This is a discussion on Rambo Goes Down Under within the Builds forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Updates!
*Got the 60k mile service done.
,100 later ( ), and I had all new fluids errywhere, new plugs ...
*Got the 60k mile service done. $1,100 later (), and I had all new fluids errywhere, new plugs (which are even more a of PITA to do than the 4cyl cars), a new driver's front axle, my derailed moonroof fixed, and a bunch of other general mainteance tasks done. I'm sure I could have saved money doing it all myself, but I had a lot of other things to do, and the dealer gave me a free XV Crosstrek for the weekend, so I just let them handle it.
*Peeled off the red plastidip from the bugeye's winter steelies and installed them on the Outback. The 16" wheels make a huge wheel gap, but it's not as noticeable with the matte black steelies. Set a new personal record with a 20 minute wheel swap using just a floor jack.
*Replaced the cracked leather e-brake boot with an alacantara one. The color isn't as close of a match as I'd hoped for, so I'm going to get a fabric dye and darken it several shades. The alacantara is much more flexible though, and should never crack.
*Ordered some Osram Rallye H7 headlight bulbs: Osram Rallye 64217 65w Ultra High Output H7 Special-Service Bulb
From my research, these are supposed to be the best H7 bulb on the market, and will replace my adequate, but not outstanding factory low beams. Hopefully these will tide me over until I do a full TRS retrofit. I was tempted to pick up a pair of HIR bulbs for the high beams, but I decided to hold off for now.
*I'll be removing the 1-1/4" hitch receiver that came with the car when I bought it. The small hitch isn't really useful for anything but a bike rack, and I have roof-mounted bike racks, so I don't have any need for it. I'll be replacing it with a proper 2" receiver and trailer wiring (it doesn't have any wiring right now). I don't intend on towing more than 1500lbs at most, which is well within the 3500lb tow capacity.
I continue to be very pleased with the Outback. With the snow tires on, it has grip for days, regardless of terrain, and the 5-level heated seats have been useful on the 20 degree commutes to work. The ride is very smooth, so much so that my wife's Honda now feels downright primitive by comparison.
In stock mode, the transmission can be a bit dim-witted, but click it over to sport mode, and that disappears. If the 5eat ever gives out, I'll probably try to find the six-speed manual from a Spec B, or a JDM-sourced unit (which was offered on the Australian 3.0R Outbacks, but not over here), but everything I've read indicates the 5eat is quite stout and very reliable, as is the 3.0R engine itself.
Quite the wheel gap. How much smaller is that wheel/tire combo than the stockers? Are you "hoping" the tranny goes out so you can swap it?
The winters are 205/55-R16 and the summer are 225/55-R17, so yeah, it's about a 1" diameter difference. That said, Subaru primarily increased the Outback ride height over the Legacy by adding spacers to the perches, and only adding slightly longer struts, so there's quite a gap even with the stock configuration (see the first pic in this thread).
Originally Posted by wrx650
No, I'm not looking to ruin the transmission in any way, but if it happens, it happens, and I'll evaluate my options at that point.
I was expecting some aberrant lovechild between Sylvester Stalone and Paul Hogan.
We really really like our Outback, albeit a '98 2.5l
"From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
"The stitch is lost unless the thread is knotted." - Italian proverb
I was curious because you talked about a supercharger. I actually just read an article today about a guy using a supercharger from a Mercedes in his Forrester.
Originally Posted by Rambo
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
Well, the going rate for a S/C kit for the 3.0R is around $7k, from Raptor Superchargers in Australia. That will get you about 400 crank hp with proper tuning. While it would be an interesting build, and probably an exceedingly rare build for the US, the cost to benefit ratio doesn't really make sense. Cobb was considering making a S/C kit for the Outback range a few years ago, but apparently couldn't drum up enough interest in the Legacy and Outback forums. Too bad, since it would have included the S/C, an AP, an intercooler, and all fittings/plumbing. It's just too small of a market, I guess.
Originally Posted by wrx650
Last edited by Rambo; 12-03-2013 at 02:07 PM.
Yeah, the majority of the people with the 3.0R aren't going to mess with it. 7k doesn't seem worth it. The guy with the fozzy was running 6 psi of boost and only got around 250 whp. It sure would be cool, though
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
I did the old "H9 bulbs in H11 sockets" conversion for my wife's car. I swear her stock H11s were dangerously dim, and I'm not an ALL THE HIDZ!!! kind of guy. The new bulbs were a cheap mod and are much better.
I also installed Osram Rallye H7s in the Outback. These were a drop-in replacement for the stock H7 bulbs, but are a popular bulb in the Candlepower forums.
Here are the stock low-beams:
Here are the Osram Rallyes (taken from the same spot and camera exposure:
As you can see, much brighter front and center, but the beam cut-off is the same, as the filament location and focal point is the same as before. It also illuminates a wider spread than before, which is nice. All in all, that's $36 well-spent!
I also replaced the burned-out license plate bulbs with LEDs. I normally dislike putting LEDs in this spot because so often people put the brightest bulbs they can find in there and have a super-bright roving advertisement of their license number. These aren't bad, though, and are only about as bright as the stock bulbs, although of course the color is different. Cheaper than new incandescent bulbs at only $2 shipped, and I'll never need to touch them again.
Well, with the exception of the OEM uppipe and swaybar, all the leftover bugeye parts I had stashed around the garage are gone.
The good news is I now have over $600 of mod money burning a hole in my pocket.
After talking to reps at Rally Innovations, Primitive Racing, and Gorilla Offroad, I'm unfortunately not able to source a discreet light bar that suits my goals. The RI isn't sturdy enough (just two bolts!), the Gorilla costs too much to ship (cross-country shipping for steel frame sucks), and the Primitive, while local to me, is a bit more invasive than I'm looking for (requires boring into the bumper).
I'm going to have to put my Rigid Industries LED bar plans on the back burner for the present, although I did order HIR bulbs for my high beams, so there's that at least.
Next up is audio, and fortunately I'm making some headway on this one. The factory audio is a Panasonic in-dash 6-CD changer with 6-speaker audio, an AUX-input, and iPod-input via proprietary cable (no USB port). It's a similar setup to the 2007 Impreza with one key distinction: the head-unit is integrated with the dual climate controls, making it virtually non-replaceable (unless you spend $$$$ to do THIS).
Thanks to that little "Up yours, audio installers!" on Subaru's part, I'm having to design my sound upgrades around the factory head unit, which has been challenging, but not impossible. The first goal is to add a subwoofer. The hideous 8" underseat subwoofer box offered for most Subarus since the dawn of time is the only factory audio "upgrade" available for my year of Legacy, and since I know firsthand how awful that thing was in my WRX, I'm looking beyond that to a custom sub-box built into the right rear cargo area, similar to the incredibly expensive and now discontinued JL Stealthbox: STEALTHBOX
I'll be sourcing a 12" sub from Pioneer or JL Audio (final choice to be determined based on the volume of the sub box once completed). I'll be getting a mono amp to match the sub, and the audio source will be provided by a LOC tapped off the factory rear channels (factory HU has no subwoofer line-out ).
Depending on how my budget works out, I may replace the simple LOC with a more sophisticated 4 channel audio processor (the factory tweeters are simply slaved to the front doors with capacitors, creating a basic analog high-pass filter, they are not actually on their own audio channels. This is true for Imprezas as well).
TL;DR: I'm droppin' da bass, yo.
Honestly, consider going smaller with the sub, Isaac...a properly enclosed 8" or 10" sub with reasonable power is more than enough for what you're looking for, I'm sure.
My 250W-powered JL 10W3 is perfect for giving a kick in the seat while maintaining a level of subtlety that doesn't annoy drivers around me (even with the minimal sound deadening material in the STI, you can barely hear it outside the car). My buddy had a custom 8" enclosure (same person who designed mine) and it was perfect for the '08 WRX sedan that he had; I don't remember what he was driving it with, but it wasn't a lot of power.
2016 Toyota Tacoma TRD Off-Road - Daily
2005 WRX STi
| Virtual Dyno
) - Toy
Resident Tuner @ WTF Tuning
"Never trust anything that bleeds for a week and lives ..."UNYSOC
Good points. I'm debating between a 10 or 12. I have enough space for 12, but I'm not sure how the acoustics of the wagon work out compared to the 10" I had in the sedan. I was looking at the 10" JL (you recommended it before), but I might go for a 12" Pioneer that better suits the calculated sub box volume (and also has better cone and surround materials).
Originally Posted by EJ257
id go 10", unless you are 16 and like to bump to the 12s as you hit vtec..oh wait that was me fml.
i have the stock under the seat sub in my bug and its enough but ill upgrade to one 10" because i feel that would be enough, perhaps even an 8"....one day, the stock audio is bearable.
good luck with whatever your future plans are.
don't you have any friends who can fab up a light bar? paint or powder coat and install some hella 500's and call it a day?
I have always run 10" subwoofers in all of my car audio sets ups. I think they sound much better if powered correctly. They can hit much faster. My last set up I had a single Alpine type R 10" sub powered with a mono amp (probably running around 500 rms) and it would get much louder than I needed, but still sounded perfect at low volumes. Just wanted to share my experience. Good luck!
I do have a contact at local machine shop. Maybe I'll take some measurements, make something up in CAD, and see what they can do for me. Who knows, maybe I could even sell a couple of 'em?
Originally Posted by Ruh Roh
Hella 500s? Where we're going we don't need no stinkin' Hella 500s....