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The opti-coat thread

29K views 96 replies 22 participants last post by  grendels_wrx 
#1 ·
Ok all... for those of you who don't know much about Opti-coat (OC) I have started this thread to discuss it. There are several members here who have done their own cars already as well as myself. Subaru and Japanese car paint has a notorious problem of very soft and thin paint. Partially because of their laws about emissions over there from what I understand, but whatever the reason, this stuff is excellent to add to the paint to give it some extra hardness and protection. Other members can chime in with their experiences as well.

I am in no way affiliated with Optimum, nor do I work for any company (other than working as a detailer on my own) so I have no sponsors or anything of the sort.

Claims that Optimum makes:

1. A layer of OC 2.0 is appoximately 2 microns thick (about 100 layers of your average wax)
2. Once fully cured OC hardness is at a level 9h hardness
3. OC is scratch resistant (not scratch proof!)
4. OC is claimed to be a permanent coating... it's not, but with care you can get 2 years or more out of it.
5. Waxes and sealants will not stick well to OC. I spoke with someone from Optimum and his response about what would last longer than other products was Optimum's Opti-seal (I have never tried it). They claimed it to last 2-3 months on OC if one wanted added slickness.
6. OC will spot fairly badly, with city water, hard water, etc etc dry the car IMMEDIATELY after washing.
7. As I read from an interview with one of the higher ups at Optimum... it is said that Opti-coat does not break down under most extreme heat, so it may be used on wheels, exhausts (which one member here has done) brake calipers, underhood plastics, wheel well plastics or metals, outside plastics around mirrors, between pillars, etc.
8. ANY area that is to be coated MUST be cleaned thoroughly with a mixture of alcohol and water. (I used 50/50 but less alcohol can be used) You can also add 1-2 small drops of standard dish soap to ensure all oils are cleaned from the area to be done.
9. OC is not a slick finish once fully cured and not a beauty type of product, but a nice clean car always brings out good looks from it IMO.
10. OC will not stick to itself once cured (also from the same interview with Optimum I read). It is claimed however that a slight polishing will rough it up enough to add a layer to it.
11. The only ways of getting OC off of your finish are a full polish, sanding, or special chemical removal.
12. To get the best look, either get your car fully polished and paint straight and looking the way you want before adding OC, so you can have that look "locked" in, or do the car when it's brand new... make sure you look it over well and be certain you are happy with how the paint looks prior to adding OC.


As I said, several other members have done their cars and can also chime in with their experience. With this type of paint being so easily chipped and scratched I highly do recommend this product.
 
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#5 ·
I did the Opti-Coat yesterday. I did not polish, as I only got the car 3 weeks ago. I did give it a VERY thorough wash, it was significantly nicer than when I picked it up. Application was not as easy as everyone else said, at least at first. Couple of pointers I wish I had had were to be CERTAIN that your light is sufficient, and to start on a small panel first.

Light wise, I tried doing it in my front garage, to try to get out of the heat, but I could not get enough light to work with. Once I rolled the car out half way from the garage, into the shade made by the garage, I had much better success seeing what I was doing.

My other mistake was starting with the roof. I followed the instructions on the package, but the initial amount I put on the pad was only enough for about 1/4 of the roof. I would suggest starting with a fender, to get a feel for the amount that you need to put on the pad for adequate coverage.

One thing that I did, especially because I could not see the product flashing/high spots at first, was to wipe the entire panel down lightly with a microfiber towel about 5 minutes after application. It seems to have worked, because I can see no high spots today.

But, without a doubt, the worst thing about Opti-Coat is the applicator. I have big hands, and had a very hard time holding onto it. Many times, it folded over itself, or jumped out of my hand when I got to a tacky spot. If I could tell the folks who make Opti-Coat to improve one thing, it would be the applicator.

Now for the good. THIS STUFF WORKS. My dad was very skeptical of it, thinking that it was too difficult to apply and would leave visible high spots, all said and done he is very impressed by it. My method of wiping the entire panel ensured that I would have no high spots. He also didn't think it would be as good at repelling water as a good coat of Mothers. Today, I hit the hood and fender with a hose and both he and I were shocked at how the water just jumps off the panels. 3 minutes with a microfiber towel and the panels were completely dry with no water spotting. Now my dad is planning on using the remaining 10 cc's on his 350z.

I can't wait for the car to get a little dirty, so I can see how effective it is when I go for the first wash.

On a side note, I just hit 950 miles. SO CLOSE. I'll be honest, I've been hitting 5,000 rpm every now and then for the last 50 or so miles, but I am not concerned. I am going to use my free oil change sometime this next week, and then it will be warp speed from there.

On a side note to the side note, I drove my dad's 350z around a bit today. I can't wait to get a short throw shifter, other than that, I think I prefer my Scooby (Ok, the low end torque on the VQ35HR is addictive as well).
 
#8 ·
I did the Opti-Coat yesterday ... ... Today, I hit the hood and fender with a hose and both he and I were shocked at how the water just jumps off the panels.
Aren't we supposed to wait a week or two before trying to wash the car? I don't think it's fully cured until several days/weeks after applying...

But, without a doubt, the worst thing about Opti-Coat is the applicator. I have big hands, and had a very hard time holding onto it. Many times, it folded over itself, or jumped out of my hand when I got to a tacky spot. If I could tell the folks who make Opti-Coat to improve one thing, it would be the applicator.
+1 Dude I dropped that applicator more times than I can count. Good thing I took note of some unique characteristic of the side I put the stuff on, or I would have been wiping the car with the wrong side of the applicator half the time.
 
#6 ·
I just read that with Opti Coat "You can seamlessly layer the coating on full panels and spot repairs for around 30 days or until it's fully hardened."

I think I might layer some areas after I wash the car next weekend. Get a really good coat on the front clip to protect from life.
 
#7 ·
I have not read anything about layering it on without using some sort of light polish so that the OC can stick to something since it won't stick to itself.... perhaps it will though, I have not had any luck.

I put my OC on my car at about 800 miles I guess... so far now at almost 3k I have no sandblasting and no chips on the front of the car so I don't know that I would worry to much about layering.. but hey, if it makes you feel good about it then by all means go for it.
 
#9 ·
On a side note, I have a bit of my IPA solution left over in the squirt bottle. Is it OK to use this on small areas of paint after washing the car?

I noticed that our cars continue to drip water for almost an entire friggin day after washing it and it leaves little soap spots all over my rocker panels/side skirts. I guess the doors drain down through little tiny holes at the bottom of the door panels, and this just drips all over the car if the doors are closed. I figured out that the IPA solution makes short work of them once they have dried, but I'm wondering if there's any harm to the OC when I do this.
 
#10 ·
Nope, it won't hurt it at all. There are tests where even acid was applied to OC and it didn't get it off so alcohol definitely won't matter. You just have to blow dry those areas out really well. Some people choose to use megs or some other quick detailer after or during drying.
 
#14 ·
My earlier quote was directly from an Optimum rep on a detailing forum, you are good to layer for 30 days or so. Also, you are safe from water in an hour, and to wash in 1 day, they say wait a week before using other detergents though.

Best deal I found was a place offering free shipping.
 
#15 ·
Have you tried to layer OC over another layer before? I have and it doesn't seem to flash away at all. I think it should be noted that supposedly, layering OC really doesn't have much of a benefit... can't prove that, just have seen a few very good detailers say it.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Hey,

I just ordered some OC. My 12 WRX is only about 2 weeks old, only 501 on the ODO (It spent about 7 days at the airport)! Anyway, last week I washed, then hit it up with the clay bar. Paint still looks great. I then took it in and had the 3M clear bra put on it. The clear bra looks great, It's hard to see in a lot of the places they install it. Anyway, I hear you can apply wax over the clear bra, but what I am wondering is has anyone applied a product like OC over this? I have to admit, that having had other types of clear bra's on older cars, I really like the way the new 3m bra looks by comparison. They covered, more or less the entire front of the car, the front bumper, headlights, mirrors, about 1/3 of the hood and the scoop. Plus they installed it under the door handles and the rear quarter panels near the wheels. No bubbles or anything and this was at the dealer. The only thing I can see if I look for it is on the hood. None of my friends have even noticed it.

Edit, well I guess I should have looked around before I asked this question.

http://www.autopiaforums.com/forums...39070-question-about-opti-coat-clear-bra.html

It appears that you can apply it over the clear bra. I will probably test it out on a section of the car such as the clear bra underneath the door handles. I will let you know what I find out. I plan on using the application method mentioned above, I also found that on YouTube.
 
#20 ·
Hey,

I just ordered some OC. My 12 WRX is only about 2 weeks old, only 501 on the ODO (It spent about 7 days at the airport)! Anyway, last week I washed, then hit it up with the clay bar. Paint still looks great. I then took it in and had the 3M clear bra put on it. The clear bra looks great, It's hard to see in a lot of the places they install it. Anyway, I hear you can apply wax over the clear bra, but what I am wondering is has anyone applied a product like OC over this? I have to admit, that having had other types of clear bra's on older cars, I really like the way the new 3m bra looks by comparison. They covered, more or less the entire front of the car, the front bumper, headlights, mirrors, about 1/3 of the hood and the scoop. Plus they installed it under the door handles and the rear quarter panels near the wheels. No bubbles or anything and this was at the dealer. The only thing I can see if I look for it is on the hood. None of my friends have even noticed it.

Edit, well I guess I should have looked around before I asked this question.

Question about Opti-Coat and clear bra - Autopia Forums - Auto Detailing & Car Care Discussion Forum

It appears that you can apply it over the clear bra. I will probably test it out on a section of the car such as the clear bra underneath the door handles. I will let you know what I find out. I plan on using the application method mentioned above, I also found that on YouTube.
I went over the door areas on my car with OC where they had the OE 3m covering on it... didn't seem to be an issue. I would just clean it very well and make sure it's free of all oils or anything else that may prevent it from sticking.
 
#21 ·
So is OC as resistant to chipping as the 3M clear bra? I imagine not, but if it's at least half as protective as a clear bra ($600 for front bumper, 1/3 hood), then $60 for the OC is a steal.

Is this product useful more as a replacement to waxing/polishing or as a replacement for a clear bra, or both?

If you did apply OC, would you have to do it on the entire car? Would you notice a difference in the finish of an OC'd panel versus one you didn't OC? It's the front bumper, hood, mirrors and front fenders that are most suspectible to chipping.
 
#22 ·
So is OC as resistant to chipping as the 3M clear bra? I imagine not, but if it's at least half as protective as a clear bra ($600 for front bumper, 1/3 hood), then $60 for the OC is a steal.

Is this product useful more as a replacement to waxing/polishing or as a replacement for a clear bra, or both?

If you did apply OC, would you have to do it on the entire car? Would you notice a difference in the finish of an OC'd panel versus one you didn't OC? It's the front bumper, hood, mirrors and front fenders that are most suspectible to chipping.
I applied it more as a wax replacement/supplement. It's probably a little bit chip resistant, but I can't imagine that it's as effective as a 3M clear bra. I dropped pliers on my bumper just yesterday and it messed it up... I would guess a clear bra would have fared a bit better.
 
#26 ·
Ok so I got the wife's Lexus detailed, polished, touched up, color sanded, blahblahblah and then I applied Opti-Coat to it later that night after a full IPA bath.

I'm almost convinced I didn't apply the Opti Coat thick enough on my car now! Her car feels amazing to the touch - I seriously feel like I'm touching a candy coated... well, car I guess. But it's awesome; you can tell when you grab the door handle, run your fingers over the sleek sleek fenders, when you caress it with your tongue... Ok not that last part. I certainly had more issues with it flashing properly, but that part I can learn better.

Is there any way for me to apply more of this stuff to my car without having to polish the existing stuff off?
 
#27 ·
Some cars paint seems to soak up more of the stuff. That VW I did just seemed like it was a little bit different when it came to application. If you want to apply more, the surface has to be lightly scuffed with a finishing polish or it will have nothing to bond to. Keep in mind that at first that a car always feels slick at first... it takes a while to cure completely in which you will not feel that same slickness. It certainly won't hurt anything to add more since it was your first time doing it, it's always a learning experience.
 
#29 ·
No, I didn't because it was brand spanking new. Well, realistically it was probably 60-90 days after being painted when it arrived in the US anyway. But it's good to hear some feedback that maybe I'm not out of my mind and I still did it right. Also, I'll let her car cure for a while and see what I think still.

I applied the stuff on Saturday night (finished at midnight) and on Sunday morning I went out to the car and was able to still use a microfiber cloth to even out some areas... That was good news, too!
 
#32 ·
Quick question.

I plan on applying the opticoat next week. My understanding is 1 tube is sufficiect for more than one car. Once opened can I store it for later use, & under what conditions) & for how long?
 
#33 ·
Quick question.

I plan on applying the opticoat next week. My understanding is 1 tube is sufficiect for more than one car. Once opened can I store it for later use, & under what conditions) & for how long?
I don't think it actually has a finite shelf life as long as you close it back up with the cap that it comes with. And yes, I've done my WRX hatch and my wife's Lexus RX330 and I've only used 1/4 of the stuff in the tube.
 
#38 ·
So I am almost done with the opti coat. I have a small issue.

I debadged the car & there is some ghosting. I fixed this by applying wax & buffing. Now my issue is, will opti coat adhere to this waxed surface.

Or if I wash the wax off & apply opti coat will the ghosting go away that way?
 
#39 ·
How long has the OptiCoat cured? And what do you mean by "ghosting"? Under where the badges were?
 
#40 ·
No,I didnt apply opticoat yet. Washed with Dawn twice,clay bared,washed again. Also debadged & after drying the car I noticed ghosting(the letters showing under the badge). I was going to apply opticoat today.
 
#41 ·
Whew! I was gonna say you might be screwed. BUT, it doesn't look like that's the case at all :)

AFAIK, you need to apply the OC to a completely clean surface. No wax, no polish, no fingerprints, no breathing. I don't think the OC will adhere/cure on top of a wax, and I'm not a detail guy so I'm not entirely sure how you should go about getting the ghosting to go away...

Methodical4u?? Thoughts?
 
#44 ·
Mileage doesn't matter, environment does. If parts of the paint have seen sun, and others haven't, unless the paint has been taken care of extremely well, there will be a color difference. We had cars that hadn't even been purchased yet require paint work due to negligent unloaders - the paint never matched, no matter how new the car.
 
#45 ·
He already clay barred... what else can he do? Seems like a lot of work for a new car!
 
#46 ·
It goes beyond clay barring. Pics would be helpful, but at 1200 miles a mildy abrasive polish like Menzerna SIP or Prima Swirl should help restore the paint. I'd recommend against a rubbing compound due to its side effects, Methodical may have some advice
 
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