Tips on Stage 2 and Stage 3 Setup

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  • Base Stage 2 is fine where it is

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This is a discussion on Tips on Stage 2 and Stage 3 Setup within the Builds forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Hey, how's it going. New to club wrx because i got myself a 2012 wrx JUST yesterday. I've done hours ...

  1. #1
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    Tips on Stage 2 and Stage 3 Setup

    Hey, how's it going. New to club wrx because i got myself a 2012 wrx JUST yesterday. I've done hours of research and now i want your guys opinion. What I'm looking to get out of this forum is to see if you guys have had experience with the parts listed below and want to know how you feel about them. Also, would like to know if there are better brands for the parts listed below. I will very much appreciate the input. Last thing, was wondering how much hp i would most likely be receiving with just the stage 2 setup. I'm more interested on that part because that's all the money i have for it right now. Thanks!

    Stage 2 (strong) Build

    Gimmick Motorsports Turbo Inlet Hose
    perrin cold air intake
    Tomei Expreme equal Exhaust Maniflod
    COBB Tuning Downpipe Catted Bellmouth
    HIFLOW EXHAUST MANIFOLD CROSSPIPE
    nameless sedan midpipe wrx
    Nameless Performance Muffler Delete
    Snow Performance Cooler Water/Methanol Injection Kit
    cobb tuning accessport
    COBB Drivetrain Package w/ Black/Red Knob

    Stage 3 (weak)

    Blouch TD06H-20GXT-R Billet Ball Bearing Turbo 8cm^2
    Injector Dynamics Fuel Injectors Top Feed 1000cc
    Walbro Fuel Pump Kit 255lph
    AIR/OIL SEPARATOR iag
    JE Pistons Eagle Rods Combo
    COMPOSITE TGV DELETE HOUSINGS
    ACT Heavy Duty Performance Street Disc Clutch Kit
    Last edited by josfern123; 09-24-2015 at 02:53 PM.

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  3. #2
    Registered User ConBroMitch's Avatar
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    All this engine work and nothing for the driveline, brakes, suspension or tires.
    Edit: Just saw the clutch listed. most of my point still stands though.

    Here's my .02

    Since you JUST got the car, I would mod it as you see fit after owning it for a longer period of time. Don't just dump $10k into a car without getting to know it/address what YOU think are pitfalls in performance.

    Here is a rough timeline of what I would suggest:
    Stick with Stock for a few months. (Lame I know)
    Then go Stage 1 (Cobb OTS tune or ProTune)
    After that, go light stage 2 (Tune, Turboback exhaust)
    Then gradually add parts from there as you see fit.

    Probably not what you wanted to hear, but hey, it's your car. You don't need to listen to a stranger on the internet
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  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by josfern123 View Post
    Blouch TD06H-20GXT-R Billet Ball Bearing Turbo 8cm^2 $1600 I'd suggest a DOM setup over the 20GXTR
    DeatschWerks Fuel Injectors Top Feed 850cc $550 Injector Dynamics ID1000s > "Dontworks"
    perrin TOP FEED FUEL RAIL KIT  $550 Unecessary. Stock fuel rails are up to the task
    Walbro Fuel Pump Kit 255lph $120
    AIR/OIL SEPARATOR $425 Go with IAG's version
    ELECTRONIC BOOST CONTROL SOLENOID 3-PORT $110
    Tomei Valve Guide Set Intake $320 Seems unecessary for this.
    Gates Racing Timing Belt $155 Does the car have 105,000 miles arleady?
    JE Pistons Eagle Rods Combo $850 Why build the motor?
    LIGHTWEIGHT MAIN PULLEY $135 Unecessary.
    COMPOSITE TGV DELETE HOUSINGS $220
    COBB Drivetrain Package w/ Black/Red Knob $250
    ACT Heavy Duty Performance Street Disc Clutch Kit $700 Seems unecessary if your stock clutch is not slipping
    Snow Performance Cooler Water/Methanol Injection Kit $480 I'd do Aquamist, but that's me

    You mentioned rods and pistons. Are you building the motor? Where are your bearings, gaskets, head studs/bolts, general hardware? A rebuild is usually around $5k or more. Also, all this and no Equal Length Header? How about EWG? These are your best two power adders short of head work

    Total cost $9466 (includes $3000 for stage 2 base)
    EDIT: You mentioned ELH in the first section.
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    Village Idiot McBill's Avatar
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    That's a pretty crazy list... When I was reading through your post and seeing "stage 2" I was thinking you were meaning like Cobb's stage 2 build. Before I make any suggestions on the first part (zax covered the second pretty well) let me ask a question. What are your goals with your "stage 2", I have a good list for you to start but I want to hear your answer first.
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    Quote Originally Posted by McBill View Post
    That's a pretty crazy list... When I was reading through your post and seeing "stage 2" I was thinking you were meaning like Cobb's stage 2 build. Before I make any suggestions on the first part (zax covered the second pretty well) let me ask a question. What are your goals with your "stage 2", I have a good list for you to start but I want to hear your answer first.
    the overall goal for stage two is to get from 265 hp to 330 hp with a tune. i dont want to push the car to hard with stock internals but i do want the most out of it to where its safe with stage 2

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    Quote Originally Posted by ConBroMitch View Post
    All this engine work and nothing for the driveline, brakes, suspension or tires.
    Edit: Just saw the clutch listed. most of my point still stands though.

    Here's my .02

    Since you JUST got the car, I would mod it as you see fit after owning it for a longer period of time. Don't just dump $10k into a car without getting to know it/address what YOU think are pitfalls in performance.

    Here is a rough timeline of what I would suggest:
    Stick with Stock for a few months. (Lame I know)
    Then go Stage 1 (Cobb OTS tune or ProTune)
    After that, go light stage 2 (Tune, Turboback exhaust)
    Then gradually add parts from there as you see fit.

    Probably not what you wanted to hear, but hey, it's your car. You don't need to listen to a stranger on the internet
    yeah i was planning on doing it this way. i just like preparing ahead of time. thanks for the feedback!

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by zax View Post
    My responses in red.



    EDIT: You mentioned ELH in the first section.
    Thanks, appreciate the feed back. will make sure to update the list.

  9. #8
    zax
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    Quote Originally Posted by josfern123 View Post
    the overall goal for stage two is to get from 265 hp to 330 hp with a tune. i dont want to push the car to hard with stock internals but i do want the most out of it to where its safe with stage 2
    You understand that 265 =/= wheel horsepower right?

    330 crank horsepower is roughly 265whp and is achievable with just an ECU recalibration.
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    Quote Originally Posted by zax View Post
    You understand that 265 =/= wheel horsepower right?

    330 crank horsepower is roughly 265whp and is achievable with just an ECU recalibration.
    yeah sorry, i meant 330 whp and i want it to run only on 10 psi for dd and about 350-360 whp for track days

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    Quote Originally Posted by josfern123 View Post
    yeah sorry, i meant 330 whp and i want it to run only on 10 psi for dd and about 350-360 whp for track days
    10 PSI? Why this number? Seems a bit silly.
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  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by zax View Post
    10 PSI? Why this number? Seems a bit silly.
    like 10-11 psi. i want low boost just to save me from temptation of driving fast until my points all come off (like 6 months) lol

  13. #12
    zax
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    Quote Originally Posted by josfern123 View Post
    like 10-11 psi. i want low boost just to save me from temptation of driving fast until my points all come off (like 6 months) lol
    How much experience do you have driving on the track and with which cars?
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    Quote Originally Posted by zax View Post
    How much experience do you have driving on the track and with which cars?
    ive only gone couple of times and it was with my 2012 mustang.

  15. #14
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    330whp with 10psi is the same as 330whp with 15psi is the same as 330whp with 20psi.

    Running a big turbo with low boost isn't going to make you speed any less than a smaller turbo with higher boost.

    Actually... if you can't keep your foot out of it enough to avoid tickets than a stock WRX is more than quick enough to get you plenty of those...

    As far as your power goals go... I think if you went with turbo back, intake, 3port EBCS, and a bigger/better TMIC with a protune you could probably hit 330whp pretty easily.
    When in doubt, just go faster.

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  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Monk_Knight View Post
    330whp with 10psi is the same as 330whp with 15psi is the same as 330whp with 20psi.

    Running a big turbo with low boost isn't going to make you speed any less than a smaller turbo with higher boost.

    Actually... if you can't keep your foot out of it enough to avoid tickets than a stock WRX is more than quick enough to get you plenty of those...

    As far as your power goals go... I think if you went with turbo back, intake, 3port EBCS, and a bigger/better TMIC with a protune you could probably hit 330whp pretty easily.
    Not true. This depends on the torque curve.

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