My new 2012 WRX prep and opti-coat
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This is a discussion on My new 2012 WRX prep and opti-coat within the Detailing Forum forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Well, FINALLY I got my car days ago. It came from NY, i'm in Md so it was an 8 ...

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    My new 2012 WRX prep and opti-coat

    Well, FINALLY I got my car days ago. It came from NY, i'm in Md so it was an 8 hour trip. As with any new car I buy I instruct them to not touch the car with any wash or wax. They had to take off the white PDI stickers for inspection, so I had them blue tape all areas of the car were protected on the way home.

    Once I got the car here it wasn't to dirty and had the common factory flaws you see in just about any car out there. My car was built to order and delivered so had 4 miles on it when it got to me. I waited a day or so and them began taking all the tape off of the car. It took about an hour just to get all of it off.

    I pulled the car outside and rinsed the car down with just water first and then got out the foam gun and actually foamed the car once and let it soak and then foamed it again, I also used hot water to help with the tape residue.

    I am one of those types that believes that a new car should have at the very least a fine polishing done before adding any sort of LSP to it.

    So I got the car washed and used my blower to dry it all off. I looked it over and here were some of the flaws I found. Just a few pics of these, but the whole car here and there had some issues.

    Before


    After:


    Before:


    After:


    So basically the whole car consisted of these smaller issues, but coming right from the factory, having the plastic ripped off, tape put back on etc etc gave it these issues. Not to mention careless workers reaching over it or putting things on the top of it, etc etc. A car company doesn't care much about marring or any of that, they want the car YOU pay good money for to be sold... do a poor job washing and waxing it and moving it off their lot. Once you're gone... you are no longer important to them lol. The way it is my friends.



    I always use Menzerna polishes... they have a lot of oils in them so they last longer before breaking down... of course the downside to that is that they have a lot of oils lol, which simply means it can hide things that are still there if not taken off which you will see that I do with my IPA wipedown... I just really like Menzerna, but there's many really nice polishes out there. I also used a Meguiars yellow "soft buff" 6" pad with my Flex DA polisher. Here are just some random shots of after the car had been polished out.












    After all of the polishing was finished I took my IPA wipedown bottle (50/50 with 2 drops of dish soap mixed in) and I sprayed down ALL areas of the car.. where the gas cap is, in all the little nooks and crevices to get the polishing dust out. Here are just a few picks of the the emblems where the dust accumulated as well as the wing and the side of the car. Spray it all down let the area soak... wipe from the top to the bottom. Get a dry, fresh towel and make sure it's all dry and no streaks are there.






    I think you get the idea... spray it EVERYWHERE!



    A little shot of where the fender had been opti-coated and the door has not. The opti-coat many say doesn't have a real "wow" factor to it. I can't completely agree. I like it and feel it gives the paint a very glassy appearance, especially a few days after it has been applied and has cured longer.



    The finished pics:











    A few things to note. Make sure when polishing around wheel well areas, your pad doesn't pick up loose dirt that will scratch your work.
    Menzerna final polish or ANY fine polish tends to get hotter quicker, so be careful, especially around corners where the paint will always be thinner as well as plastic areas. Also, final polish will give you a luster that even if your chord from your buffer hits it, it will make a mark that you will have to buff out. Be cautious around all areas that have been done and are ready for your wax, sealant or in this case opti-coat.

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    Registered User Eric05mx's Avatar
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    Looks good! Congrats on the new ride. Thanks again for the pointers on using Opti-Coat. I still need to take some pictures of mine, just took a quick one with my phone the day I applied it. Did the wheels and calipers a few days later. I'm still curious as to how it's going to hold up with all the crap on the roads around here.

    Also, what do you think about using Opti-Coat on the exhaust? Not the stock one but I was thinking of applying it to my new Invidia Q300 just from the axle back to keep all the road grime from sticking to it.


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    Thanks man. I'm not really to sure about the heat resistance that Opti-coat provides. Obviously an exhaust gets pretty hot. The only sealant that I know much about as far as heat goes would be FinishKare 1000p. It's good up to about 215 degrees... though I have read as high as 250. You could always apply a few coats of something like that every few months. I'd find out just how how the exhaust gets though.

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    @ Methodical4u, is it safe to polish a brand new car? I heard that paint has to heal for like 30 to 60 days before you can actually polish or apply wax. is that true? The thing is I want to apply opticoat on my car too so i prolly need to prep it the same way you did.

    Also, is it necessary to use a blower to dry the car or can i use MF?

    car is hawt btw! i can't wait to get mine.
    Last edited by peekeesh; 03-22-2012 at 03:20 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by peekeesh View Post
    @ Methodical4u, is it safe to polish a brand new car? I heard that paint has to heal for like 30 to 60 days before you can actually polish or apply wax. is that true? The thing is I want to apply opticoat on my car too so i prolly need to prep it the same way you did.

    Also, is it necessary to use a blower to dry the car or can i use MF?

    car is hawt btw! i can't wait to get mine.
    Paint has to be able to breathe for a certain time... polishing as far as I know does not hurt it.. when a car gets painted at a body shop for instance... it is polished there to even the paint and also to help with fading the paint to match.

    The opti-coat may be a good idea to hold off on.. but you also have to look at the build date on the car. By the time it gets to you, it's likely been on the car for a minimum of 30 days, but more than likely 60.

    The paint can be a bit soft being new, but this is the reason that I used the final polish with a softer buffing pad. I did the same thing with my 370z when it was new and never had any problems. I didn't use the opti-coat on it however.

    EDIT: I forgot to add that no, a blower isn't needed... I use it because it's better to not touch the paint if you don't have to, but a good drying towel will do the trick just fine.
    Last edited by Methodical4u; 03-24-2012 at 01:56 PM.

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    Looking good bro!

    Quote Originally Posted by peekeesh View Post
    @ Methodical4u, is it safe to polish a brand new car? I heard that paint has to heal for like 30 to 60 days before you can actually polish or apply wax. is that true? The thing is I want to apply opticoat on my car too so i prolly need to prep it the same way you did.

    Also, is it necessary to use a blower to dry the car or can i use MF?

    car is hawt btw! i can't wait to get mine.
    That 30-60 days is for repainted panels at body shops. It's to allow time for the solvents in the paint to out gas while it cures (waxing would trap them in). Cars from the factory are painted with a totally different paint system and are baked at much higher temps. They are 100% fully cured long before they ever reach the dealers lot, so polish and wax away.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RaskyR1 View Post
    Looking good bro!



    That 30-60 days is for repainted panels at body shops. It's to allow time for the solvents in the paint to out gas while it cures (waxing would trap them in). Cars from the factory are painted with a totally different paint system and are baked at much higher temps. They are 100% fully cured long before they ever reach the dealers lot, so polish and wax away.
    Thanks man... I love using the opti-coat. I am however wondering how Werkstat's acrylic jett trigger might work over top of it to add a bit more gloss. I emailed them about it, so we'll see what they say. I guess it wouldn't hurt to try it and if it doesn't work it doesn't work... they also have another products out call Glos which has a flashing type of effect... maybe that would work. I don't know if you've used it or not... but for bringing out flake and especially on lighter colored cars, I have never seen anything any better looking. It's not expensive either and it goes on like quick detailer, but can be layered within 30 minutes of the first application.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Methodical4u View Post
    Thanks man... I love using the opti-coat. I am however wondering how Werkstat's acrylic jett trigger might work over top of it to add a bit more gloss. I emailed them about it, so we'll see what they say. I guess it wouldn't hurt to try it and if it doesn't work it doesn't work... they also have another products out call Glos which has a flashing type of effect... maybe that would work. I don't know if you've used it or not... but for bringing out flake and especially on lighter colored cars, I have never seen anything any better looking. It's not expensive either and it goes on like quick detailer, but can be layered within 30 minutes of the first application.
    You can top it with pretty much any product you want for increased gloss. The problems is that the durability of the topper will be diminished, and most importantly you loose out on some of the key attributes OC offers, like reduced dust attraction and the ability to readily shed away dirt. You will however retain the added UV protection so if you like waxing often I say go for it. I just listed my car for sale and I just topped it with BFWD the other night to give it some more pop.

    Rasky

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    Quote Originally Posted by RaskyR1 View Post
    You can top it with pretty much any product you want for increased gloss. The problems is that the durability of the topper will be diminished, and most importantly you loose out on some of the key attributes OC offers, like reduced dust attraction and the ability to readily shed away dirt. You will however retain the added UV protection so if you like waxing often I say go for it. I just listed my car for sale and I just topped it with BFWD the other night to give it some more pop.

    Rasky
    Do you feel using a wax or sealant over the OC can be clearly seen through the OC to add that pop?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Methodical4u View Post
    Do you feel using a wax or sealant over the OC can be clearly seen through the OC to add that pop?
    To the average eye...probably not so much. To a detailer, yes, but it will vary per product. BFWD made a noticeable change to the look of my paint. Down side is that my car attracts more dust again...

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    Quote Originally Posted by RaskyR1 View Post
    To the average eye...probably not so much. To a detailer, yes, but it will vary per product. BFWD made a noticeable change to the look of my paint. Down side is that my car attracts more dust again...
    have you had a chance to ever use Werkstatt Acrylic Jett trigger? I'm telling you bro if you haven't... i'll send you a sample. It's cheap at about 16.00 a bottle you spritz a panel like you with with a QD but it has NO cleaning properties so you can layer it and it cures in 30 minutes. 1 coat you or I would notice a difference.. but 3-5 layers... it's just purely amazing stuff. I would have to go as far as to say on lighter colors especially it looks better than anything i've seen. IMO it looks better than the BFWD and i'm a big fan of that stuff.

    It's just so easy though ... just a little on the panel... wipe it with a mf towel until it disappears and that's it... not waiting to haze or anything. 1 bottle would easily do 30 cars. If you are light with your coatings then I would say 50.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Methodical4u View Post
    have you had a chance to ever use Werkstatt Acrylic Jett trigger? I'm telling you bro if you haven't... i'll send you a sample. It's cheap at about 16.00 a bottle you spritz a panel like you with with a QD but it has NO cleaning properties so you can layer it and it cures in 30 minutes. 1 coat you or I would notice a difference.. but 3-5 layers... it's just purely amazing stuff. I would have to go as far as to say on lighter colors especially it looks better than anything i've seen. IMO it looks better than the BFWD and i'm a big fan of that stuff.

    It's just so easy though ... just a little on the panel... wipe it with a mf towel until it disappears and that's it... not waiting to haze or anything. 1 bottle would easily do 30 cars. If you are light with your coatings then I would say 50.

    I haven't tried it yet but I've also heard good thing about it. Honestly, I have way too many products as it is and they just sit on the self now. I think I'm about done buy/trying new things for a while. Thanks though.

    Outside of a few coatings, I don't personally buy into the whole "layering" thing, at least not to the degree where it's leaving behind a "thicker" layer of product. Some crazy, and much smarter guys then me, along with some very expensive measure devices pretty much debunked the whole layering thing a while back in the UK.

    Thickness of wax layers? - Detailing World

    Wax and Sealant thicknesses - Detailing World

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    Quote Originally Posted by RaskyR1 View Post
    I haven't tried it yet but I've also heard good thing about it. Honestly, I have way too many products as it is and they just sit on the self now. I think I'm about done buy/trying new things for a while. Thanks though.

    Outside of a few coatings, I don't personally buy into the whole "layering" thing, at least not to the degree where it's leaving behind a "thicker" layer of product. Some crazy, and much smarter guys then me, along with some very expensive measure devices pretty much debunked the whole layering thing a while back in the UK.

    Thickness of wax layers? - Detailing World

    Wax and Sealant thicknesses - Detailing World

    Yeah, there has always been a big debate about the whole thing. With most waxes and sealants that will have some kind of cleaning effect to them I can see how that would be one of those things that people wouldn't believe. I wouldn't either. I don't go crazy on any car. With the AJT I have about 5 coats on our MS3, about 2 or 3 after I have the car washed or whatever i'm going to do to it, and then every other wash I would add a coat just to keep it fresh. Either way though if people want to go crazy and layer it's usually because they're OCD or have nothing better to do and hey, if they stumble onto something... that's cool too. Like we were saying earlier.. I would like to put some of the AJT on my WRX, but the more you touch a car, the more risk of marring.. it's just that simple. I'm looking for a REALLY good towel that I can apply the stuff with. One that has almost zero chance of marring the paint. Which one do you like?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Methodical4u View Post
    Thanks man. I'm not really to sure about the heat resistance that Opti-coat provides. Obviously an exhaust gets pretty hot. The only sealant that I know much about as far as heat goes would be FinishKare 1000p. It's good up to about 215 degrees... though I have read as high as 250. You could always apply a few coats of something like that every few months. I'd find out just how how the exhaust gets though.
    I sent them an e-mail. They said it's very heat resistant so it will work great for the exhaust. So, I figured why not apply it to my shinny new Q300..





    I didn't bother with the downpipe since it doesn't see much road grime and gets really hot. The Opti-Coat was very easy to work with and see the area's where it didn't flash yet on the exhaust compared to my silver car.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Methodical4u View Post
    Yeah, there has always been a big debate about the whole thing. With most waxes and sealants that will have some kind of cleaning effect to them I can see how that would be one of those things that people wouldn't believe. I wouldn't either. I don't go crazy on any car. With the AJT I have about 5 coats on our MS3, about 2 or 3 after I have the car washed or whatever i'm going to do to it, and then every other wash I would add a coat just to keep it fresh. Either way though if people want to go crazy and layer it's usually because they're OCD or have nothing better to do and hey, if they stumble onto something... that's cool too. Like we were saying earlier.. I would like to put some of the AJT on my WRX, but the more you touch a car, the more risk of marring.. it's just that simple. I'm looking for a REALLY good towel that I can apply the stuff with. One that has almost zero chance of marring the paint. Which one do you like?
    The AJT really sounds a lot like Opti-Seal, UPGP, and the new BF Crystal Seal. For applying those I have just been using the MF applicators at DI and have never noticed any marring to date. If you're waxing/sealing indoors, the risk of marring should be very minimal as long as your media is of high quality and free of debris. I would just stay away from most of the "off brand" applicators you see at Target, Wal-Mart, and auto part stores.

    BTW, the new Blackfire Crystal Seal is pretty nice too. Application is a snap just like the others and it seems to level off better then UPGP.


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