My new 2012 WRX prep and opti-coat - Page 2
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This is a discussion on My new 2012 WRX prep and opti-coat within the Detailing Forum forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Holy heck. You guys have my head spinning after reading this thread. BFWD, OC, UPGP, BFCS, AJT, FinishKare 1000P, Trigger, ...

  1. #16
    Registered User etnpnys's Avatar
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    Holy heck. You guys have my head spinning after reading this thread. BFWD, OC, UPGP, BFCS, AJT, FinishKare 1000P, Trigger, QD, MF, WerkStat, BlackFire Crystal...

    I'm no waxing/detailing/cleaning freak so I don't understand any of this madness. I know that I waxed my last car probably once with some mirror product (I think) over the 9 years that I had it. My wife's RX330 needs to be waxed also - and it's never been waxed by us over 50k miles. I hopefully get my WRX today and I'll be looking to do something to it in a few weeks.

    What would you recommend a normal person with a LOT of other chores on the weekend do to keep things looking good? We have two little sons (2 & 4) that play in the garage, too, so the cars are inevitably going to have fingerprints on them constantly - I'm harboring no delusions of keeping show-quality cars sleeping in the garage at all times. These are daily drivers that get normal abuse from people with kids. And I don't have all weekend to do a quarter panel.

    Wash (we have soft water), dry, then ... ... clay bar? wax? Trigger? Send it to you guys so that you can do something elaborate? I figured I'd ask while both of you two were in the same thread.
    "Ah, it is the fault of our science that it wants to explain all; and if it explain not, then it says there is nothing to explain."
    -Van Helsing, from Bram Stoker's ​Dracula

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by etnpnys View Post
    Holy heck. You guys have my head spinning after reading this thread. BFWD, OC, UPGP, BFCS, AJT, FinishKare 1000P, Trigger, QD, MF, WerkStat, BlackFire Crystal...

    I'm no waxing/detailing/cleaning freak so I don't understand any of this madness. I know that I waxed my last car probably once with some mirror product (I think) over the 9 years that I had it. My wife's RX330 needs to be waxed also - and it's never been waxed by us over 50k miles. I hopefully get my WRX today and I'll be looking to do something to it in a few weeks.

    What would you recommend a normal person with a LOT of other chores on the weekend do to keep things looking good? We have two little sons (2 & 4) that play in the garage, too, so the cars are inevitably going to have fingerprints on them constantly - I'm harboring no delusions of keeping show-quality cars sleeping in the garage at all times. These are daily drivers that get normal abuse from people with kids. And I don't have all weekend to do a quarter panel.

    Wash (we have soft water), dry, then ... ... clay bar? wax? Trigger? Send it to you guys so that you can do something elaborate? I figured I'd ask while both of you two were in the same thread.

    Well hey, if you want to send it across the country to me i'll do a top notch job on it lol but there are plenty of people out there that would do a very good job.

    On a serious note however, of course a good car shampoo is important, you don't want anything to harsh because it will dry out your rubber seals around the doors, all of those seals that you don't see... plus if you do have any wax or sealant on the car, it will take it off within a few washes as opposed to a mild wash that doesn't strip it.

    A clay bar is used to get out embedded contaminants. The problem that if you aren't into the whole polishing thing, etc. is a clay bar can mar (slight scratches) your paint. If it's brand new sometimes you'll need it... sometimes you won't.

    It might be worth it for you to either get your car clear bra'd with having the little ones touching the car and and maybe running into it by accident. That would be the thickest way to go, but also the most expensive. The downside is that over time the film some say will start to yellow a bit.

    You're other option would be to have a detailer polish and prep the paint and apply OC (Opti-coat) the paint. Opti-coat is a bit like a second clearcoat. It's not nearly as thick, but it is quite a hard finish and does resist scratching much better than any standard wax or sealer. Plus you wouldn't have to have the added time of applying a wax/sealant on top of the OC. It's pretty much an apply and forget type of product. Very good that you also have soft water as well as that you also keep the car in the garage. All you would really need is a quality wash mitt, car shampoo and 2 buckets for your soapy water and clean water to rinse your wash mitt/sponge etc.

    We can help you if you want to do basic washes and waxes about which one might be best for you and your lifesyle if you choose to go that route.
    Last edited by Methodical4u; 04-14-2012 at 04:50 AM.

  4. #18
    Registered User etnpnys's Avatar
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    What shampoo would you recommend? I have a mitt right now and I believe the soap I'm using is Armor All something-or-other car wash.

    Perhaps I'll look into getting the car OC'ed professionally. You're saying that if I do that, I basically wouldn't need to wax it ...ever?
    "Ah, it is the fault of our science that it wants to explain all; and if it explain not, then it says there is nothing to explain."
    -Van Helsing, from Bram Stoker's ​Dracula

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    Quote Originally Posted by etnpnys View Post
    What shampoo would you recommend? I have a mitt right now and I believe the soap I'm using is Armor All something-or-other car wash.

    Perhaps I'll look into getting the car OC'ed professionally. You're saying that if I do that, I basically wouldn't need to wax it ...ever?
    It's called a permanent coating.. most say it's good for about 2 years. Yes, I am telling you that you would not have to wax it for that amount of time however. If you're car is garage kept and kept away from the elements you may get even longer than 2 years from it.

    Honestly, most people don't even actually wash their car with OC on it. A good powerwashing many times is all you need. There is nothing wrong with washing the car though. The shampoo you want to use isn't an extremely important thing. In all reality, you could likely get some Meguiars Gold class and use that. Many of the pro detailers I talk with swear by Griot's Garage car wash. It's a little expensive, but unlike the Megs or any other off the shelf brand a little goes a LONNNNG way. The GG shampoo is very slick which is what you want. I use adams right now which is nice stuff. I got mine from Detailers Domain ... they have better flat shipping rates. As far as a sponge goes... you can go to lowes and buy a proline grout sponge for a 1.50 or 2.00 each. Many detailers swear by them too... other's seem to want to get a more expensive mitt to feel good about their purchase I guess. IMO they expensive ones aren't needed. I would just do some reading on proper wash techniques and you'll be all set.

  6. #20
    Registered User etnpnys's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Methodical4u View Post
    It's called a permanent coating.. most say it's good for about 2 years.
    Oh - "2 years" isn't long enough for me to consider something "permanent." I'll probably be forgoing the OC at this point then and going with a normal wax or something. Unfortunately for me, it seems like there is about eleventy billion of them out there... is there a good wax that you would recommend? Maybe something that provides a little bit of protection also? Years ago out here there was a booth at the mall for some "mirror" car wax or something. They demoed it by trying to scratch it with a key or something. Gimmick?

    Quote Originally Posted by Methodical4u View Post
    other's seem to want to get a more expensive mitt to feel good about their purchase I guess.
    I'm about to order this one: Amazon.com: Meguiar's Microfiber Wash Mitt: Automotive .
    "Ah, it is the fault of our science that it wants to explain all; and if it explain not, then it says there is nothing to explain."
    -Van Helsing, from Bram Stoker's ​Dracula

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    IBIZ Products

    If you try this, you'll never want to use anything else:

    IBIZ Detailing Products, Inc DBA IBIZ, Inc. - Car Wax

    IBIZ Detailing Products, Inc DBA IBIZ, Inc. - Waterless Wash and Wax

    It isn't cheap and at 32 oz. it will last for many seasons.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ea126405 View Post
    If you try this, you'll never want to use anything else:

    IBIZ Detailing Products, Inc DBA IBIZ, Inc. - Car Wax

    IBIZ Detailing Products, Inc DBA IBIZ, Inc. - Waterless Wash and Wax

    It isn't cheap and at 32 oz. it will last for many seasons.
    Please don't come on my thread endorsing unknown and probably crap products.

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    Quote Originally Posted by etnpnys View Post
    Oh - "2 years" isn't long enough for me to consider something "permanent." I'll probably be forgoing the OC at this point then and going with a normal wax or something. Unfortunately for me, it seems like there is about eleventy billion of them out there... is there a good wax that you would recommend? Maybe something that provides a little bit of protection also? Years ago out here there was a booth at the mall for some "mirror" car wax or something. They demoed it by trying to scratch it with a key or something. Gimmick?



    I'm about to order this one: Amazon.com: Meguiar's Microfiber Wash Mitt: Automotive .

    On the OC, what you need to realize is that one coat of this stuff is about the thickness of 100 coats of standard wax. It helps to protect against scratches, UV rays, bird droppings... all of the stuff other products protect against. You also have to keep in mind that OC is 60.00 ... many good waxes out there are at least 30.00... grandted you can use more applications with them... but 2 years man? That's a long time IMO it's worth it.

    If you are against it however that's fine and there are many great products out there. Let me ask you a few things.

    1. What color is your car?
    2. A standard wax provides a warm and sort of natural glow... while a sealant provides a candy coating type of finish.. what do you like?
    3. How long do you expect the product to last? Do you mind waxing the car every few months?
    4. It's looks or durability your main concern?
    5. I see you're in SoCal... so I am guessing your car sees a lot of sun but not much rain? Is the car garage kept?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Methodical4u View Post
    Please don't come on my thread endorsing unknown and probably crap products.
    Sorry I stepped on your thread, my response was related to a subsequent post by etnpnys (as he sloooooowwwwwly backs away.....)

  11. #25
    Registered User etnpnys's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Methodical4u View Post
    On the OC, what you need to realize is that one coat of this stuff is about the thickness of 100 coats of standard wax. It helps to protect against scratches, UV rays, bird droppings... all of the stuff other products protect against. You also have to keep in mind that OC is 60.00 ... many good waxes out there are at least 30.00... grandted you can use more applications with them... but 2 years man? That's a long time IMO it's worth it.

    If you are against it however that's fine and there are many great products out there. Let me ask you a few things.

    1. What color is your car?
    2. A standard wax provides a warm and sort of natural glow... while a sealant provides a candy coating type of finish.. what do you like?
    3. How long do you expect the product to last? Do you mind waxing the car every few months?
    4. It's looks or durability your main concern?
    5. I see you're in SoCal... so I am guessing your car sees a lot of sun but not much rain? Is the car garage kept?
    I really appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions. It's going a long way to getting some direction on it.
    1. Dark Gray Metallic
    2. I honestly can't say that I understand the difference. I guess a candy coating would be preferable?
    3. I don't have any idea how long to expect it to last. And I don't have the time to wax my cars all the time, so I guess I was hoping a few years.
    4. Durability is the primary concern
    5. I am in SoCal, but I work like 6am - 2pm every day with about 3 hours total commute each day. The car is garaged at home and it's in a parking garage at work - so really, the only sun it sees is on the 1.5 hour drive home.

    Again, I am extremely grateful for your time. I'm not only asking regarding my WRX but the wife's Lexus RX330 also. It's dark gray also (and yes, I *do* know that they make cars in other colors ). Hers is the primary kid transporter, so it takes more abuse. It already has a sizable scratch on the psgr side that needs touch up paint, and some boxes fell on it at our old place in the garage (crappy wall shelves) that scuffed it nicely also. Then there's the normal scratches/scuffs from keys dangling and hitting it.
    "Ah, it is the fault of our science that it wants to explain all; and if it explain not, then it says there is nothing to explain."
    -Van Helsing, from Bram Stoker's ​Dracula

  12. #26
    Registered User etnpnys's Avatar
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    You're also posting in my other thread. I'll leave this one alone and let you discuss with me in the other one. Good?
    "Ah, it is the fault of our science that it wants to explain all; and if it explain not, then it says there is nothing to explain."
    -Van Helsing, from Bram Stoker's ​Dracula

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    Quote Originally Posted by etnpnys View Post
    I really appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions. It's going a long way to getting some direction on it.
    1. Dark Gray Metallic
    2. I honestly can't say that I understand the difference. I guess a candy coating would be preferable?
    3. I don't have any idea how long to expect it to last. And I don't have the time to wax my cars all the time, so I guess I was hoping a few years.
    4. Durability is the primary concern
    5. I am in SoCal, but I work like 6am - 2pm every day with about 3 hours total commute each day. The car is garaged at home and it's in a parking garage at work - so really, the only sun it sees is on the 1.5 hour drive home.

    Again, I am extremely grateful for your time. I'm not only asking regarding my WRX but the wife's Lexus RX330 also. It's dark gray also (and yes, I *do* know that they make cars in other colors ). Hers is the primary kid transporter, so it takes more abuse. It already has a sizable scratch on the psgr side that needs touch up paint, and some boxes fell on it at our old place in the garage (crappy wall shelves) that scuffed it nicely also. Then there's the normal scratches/scuffs from keys dangling and hitting it.
    Ok, first understand the difference between a wax and a sealant. They do the same thing. A wax comes from the jungle and protects leaves from heat. However... heat is the enemy of any type of car protection. Pure wax is impossible and as my thread on detailing tips states... pure wax is as hard as a brick, so anything that says 100% pure caranuba wax is a flat LIE! You'd never even get it on the pad if that were true.

    A sealer is a man made protection and is made with polymers, synthetics, all sorts of stuff.

    Based on what you have told me ... a good detail and OC would definitely be my first choice, however.. I will give you some of the waxes and sealants many claim to be more durable in no particular order.

    Duragloss 105... very cheap, I have found easy to apply and remove. Has some cleaners in it so it will take off small amounts of tar and such if they happen to be present on your paint. I can go to my local parts store and get it for about 10.00 a bottle. Give or take a bit. I like it a lot.

    Finish Kare 1000p. Heat resistant up to 215-250 degrees. Pretty long lasting. Also has mild cleaners. Not to expensive. It's actually a boat wax... however it is still considered a sealant. Very nice product.

    Werkstat acrylic jett trigger. This is one of my favorites because of it's ease of use. It's slick and sheds water well. You spray it on ... 1 spray per panel is plenty.. you then wipe it until it disappears and that's it. It REALLY brings out flake more than any product I have ever seen 16.00 a bottle. 1 bottle will give you 30-50 applications. It cures in 30 minutes vs 24 that others take. I like it because after I wash and dry I can just go right over the car with it and it takes about 10 minutes. It safely goes over the plastic trim or rubber and doesn't stain. It is also heat resistant.

    Collinite 476s. Very good reviews ... again this is also a boat wax. I have not personally used it, but I do know most compare it to the Finish Kare. It's durability is pretty long. I think it can be a bit hard to remove (some have said anyway) but I don't know personally. Not to expensive either, you can probably go to your local marine store and pick some up. They also make an insulator wax (845) that many like.

    Klasse: a very top notch sealant, it is also long lasting and a hard finish once cured. They have an all in one and then their standard sealer. I am speaking of the standard sealer. Can also be a bit difficult to remove, and a little more pricey than some of the others.

    Any of these choices above are excellent IMO. Stay away from the off the shelf waxes (save for the Duragloss) as they aren't long lasting and are just cheap product in fancy bottles.

  14. #28
    Registered User etnpnys's Avatar
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    Good grief - and I thought my wife had trouble making decisions: I think I'm just gonna get the OC.

    Only available from Autogeek? On a brand new car is there any product I should use prior to applying?
    "Ah, it is the fault of our science that it wants to explain all; and if it explain not, then it says there is nothing to explain."
    -Van Helsing, from Bram Stoker's ​Dracula

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    One more endorsement of Duragloss 105 TPP here. My brother and I have been detailing a long time and tested out just about every fad product on the market and keep coming back to DG products. Their easy availability, lost cost and great performance are hard to beat. Some of the top shelf products might outperform DG but only by a small margin.
    My favorite Duragloss product, by far, is the 951 AquaWax spray. Great for this time of year, when the car isn't dirty, just has some pollen dust on it. The small amount of sealant in it helps keep up the protection.

    I've been itching to try Opti-Coat 2.0, though!

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    Well, you can apply it yourself. The car should be prepped by polishing it with a fine polish, I would look the car over very well in the light. Opti-coat can be applied like any wax, but you have to be at the correct angle to see it going on since it's clear, so get a good lighting. All tar, bugs and other imperfections you see need to be removed because once opti-coat is on... it will only come off with sanding, certain chemicals, or polishing. You can apply it to all outside plastic, some apply it to their glass as well.. I stay away from the glass personally and just use rain-x.

    Once the car is as you like it, get a windex sized bottle, some distilled water and dish soap. Mix your alcohol 50/50 and use 1-2 drops of soap. Spray each panel and wipe it down. This is called an IPA wipedown. It gets any oils or other stuff off of the paint. Use that on any plastic you want to treat, around the windows... the pillars between the front and rear windows... etc.

    No, autogeek is only one place of many. I would go to DetailersDomanin.com and use promo code evom for a 10% discount ... that should help with shipping at least. It's 60.00 there.

    Here is a video that I posted on application, I would encourage you to watch ALL the videos you can though. Opti-coat application on subaru wrx - YouTube

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