This is a discussion on Purchasing Tips within the Car Purchasing Forum forums, part of the ClubWRX.net Marketplace category; Moron #4....
Last edited by RayfieldsWRX; 10-01-2007 at 06:08 PM.
Quick question, as I will be looking for an 04 soon which will have about 50,xxx miles on it, when does the turbo usually go on these cars & when is when most change their timing belts? I would hope to use these as leverage since theyre the most costly of maintenence around this mileage. Thanks
Looks a little low for dealer cost, but still value seems fair according to what nada guides says its worth. I personally wouldnt spend 12k on a car with 80k, but if you find the car is mechanically sound, then thats your decision to proceed.
2005 WRB WRX "was" STAGE 2
Hey i'm new, want to buy a wrx, probably between year 2000-2003. I just wanted a few tips on what to look for mechanically, and killometer wise. Also what kind of upgrade packages are available and does anyone suggest buying performance parts from ebay. Oh and one mor thing, hows the insurance, roughly?expensive?
Hey guys, I'm completely new to subaru's in general and I was wondering what I should look for in a used car. I think I'm going to be looking primarily at 2000-2004 wrx so are there any key features to look for mechanically or superficially? Thanks
I'm a first time poster getting ready to jump on a 09 wrx (or maybe an 08 sti).
The first post assumes that the dealer will have many wrx's in stock already. If this is not the case do the guidelines still apply? Thanks!
hahaah i sell cars..that initial poster is an idiot. that's exactly what people think and how they don't let themselves buy a car. because they never feel theyre getting a good enough deal. 10% is a lot!! some cars aren't even marked up that much.
Something should be mentioned here that is on many car buying sites and I have experienced first hand, an invoice is a meaningless piece of paper... as in I have an invoice for a $300 phone but I didn't pay for it.
A dealership is invoiced an amount but this does not show dealership discounts, specials, and other price breaks. I purchased my 09 OBS well under invoice but boy oh boy did they wave that invoice under my nose time and time again but when push came to shove I found another dealer that was willing to beat the invoice price handily... in fact I found 3 dealers (out of the 6 that I contacted in 3 states) that were willing to do so.
Anywho, dealerships can produce pieces of paper all day long, the most important tool listed is just walking away. I probably should have walked away from the first dealer when he showed me a used Pontiac Aztec instead of a Subaru, but I stuck it out till I got their lowest offer on the car I wanted then left (once I stole my keys back from them) They called me back a half dozen times with offers for more money with a different finance company and then a few more times knocking $500 chunks off their supposedly lowest offer. Somehow they were even offering deals below the unbreakable invoice price. It was like magic. I still refused and I bought my car from a dealer much farther away but agreed to a price I had in mind.
It was a disappointing farewell drive for my Mazdaspeed Protege since it was January in northern Illinois but it was a blast driving home through ice, snow drifts, and whatever else I could find. (I took a beating buying that car, naive naive naive....)
I might have missed it but since dealerships dont use Blue Book there really is no point to having it as a reference point for your trade in. It will just lead to disappointment. Surely you have seen the little black book they whip out the second they figure out you didnt walk there. It is the same principle just lower buying prices and they are not very flexible about your trade in. My wife nearly punched a salesman in the throat when he told her that her Mustang GT with 20k miles was only worth 16k after our credit union had given us a Blue Book price of 22k.
Just sharing my experiences, knowledge is power and whatnot. Google How to buy a car. It saved me $3000 on my OBS, about to find out if will work on a WRX this spring (probably not to the same degree of success I am sure). Having my preapproval in hand, the balls to walk away, and contempt for the very people that lied to me in the first place was all it took. I can probably muster that up again
This all sounds like good info but what about when ordering a car? I've been looking for months and haven't seen a 5 door sti within 700 miles
As far as ordering a 2012, probably too bad. However, if you're going to order a 2013, you can skip ALL this BS by ordering from this guy:
500 under dealer invoice + parts for cost is pretty cheap. Cheap enough to make up the difference at least for a 1 way plane ticket!
What I'm going to do is give my current dealer an opportunity to match that price (I'll even add my travel expenses on to the final price to give the dealer a fair chance). If he isn't willing to play ball then I'll just order from Clayton (Rexxx). I figure, if I have to wait for it to get shipped in regardless, why don't I just save a fortune and get exactly what I want? If you have a trade in, private sell it and borrow someone else's beater for a while if you can - it's part of my plan
Hi guys! I'm also new to the forum, love all the great info I've read so far. I was wondering what kind of leverage if any, I would have in negotiating in a 2015 Wrx? Since it's a brand new model and I'm buying during release will the dealer have less wiggle room? I've already put a $500 deposit on it but the deal assures me it's refundable. I'm willing to get my refund back if another dealer gives me a better price.
So let's say I'm going to get a 2015 WRX Premium. Edmunds has the dealer invoice at $27,643. I'm ready, willing, and planning to pay cash, in full. How much should I ideally expect to be able to get down to with some haggling and paying cash?