Amp overheating
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This is a discussion on Amp overheating within the Electronics/Car Audio forums, part of the Interior Mods category; It seems as though my amp is overheating and then shuts off to preserve itself. I have the lead wired ...

  1. #1
    Registered User BrandonWRX's Avatar
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    Amp overheating

    It seems as though my amp is overheating and then shuts off to preserve itself. I have the lead wired to a 12V acc, so could having it on all the time even when the radio is not on be a problem? I get a good half hour of actual radio play then it overheats and turns back on after 10 minutes, repeating the cycle over and over.

    It is mounted under my drivers seat on the carpet. The cooling ridges (heatsinks) on the sides are always very hot to the touch. It does not have a built in fan. I was thinking of having a computer fan mounted above it to run when the the car is on (acc 12 v). Or will putting spacers under the mounting points to let air under the amp be sufficient?
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    you might be running the amp at more ohm then it can handle...explain more about ur setup

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    Registered User BrandonWRX's Avatar
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    I am only running one 4 ohm subwoofer under the passenger seat. The amp is bridgeable and allows 4 ohm speakers. I am running speaker level inputs from the rear 2 speakers to a line converter and then with RCAs to the amp. Another thing, the subwoofer is dual cone, two red connections and two black. Since the amp only requires one of each (red and black) I wried both the blacks together and both the reds together and connected them to 1 red and black connection on the amp apiece.
    The amp is 200 watts, the subwoofer is rated at 200 also.
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    i think you dropped it to 1 or 2 ohm which is way too much for the amp ur running...check this out http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/le...pedance=DVC2x2

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    So you have the dual drivers wired in parallel, which will make the resistance divide by 2. If each driver is rated at 4 Ohms, then with the two in parallel then the amp is seeing it as 2 Ohms, which would be making the amp heat up more than usual...

    There are a few different ways to hook it up...
    - Only connect 1 driver
    - Wire the drivers in series (Amp+ to + of one driver, Amp- to - of other driver, remaining + & - wired together) which will make 4 + 4 = 8 Ohms
    - Add a 2 Ohm resistor in series with your current setup, making it a 4 Ohm load

  7. #6
    Registered User BrandonWRX's Avatar
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    Yeah I am definately running 2 or 1 ohms. I will wire the connections into a series to make it 4 ohms. thanks a lot for the diagram and help. Im not sure if its 4 ohms X 2 or 2 ohms X2. It just says 4 ohms impedence, no instructions came with the box. So will 8 ohms affect quality or make the amp run badly?
    Last edited by BrandonWRX; 06-01-2005 at 09:57 AM.
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    8 Ohms won't be bad for the amp, but you won't be pushing the same wattage through the speaker... The amp will run cooler though. You're probably lucky the amp had protection built in, since you might have toasted it running at 2 / 1 Ohms for an extended period...

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    Registered User ynotajb's Avatar
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    Are you running the power lead off an acessory? And not from the battery? If so this can also heat up your amp more than usual.
    dude one time i tried to put the trailer bully into the coiler, and I got all messed up

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    Registered User V8killer2pt5's Avatar
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    Lol

    Can we say fire? First redo all the wiring, you have bridged the amp not good especially with a amp that's fanless. So sell the amp and get one that's internally cooled. Next use 4 guage wire for your power lead and for the ground wire. Be sure to use a lag bolt to mount the ground wire. If your under 500 watts you need a 30 amp fuse. best yet I would just buy a amp kit to match your appropriate wattage>ebay. The remote wire should be tapped into your radio's remote turn on, hence radio is on so is amp. Be sure to mount the amp where it can get fresh air. I do alot of systems and never had problems, even with my amp under my drivers side seat with the rear mat covering it.
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    Registered User BrandonWRX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ynotajb
    Are you running the power lead off an acessory? And not from the battery? If so this can also heat up your amp more than usual.
    No, I am running the power lead from the battery. Ground to the chassis. 12v remote wire from a 12v accessory line. I hooked up the sub leads in a series so now its running 8 ohms instead of the 2 that was overheating the amp. I have a 20 A fuse in line with the battery., it hasnt blown.
    Im running 4 lines off the speaker level rears on the stock headunit, left and right rear + and - to a line converter. Then running left and right rcas to the amp.
    If youre not supposed to bridge the amp, then why is it bridgeable for single 4 ohm subwoofer setups? I was also thinking of running 2 1 ohm resistors in series/parallel to make it 4 ohms and not 8, how would I do that?
    I bought an amp kit for the wattage I was using, 200 watts.
    If I wire it to the radio remote on, it only works in radio mode and not when I want to play cds.

    I know the stock HU is worthless but I like the stock appearance for now.
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  12. #11
    Registered User ScoobVee's Avatar
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    Alright, Im assuming you bought a 2 channel amp for a DVC (dual voice coil) sub @ 4ohmx2 when you wire them in parallel, (+to+, and -to-) you will get one 2ohm load, if you wire them in series (-to+ and -to+ on each set of terminals) you will get an 8ohm load, now it seems that you've wired it to the amp bridged, which would bring it down to 1ohm, not good for the amp. what youll have to do is either trade the sub for a single voice coil @ 4ohm and bridge that on your 2 chann. amp.; you can also trade the amp for a mono block amp thats 2ohm stable and run the coils in parallel to make for a 2ohm load, or if its available you can get a dvc sub thats rated @ 2ohmx2 and hook each coil to its own channel, assuming the amp you have is 2ohm stable on each channel (most 2 chann. amps are)
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  13. #12
    Registered User sideways1's Avatar
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    Depending on your type of amp 4 ohm mono (bridged) may be all it can handle most two-channel amps can only handle 4 ohm mono, 2 ohm stereo. As far as your accessory problem goes the reason it only comes on with the radio is because you have it hooked to the power antenna lead on your deck, there should be two wires that come out of your deck that have blue on them, one will be your remote, and the other will be your antenna. If you don't have both then your acc hook up won't hurt anything. You are correct in saying that you were running at 2 ohms when you wired red to red and black to black that's 2 ohms assume each coil or "cone" as you described it a seperate speaker 2 4 ohm speakers wired in parallel equals 2 ohms

    impedance (ohms)
    --------------------------- = load amp sees (ohms)
    # of speakers

    if it were me I would run it 8 ohms untill I could get another sub identical to yours and then wire the coils in series and then parallel the remaining leads so your amp will see a 4 ohm load, the resistor thing is a little sketchy because a resistor will constantly be that impedance, and when a sub is playing the impedance will vary up and down so you are not going to be at 4 ohms at the amp. In theory it should work but I don't think it will.
    Hope this helps.

  14. #13
    Registered User ScoobVee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sideways1
    As far as your accessory problem goes the reason it only comes on with the radio is because you have it hooked to the power antenna lead on your deck, there should be two wires that come out of your deck that have blue on them, one will be your remote, and the other will be your antenna.
    Its a stock deck, he made the right call w/ hooking it to acc.
    - Local Riceist

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