I wanted something that looked oe- black face, yellow needle, green backlit and somethin that read in psi- enter Omori. I also wanted a steering column mount- similar to the oe one. Omori makes a 45 mm gauge that fits the bill, but no hood and SOA won't sell you just the single hood- at least no to me.
So I bought a 52mm Omori electronic boost gauge (oe look) and this;
Well the hood from Omori wouldn't work for the look I wanted so I hacked off the bottom portion and then dremeled the bottom smooth. I also had to dremel a small hole in the back of the hood to allow the connector to be hooked to the gauge.
Next I had to select a location for the sending unit and mount it (actually you must first attach the sending unit to a small L braket w/ three tiny screws). I found a nice L shaped bracket below the fuel filter. First remove the windshield wiper fluid reservoir- 2 10mm bolts. You will then see the bracket I'm talking about, again two 10 mm bolts and a clip that needs released that is holding a wire loom. I pulled the braket out and pre-drilled to holes for the screws provided. Mount the sending unit w/ the wire connectted that will go into the cab.
Next, tap (cut) the BOV line (I cut mine- but you can simply add a section of vaccum line and T off of it)-put the T in and connect the provided vaccum line to the sending unit. I ended up putting hose clamps above and below the T, probably overkill, but what the heck.
Then find the rubber grommet between the brake pedal and throttle and pull it out (this is where the electric line will feed into the cabin). You can reach under and push the electric line into the cabin now. Cut an X into the grommett and feed the line through it. Reinstall the grommet and your done in the engine bay.
Now you need to mount the gauge itself to the steering column. I used the instructions from the Subaru oe one. * Note I did not use the grommet they show in the instructions.
There is a hole in the bottom of the holder, I used this to bolt the holder to column piece and put a small (real small) metal screw in the front of the holder. With the holder mounted, run the wire connector into the housing through the small hole in the back that you cut. Connect it to the boost gauge and slide the gauge into the housing. The other end is Y'd w/ two connectors- one will connect to the wire from the sending unit and the other the power supply.
Now we just have to worry about power. I tapped the clock wires. Remove the clock- put thumb under each side of the clock and pull straight up- pretty hard. This will unloose the rear. Now lift straight up again, except in the front- again rather firmly. Unhook the connector from the clock. The last wire you have left has five wires at one end and a connector that goes to the boost gauge Y wire. Fish this wire connector down with a coat hanger through the opening left by the clock- it should come out somewhere near the throttle. Connect both the wire from the sending unit and the power source to the gauge Y wire (ofcourse you must use zip ties below to make it nice and neat.
Pull back the black wrap on the clock wire. One wire will be yellow w/ a stripe, use a vampire clip and connect the red wire (from gauge) this is 12v ignition wire. Next find the pink w/ stripe wire and connect this to the white gauge wire-this is the illumination wire. Next the black to black- ground. There will be two left over wires- one black, one brown- tape these back you won't need them. Put everything back together and voila, anice clean oe looking boost gauge that reads in psi.
The finished product: