My new 2012 WRX prep and opti-coat - Page 3
+ Reply to Thread
Page 3 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast
Results 31 to 45 of 79

This is a discussion on My new 2012 WRX prep and opti-coat within the Detailing Forum forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Alright so here's what I plan to do - please call me on any of this if it's stupid!! (You're ...

  1. #31
    Registered User etnpnys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    756
    Alright so here's what I plan to do - please call me on any of this if it's stupid!! (You're the detailer and I'm just Joe Schmoe!)
    1. wash the car with my Armor All car wash and new microfiber mitt
    2. dry the car with a microfiber drying cloth
    3. IPA according to your directions - everything that I plan to OptiCoat (probably just the paint and lights)
    4. once all of that dries, apply the OptiCoat to everything that I want to
    5. use a bright flashlight to make sure that I don't see any areas that need more coverage and apply as necessary
    6. it'll be tacky at first - let dry overnight


    RE: #5 above - what exactly am I looking for? Spots that aren't foggy? Spots that ARE foggy? Spots that are still dry? Spots that have an uneven level to the areas around them?

    RE: #7 above - how many hours REALLY? If I finish this around 10pm, when is safe to drive the car?

    For ongoing maintenance, I'm probably only going to do #1 & #2 above for a few years and then hit it again with the OptiCoat.

    Am I playing right?

    Update: I placed the order for the OptiCoat last night. You convinced me. (And your video helped me to understand it a little bit)
    Last edited by etnpnys; 04-17-2012 at 09:37 AM.
    "Ah, it is the fault of our science that it wants to explain all; and if it explain not, then it says there is nothing to explain."
    -Van Helsing, from Bram Stoker's ​Dracula

  2. Remove Advertisements
    ClubWRX.net
    Advertisements
     

  3. #32
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Md
    Posts
    1,071
    Quote Originally Posted by etnpnys View Post
    Alright so here's what I plan to do - please call me on any of this if it's stupid!! (You're the detailer and I'm just Joe Schmoe!)
    1. wash the car with my Armor All car wash and new microfiber mitt
    2. dry the car with a microfiber drying cloth
    3. IPA according to your directions - everything that I plan to OptiCoat (probably just the paint and lights)
    4. once all of that dries, apply the OptiCoat to everything that I want to
    5. use a bright flashlight to make sure that I don't see any areas that need more coverage and apply as necessary
    6. it'll be tacky at first - let dry overnight


    RE: #5 above - what exactly am I looking for? Spots that aren't foggy? Spots that ARE foggy? Spots that are still dry? Spots that have an uneven level to the areas around them?

    RE: #7 above - how many hours REALLY? If I finish this around 10pm, when is safe to drive the car?

    For ongoing maintenance, I'm probably only going to do #1 & #2 above for a few years and then hit it again with the OptiCoat.

    Am I playing right?

    Update: I placed the order for the OptiCoat last night. You convinced me. (And your video helped me to understand it a little bit)
    What happens is when you apply the OC, sometimes you get a high spot... what you will be looking for is all areas that have flashed and cannot be seen.. if those areas that still look wet are still there after a minute or so... they have to much product. Less is more with this stuff. 10-15 cc's of this should easily do your whole car once the pad is prepped. Do one panel at a time and inspect it from all angles to make sure that you don't have high spots. You just then lightly wipe across the paint to make sure any high spots are knocked down. That's really it.

    I would just let it dry overnight. It will actually continue to cure for several days or weeks and then more it's in the sun the faster that will happen and the harder the finish gets. Don't expect a slick finish though... it's not slick, but beads water very very well so don't be alarmed. It basically will feel like your clean dishes... squeaky clean. Washing? Well really a good power washing will pretty much get anything off of the car that may have gotten on it. Even a strong pressure water hose for that matter. Just make sure that the IPA wipedown is done well and then don't touch the paint after that... any oils or anything on the car and it will not stick. I may go as far to say you can wash the car with dish soap which I would never recommend except for doing this... as it will remove most of the oils and such right from the get go. To much of this of course would dry out seals and such on the outside of the car.... so don't do it often if at all anymore.

    Make an x across the pad to "prime" the pad and I would start with the hood... do half or all if you feel comfortable.. I do circular and then straight as you saw in my video just to assure all areas are covered. Just take your time and you will be fine. Phil from Detailers Domain doesn't suggest washing the car for 7 days after, but if it gets wet, it's not a big deal and doesn't matter. So don't sweat it.

    I also cleaned all areas under the car where the side skirts are ... after cleaning them obviously getting rid of all dirt, tar, etc. I also did the lower door jam area where your feet hit sometimes as your get out of the car.

    You will be quite happy with the results of how this stuff works IMO.

  4. #33
    Registered User peekeesh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    67
    @etnpnys, so you ended up getting OC as well. that's great! By the way, this thread right here is the one that get me started researching opti-coat. Thanks to Methodical4u for creating this thread.

  5. #34
    Registered User etnpnys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    756
    Awesome, guys. I wish I could give you more reputation but you've soaked up all I can give right now.

    So if I understand correctly, "flashing" is basically when the stuff has disappeared, yeah? And like you said, the high spots will not have disappeared with the rest.

    Seriously: kudos. I appreciate it immensely. I'm gonna take the wife's RX330 to a detail shop to have them buff/polish and apply some touch-up paint and color sanding in a few areas, and then I'll take it home and hit it with this stuff also.
    "Ah, it is the fault of our science that it wants to explain all; and if it explain not, then it says there is nothing to explain."
    -Van Helsing, from Bram Stoker's ​Dracula

  6. #35
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Md
    Posts
    1,071
    Quote Originally Posted by peekeesh View Post
    @etnpnys, so you ended up getting OC as well. that's great! By the way, this thread right here is the one that get me started researching opti-coat. Thanks to Methodical4u for creating this thread.
    Oh no problem man... glad it gave people some insight. I like when I can help someone out from my own experience instead of someone who is just trying to sell you some product they get paid to sell, but really have no clue about how it works, if it works, etc etc.

    Trust me... I was VERY apprehensive about using this, but the more I read about it, asked questions, etc. The more I learned it was the best thing for my car, though detailing is a hobby I greatly enjoy, I will just have to enjoy polishing other peoples cars for the next few years lol.

  7. #36
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Md
    Posts
    1,071
    Quote Originally Posted by etnpnys View Post
    Awesome, guys. I wish I could give you more reputation but you've soaked up all I can give right now.

    So if I understand correctly, "flashing" is basically when the stuff has disappeared, yeah? And like you said, the high spots will not have disappeared with the rest.

    Seriously: kudos. I appreciate it immensely. I'm gonna take the wife's RX330 to a detail shop to have them buff/polish and apply some touch-up paint and color sanding in a few areas, and then I'll take it home and hit it with this stuff also.

    Yes, you are correct on your questions. With the touch up paint it might be a good idea to hold off on those few areas and OC the rest of the car. That new paint will need to cure for a little while, but just keep the lid on the OC and in a stable temperature in the bag it comes with and just clean that area and use the OC on it then. No problem with that.

  8. #37
    Registered User etnpnys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    756
    So I just got off the phone with the dealership and requested that they don't touch the paint when the car comes in.

    Now, let's just say that the message doesn't get to the prep guys and they do the whole PDI with buffing and blahblahblah. Will the IPA take off whatever crap they put on the car?
    "Ah, it is the fault of our science that it wants to explain all; and if it explain not, then it says there is nothing to explain."
    -Van Helsing, from Bram Stoker's ​Dracula

  9. #38
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Md
    Posts
    1,071
    Quote Originally Posted by etnpnys View Post
    So I just got off the phone with the dealership and requested that they don't touch the paint when the car comes in.

    Now, let's just say that the message doesn't get to the prep guys and they do the whole PDI with buffing and blahblahblah. Will the IPA take off whatever crap they put on the car?
    They aren't going to buff it... they're retards at dealerships and just do a ****ty job of washing and waxing it and getting it out of there. An IPA wipedown will most likely remove any type of wax that they apply. I would request again that they leave the car alone. The PDI stuff may leave a little bit of residue behind anyway, wash the car in some dawn first to get most of the oils and any wax that they might have put on the car. If you spray it and it doesn't bead or the beads are uneven and don't look uniform at all then you most likely have gotten it all off. Wash with dawn... dry very gently, making sure you rinse your drying towel between each panel to ensure no grit has gotten on it, and then IPA it with those 2 or so drops of soap and dry again. You can soak the panels one at a time and let them sit for 2 or 3 minutes just to make extra sure as well. Try to use a good drying towel (different from the one you use to dry your car) and dry each panel with a different section of the towel... don't be afraid to use 3, 4 or even 5 towels. Dry well inside of your gas cap area, under the mirrors... wait overnight and make sure no drips are present anywhere. You don't want water getting on you OC applicator.

  10. #39
    Registered User teddy37's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Garrett County Maryland
    Posts
    147
    Thats probably the cleanest car i have ever seen. Very nice work. Im sure the car is very happy ha
    2011 Wrx DGM TP Stage 3
    Stink-eye mob #3737

  11. #40
    Registered User etnpnys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    756
    Quote Originally Posted by Methodical4u View Post
    They aren't going to buff it... they're retards at dealerships and just do a ****ty job of washing and waxing it and getting it out of there. An IPA wipedown will most likely remove any type of wax that they apply. I would request again that they leave the car alone. The PDI stuff may leave a little bit of residue behind anyway, wash the car in some dawn first to get most of the oils and any wax that they might have put on the car. If you spray it and it doesn't bead or the beads are uneven and don't look uniform at all then you most likely have gotten it all off. Wash with dawn... dry very gently, making sure you rinse your drying towel between each panel to ensure no grit has gotten on it, and then IPA it with those 2 or so drops of soap and dry again. You can soak the panels one at a time and let them sit for 2 or 3 minutes just to make extra sure as well. Try to use a good drying towel (different from the one you use to dry your car) and dry each panel with a different section of the towel... don't be afraid to use 3, 4 or even 5 towels. Dry well inside of your gas cap area, under the mirrors... wait overnight and make sure no drips are present anywhere. You don't want water getting on you OC applicator.
    Dude I think I only *have* one good towel for drying cars! lol

    So what am I supposed to wipe down the IPA with? Should I go get a few more towels/MF drying cloths or what? I'll probably blow dry it with a leaf blower or something after the wash, but then I don't know how I'm going to remove the IPA from the panels...
    "Ah, it is the fault of our science that it wants to explain all; and if it explain not, then it says there is nothing to explain."
    -Van Helsing, from Bram Stoker's ​Dracula

  12. #41
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Md
    Posts
    1,071
    Quote Originally Posted by etnpnys View Post
    Dude I think I only *have* one good towel for drying cars! lol

    So what am I supposed to wipe down the IPA with? Should I go get a few more towels/MF drying cloths or what? I'll probably blow dry it with a leaf blower or something after the wash, but then I don't know how I'm going to remove the IPA from the panels...
    I have used the cheaper MF towels that are OTS. If you get them while they are clean and don't drop them on the ground, they will do fine. I wouldn't make a habit. Also, check the stitching around the outside of the towel. If it feels pretty rough.. just cut it off as well as the tag if there is any.

  13. #42
    Registered User etnpnys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    756
    Quote Originally Posted by Methodical4u View Post
    I have used the cheaper MF towels that are OTS. If you get them while they are clean and don't drop them on the ground, they will do fine. I wouldn't make a habit. Also, check the stitching around the outside of the towel. If it feels pretty rough.. just cut it off as well as the tag if there is any.
    Got it. I think. I just picked up some detailing ... well, rags I guess... Theyr'e 2 ply cotton and feel like an old T-Shirt, even though the tag said they were micro fiber. Must be MICRO micro fiber.

    Anyway, so I'll wash the car with my new mitt. Leaf blow the heck out of it. Then pull it into the garage and spray the IPA all over it, let a panel sit for about 5 minutes and wipe it off with one of these rags. Once the whole car is absent of all IPA, I'll start wiping on the OC according to directions. Then I'll let it sit overnight and drive it on Sunday morning (maybe).

    Sound right?
    "Ah, it is the fault of our science that it wants to explain all; and if it explain not, then it says there is nothing to explain."
    -Van Helsing, from Bram Stoker's ​Dracula

  14. #43
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Md
    Posts
    1,071
    Quote Originally Posted by etnpnys View Post
    Got it. I think. I just picked up some detailing ... well, rags I guess... Theyr'e 2 ply cotton and feel like an old T-Shirt, even though the tag said they were micro fiber. Must be MICRO micro fiber.

    Anyway, so I'll wash the car with my new mitt. Leaf blow the heck out of it. Then pull it into the garage and spray the IPA all over it, let a panel sit for about 5 minutes and wipe it off with one of these rags. Once the whole car is absent of all IPA, I'll start wiping on the OC according to directions. Then I'll let it sit overnight and drive it on Sunday morning (maybe).

    Sound right?
    Yeah, I think you got it about right... the only thing is that you don't want to use any cotton towels. Make sure they are microfiber. Get a pack of them at walmart or something.

  15. #44
    Registered User etnpnys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    756
    Thanx a bunch - again. I got your above response just in time - while the windows were being tinted on Saturday we actually walked across the street to a Walmart and picked up a pair of MF detailing towels.

    Then, Saturday late afternoon I washed it, leaf blowed it and dried it, and then let it sit for a few hours until the kids were in bed. I went out and IPA'ed it (which was actually A LOT easier than I thought it was going to be...) and then applied the OptiCoat.

    So, the job is done now - yay! - but how do I even know that I did it right? The entire process is so invisible that I can't tell if I applied it thick enough or anything. I had very few spots that didn't flash after 5 minutes and I needed to go back over them. No big deal - and I found one this morning that looks like it didn't flash and I missed it - I guess I'll fix that in a few years. lol

    So my post-process questions are:
    1. How do I know I put it on there thick enough?
    2. How do I know when I'm going to need to do it again in a few years? (And what does THAT process look like?)
    "Ah, it is the fault of our science that it wants to explain all; and if it explain not, then it says there is nothing to explain."
    -Van Helsing, from Bram Stoker's ​Dracula

  16. #45
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Md
    Posts
    1,071
    Quote Originally Posted by etnpnys View Post
    Thanx a bunch - again. I got your above response just in time - while the windows were being tinted on Saturday we actually walked across the street to a Walmart and picked up a pair of MF detailing towels.

    Then, Saturday late afternoon I washed it, leaf blowed it and dried it, and then let it sit for a few hours until the kids were in bed. I went out and IPA'ed it (which was actually A LOT easier than I thought it was going to be...) and then applied the OptiCoat.

    So, the job is done now - yay! - but how do I even know that I did it right? The entire process is so invisible that I can't tell if I applied it thick enough or anything. I had very few spots that didn't flash after 5 minutes and I needed to go back over them. No big deal - and I found one this morning that looks like it didn't flash and I missed it - I guess I'll fix that in a few years. lol

    So my post-process questions are:
    1. How do I know I put it on there thick enough?
    2. How do I know when I'm going to need to do it again in a few years? (And what does THAT process look like?)

    There really isn't a to thin... if you watched the whole panel get coated and flashed, that's enough. To thick obviously just looks like to much. Keep in mind this stuff continues to harden for a while after you have applied it. When you can... leave it in the sun to cure, it cures it faster for obvious reasons. The high spot can easily be buffed out and that section reapplied.

    You will know when it needs more coverage in a few years because you will become familiar with the beading on your car and how it looks. When then beading starts to become uneven, or just doesn't look the same as it used to, that's when you'll know. At that point you can get someone or yourself to polish that top layer off and then just do the same thing again.

    After a week or 2 don't expect this stuff to be slick feeling... actually it's always best not to touch your paint with anything since everything at least slightly mars it. Remember that this stuff is a protectant more than for looks... though it doesn't look bad by any means IMO. You CAN coat it with wax or whatever you would like... it just won't last long. Mine just feels like a dish i've just washed with dish soap. Very just squeaky clean.

    It will be quite a while before you have to do it again and Optimum will probably have a removal method by then other than polishing anyway.

    I think you'll be quite impressed with the results. Try not to wash for 7 days ... getting it wet won't matter however. I was just told as a safety thing to wait for 7 days.

    Once you feel brave enough, I would go over your mirrors and all the plastic around the windows, the pillars between the windows... everything except the rubber trim. Where I am the water spots mean a pain to remove if they get etched into the plastic.

+ Reply to Thread
Page 3 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast

Quick Reply Quick Reply

Register Now

Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Please enter a valid email address for yourself. We strongly suggest that you stay away from using aol, yahoo, msn, and hotmail accounts. Sometimes the mail server blocks the emails from our server. As a result you will not receive any notifications including the confirmation email.

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •