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Reply With QuoteHe claims that most if not all all from the BOV, which I plan on taking off.
This is a discussion on Possibly buying a bugeye within the Car Purchasing Forum forums, part of the ClubWRX.net Marketplace category; So I've been looking for a car the past month and I found a good looking bugeye with 75k. The ...
So I've been looking for a car the past month and I found a good looking bugeye with 75k. The guy claims to have dyno sheets of the car pushing 290hp (stage 2) the only red flag I see with this car is the CEL codes.
P0328- knock sensor
P1090 tgv sensor
P1091 tgv stuck open
P1088 tgv stuck close
What do you think?
He claims that most if not all all from the BOV, which I plan on taking off.
Honestly I would stay away from anything with modifications.
desiree
your friendly, neighborhood subaru girl
06 impreza wrx tr: cobb stage II - protuned by STi_Mikey!
hawk-eye alliance #11:11 // wingl3ss @ll!ance #17 // lvl 80 N.E.R.D.
How about if I told you I can get it for $6500?
I don't see what a BOV would have to do with any of those codes.. so right there he's lying to you. You might be able to buy it for $6500, but you're likely going to have to spend a lot more money (and time) getting it running reliably.
Who did the tune? What do they have to say about the codes? What exactly has been done to the car (specifics)?
This is the ad
2002 Subaru WRX
His explanation is "the sensors are because it has a BOV and the mass air flow sensor is expecting the bypass valve to be running while there's actually a BOV. So no air is cycling past the sensor causing a CEL"
Any advice is appreciated. Im 19 and of course Im going to get gassed up when a car like this comes up in my price range. But I cant afford a lemon, at least in the next couple months. Thanks guys.
I asked about the tune, and he has no clue, he bought it like that. The dyno makes me think it was done right.
after reading the FS ad, i stand by my original post even more.
if you're young and cant afford a headache, you need to find a bone stock wrx with maintenance records.
edit: also, the 295HP thing is a concern as well. most dyno graphs are in WHP. for a bugeye to get to 295WHP, it has to have an upgraded turbo. even if the car was dyno'd on a high reading dyno [dynojet], there has to be more than just an exhaust/FMIC/BOV.
Last edited by wrxtreme06; 11-03-2012 at 09:22 AM.
desiree
your friendly, neighborhood subaru girl
06 impreza wrx tr: cobb stage II - protuned by STi_Mikey!
hawk-eye alliance #11:11 // wingl3ss @ll!ance #17 // lvl 80 N.E.R.D.
Sounds like a mess, and he's blatantly lying about the CEL. Personally, I would avoid that car unless you're looking for a project and have the money set aside to replace the engine when it needs it.
You think I can find a reliable wrx below the $7500 range?
not completely impossible but you'll need patience and may need to travel a bit.
most bugeyes with higher mileage are in that price range. the key is just finding one thats not molested
desiree
your friendly, neighborhood subaru girl
06 impreza wrx tr: cobb stage II - protuned by STi_Mikey!
hawk-eye alliance #11:11 // wingl3ss @ll!ance #17 // lvl 80 N.E.R.D.
to replace the tgv valve is pretty simple, there common for being stuck open or closed.
Originally Posted by Subaru1229
My issue isn't with the TGV, it's the fact that the seller is lying about the car from the start. And if you still have the brackets of death on there then R&Ring the intake manifold isn't exactly a simple task.. not to mention the valve would be pretty hard to fix if it isn't there.
Honestly, I would be more concerned about the knock sensor.
yeah I read about the tgv deletes, what about the knock sensor.....would you trust this subie?
Just to get an idea where I'm coming from.. I bought my second bugeye in 2008 for $11k. It was modded by the previous owner and ran great. 300awhp when I picked it up. It continued running good for ONE DAY after I bought it. I figured I would just fix it and have a good car. Now it's 2012, I've spent over $15,000 rebuilding the engine FOUR times and it has only been drivable for about six months out of the last three years. Not to mention two divorces in part due to the fact that I refuse to sell the car because I could never get back the money I have invested in it at this point.
So it's your call. If you've got plenty of cash and another car to drive while this one gets fixed then I guess you don't have too much to worry about.
And in case you're wondering, my car is still not running right and it's going in next month to have the engine rebuilt a fifth time.
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