Lavid2002's 04 WRX Build Thread
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This is a discussion on Lavid2002's 04 WRX Build Thread within the Builds forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Hello Everyone, Here is my build of a 2004 Subaru WRX. I picked this car up as a project car ...

  1. #1
    Registered User Lavid2002's Avatar
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    Lavid2002's 04 WRX Build Thread

    Hello Everyone,

    Here is my build of a 2004 Subaru WRX. I picked this car up as a project car for me and Mark; He is a friend of mine who is learning about cars. I pulled an engine for this guy a long time ago, and he never got the coin together to put a new engine in it so he called me up and asked me if I wanted to buy it. You know the rest.

    I enjoy projects like this, and attention to detail. I will be selling this car when I am finished. This is meant to be an interactive "Build" thread meant to help other people. I know a lot of people would like to wrench on their own stuff but maybe they don't have anyone to show them how strait forward it is, so if you have questions about any parts of this car that I'll be working on please ask and I will show you what I can!

    Here is the link to a 2005 Forester that I built. It put out 282 WHP and 315 Ft/Lb. after I fiddled with it a bit.
    http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulle...thread-157969/

    Let's get started on the build !
    There will be a lot of pictures.
    I got the car towed to my driveway and I cleaned it out. It has been a couple years since I touched any of these parts, and I never messed with the interior.



    Cleaning out the interior (It started snowing)



    End of Day one...
    D-$

    Blobeye '05

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    Registered User Lavid2002's Avatar
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    We pulled most of the the brake and suspension components today. Old Tein springs. The front calipers were also seized.


    I am shopping around now for an engine. I don't think I am going to build one for this car. I think I am going to buy a plug an play used engine with a warranty and just drop it in.

    This is what I'm working with right now though. Lol

    -Dave
    D-$

    Blobeye '05

  4. #3
    Registered User Lavid2002's Avatar
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    So I went ahead and bought almost everything I need for the car. (Shy of fluids and a few odds and ends)
    Here's a list

    -EJ205 Long block including all accessories, motor mounts, turbo, exhaust, wiring harness, etc... The works. A plug and play engine

    -Suspension (Shocks, springs, and tophats) from an 04 WRX with 33,000 miles on them from AZ, that means no rust
    -Front Calipers (Used from the same car with 33k on it)

    The rest are new components I bought for the car
    -Gates timing belt kit (Tensioner, idlers, and water pump)
    -Exhaust gaskets
    -Front and rear rotors
    -Front and rear brake pads
    -Front P.S. Axle
    -Exedy KSB03 Clutch kit (Clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, and throw out bearing)
    -Front P.S. ball joint
    -Spark plugs
    -Fuel Filter
    -Windshield wipers
    -Valve cover gasket kit (O-rings and grommets)

    Everything should be here by friday
    D-$

    Blobeye '05

  5. #4
    Registered User Lavid2002's Avatar
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    It's like christmas getting all these parts in the mail.

    The weather finally gave in a little so I washed up the car. I got a used engine with 67k on it shipped right to my driveway. Mark took started the teardown and it looks like someone has been taking care of it. The insides are pristine.

    Learning how to check valve lash.
    Two exhaust valves on the DS were out of spec so we are going to pull the cams and put some thinner shims in.



    Also, when the car was sitting the squirrels built a nest in the engine bay.
    Here's what they nibbled on
    -P.S. Grounding Wire
    -Cruise control module (Right at the plug! >:|)
    -Throttle and cruise control cables
    -MAF sensor wiring
    -Brake fluid level sensor wire

    So I started trimming back the conduit so I can solder in some new wires before the engine goes in. This work is much more pleasant when I can just stand in the engine bay.


    -Dave
    D-$

    Blobeye '05

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    Registered User Lavid2002's Avatar
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    So I got those shims from a local dealership.


    I'm doing any service work that should be done while the engine is out. Working on this engine on the stand is like typing on a keyboard, it's great.

    A lot of this work is all about gasket surface prep. Do it right the first time or you'll be in there again on you'll be in there again but next time you'll be on your back with a million parts in the way. I prep surfaces with a razor blade, then use brake cleaner to make sure it's perfect. I use permatex ultra black for oil pans. I put most on the pan, and I get the block covered with a thin film too for good adhesion.




    Same thing with the oil pump
    D-$

    Blobeye '05

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    Registered User Lavid2002's Avatar
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    The valve lash is within spec all around now. We re-sealed both cam caps, put in new cam seals on all 4 cams, and put a new valve gasket set in (Grommets, spark plug o-rings, and valve cover o-rings)

    We also put the new water pump on w/ a new gasket, and a new gasket for the thermostat. I am re-using the old thermostat though, the OEM ones have never done me wrong.
    D-$

    Blobeye '05

  8. #7
    Registered User Lavid2002's Avatar
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    Moving right along

    The timing components are on with the new water pump. Timing covers are on etc...
    I put some new spark plugs in


    Mark put the new clutch on. It's pretty simple to do. The flywheel was re-surfaced a long time ago and I covered it in grease when it sat around, so luckily that fresh surface was preserved and I didn't have to cut it again.

    So Mark pressed the input shaft bearing in.


    Then he torqued the flywheel to the crank shaft in a star pattern.
    When I am torquing a lot of bolts like this I just dab em with some white out to remember which ones I've done.


    Clutch alignment tool slides in so the input shaft on the transmission will slide into the clutch and the input shaft bearing nicely when we drop the engine in.


    Torque that pressure plate down in a star pattern and then remove the alignment tool and voila! Clutches are easy


    We put a breaker bar on the harmonic balancer bolt and tied it to the engine to keep the crankshaft still while we torqued things.

    So this engine is ready to drop in, but I still have to clean the engine bay and fix the wiring that the squirrels nibbled on.

    It is easier to do these things when I can stand in the engine bay and work instead of working around the engine, so I will do it now.

    I first attached some extra wire to the MAF sensor plug that I had like so

    It's best to do this on the bench because it's easier. Then I take these wires and tie them into the cars wiring harness just playing the color matching game.

    Here is how I solder wires. Some people use a different method, but this is how I do it

    Strip the wires, slide a section of heat shrink tubing around one wire and slide it aside for now, and lay the wires parallel to one another, then twist one around the other.
    Then I take a dab of flux, the size of a fingernail, and smear it on the wires.
    Then I hit the wires with some heat from the soldering iron so the flux melts and gets all over those wires.

    The flux is very nice because it takes the oxidation and grease off the wires so when I melt some solder on them it sucks right into the wires. Some people struggle with soldering but it's really a very simple process. If the solder isn't flowing into the wires it's usually because
    -You don't have enough heat
    -You didn't put some flux on that motha'
    -The wires aren't clean


    This is a two handed step, but I tried to snap a picture. I hold the soldering iron on the wires, heating them up. Then I feed the solder into the iron and it melts into the joint.



    Heat shrink with a propane torch (A lighter works fine also)


    Then I throw some conduit over the exposed wires and tie everything up nicely with some electrical tape. If you popped the hood you'd never know anything was ever wrong with the wiring harness. Nice professional job that will last the rest of this WRXs life... Or until some squirrel chews it up again.
    D-$

    Blobeye '05

  9. #8
    Registered User Lavid2002's Avatar
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    The front passenger side wheel bearing felt a little rough when I spun the hub, so I decided to put a new bearing in while everything is apart. Better to do it right the first time, and easier to do it now while everything is apart so why not?
    I didn't record pulling the spindle and bearing apart, but with some intuition you can figure out how to do that by reversing these steps.
    Here's how I put em back together.
    You need new seals also. The fronts have 2 and the rear spindles have 3 seals.

    See how the bearings in there don't have much grease on em? I don't like that. These bearings are like 40 clams and they don't even grease them all that well. If you put a bearing in like this the grease goes to the sides and the bearing gets starved of lubrication and burns up. So I always like to re-pack them.
    Glove up, put a slab of grease in your palm, and press the bearing into the grease. Do this over and over and the grease pushes up into the bearing crevices. If it starts to look like a grown mans betty spaghetti of sorts, you're doin' it right.

    Work your way all around both bearings like this.

    Then we press the race into the spindle. I throw a light coating a grease in the spindle to help lube the race as I press it in, and to keep things from rusting up over time.


    Ideally we'd like to press only on the race and not on the bearings, so if only we had something the exact same diameter as the bearing race to press it in with.
    The old race is perfect



    You can feel it bottom out on the press very easily, so stop there. No reason to crush anything.

    Clean off the grease and make sure the bearing is in far enough so you can put the snap ring back in. This little guy will hold the bearing in place.



    This is the rotating surface of the grease seal. So I'm going to hit it with the wire wheel to clean it up. Any imperfections on this will eat the seal as it rotates and ruin it.


    And when I put the seal on I will put some grease on the rotating surface so it doesn't burn up the seal. Dry rubber on steel has a lot of friction.

    So now we could press the hub into the bearing that's in the spindle, but that puts a lot of pressure on the bearings and I don't like doing that.
    So we need something that is the same diameter as the bearing but large enough to slip over the hub. The old bearing is perfect
    Note how I tossed that oil seal on there, it won't fit once the bearing is pressed on. I have forgotten this before, and you destroy the bearings removing them. Don't forget to put that motha' on.



    Now I'll use this bearing tool to pull the 'tool bearing' off the hub.
    It takes almost no force at all. We barely need the press.


    Here it is almost all the way out so you know what I'm doing here


    Voila


    So now we're going to press the hub into the bearing on the other side of the spindle. This will sandwich the rotor and race in the middle, and complete our bearing. I just barely snug this guy up. I use my pinky on the press to snug these, almost no force at all. We want the hub to spin nicely so once you feel it bottom out leave it. Also, the axle nut will snug things up more if they need to be when you torque it to 100 something ft/lb then stake it in place.



    Then press the rear seal in with the old bearing race and a rubber mallet.


    Remember the front seal though? We don't really have a way to press that in because the hub is in the way. So put a flathead in there and twist it to push the seal into the spindle so it seats properly. Then you're done!



    A new spindle is ~250 bucks, and a bearing is ~40 bucks. A press from HF is only 120 clams. So it pays for itself in one bearing, plus you get an excuse to buy awesome tools.
    Simple right?

    Engine should go in this weekend.
    Last edited by Lavid2002; 03-27-2014 at 09:02 PM.
    D-$

    Blobeye '05

  10. #9
    Registered User Lavid2002's Avatar
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    Scrubbed up the engine bay today.



    Then, before you drop the engine in, you have to put the clutch fork and the slave cylinder in. A-like-so


    Then we dropped that engine in

    It's pretty simple. Just put a jack under the transmission to lift it up, slide the engines 2 bottom studs into the transmission, and wiggle it into place. Bolt it up to the bellhousing, then lower the engine motor mount studs into the sub frame of the car.


    D-$

    Blobeye '05

  11. #10
    Registered User Lavid2002's Avatar
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    Drained the gear oil out of the rear differential.
    Whoever did the rear diff last put the magnetic drain plug in the filler plug position up top.... :|


    Slapped a couple new wiper blades on


    Drained the transmission fluid also, this one uses a large torx bit


    The transmission got half a bottle of synchromesh and the rest 80w90 castrol limited slip. The Rear diff got all 80w90 Castrol limited slip.


    There was about half a tank of gas in the car when it sat for years. It's a safe bet to say that fuel is no good. So I bought as new fuel filter for the car, but I haven't installed it yet. Here's what I'm going to do. I hooked up all the fuel lines except the line from the tank. When you turn the key to the engine on position it primes the fuel system and builds pressure by running the tank for about 3 seconds. I Just cycled the key a bunch of times to use the pump to empty the tank.
    Here's the fuel. It looks orange 0.o


    I am going to put some fresh gas in the tank and repeat to make sure it's cleaned out. Then I'll put the new fuel filter on and hook the line up to the fuel rails.
    D-$

    Blobeye '05

  12. #11
    Registered User Lavid2002's Avatar
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    I got this awesome work light for my birthday, so no more working in the dark! Consequently no more dark photos
    Topped off the coolant today. Aside from a few more small things we're almost all done. I punched a hole in the condenser so the car got a replacement out of an STi.
    D-$

    Blobeye '05

  13. #12
    Registered User wreckingball man's Avatar
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    Some good sweat equity there. Nice job

  14. #13
    Pro Manscaper Mikie13's Avatar
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    Been a cool thread to read through. Pretty good little bearing tutorial there!
    The Hawk-Eye Alliance #90|The Blobeye Syndicate #0|The Stink-Eye Mob #0|N.E.R.D. Founding Member & #3
    2012 Lightning Red WRX Sedan
    Stock...for now Soon to be OpenSource tuned by: Mattypants @ WTF Tuning

  15. #14
    Registered User Lavid2002's Avatar
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    Thanks a lot guys

    If you can think of anything else you'd like to see like more pix, certain procedures, or any other advice for future build threads I'm all ears.

    I went to the gas station today and got some fuel. I put about a gallon in the tank and drained it again using the same method. Then I put about 5 gallons in and by now it's coming out perfect. So I changed the fuel filter.



    After this I disconnected the CPS (Crankshaft position sensor) so the car wouldn't generate spark because it can't read the cranks position. You can unplug it without removing any parts, so it's very convenient. Mark cranked the car for 5~10 second intervals until we got oil pressure, then we kept cranking for a while to make sure we had oil circulated to all the bearings and what not.
    Then I hooked up the CPS and started it up.
    D-$

    Blobeye '05

  16. #15
    Registered User Lavid2002's Avatar
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    Went to the junk yard today and got some bolts for the rear suspension.


    Spent some time pulling this "Viper" Alarm system out. I think the viper alarms are supposed to be good alarm systems, but I don't trust any of the work or wiring the previous owner did. His work was shotty but this viper system looked to be professionally installed. That being said, I still want a stock car so I pulled handfulls of wire out of the car. The car also got an OEM dash clock back where the alarm system used to be.


    Suspension is completely finished. The car is getting brand new pads and rotors all around. The old front calipers were bad so it's getting calipers from the same car that the suspension came from (33,000 miles)

    Mark doin' some work.


    The wheels have really bugged me on this car. They have been spray painted with this thick wrinkly coat of some shade of gray paint. It kills the car :/
    It's going to be a ton of scrubbing, but I'm going to strip the wheels and paint them. No sense in doing all
    D-$

    Blobeye '05

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