i EVNY YOU!
This is a discussion on Building my new system this week. within the Electronics/Car Audio forums, part of the Interior Mods category; i EVNY YOU!...
i EVNY YOU!
I can barely hear my sub.
McIntosh MC427 (100Wrms x 2) ---> CDT CL61A-25PRO
Alpine MRD-M605 (600Wrms x 1 @ 2 ohms) ---> JL 10W6v2
Deck crossovers: 80Hz HP / 18dB, 80Hz LP / 12dB
Deck subwoofer level: 15
Deck subwoofer outputs: MONO, 0 degree phase (default)
Amp gains: McIntosh MINIMUM (2V), Alpine digital gain (2.5V)
Alpine temp when subs running: 97.8F
Alpine voltage while running: 11.8V (I did not have the car running)
NO EQ'ing WHATSOEVER, everything dead flat
I came from dual 10W3v2 subs years ago to this single 10W6v2. I am very disappointed so far in the sub. I had my McIntosh gains at almost half way, and couldnt hear a thing. (sub). Then I lowered my McIntosh gains to complete minimum, and finally just barely started hearing the sub. I could put my Alpine amp gains to a +4 or +6 bass boost and hear it a little better, but I dont want to burn up a nice sub. Still, I wanted it to be nice at "7" subwoofer deck level, so I'd have room for more when needed. Now, I have to max it and still barely hear it. I never hear it period until I get past deck power 20. I will give this a few days and see if anyone with W6 experience can offer some advice, but I was thinking 600Wrms would be way louder.
Last edited by plac; 03-13-2008 at 11:15 AM.
Your sub enclosure could be wrong. Nothing is more important than the sub enclosure. I have installed crappy subs with crappy amps but built the perfect enclosure for the system and blown the customers (who knew they bought crap) away.
What are the specs on the enclosure? If there are none, do you know how to measure the volume of an irregular shape?
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...hp?series_id=6Recommended Sealed Enclosures
10W6v2-D4 0.625 cu. ft. / 17.7 liters-----net internal volume
Recommended Ported Enclosures
10W6v2-D4 0.75 cu. ft. / 21.2 liters---net
A minimum distance of 3/4-inch (20mm) is required between the back of the speaker and any wall of the enclosure to allow proper operation of the pole vent.
W6's like small sealed boxes. Even if your enclosure was ported its way too big.
You can either add obstructions such as a wooden block to decrease the internal volume of the box, or buy another enclosure or subwoofer.Pillow stuffing is also used when a box is too small then what is recommended. Its intent is to slow down the internal sound waves thus pseudo increasing box volume. It is also amplifying your problem. With it installed, your box is acting like about a 1 ft^3 box which is way way too big for a w6.I left all the pillow stuffing in the box also, it came with it.
Last edited by 06wrx4me; 03-13-2008 at 11:58 AM.
I just confirmed my rear deck situation on my own car. I have two big holes in my rear deck, one on each side. The only thing in between trunk and cabin is some foam.
Your sub channel should see about 35hz up to a maximum of 110hz or so.
Its not gonna be a problem with the fronts because there is actually gonna be a little overlap between the top end of the sub and the bottom end of the separates.
If you set it at 80hz you cut out most of the subs range and consequently its loudest frequencies. That is another part of your problem besides your box being 150% too big.
confused about the above statement. Does "it" mean the front crossover or the sub crossover? You said change my sub to 50Hz LP? So I would roll off from 50 up 80Hz depending on my slope?
I also have a sub subsonic filter. I can cut out 15Hz and lower or 30Hz and lower to make my amp power more efficient. Its off right now.
Subsonic should be set at 30HZ.
Regarding box size, its still a little big, might try velcro-ing/taping an appropriately sized wooden block to the inside of the box to see if your output improves.
Leave the Subsonic filter on "off".
If you have the LPF set to 80hz, no wonder why your sub is quiet.