Detailed today WRX WR Blue Mica
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This is a discussion on Detailed today WRX WR Blue Mica within the Detailing Forum forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Here is a couple of shots of my detailed WRX. Haven't been clean for a few weeks so I got ...

  1. #1
    Registered User 11wrxwagon's Avatar
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    Detailed today WRX WR Blue Mica

    Here is a couple of shots of my detailed WRX. Haven't been clean for a few weeks so I got up a little early before work and cleaned her up. I got a new car cover for it also . Garage is filled with crap haha.

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  3. #2
    Registered User 2011RX's Avatar
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    Not a fan of the exhaust, but the car overall looks great!
    2011 WRX DGM Sedan

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    Garage full of crap huh? Makes sense, $30,000 car outside, crap inside.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2011RX View Post
    Not a fan of the exhaust, but the car overall looks great!
    I got it for the sound. It's the invidia street exhaust. I had to get it cut and re welded it started burning a hole in my bumber kinda sucks. I'm gonna have to get my bumber replaced.
    Stage 1 WRX=Fun car.
    2001 Dodge Stratus R/T=Driving to work car.

    Invidia street exhaust\AEM Intake\Cobb access port flashed to stage 1 +AEM intake. Estimated 294hp/353ft lbs of torque

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    Registered User Heide264's Avatar
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    Looks good!

    I finally busted out most of my detailing kit last night since I am working evenings today and could sleep in. ONR, (skipped the clay since it was fairly smooth), Menzerna Final Polish, and some BlackFire Wet Diamond. That sealant is just amazing.
    Quote Originally Posted by Trainrex
    He was throwing balloons filled with sulfuric acid and shrapnel at the swat team. They finally had to take him down with rubber bullets.
    2011 STi Build Log
    -Part 1 - Reading, Data Logging, and Analyzing Data
    -Part 2 - Turbocharger 101 & Basic Boost Control
    -Part 3 - EcuFlash, Experimental Defintions, and a Drive By Wire Intro

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    Registered User SamXp's Avatar
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    Even if there aren't any raised deposits you can feel, it's still a good idea to use a mild clay to help remove previous buildup of wax, grime, etc.
    Better yet, to avoid dragging a clay bar across the surface that might introduce swirls, use Prepsol before applying a sealant or wax. It's what body shops use before they paint, to remove oils, contaminants, wax buildup, road grime, etc. It promotes adhesion with either a sealant or wax and provides longer lasting protection.

  8. #7
    Registered User Heide264's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SamXp View Post
    Even if there aren't any raised deposits you can feel, it's still a good idea to use a mild clay to help remove previous buildup of wax, grime, etc.
    Better yet, to avoid dragging a clay bar across the surface that might introduce swirls, use Prepsol before applying a sealant or wax. It's what body shops use before they paint, to remove oils, contaminants, wax buildup, road grime, etc. It promotes adhesion with either a sealant or wax and provides longer lasting protection.
    I thought about it, but it was already 9:30pm when I started washing it off. I didn't finish up with the BF until about 12:30am or so. I think I need to get something to use after polishing to remove oils before adding the sealant, that was my biggest issue. I don't have any experience with clay bars, and the polish I have is not strong enough to remove maring (especially by hand), so I wanted to avoid doing more harm than good with the clay. I will probably give it a go next time around.

    I will look into the Prepsol stuff. I am imagine it would be better to use after the polish, not before. The polish doesn't much care what's under it as long as its fairly clean, correct?
    Quote Originally Posted by Trainrex
    He was throwing balloons filled with sulfuric acid and shrapnel at the swat team. They finally had to take him down with rubber bullets.
    2011 STi Build Log
    -Part 1 - Reading, Data Logging, and Analyzing Data
    -Part 2 - Turbocharger 101 & Basic Boost Control
    -Part 3 - EcuFlash, Experimental Defintions, and a Drive By Wire Intro

  9. #8
    Registered User SamXp's Avatar
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    Yeah, Menzerna Final Polish actually has fine abrasives that help reduce swirls, but very difficult to do so by hand. A machine polisher would be the way to go down the road.
    Prepsol is perfect after any abrasive polish, because the polish generally contains oils (even water based like Menzerna FP) that will make it difficult or impossible to which a sealant or wax can adhere. You can find it in the auto body section rather than the car wash/wax detailing section of your local auto parts store. It comes in a lot of names, such as Prep-All, etc. Ultimately it is just a weak solvent that is safe on plastic trim that you wipe on and immediately wipe off. If you let it sit and air dry, all you did was dissolve the oils/wax/etc and then let them dry in a fine film over the paint.

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    Registered User Heide264's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SamXp View Post
    Yeah, Menzerna Final Polish actually has fine abrasives that help reduce swirls, but very difficult to do so by hand. A machine polisher would be the way to go down the road.
    Prepsol is perfect after any abrasive polish, because the polish generally contains oils (even water based like Menzerna FP) that will make it difficult or impossible to which a sealant or wax can adhere. You can find it in the auto body section rather than the car wash/wax detailing section of your local auto parts store. It comes in a lot of names, such as Prep-All, etc. Ultimately it is just a weak solvent that is safe on plastic trim that you wipe on and immediately wipe off. If you let it sit and air dry, all you did was dissolve the oils/wax/etc and then let them dry in a fine film over the paint.
    Yup. I knew FP was abrasive, but its so fine that most agree even with a machine it won't cut out swirls or maring much. I will check out the Prepsol. I know I should have used it after polishing.

    Been doing a lot of reading on Autopia. Some good resources over there as far as detailing goes. Nice, low key crowd as well.

    I need to go through our basement. With my luck we have something I can use as a polisher. I have a feeling I only need to get a couple pads. If so, going to pick up a mid strength polish and do up my mother's saab/trailblazer for mothers day. Espeically considering I keep snatching her garage do my car =P.

    If I run that prepsol over my car after a wash when I get back, could I just go straight on to applying a coat or two of the sealant? I would like to get another coat on there.
    Quote Originally Posted by Trainrex
    He was throwing balloons filled with sulfuric acid and shrapnel at the swat team. They finally had to take him down with rubber bullets.
    2011 STi Build Log
    -Part 1 - Reading, Data Logging, and Analyzing Data
    -Part 2 - Turbocharger 101 & Basic Boost Control
    -Part 3 - EcuFlash, Experimental Defintions, and a Drive By Wire Intro

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    Registered User 11wrxwagon's Avatar
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    I dont really use the clay at all should I start using it and what brand should I buy. I watched some videos online on how to do it. And I just washed and waxed her that day. It rained the past few days so I had the car cover on. Any who what does the polisher do I was looking into buying some of that too and whats a good brand.
    Stage 1 WRX=Fun car.
    2001 Dodge Stratus R/T=Driving to work car.

    Invidia street exhaust\AEM Intake\Cobb access port flashed to stage 1 +AEM intake. Estimated 294hp/353ft lbs of torque

  12. #11
    Registered User SamXp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Heide264 View Post
    Yup. I knew FP was abrasive, but its so fine that most agree even with a machine it won't cut out swirls or maring much. I will check out the Prepsol. I know I should have used it after polishing.

    Been doing a lot of reading on Autopia. Some good resources over there as far as detailing goes. Nice, low key crowd as well.

    I need to go through our basement. With my luck we have something I can use as a polisher. I have a feeling I only need to get a couple pads. If so, going to pick up a mid strength polish and do up my mother's saab/trailblazer for mothers day. Espeically considering I keep snatching her garage do my car =P.

    If I run that prepsol over my car after a wash when I get back, could I just go straight on to applying a coat or two of the sealant? I would like to get another coat on there.
    Autopia is a good crowd but be cautious about people obsessed over brands. It's more about good technique with the right product.

    If you Prepsol the car now, you'll remove the layer of sealant you already applied, but will certainly prepare a better base for adhesion for the new layers. If you already have a layer on, I'd just go on with a second layer and try Prepsol next time. (Probably mid summer)

  13. #12
    Registered User SamXp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 11wrxwagon View Post
    I dont really use the clay at all should I start using it and what brand should I buy. I watched some videos online on how to do it. And I just washed and waxed her that day. It rained the past few days so I had the car cover on. Any who what does the polisher do I was looking into buying some of that too and whats a good brand.
    These best thing clay does is prepare a surface for either polishing or a final protectant like wax or sealant. It can strip off road grime and previous wax buildup and help the new sealant or wax adhere. When polishing, you need to clay to prevent the polishing pad from picking up the contaminants and marring the surface (so called "buffer trails").
    Unless you're about to polish, you want a very fine clay like Sonus Green. PM me and I might be able to get you a discount.

    Some great machine polishers out there like the UDM or Flex but Rotary polishers are a lot more powerful and will get the job done faster. Just need to learn the technique and practice before working on your car. Look for Youtube videos of "System One" and you'll see people trying rotary polishers for the first time with great success.

  14. #13
    Registered User Heide264's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SamXp View Post
    Some great machine polishers out there like the UDM or Flex but Rotary polishers are a lot more powerful and will get the job done faster. Just need to learn the technique and practice before working on your car. Look for Youtube videos of "System One" and you'll see people trying rotary polishers for the first time with great success.
    What's the difference inbetween a rotary polisher and a traditional 90 degree grinder/sander? More torque in the grinder/sander and less in the polisher? Stupid question, but we have about every power tool known to man kind down there (that is never used), and I am almost certain I have a 'sander' that may very well be a polisher. Got a dump of random power tools from an inheritance a while back and still haven't sorted through them all.
    Quote Originally Posted by Trainrex
    He was throwing balloons filled with sulfuric acid and shrapnel at the swat team. They finally had to take him down with rubber bullets.
    2011 STi Build Log
    -Part 1 - Reading, Data Logging, and Analyzing Data
    -Part 2 - Turbocharger 101 & Basic Boost Control
    -Part 3 - EcuFlash, Experimental Defintions, and a Drive By Wire Intro

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    Registered User SamXp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Heide264 View Post
    What's the difference inbetween a rotary polisher and a traditional 90 degree grinder/sander? More torque in the grinder/sander and less in the polisher? Stupid question, but we have about every power tool known to man kind down there (that is never used), and I am almost certain I have a 'sander' that may very well be a polisher. Got a dump of random power tools from an inheritance a while back and still haven't sorted through them all.
    Definitely a lot more torque and rpm. You'd damage the paint, for sure.

  16. #15
    Registered User Heide264's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SamXp View Post
    Definitely a lot more torque and rpm. You'd damage the paint, for sure.
    I figured so. I might pick a machine up anyhow. I don't need to get the job done fast, just done well. There is a $40 one on autopia. I need to do some reading.
    Quote Originally Posted by Trainrex
    He was throwing balloons filled with sulfuric acid and shrapnel at the swat team. They finally had to take him down with rubber bullets.
    2011 STi Build Log
    -Part 1 - Reading, Data Logging, and Analyzing Data
    -Part 2 - Turbocharger 101 & Basic Boost Control
    -Part 3 - EcuFlash, Experimental Defintions, and a Drive By Wire Intro

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