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Brand New WRX - should I wax her?

10K views 31 replies 17 participants last post by  lovingit 
#1 ·
Just got my 2009 WRX Hatch (white) - Do you suggest I wax her or should she be ok for a while?

Thanks
 
#4 ·
Yes, wax it yesterday. I thought my 09 would be good for a bit but tree sap made a mess of it--bubbled the clear coat in a few spots, discolor the paint in others, and ate the paint all the way down to the primer in one place. Looks like SOA will warranty some of the worst damage, though. I've put on multiple coats of wax since and the paint holding up just fine now.
 
#7 ·
Definitely a good idea. The car was painted quite some time ago and since then its been out in various lots by the factory, at the port, on the boat and at the dealer for who knows how long. Its had enough time and been in the elements enough to warrant a wax.
 
#8 ·
Wow, what dealer did you buy from that didn't wax and detail that car up nicely for you upon delivery?

If all they did was wash it, they need to be slapped and brought up to standards.

I had to wait 2 hours for the 2 guys to fully detail and wax my new WRX this past weekend, but it was worth the wait to see her all shined up and looking showroom new upon delivery.
 
#14 ·
Wow, what dealer did you buy from that didn't wax and detail that car up nicely for you upon delivery?

If all they did was wash it, they need to be slapped and brought up to standards.
I'm pretty sure it is not the standard for a dealer to do some sort of hand wax job before they deliver the vehicle. I've bought 3 new vehicles now and all they did was peel off all the protectant plastic, give it a good wash, vaccuum, and then detail as necessary (e.g. clean any dirt from the test drive, shiny tire stuff, etc).

BTW, if your dealer did do a "free" wax job keep in mind it wasn't free. They made the money from you somewhere else.
 
#9 ·
Maybe I'm just a control freak but I specifically ask the dealer not to detail my car when I buy them.


In my experience "dealer detailing" usually means washing it, spraying on some goopy tire shine and slathering armor all over absolutely every thing in the interior.
 
#13 ·
Wow, you guys have some pretty ****ty dealers where you live if that was your experience.

Wash, hand liquid wax, clean windows, and tire dressing here.
Pretty much just like you'd get if you went to a detail shop and paid $39 for a wash and wax.
No armorall on the interior, no funny fragrances.

Just a nice glassy and glossy shine.
People in LA are car freaks, dealerships and detail shops wouldn't stay in business long if they cleaned and detailed cars like how you guys have explained.
 
#18 ·
....in the past 25+ years of vehicles ownership (as a California native), I have had to correct every new vehicle I have brought home due to the negligence of the Neanderthals you typically find working at dealerships. ....and I wouldn't expect a difference in the quality of service from a shop charging lowball rates.

There are plenty of examples showing the handy work from hacks working at dealers and/or high volume, low quality shops on the various detailing forums.
 
#21 ·
All of the previous posters are correct, it needs to be waxed. Being that it was on a boat, train, on the lot, etc also warrants clay bar treatment prior to waxing. You can't see them, but more than likely the contaminants are there from raildust and fallout. You don't want to just wax it and seal all that in. OEM paint has been baked anyway so waxing will not hurt your clear coat. 40% of the details I do are brand new cars that the dealer managed to put defects in. Check it under halogen lighting also to make sure you don't need to at least use a finishing polish before waxing and/or sealing.
 
#22 ·
The Subaru dealer that I go to offers to wash/wax the car if I leave it after an oil change. I drop it off at lunch time and pick it up after work. Looks brand new when I pick it up, they also touched up a few paint chips for free and it looks amazing!
 
#23 · (Edited)
It was raining when I picked mine up so I asked that they leave it alone and I'd take care of the details.

first clear day I washed by hand with a new mit and waxed the hell out of it.. two coats. Obsidian black is damn sexy when its clean.. when I bought the car I had no Idea it wasn't solid black. :cool:

I also had no Idea it came from the factory with swirl marks :(
 
#24 ·
Personally I go home and wash my car with blue dawn (yes blue dawn dish soap and yes.. only blue..

I clay bar the car
paint seal the car
2 coats of synthetic wax
2 coats of carnuba

I actually do more than that.. But thats the easy one..
 
#26 ·
....what you do/use during your regular maintenance routine is going to have more of impact on keeping your finish blemish free. Also, asking people what they use or prefer as an LSP (last step product) is like asking people what their favorite flavor of ice cream is.

The real question is, what characteristics/qualities are you looking for in a sealant/wax? I can provide a few recommendations based on that.
 
#27 · (Edited)
Yes, all that is true. I am, however, still curious what WAX everyone prefers. I know there are many steps, I just wonder what others like best at this particular step.

But now that you mention it, you could probably let me know what you think would be good for cleaning the surface after I wash it. Usually I use claybar, but maybe there is more I should do.
 
#28 ·
Yes, all that is true. I am, however, still curious what WAX everyone prefers. I know there are many steps, I just wonder what others like best at this particular step.
....again, that's why I said it depends on what the individual is looking for in a product.

FK1000p, Collinite 845, Optimum Opti-Seal, Zaino Z-5/Z-2/Z-AIO, P21s carnauba, Klasse AIO.... These are just a few I have tried and liked (some more than others) and still have in my arsenal. Which one I prefer or would recommend really depend on the situation though since they all have their own unique qualities. If you want a relatively cheap, durable and easy to use OTC product, I might say to go with something like Collinte 845. ....or 476s/915 if you want an arguably better look and even more durability but are also willing to devote a little more time (they can be finicky during application/removal). I might also recommend using something like Duragloss Aquawax after washing to help maintain the finish and give it a little boost. ....it is also available OTC.
 
#30 ·
So no one Zainos?

I always within the first week or two (depending on time and weather) claybar and do a full Zaino treatment. Then I only go in and claybar and re-apply one treatment of Zaino (Z5 and Z2) once a year.

My cars have come out better than ever doing it this way. My Trans Am hasn't had Zaino put on it in almost 2 years and it still beads with "bigger" water droplets than most do with waxing...so its still on there. Though this year I think I'll get both the TA and the WRX Zainoed well so they are on the same schedule.

Zaino is a pain the first time you do it, but so easy afterwards.
 
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