Sealant stuff
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This is a discussion on Sealant stuff within the Detailing Forum forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; SamXP: Freshly polished paint, with zero LSP (last surface protectant) will bead better than anything. It has more to do ...

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    Registered User Heide264's Avatar
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    Sealant stuff

    SamXP: Freshly polished paint, with zero LSP (last surface protectant) will bead better than anything. It has more to do with surface tension due to flat geometry than any chemical reason. So if you wash the car four weeks after application of sealant, it won't get glassy?
    If not, then either its not really clean (use a detailing spray, my favorite is Duragloss 921 Fast Clean & Shine, which also has a tiny bit of sealant to "top it off" so to speak) or the sealant didn't adhere properly. If the surface has any oils, road tar, previous waxes, etc. they could prevent the sealant from adhering. Best way to promote adhesion is to polish, but you could also use Prepsol to chemically strip everything on the clear coat and prepare for the polymers to bind directly.

    Sorry to threadjack, but I can't help myself.
    Okay, so say I go to one of those cheapo automated pay/spray. Those are normally where I keep an eye out for the beading to reduce (the hood scoop area, due to the heat, would be the first to lose the sealant I would guess). I have a hard time gauging gloss, but its not as mirror like as when I first 'sealed' it. The water still beads pretty well though, as if it was sealed.

    Should the gloss be hand and hand with the beading? Or does one typically wear off before the other?

    I don't have a random orbital, but I am debating getting one. My dad and I might split it if I offer to do the other cars in our house.
    Quote Originally Posted by Trainrex
    He was throwing balloons filled with sulfuric acid and shrapnel at the swat team. They finally had to take him down with rubber bullets.
    2011 STi Build Log
    -Part 1 - Reading, Data Logging, and Analyzing Data
    -Part 2 - Turbocharger 101 & Basic Boost Control
    -Part 3 - EcuFlash, Experimental Defintions, and a Drive By Wire Intro

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    Registered User SamXp's Avatar
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    I use the pay n spray places myself when time is limited and I want to knock the heavy dirt off. But it never gets it completely clean. Mechanical removal is the best way to get it really clean. This is not to say the sealant isn't still there, though. It may be that the microscopic residue left behind is reducing beading. A proper hand wash using the "two bucket system" is going to get it really clean. I'll often do an ONR wash (Optimum No Rinse) shortly after a Pay n Spray to get the residue off. If it looks pretty clean, though, a detailing spray will have adequate lubricity to protect the paint from scratches and swirls and let you get the remaining residue off. Plus, you can add a little sealant to replace what has been lost since the last wash.

    I detail cars occasionally (not as much as I used to, mostly only do interesting cars for friends or family) and I've yet to detail the WRX because with the thin Clear Coat, you really don't want to remove much material. I picked up some SurBuf pads, which are supposed to do great correction in one step on a DA machine with only negligible cc removal.

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    Registered User Heide264's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SamXp View Post
    I use the pay n spray places myself when time is limited and I want to knock the heavy dirt off. But it never gets it completely clean. Mechanical removal is the best way to get it really clean. This is not to say the sealant isn't still there, though. It may be that the microscopic residue left behind is reducing beading. A proper hand wash using the "two bucket system" is going to get it really clean. I'll often do an ONR wash (Optimum No Rinse) shortly after a Pay n Spray to get the residue off. If it looks pretty clean, though, a detailing spray will have adequate lubricity to protect the paint from scratches and swirls and let you get the remaining residue off. Plus, you can add a little sealant to replace what has been lost since the last wash.

    I detail cars occasionally (not as much as I used to, mostly only do interesting cars for friends or family) and I've yet to detail the WRX because with the thin Clear Coat, you really don't want to remove much material. I picked up some SurBuf pads, which are supposed to do great correction in one step on a DA machine with only negligible cc removal.
    Gotcha. I used to do ONR washes a lot with a two bucket method, but I started running a bit short on time with my work weeks. Also, I try to keep my hands off of it as much as possible... Even with good towels the paint on mine seems to mar like crazy. I do need to do a good wipe down and get a new coat on it though.

    I have a really, really fine polish - Menzerna Final Polish I think. It's not the harsher one used to get maring out, its really just a finishing polish. I went over it by hand last time, but I don't think I did any good with it. I think it really needs the rpm's to break it down a bit... even if it is a very light polish.

    Would you recommend doing a hand polish of it? Or just do a prepsol routine. It's been a few months since it's had any attention =/.

    EDIT: Bare in mind, my car is parked under a several story tall oak tree a lot of the time. Probably somewhere between 5-8 stories or so. It takes a whopping 6 hours normally to 'crapify'.
    Quote Originally Posted by Trainrex
    He was throwing balloons filled with sulfuric acid and shrapnel at the swat team. They finally had to take him down with rubber bullets.
    2011 STi Build Log
    -Part 1 - Reading, Data Logging, and Analyzing Data
    -Part 2 - Turbocharger 101 & Basic Boost Control
    -Part 3 - EcuFlash, Experimental Defintions, and a Drive By Wire Intro

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    Registered User SamXp's Avatar
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    I wouldn't hand apply Menzerna FP. You'll get too much marring. A DA machine will do a much better job without removing a lot of material. Prepsol is safe because you just apply, dissolve, wipe off.
    So you're getting a lot of sap from the Oak? Acorns? Ought to invest in a carport!

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    Registered User Heide264's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SamXp View Post
    I wouldn't hand apply Menzerna FP. You'll get too much marring. A DA machine will do a much better job without removing a lot of material. Prepsol is safe because you just apply, dissolve, wipe off.
    So you're getting a lot of sap from the Oak? Acorns? Ought to invest in a carport!
    Sounds good. I think if I get a machine, I will just get the Griot's 6" random orbital so I can use it on other cars that are a bit older and could benefit from a mid level polish. Until then, I will just use prepsol in the future.

    Any use in clay barring the whole car? I've been hesitant to, and I just use it to get off stubborn bugs/bird remains after a wash that don't wipe right off. I don't want to cause any extra marring.

    A carport, my friend, is an awesome idea. If parentally approved (Still bumming in with the folks), it would also make winter a heck of a lot easier. That was a smack in the back of my head for how much of a pain it is to fight that tree. By the way, the acrons have nothing on all the annoying pollen strips that fall. They ALWAYS get stuck under your wipers, so you have this one obnoxious streak until you remember to pick them out when you get out of the car. Not something you normally want to do when you are using your wipers.
    Quote Originally Posted by Trainrex
    He was throwing balloons filled with sulfuric acid and shrapnel at the swat team. They finally had to take him down with rubber bullets.
    2011 STi Build Log
    -Part 1 - Reading, Data Logging, and Analyzing Data
    -Part 2 - Turbocharger 101 & Basic Boost Control
    -Part 3 - EcuFlash, Experimental Defintions, and a Drive By Wire Intro

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    Registered User SamXp's Avatar
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    I only clay directly before polishing, to eliminate any residue that could foul the polishing pad and causing micromarring. Other than that, it does a fairly poor job compared to Prepsol at adhesion promotion.

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    Registered User Heide264's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SamXp View Post
    I only clay directly before polishing, to eliminate any residue that could foul the polishing pad and causing micromarring. Other than that, it does a fairly poor job compared to Prepsol at adhesion promotion.
    Does the Prep-All or whatever the generic Walmart product is work well?
    Quote Originally Posted by Trainrex
    He was throwing balloons filled with sulfuric acid and shrapnel at the swat team. They finally had to take him down with rubber bullets.
    2011 STi Build Log
    -Part 1 - Reading, Data Logging, and Analyzing Data
    -Part 2 - Turbocharger 101 & Basic Boost Control
    -Part 3 - EcuFlash, Experimental Defintions, and a Drive By Wire Intro

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    Registered User SamXp's Avatar
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    Yeah there are lots of names. Prep-All works the same. Just get it in the bottle rather than aerosol can. Pour on, wipe off. Don't let it dry (it dries fast!) or the dissolved residue will dry and coat the paint, reducing adhesion.

  10. #9
    Registered User Heide264's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SamXp View Post
    Yeah there are lots of names. Prep-All works the same. Just get it in the bottle rather than aerosol can. Pour on, wipe off. Don't let it dry (it dries fast!) or the dissolved residue will dry and coat the paint, reducing adhesion.
    Pour on? Not wipe on? I'll take your word on it, just an odd one. I'm assuming it is very similar to mineral spirits. I don't know when I'll have time to do my next detail, hopefully soon. My father actually seemed very interested in the random orbital deal where I am their detailing slave for one round and they pick up the tool. I think both parties win.
    Quote Originally Posted by Trainrex
    He was throwing balloons filled with sulfuric acid and shrapnel at the swat team. They finally had to take him down with rubber bullets.
    2011 STi Build Log
    -Part 1 - Reading, Data Logging, and Analyzing Data
    -Part 2 - Turbocharger 101 & Basic Boost Control
    -Part 3 - EcuFlash, Experimental Defintions, and a Drive By Wire Intro

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