oem look boost gauge and install details
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This is a discussion on oem look boost gauge and install details within the Cockpit and Cabin forums, part of the Tutorials & DIY category; I wanted something that looked oe- black face, yellow needle, green backlit and somethin that read in psi- enter Omori. ...

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    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    oem look boost gauge and install details

    I wanted something that looked oe- black face, yellow needle, green backlit and somethin that read in psi- enter Omori. I also wanted a steering column mount- similar to the oe one. Omori makes a 45 mm gauge that fits the bill, but no hood and SOA won't sell you just the single hood- at least no to me.

    So I bought a 52mm Omori electronic boost gauge (oe look) and this;


    Well the hood from Omori wouldn't work for the look I wanted so I hacked off the bottom portion and then dremeled the bottom smooth. I also had to dremel a small hole in the back of the hood to allow the connector to be hooked to the gauge.

    Next I had to select a location for the sending unit and mount it (actually you must first attach the sending unit to a small L braket w/ three tiny screws). I found a nice L shaped bracket below the fuel filter. First remove the windshield wiper fluid reservoir- 2 10mm bolts. You will then see the bracket I'm talking about, again two 10 mm bolts and a clip that needs released that is holding a wire loom. I pulled the braket out and pre-drilled to holes for the screws provided. Mount the sending unit w/ the wire connectted that will go into the cab.

    Next, tap (cut) the BOV line (I cut mine- but you can simply add a section of vaccum line and T off of it)-put the T in and connect the provided vaccum line to the sending unit. I ended up putting hose clamps above and below the T, probably overkill, but what the heck.

    Then find the rubber grommet between the brake pedal and throttle and pull it out (this is where the electric line will feed into the cabin). You can reach under and push the electric line into the cabin now. Cut an X into the grommett and feed the line through it. Reinstall the grommet and your done in the engine bay.

    Now you need to mount the gauge itself to the steering column. I used the instructions from the Subaru oe one. * Note I did not use the grommet they show in the instructions.





    There is a hole in the bottom of the holder, I used this to bolt the holder to column piece and put a small (real small) metal screw in the front of the holder. With the holder mounted, run the wire connector into the housing through the small hole in the back that you cut. Connect it to the boost gauge and slide the gauge into the housing. The other end is Y'd w/ two connectors- one will connect to the wire from the sending unit and the other the power supply.

    Now we just have to worry about power. I tapped the clock wires. Remove the clock- put thumb under each side of the clock and pull straight up- pretty hard. This will unloose the rear. Now lift straight up again, except in the front- again rather firmly. Unhook the connector from the clock. The last wire you have left has five wires at one end and a connector that goes to the boost gauge Y wire. Fish this wire connector down with a coat hanger through the opening left by the clock- it should come out somewhere near the throttle. Connect both the wire from the sending unit and the power source to the gauge Y wire (ofcourse you must use zip ties below to make it nice and neat.

    Pull back the black wrap on the clock wire. One wire will be yellow w/ a stripe, use a vampire clip and connect the red wire (from gauge) this is 12v ignition wire. Next find the pink w/ stripe wire and connect this to the white gauge wire-this is the illumination wire. Next the black to black- ground. There will be two left over wires- one black, one brown- tape these back you won't need them. Put everything back together and voila, anice clean oe looking boost gauge that reads in psi.

    The finished product:

    Last edited by Big Sky WRX; 10-07-2002 at 06:50 AM.

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    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    The damn little red X, try again:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails boost2.jpg  

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    Registered User Root's Avatar
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    This has some good detail, I am going to move it to the Tutorial section with a pointer here.

    Justin
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    and experience comes from bad judgement.

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    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    Sounds good.

    Here's where I tapped the BOV (BPV for some)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails installb1.jpg  
    Last edited by Big Sky WRX; 01-23-2003 at 08:18 PM.

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    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    Here's a look at the sending unit- have to look hard
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails boost4.jpg  

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    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    Here's a side view of the gauge
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails boost3.jpg  

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    Registered User is2scooby's Avatar
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    The Omori gauge looks great! Where did you pick it up?
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    Moderator fengshui's Avatar
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    the Omori gauges are awesome because they match the stock boost gauge. Im probably going to get the usual EGT and other guages from them. I wonder how much their custom turbine RPM guage costs? Now that would rock

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    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    I got it here:

    http://www.kastleskorner.com/store/

    The guy was great to deal w/. Everything in stock, reponded to email questions right away, tracking #'s sent out immediately- kind of a breath of fresh air after dealing w/ some other vendors.

    He's also the guy that started and still runs scoobymods.com- that site has helped me immensely.

    I'll probably get the matching EGT, don't know if I'll put it on the opposite side of the column or in a pod near the a column.

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    Registered User JTREX's Avatar
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    Re: oem look boost gauge and install details

    [QUOTE]Originally posted by Big Sky WRX

    Well the hood from Omori wouldn't work for the look I wanted so I hacked off the bottom portion and then dremeled the bottom smooth. I also had to dremel a small hole in the back of the hood to allow the connector to be hooked to the gauge.

    I understand putting the hole in the back, but why did you have to hack off the bottom portion?

    I like what you did, I will hopefully be doing the same thing.
    Drag racing? I like my racing to last longer than the average orgasm...

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    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    If you look at the top pic of the pod, you'll se it is on a pivoting arm- this set it up to high on the steering column- thus I chopped it off. Making it look like the oe one (albeit a smidgen bigger).

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    Registered User SanRemoRex's Avatar
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    Does it have to be the BOV line? Could it replace the hose fitting in the solenoid line, to the left of the intercooler in front of the turbo? I have it indicated in the picture. Also, I think I'm right with this, but if I'm wrong would someone please correct me, the Blitz gauge I bought has 4 wires, pictured, black, red, yellow, and orange. If I'm thinking correctly these should be ground, ignition power, constant 12v, and illumination, respectively, yes?

    Fitting is circled in red.
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    Registered User SanRemoRex's Avatar
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    Fitting
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    Registered User ScoobySnacks's Avatar
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    Originally posted by SanRemoRex
    Does it have to be the BOV line? Could it replace the hose fitting in the solenoid line, to the left of the intercooler in front of the turbo? I have it indicated in the picture. Also, I think I'm right with this, but if I'm wrong would someone please correct me, the Blitz gauge I bought has 4 wires, pictured, black, red, yellow, and orange. If I'm thinking correctly these should be ground, ignition power, constant 12v, and illumination, respectively, yes?

    Fitting is circled in red.
    Close.

    Its ground, illumintation, constant 12v, ignition.

    Switch your yellow and orange.
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