Building my new system this week. - Page 6
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This is a discussion on Building my new system this week. within the Electronics/Car Audio forums, part of the Interior Mods category; i EVNY YOU!...

  1. #76
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  3. #77
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    I can barely hear my sub.

    Specs:
    Alpine 9887
    McIntosh MC427 (100Wrms x 2) ---> CDT CL61A-25PRO
    Alpine MRD-M605 (600Wrms x 1 @ 2 ohms) ---> JL 10W6v2

    Settings:
    Deck crossovers: 80Hz HP / 18dB, 80Hz LP / 12dB
    Deck subwoofer level: 15
    Deck subwoofer outputs: MONO, 0 degree phase (default)
    Amp gains: McIntosh MINIMUM (2V), Alpine digital gain (2.5V)
    Alpine temp when subs running: 97.8F
    Alpine voltage while running: 11.8V (I did not have the car running)
    NO EQ'ing WHATSOEVER, everything dead flat

    Comments:
    I came from dual 10W3v2 subs years ago to this single 10W6v2. I am very disappointed so far in the sub. I had my McIntosh gains at almost half way, and couldnt hear a thing. (sub). Then I lowered my McIntosh gains to complete minimum, and finally just barely started hearing the sub. I could put my Alpine amp gains to a +4 or +6 bass boost and hear it a little better, but I dont want to burn up a nice sub. Still, I wanted it to be nice at "7" subwoofer deck level, so I'd have room for more when needed. Now, I have to max it and still barely hear it. I never hear it period until I get past deck power 20. I will give this a few days and see if anyone with W6 experience can offer some advice, but I was thinking 600Wrms would be way louder.
    Last edited by plac; 03-13-2008 at 10:15 AM.
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  4. #78
    Resident meany-rator 06wrx4me's Avatar
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    Your sub enclosure could be wrong. Nothing is more important than the sub enclosure. I have installed crappy subs with crappy amps but built the perfect enclosure for the system and blown the customers (who knew they bought crap) away.

    What are the specs on the enclosure? If there are none, do you know how to measure the volume of an irregular shape?
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  5. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06wrx4me View Post
    Your sub enclosure could be wrong. Nothing is more important than the sub enclosure. I have installed crappy subs with crappy amps but built the perfect enclosure for the system and blown the customers (who knew they bought crap) away.

    What are the specs on the enclosure? If there are none, do you know how to measure the volume of an irregular shape?
    the W6 is one of the specifically recommended subs for that enclosure. But here are the specs:

    Internal Airspace: .85 -.90 cubic feet

    I left all the pillow stuffing in the box also, it came with it.
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  6. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by plac View Post
    the W6 is one of the specifically recommended subs for that enclosure. But here are the specs:

    Internal Airspace: .85 -.90 cubic feet
    Therein lies your problem. Judging by your pic its a sealed enclosure. JL's recommendations:

    Recommended Sealed Enclosures
    10W6v2-D4 0.625 cu. ft. / 17.7 liters-----net internal volume

    Recommended Ported Enclosures
    10W6v2-D4 0.75 cu. ft. / 21.2 liters---net

    also:

    A minimum distance of 3/4-inch (20mm) is required between the back of the speaker and any wall of the enclosure to allow proper operation of the pole vent.
    http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...hp?series_id=6

    W6's like small sealed boxes. Even if your enclosure was ported its way too big.

    You can either add obstructions such as a wooden block to decrease the internal volume of the box, or buy another enclosure or subwoofer.


    I left all the pillow stuffing in the box also, it came with it.
    Pillow stuffing is also used when a box is too small then what is recommended. Its intent is to slow down the internal sound waves thus pseudo increasing box volume. It is also amplifying your problem. With it installed, your box is acting like about a 1 ft^3 box which is way way too big for a w6.
    Last edited by 06wrx4me; 03-13-2008 at 10:58 AM.
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  7. #81
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    Thanks for the tips dude!! I'll remove that stuffing next..

    VIDEO SHOWING SUB MOVEMENT:
    http://74.220.202.31/~bellbott/w6test.wmv
    (Not on youtube to preserve quality, download it raw)
    2011 VW GTI - K04

  8. #82
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    I just confirmed my rear deck situation on my own car. I have two big holes in my rear deck, one on each side. The only thing in between trunk and cabin is some foam.
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  9. #83
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    Your sub crossover is set at too high of a frequency. It needs to be at 50Hz or lower probably 30HZ with a w6v2.
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  10. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06wrx4me View Post
    Your sub crossover is set at too high of a frequency. It needs to be at 50Hz or lower.
    hmmmm.. the big problem there is... my fronts barely go below 80Hz... I've always set my subs at 80Hz.. but its something to think about. thanks.
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  11. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by plac View Post
    hmmmm.. the big problem there is... my fronts barely go below 80Hz... I've always set my subs at 80Hz.. but its something to think about. thanks.
    The Crossover frequency is the lowest frequency that gets sent to that particular function. So on your fronts, they get from 80hz-5k hz for example.

    Your sub channel should see about 35hz up to a maximum of 110hz or so.

    Its not gonna be a problem with the fronts because there is actually gonna be a little overlap between the top end of the sub and the bottom end of the separates.

    If you set it at 80hz you cut out most of the subs range and consequently its loudest frequencies. That is another part of your problem besides your box being 150&#37; too big.
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  12. #86
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    Also at 600watts RMS you are running on the ragged edge of too much power to that W6 and might void your warranty if its bad. 300watts RMS is about perfect, you have enough power there to drive 2.
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  13. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06wrx4me View Post
    If you set it at 80hz you cut out most of the subs range and consequently its loudest frequencies. That is another part of your problem besides your box being 150% too big.
    After sub displacment its not nearly as out of range as it seems. Without the stuffing, its sounding better. Audio Integrations said they have installed a lot of W6 in this box with good results.

    confused about the above statement. Does "it" mean the front crossover or the sub crossover? You said change my sub to 50Hz LP? So I would roll off from 50 up 80Hz depending on my slope?

    I also have a sub subsonic filter. I can cut out 15Hz and lower or 30Hz and lower to make my amp power more efficient. Its off right now.
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  14. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by plac View Post
    After sub displacment its not nearly as out of range as it seems. Without the stuffing, its sounding better. Audio Integrations said they have installed a lot of W6 in this box with good results.

    confused about the above statement. Does "it" mean the front crossover or the sub crossover? You said change my sub to 50Hz LP? So I would roll off from 50 up 80Hz depending on my slope?

    I also have a sub subsonic filter. I can cut out 15Hz and lower or 30Hz and lower to make my amp power more efficient. Its off right now.
    I'd change your sub to 30HZ LP filter if possible. With the HP filter at 100hz. This is for sub channel only.

    Subsonic should be set at 30HZ.

    Regarding box size, its still a little big, might try velcro-ing/taping an appropriately sized wooden block to the inside of the box to see if your output improves.
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  15. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06wrx4me View Post
    I'd change your sub to 30HZ LP filter if possible. With the HP filter at 100hz. This is for sub channel only.

    That is the confusion. I dont use HP crossovers on my sub, I use low pass. So are you saying change my sub crossover from 80Hz LP up to 100Hz LP? What slope would you recommend starting with? I have 12/18/24 available. (And throw in the 30Hz bottom end cut also?)
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  16. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by plac View Post
    That is the confusion. I dont use HP crossovers on my sub, I use low pass. So are you saying change my sub crossover from 80Hz LP up to 100Hz LP? What slope would you recommend starting with? I have 12/18/24 available. (And throw in the 30Hz bottom end cut also?)
    No change the LPF on the sub to 30HZ. The "Low Pass filter" filters everything it is set at and below. So if its set at 30hz, it will filter out 0-30Hz, i.e. these frequencies will not play through your sub.

    Leave the Subsonic filter on "off".

    If you have the LPF set to 80hz, no wonder why your sub is quiet.
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