX 5-door, and I'd really like to put in a kick-ass double-DIN DVD/Nav head unit. I'm swaying between JVC and Pioneer.....feature-wise they're both very close, but JVC's got a detachable face which is nice when you live in the meth capital of the world, and Pioneer's got voice-control and a more intuitive interface. Any experience with either, or another recommendation?

  12. #56
    The Fruit mangostick's Avatar
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    I've had my pioneer avicF700bt for a while now and really like it. It worked great in my last car, if you check pioneer's website they even have pics of it mounted in a Impreza.

    Pioneer USA - Navigation Receivers

    I cant speak for the other but the avic unit I have sounds great, has enough power to keep the midbass punchy, interface is easy to use and best of all it works on windows CE .. you can hack the $%^& out of this sucker.. change all kinds of things if your motivated to do so. There are also forums surrounding the AVIC series units.. lots of info to take a look at. AVIC411 is a good one.

    The current models are the 710, 910 .. the 900 series have a dvd player, I dont need to roll with dvd's playing so I chose the 700 series with the cd cd/r interface

    hope that helps some.


    Elwray:

    I've got the basic system, didn't see the reason to add the extra cost of the factory stuff if I was just going to yank it anyway


    Edit;

    Pics of my install here
    http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/interi...ml#post2534368
    Last edited by mangostick; 10-25-2009 at 04:48 PM. Reason: more info
    OBP 2010 5dr *traded*
    SWP 2013 FRS
    My name is Shawn, I'm a Devout Practicalist and I'm addicted to flat4's
    This page has had 1,666 visits
    SUCH IS MANGO!

  13. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by mangostick View Post
    what is the best method to get that trim piece off of there without breaking it or marking up my dash? If it was a old car I'd just get out there and pry it till it popped off, but its new and I'm fussy about it I dont want to mark it up.
    Not sure if you already did the install but I followed these instructions on my 09 wrx this past weekend and it was straightforward and easy. Hope it helps.

    forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1399151

    (sorry, just registered when I ran across this thread from a google search so couldn't add a click-able link)

  14. #58
    The Fruit mangostick's Avatar
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    No apology needed mang

    I used a flat smooth (and dull edged) putty knife and gently slid it under the trim piece.. slowly gave some wedging force and worked the panel off by working my way around it till I could get my fingers under it. Once I could do that I just popped it off.

    pics of finished work here

    http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/interi...ml#post2534368
    OBP 2010 5dr *traded*
    SWP 2013 FRS
    My name is Shawn, I'm a Devout Practicalist and I'm addicted to flat4's
    This page has had 1,666 visits
    SUCH IS MANGO!

  15. #59
    Registered User bWaldberg's Avatar
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    If you are thinking of adding a sub and don't want to loose much trunk space I found these custom boxes.

    Perfect Fit Subwoofer Enclosures Subaru Lineup! - NASIOC


    Does anyone know if you can install an aftermarket steering wheel control (swc) system? Do you need the upgraded stereo setup for that to work or is it just smarter to replace the HU? It looks as though you can only get the swc if you have the upgraded audio package.

  16. #60
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    Reposting this from another post in a similar thread for the 2010

    ok, I know I will probably catch a load of it from some people, but having been in Car Audio for nearly 25 years I am going to put this out there as a new way to think about your (anyone in general) audio system and what needs to be done with it.

    First - Contrary to popular belief, you head unit is probably not the piece of crap you think it is. Most of them are built by the same companies building the aftermarket unit you would purchase anyway. using the same parts for the key features that make the biggest difference. (ie cd transport, processor <though usually more limited but this it not huge> D/a converters) yes back 10 plus years ago heck even back 6 years ago stock units were still borderline junk but this is not the case today.

    Factory amps- these are still in the I wouldn;t keep one for a paper weight list. very few are actually built well to perform as aftermarket amps will provided you are buying quality and not replacing junk with more junk. (yes a watt is a watt, but how that watt is created and transfered to your speakers is not always the same)

    Speakers- this seemingly continues to be the worst part of OEM audio. the build a car and then go crap how do we put a speaker in here when we did not plan for it.... we have someone build us some piece of crap that will fill the hole and depth. in pretty much every subaru I can remember you need some kind of speaker spacer ring to get anythign worth while in the stock locations. for those who are looking to get the biggest bang for the buck audio enhancement over stock this IS where you start.

    when shopping for speakers think about a few things before your purchase.

    A) do I ever plan on adding amplifiers to my system? if yes then buy speakers that will handle the added power... do not buy teh cheapest crap you can find as they will 1. not improve your current situation and 2. will be worse when you try to add more power.

    b) what kind of sound do I like.... some speakers (tweeters) will have a "harsher" sound than others this is typically seen in metal dome tweeters as they tend to reproduce higher frequencies more efficently so they seem like they are playing them louder then a soft dome tweeter, which will appear to be calmer on the top end to the ears. Mylar or composite based tweeters will be somewhere in between. (that does nto always mean they will sound better to you.)

    c) What are my expectations of my speakers? this also goes with the question of adding amps later. if you have plans of adding some type of sub-woofer to help out with the bottom end then you front will not need to work as hard in most aspects. (this is because most people that tune a sub will build it and have it play from about 80 or 90 hz down. this covers a good portion of the midbass area as well so your system does not have to work as hard through the smaller speaker to get it all done.) Note: true sub-bass is considered anything below 60 hz mid-bass is 60-250hz, mid range 250-3000, and highs are 3000 up
    If you do not have intentions of adding a sub to your system then you will want higher end speakers from your front end that will play a bit lower on the bottom end to help fill in this area. (hard to do well but can be done with the right speakers and set up.)

    other things to consider to help improve the sound in your vehicle are vibration and noise reduction. this is done via Damping materials (most people refer to Dynamat) though there are many others and a couple are better for less money.


    now once you decide to get into amplifiers (or upgrading amplifiers you say how to get get from my stock head unit to the amp... well there is the old school high level (or speaker level) to low level (or RCA) converters, but these are archaic at best. JL, Arc Audio, Peripheral, Audio Control I am sure others all make OEM integration devices (known as summiung units) they take the input signal form a stock head unit read it and flatten it out (baiscally this means the prebuilt eq in the headunit is defeated to a zero slope) this gives you a good clean signal into your amp, and will usually boost the signal via a line driver. from here you simply runb your RCA cable to your amps and/or processors you are good to go form there out to your speakers. some higher end units are available form Audio Control, rockford fosgate and Audison with built in processors that are actually really nice, different features from each but will do more than any "high end" head unit currently available on the market.(rane from about 600 to 800 dollars. yeah most peple will go wholly s--t, when you talk about what a GOOD head unti would cost plus the upgrades for other accessories you will lose by replacing your factory... (ie steering wheel controls, maybe built in bluetooth, six disc in dash ect... 800 bucks would seem cheap.)

    if you still feel the need to replace your headunit. I did mine in my subaru.. being that it wass the stock single din and I went to a Double Din Navigation system. make sure you find one that has good features with a good warranty. others may just want to go single din with more fueatures, to the same good reliablity and warranty.

    Some brands you may want to look at:

    Head units: Kenwood Excelon very reliable and 2 yr warranty
    Eclipse pretty good line good sound quality, 3yr warranty plus a 1 yr theft guaruntee if installed by authorized dealer.
    Pioneer nav is ok little hard to navigate menus but still good, good reliability premier line is gone so no more two yr warranty.
    JVC built in the sam plant as Kenwood now with same parts for key parts so reliablity is up good add on features (built in HD and/or bluetooth)

    Speakers: there are tons of brands that are good.

    Arc audio, Image Dynamics, Hertz, Hybrid Audio Technology, Focal, DLS, JL Auido these are just some of the key brands I would recommend. the best sounding speakers by far are the ones your ears like!

    Amps... there again are many brnd to choose from. some are junk others are not. brands to look at.... Arc Audio, Hertz, Audison, JL, Focal, image dynamics, Zapco, Orion (again these are lines I know to be reliable)

    Subs you have similar choices as above Arc, Image Dynamics, JL, Focal, T3, RE, Ultra Sub... the list goes on. but agian only listing brands I know to be good and reliable with good support from the manufacturers)

    When shopping for products you will surely look at online resources... I will say this, as opposed to it as I am being a small business owner... it will be done... be careful of the comapnies you buy from... even though they may say they are an authorized dealer for said line check with the actual maker of the product to verify this...(if they are not and you have problems with product bought from them it could get hairy as the manufacturer will NOT warranty the product and you may end up stuck with a paper weight.) also consider that buying online it will be hard to get good support for what may be a specific to your particular project problem becuase the guy on the phone cannot see what exactly is done. (this is if you attempt your own installation)
    Which bring me back to your local retailers, yes they may be more money for the same product (or for some you will not find online) but a good shop has the experts in our field (or should) they work on cars day in and day out, not one car here and there. so they know the trick and quirks of the vehicles. and every car has them. they also know what the capablities of the the products are and it physical limits, so they are more able to set up your equipment properly.
    Yes most shop will install your gear you bring in.. .but it WILL almost always cost more (this is due to the fact that they like everyone else are in business to make money not rip you off) and if you have any problems with your gear they have ablsolutely no responsibilty to help you with any kind of warranty on the product not purchased form them. they may or may not offer a warranty on the install of this type of gear (varies by shop)

    I know some of you will say the ONLY way to do it is byh doingit yourself... here are my thoughts, yes some people may be cable of this and it will seem easy... here are the other things to think about... the computer circuits in cars today are super sensitve and if you tie into a wire you are not absolutely positive about its functions you could cause major damage to multiple systems. in most newer vehicles 1 wire will serve multiple functions... (ie VW 1 wire will controll door locks, dome light trigger, window function and trunk release). Air bag systems are not thougth about as anyhthing to fear... however some vehicles if you pull a seat with airbags in it and do not properly disengage or depower the SRS system you could cause damage to the system or possibly deploy the bags when you plug them back in, or worse cause them to fail when they are needed.

    beyond this good installers have the tools and techniques to get the absolute best perforance out of the gear you have purchased.
    now I understand that in some areas you may not have a good, qualified shop close, but before you say I know more... I encourage you to make sure you do.

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