Used 2015 or a New 2016/17 WRX Limited?
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This is a discussion on Used 2015 or a New 2016/17 WRX Limited? within the Car Purchasing Forum forums, part of the ClubWRX.net Marketplace category; Hi Guys, New to the forums here, but, long story, short: I test drove a 2017 WRX limited yesterday, and ...

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    Used 2015 or a New 2016/17 WRX Limited?

    Hi Guys,

    New to the forums here, but, long story, short: I test drove a 2017 WRX limited yesterday, and after testing other cars, like the GTI, Focus ST, and Fiesta ST, I found the WRX to be the most enjoyable. I really would like a 2016 or a 2017, but I'm really on the fence about purchasing a new car for a few reasons: depreciation suffers the most in the car's first 2 years, excise tax will be higher (I live in MA), and the cost to purchase will be more. So here are the options I have:

    Purchase a 2016/17 WRX limited with the options I want, hope to pay an out-the-door price of no more than 34k, and deal with the cost to own expenses of a new car. The second option is to shop around for a 2015, as they are considered used, but still have the new 2.0 engine, as well as most of the options I want (Harman Kardon, sunroof, rearview camera, push button start), but I'd be missing out on the larger wheels, better head unit, some safety features, and a few other small improvements. I was able to find a 2015 WRX with the features I want with ~22k miles with an asking price of 28k. I guess my biggest hangup with a WRX with that kind of mileage is that it's near impossible to determine if the car was driven hard or not. I was also hoping to purchase a Crystal Pearl White or WR Blue Pearl WRX, and while the 2015 is not a color I dislike (Ice Silver Metallic), it's not my top 2.

    I know I obviously need to make a decision for myself, but I was hoping to get some feedback here on which option people feel would be best from an overall kind of standpoint—particularly those who are familiar with the differences between the 2015 and 2016/17 WRXs.

    Thanks!

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    Registered User batman900's Avatar
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    I'd go with a 16+ model. The early 15s had a very messy tune and it caused a lot of issues. If the previous owners drove it hard with that bad tune and/or ignored the ecu update, it could have damage that may show up now or later after the warranty is up.

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    Quote Originally Posted by batman900 View Post
    I'd go with a 16+ model. The early 15s had a very messy tune and it caused a lot of issues. If the previous owners drove it hard with that bad tune and/or ignored the ecu update, it could have damage that may show up now or later after the warranty is up.
    Good to know, thanks!

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    Registered User Firefighterjake's Avatar
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    I'll be upfront and say I have a 2015 WRX I bought brand new . . . and had a chance to go with a used 2015 with 6,000 or so miles and I ended up going brand new.

    While you list off some negatives with buying brand new (depreciation, higher excise tax, cost) there are some positives to buying new . . .

    + When you pick up the keys and the mileage is still in the single digits you'll pretty much know from Day 1 how the car was broken in and how it was maintained . . . buying used could be a crap shoot . . . the guy may have followed the recommended break in procedure to the T, faithfully done oil changes and tire rotations on time and kept the car bone stock or he could have left the dealership with the tach near red line, has bolted on a lot of go fast bits without a proper tune and figures frequent oil changes are for idiots.

    + Warranty. If you're buying a used car from a dealership there's probably some sort of warranty, but it's often not quite as comprehensive or as long. There hasn't been a lot of issues with the latest generation . . . but every once in a while folks get a car that has a faulty part or just has some gremlins in it . . . and not knowing if the guy is tired of dealing with issues or has never had a problem may not be known with a used car.

    + If you order a car and are willing to wait you can generally get a better price and all of the options you want and none of the options you don't want to pay for . . . I found in my case that ordering resulted in a huge difference in price from the few cars I saw on the lot . . . and if you are willing to travel a bit south to say a certain dealership in New Jersey you might even net yourself a better deal. In my case, I quickly realized that the price difference between ordering new and buying a used car on a lot was really not all that much different both in the purchase price and . . .

    + Generally you will get better finance rates and terms if you order new vs. used. Depending on your credit, down payment, etc. you may qualify for some near crazily low finance rates. Again, in my case, when I analyzed the numbers both in terms of the purchase price of used and new and then looked at the cost with financing the difference between used and new wasn't as much as one might think.

    + You mention depreciation . . . and this is true . . . new cars will depreciate. However, this may be more of a concern if you're more likely to run the car for a couple of years and then want something new. In my case, I tend to research the hell out big purchases and spend an inordinate amount of time figuring out the best deal and what I want . . . and then will keep the vehicle for a very, very long time so by the time I sell deprecation isn't as much of a factor . . . plus the nice thing is Subarus (at least up this way) really hold their value.

    In either case, good luck with your purchase.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Firefighterjake View Post
    I'll be upfront and say I have a 2015 WRX I bought brand new . . . and had a chance to go with a used 2015 with 6,000 or so miles and I ended up going brand new.

    While you list off some negatives with buying brand new (depreciation, higher excise tax, cost) there are some positives to buying new . . .

    + When you pick up the keys and the mileage is still in the single digits you'll pretty much know from Day 1 how the car was broken in and how it was maintained . . . buying used could be a crap shoot . . . the guy may have followed the recommended break in procedure to the T, faithfully done oil changes and tire rotations on time and kept the car bone stock or he could have left the dealership with the tach near red line, has bolted on a lot of go fast bits without a proper tune and figures frequent oil changes are for idiots.

    + Warranty. If you're buying a used car from a dealership there's probably some sort of warranty, but it's often not quite as comprehensive or as long. There hasn't been a lot of issues with the latest generation . . . but every once in a while folks get a car that has a faulty part or just has some gremlins in it . . . and not knowing if the guy is tired of dealing with issues or has never had a problem may not be known with a used car.

    + If you order a car and are willing to wait you can generally get a better price and all of the options you want and none of the options you don't want to pay for . . . I found in my case that ordering resulted in a huge difference in price from the few cars I saw on the lot . . . and if you are willing to travel a bit south to say a certain dealership in New Jersey you might even net yourself a better deal. In my case, I quickly realized that the price difference between ordering new and buying a used car on a lot was really not all that much different both in the purchase price and . . .

    + Generally you will get better finance rates and terms if you order new vs. used. Depending on your credit, down payment, etc. you may qualify for some near crazily low finance rates. Again, in my case, when I analyzed the numbers both in terms of the purchase price of used and new and then looked at the cost with financing the difference between used and new wasn't as much as one might think.

    + You mention depreciation . . . and this is true . . . new cars will depreciate. However, this may be more of a concern if you're more likely to run the car for a couple of years and then want something new. In my case, I tend to research the hell out big purchases and spend an inordinate amount of time figuring out the best deal and what I want . . . and then will keep the vehicle for a very, very long time so by the time I sell deprecation isn't as much of a factor . . . plus the nice thing is Subarus (at least up this way) really hold their value.

    In either case, good luck with your purchase.
    Thanks for the great points! NJ would be a drive, but depending on potential savings amount, would be something I'd consider. I think Ramsey Subaru is the NJ dealer you're referring to?

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    So, my local dealer just came back with an offer of $33.3k +TTL.

    For reference, this is the specific WRX that I'm negotiating for:

    2017 WRX Limited w/ Harmon Kardon, nav, keyless entry, push button start (manual transmission)
    -Cargo net
    -Cargo tray
    -All weather mats
    -Rear bumper applique
    -Auto dimming rearview mirror with compass and homelink
    -Wheel locks
    -Arm rest extension
    -Side sill plates

    I averaged the invoice prices that Truecar and Edmunds list, and it came to $33,169. To me, I think it's a pretty good offer, but I'd like others' opinions. Thanks!

  8. #7
    Water.....sometimes waves rqjoe's Avatar
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    Do u know what the msrp would be if this car sat on a lot? I am happy if I pay no more than that 'out the door.' It's like getting a percentage-off deal a little more than whatever your sales tax rate is.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rqjoe View Post
    Do u know what the msrp would be if this car sat on a lot? I am happy if I pay no more than that 'out the door.' It's like getting a percentage-off deal a little more than whatever your sales tax rate is.
    I believe the MSRP was $35,175.

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    Registered User stephenaceituno's Avatar
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    The floor mats are garbage! Save your money for some weather tech matts. Also the Short throw shifter is a MUST for the WRX ! I have a 2016 premium. I also just started working at Subaru here in socal you if you have any questions feel free to ask.

    Going from 2016 to 2017

    The only thing that has been added is

    Auto up/ down windows for BOTH front windows. 2016 only had the driver window.

    Also on the limited, blind spot monitoring and rear cross traffic alert comes STANDARD.

    Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

  11. #10
    Registered User stephenaceituno's Avatar
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    Check out this website.

    http://www.cars101.com


    It's an unofficial page, but has every piece of information on every model. My dealership used it to train us on product knowledge haha

    Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

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    I went with new on my 2016 wrx rather than lightly used for a number of the reasons listed above. Also because it didn't seem like 1-2 year subarus with 20-30k miles were much of a discount compared to a new. An extra 2-3K on a $30K car is worth it in my opinion to get the color and options you want.

    I ended up paying 33.5 plus ttl so you are getting a better price. I had similar options plus the short throw shifter. I think the NJ dealer option will probably save you another $1k.

    Sometimes the warranty on a CPO can be longer than a new car.

    Also, if you aren't getting a good finance rate of 3% or less, go in with a pre approval from a bank or credit union and they should match it.

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