Brand New WRX - should I wax her? - Page 2
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This is a discussion on Brand New WRX - should I wax her? within the Detailing Forum forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Originally Posted by Driver72 Wow, what dealer did you buy from that didn't wax and detail that car up nicely ...

  1. #16
    Registered User brbauer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Driver72 View Post
    Wow, what dealer did you buy from that didn't wax and detail that car up nicely for you upon delivery?

    If all they did was wash it, they need to be slapped and brought up to standards.

    I had to wait 2 hours for the 2 guys to fully detail and wax my new WRX this past weekend, but it was worth the wait to see her all shined up and looking showroom new upon delivery.
    They washed it and made the tires all shiney...I don't think they wax'ed it though.
    2009 WRX 5 door White - "wht out"
    1998 VW Passat 1.8T Black - blown engine
    1988 Porsche 944 Black - sold
    1999 Honda CBR 600 - sold

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  3. #17
    Registered User economatic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Driver72 View Post
    Nope, I made the deal and signed the paperwork first.
    It's called, "customer service" they want to make the money from you in repeat customer, service visits, parts, etc.
    It would be retarded to try to sneak in a $40 fee for detailing or something. They want you back, that's where they'll make the extra money.
    My point is there is no such thing as a free lunch. They pay their detailer so it isn't without cost. Call it customer service or whatever you want but they make up that money somewhere. Perfect example is when I took my wife's Yaris into the local Toyota dealership for an oil change. They offered "free" wash, "free" vaccuum, and "free" shuttle to the local subway station...all for the price of $52.95 before shop fees and taxes. I laughed at them and walked out.

    Sorry for the disgression...I get carried away when talking about economics. In short, get wax on your car after you buy it whether it is a "free" detail service or DIY.

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Driver72 View Post
    Wow, you guys have some pretty ****ty dealers where you live if that was your experience.

    Wash, hand liquid wax, clean windows, and tire dressing here.
    Pretty much just like you'd get if you went to a detail shop and paid $39 for a wash and wax.
    No armorall on the interior, no funny fragrances.

    Just a nice glassy and glossy shine.
    People in LA are car freaks, dealerships and detail shops wouldn't stay in business long if they cleaned and detailed cars like how you guys have explained.
    ....in the past 25+ years of vehicles ownership (as a California native), I have had to correct every new vehicle I have brought home due to the negligence of the Neanderthals you typically find working at dealerships. ....and I wouldn't expect a difference in the quality of service from a shop charging lowball rates.

    There are plenty of examples showing the handy work from hacks working at dealers and/or high volume, low quality shops on the various detailing forums.

  5. #19
    Registered User Guero's Avatar
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    My car came squeaky clean and waxed from the lot. I did wax it within a week though. I've gotten into the habit of waxing the front end whenever I wash it. Nervous about the paint.

  6. #20
    Registered User economatic's Avatar
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    Update

    Quote Originally Posted by economatic View Post
    Yes, wax it yesterday. I thought my 09 would be good for a bit but tree sap made a mess of it--bubbled the clear coat in a few spots, discolor the paint in others, and ate the paint all the way down to the primer in one place. Looks like SOA will warranty some of the worst damage, though. I've put on multiple coats of wax since and the paint holding up just fine now.
    Update: SOA has officially agreed to warranty the hood, which is where the paint was eaten down to the primer. Not a bad resolve considering they do have an exclusion for tree sap, bird droppings, etc. They won't cover the roof, which they said is normal wear and tear associated with bird droppings (well...it is tree sap to be specific).

    Overall, I'm happy with how they handled it. There are only two tiny spots left on the roof, which isn't noticeable by anyone but me. It's all good now--with numerous coats of wax tree sap, bird droppings, etc just fall off the car.

  7. #21
    Registered User Bullitt21's Avatar
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    All of the previous posters are correct, it needs to be waxed. Being that it was on a boat, train, on the lot, etc also warrants clay bar treatment prior to waxing. You can't see them, but more than likely the contaminants are there from raildust and fallout. You don't want to just wax it and seal all that in. OEM paint has been baked anyway so waxing will not hurt your clear coat. 40% of the details I do are brand new cars that the dealer managed to put defects in. Check it under halogen lighting also to make sure you don't need to at least use a finishing polish before waxing and/or sealing.

  8. #22
    Registered User msedbaue's Avatar
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    The Subaru dealer that I go to offers to wash/wax the car if I leave it after an oil change. I drop it off at lunch time and pick it up after work. Looks brand new when I pick it up, they also touched up a few paint chips for free and it looks amazing!

  9. #23
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    It was raining when I picked mine up so I asked that they leave it alone and I'd take care of the details.

    first clear day I washed by hand with a new mit and waxed the hell out of it.. two coats. Obsidian black is damn sexy when its clean.. when I bought the car I had no Idea it wasn't solid black.

    I also had no Idea it came from the factory with swirl marks
    Last edited by mangostick; 02-27-2010 at 02:17 PM.
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  10. #24
    Moderator T0rque's Avatar
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    I Support ClubWRX
    Personally I go home and wash my car with blue dawn (yes blue dawn dish soap and yes.. only blue..

    I clay bar the car
    paint seal the car
    2 coats of synthetic wax
    2 coats of carnuba

    I actually do more than that.. But thats the easy one..


    Lead Wrench @ WTF Tuning, LLC

  11. #25
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    What wax does everyone like to use? I just got a 2010 thats black and I need to keep it healthy and swirl mark free.

  12. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by zalewski22 View Post
    What wax does everyone like to use? I just got a 2010 thats black and I need to keep it healthy and swirl mark free.
    ....what you do/use during your regular maintenance routine is going to have more of impact on keeping your finish blemish free. Also, asking people what they use or prefer as an LSP (last step product) is like asking people what their favorite flavor of ice cream is.

    The real question is, what characteristics/qualities are you looking for in a sealant/wax? I can provide a few recommendations based on that.

  13. #27
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    Yes, all that is true. I am, however, still curious what WAX everyone prefers. I know there are many steps, I just wonder what others like best at this particular step.

    But now that you mention it, you could probably let me know what you think would be good for cleaning the surface after I wash it. Usually I use claybar, but maybe there is more I should do.
    Last edited by zalewski22; 02-27-2010 at 08:24 PM.

  14. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by zalewski22 View Post
    Yes, all that is true. I am, however, still curious what WAX everyone prefers. I know there are many steps, I just wonder what others like best at this particular step.
    ....again, that's why I said it depends on what the individual is looking for in a product.

    FK1000p, Collinite 845, Optimum Opti-Seal, Zaino Z-5/Z-2/Z-AIO, P21s carnauba, Klasse AIO.... These are just a few I have tried and liked (some more than others) and still have in my arsenal. Which one I prefer or would recommend really depend on the situation though since they all have their own unique qualities. If you want a relatively cheap, durable and easy to use OTC product, I might say to go with something like Collinte 845. ....or 476s/915 if you want an arguably better look and even more durability but are also willing to devote a little more time (they can be finicky during application/removal). I might also recommend using something like Duragloss Aquawax after washing to help maintain the finish and give it a little boost. ....it is also available OTC.

  15. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by zalewski22 View Post
    But now that you mention it, you could probably let me know what you think would be good for cleaning the surface after I wash it. Usually I use claybar, but maybe there is more I should do.
    ....here's a chart you may find useful:


    How often you need to do these steps (claying, polishing, etc.) will depend on your particular situation. ....weather/environmental conditions, where you park the car, road conditions, washing techniques/tools/products, wax/sealant used, etc. What you need or choose to use will depend on the condition of the finish and what you are trying to accomplish. I'm sorry I am sounding so vague but I don't subscribe to the idea that everyone should do X, Y, Z every X months, weeks, etc. It really depends on the individual. However, having a better understanding of what these products do will give you a much better idea of when or if you really need to use them.

    Check the articles here:

    Auto Detailing Facts, auto detailing Tips, How to detailing Guides, how to polish, how to wax, DIY detailing, do it yourself guides

    ....and/or the videos here:

    Autogeek's Show Car Garage

    Don't get hung up on the particular products/tools they recommend. Concentrate more on what they do and the techniques.

    Having said all that, what do you mean "after washing the car"? Every time you wash the car? Clay is generally meant to be used periodically to remove surface contaminants that don't come off during your normal wash routine. The problem with using it frequently is that it will typically remove whatever LSP - last step product (wax, sealant) along with it (requiring you to re-apply). .....there are milder clays available though that are much gentler on LSP's and can be used more frequently on lighter contaminants.

  16. #30
    Registered User PewterTA's Avatar
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    So no one Zainos?

    I always within the first week or two (depending on time and weather) claybar and do a full Zaino treatment. Then I only go in and claybar and re-apply one treatment of Zaino (Z5 and Z2) once a year.

    My cars have come out better than ever doing it this way. My Trans Am hasn't had Zaino put on it in almost 2 years and it still beads with "bigger" water droplets than most do with waxing...so its still on there. Though this year I think I'll get both the TA and the WRX Zainoed well so they are on the same schedule.

    Zaino is a pain the first time you do it, but so easy afterwards.

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