My '13 Blurple Hatch
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This is a discussion on My '13 Blurple Hatch within the Builds forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; This is guna be an unusual build thread. No tuning, engine upgrades, or anything of that nature at least until ...

  1. #1
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    My '13 Blurple Hatch

    This is guna be an unusual build thread. No tuning, engine upgrades, or anything of that nature at least until the warranty is up. But you can enjoy the audio goodness until then.

    I drive at least 2 hours a day and the stock system was killing me, so I started getting all the necessities.

    HeadUnit: Kenwood DDX470
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    Got the idea to start the log after i installed the Headunit, but the harness is from ae64.com (including the AUX and USB adapters for the stock locations as well as the Axxess module for the steering wheel controls.) Microphone is mounted on top of the steering column for now.

    Oh, and the Double Din bezel is on order (ugliness is only temporary )

    Audio Technix Sound Deadener :
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    Heard about a sale cause the company was changing names and getting rid of the stock with the old name on it (or something like that). 40 sq ft for $105 shipped. Not a bad deal.

    Front/Rear Speaker Spacers: From subaruaudio.net (awesome customer service and quick turn around).
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    made for image dynamic components and coaxials that i'm still waiting on.

    Sub Amp: Sundown Audio SAZ-1000D Mono Ch. (clamped at 1040 watts at 13 volts with a 1.3 ohm load)
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    still haven't decided on what ohm load i'm guna run it on, but Will be running a SA-8 v2 sub (8") in a 0.75 cu ft ported box tuned to 33Hz (on order from Davetheboxguy.com)

    Stinger 4 gauge OFC wire (just to see the actual wire gauge vs plastic jacket)
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    Misc: 4 ch RCA (front and rear speakers), 15 sq ft (x2) duct insulation, rubber weather stripping 10 ft (x2), HVAC tape
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    this is to go with the sound deadening. the duct insulation is a cheap (but effective, as suggestive by subaruaudio.net) alternative to more expensive barrier membrane materials. plan is to use the deadener to kill vibrations, and the insulation to block any noises that come through the deadener. the weather stripping is to get rid of all the little "rattles" that exist now and that i'm sure will come out once i get the system installed. and the HVAC tape is for added protection that none of the materials come off (sealing the seams).

    Stinger Sub Amp Wiring Kit (along with some UCONN pride): Impulse buy
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    bought it on impulse but i'm going to be using a fused distribution power block after re-thinking it. but the good news is that I can still use the power cable to wire both the amps, unfortunately the fuse block will go unused but the fuse can be used in the block.

    Things I'm still waiting on:

    the Sub, the box, Big 3 wiring kit, 2 gauge power wire (from battery to distribution block), 4 feet of black ground cable, 10 gauge speaker wire (sub) and 16 gauge speaker wire (front/rear). probably over kill on the wire gauge, but that's the way i like to do it.

    I'll take pictures when i get all the stuff in and have time to do an install.

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  3. #2
    Moderator T0rque's Avatar
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    So you are doing audio installs because you are worried about warranty and installing performance parts/voiding warranty.
    Any aftermarket parts regardless of performance or audio will void the warranty all the same..

    Good luck.


    Lead Wrench @ WTF Tuning, LLC

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    alright, let me rephrase. I'm doing audio first because that's what i choose to do. Also, I still haven't gotten that "I NEED MORE POWER" feeling yet.

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    Gotcha. Cuz if its a warranty thing.. Dude, you bought a Subaru.. Warranties don't exhist.


    Lead Wrench @ WTF Tuning, LLC

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    Quote Originally Posted by T0rque View Post
    So you are doing audio installs because you are worried about warranty and installing performance parts/voiding warranty.
    Any aftermarket parts regardless of performance or audio will void the warranty all the same..

    Good luck.
    Um no.
    You have a warranty period. If the warranty claim is to be denied they have to prove or provide good evidence that the modifications caused the failure. Good luck proving that an audio mod caused an engine/transmission failure. If you put a boost controller on then yeah they can claim that the increased boost may have caused knock etc.

  7. #6
    Registered User wrx frog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by T0rque View Post
    Gotcha. Cuz if its a warranty thing.. Dude, you bought a Subaru.. Warranties don't exhist.
    Your logic doesn't exist..

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    Administrator TheJ's Avatar
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    Nice stuff OP. keep us posted.


    Quote Originally Posted by wrx frog View Post
    Your logic doesn't exist..
    I beleive he was using hyperbole.
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    so the car is currently ripped apart, ran out of electric tape on the last door . Didn't want to put it all back together until i had finished wrapping the stock speaker and tweeter connections, as well as the factory door boot (front door ones are two pieces, who knew). i'll throw up pics and update after i finish this install.

    Only thing i don't have yet are my sub box from dave the box guy and the sub, but those are easily installed.

    Upadted List:

    Image Dynamics CTX65cs and coaxials
    Polk Audio PA-D4000.4 4ch amplifier
    Sundown SAZ-1000D mono amp
    10 gauge stinger sub speaker wire
    14 gauge stinger speaker wire (woofers)
    16 gauge stinger speaker wire (tweeters)
    big 3 upgrade (2 gauge JL audio wire split braided, with rockford fuse holder and stinger 125 amp fuse)
    power wire:
    from battery: 2 awg JL audio covered in split braid, rockford fuse holder and Stinger 200 amp fuse
    Rockford power distribution block, 2 runs of 4 awg stinger power wire going to the hatch under the carpet (distribution block is under center console), have a third output incase i want to go active setup in the future.
    Rockford ground distribution block in the hatch, 2 awg JL audio to the chasis, two runs 4 awg stinger with the option to add a third.

    Stinger 4 and 2 channel RCA's.

    Audiotechnix deadener, frostking dampener material (used for hvac systems) and hvac tape.

    crossovers are going to be velcro'd in the glove compartment, easily access, no moisture damage.

    the 4ch amp is in behind the rear tire wheel under the hatch floor, i had to butcher the little styrofoam spacer, but it doesn't hold any thing any way... it has a grey soubaru pouch in it, but its empty.

    pictures to come in a day or two

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    holy sundown

    box is taking awhile to come in, the wait is killer

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    with the DIN bezel (well worth it in my opinion)


    threw some deadener and then weather stripping on the spacers to add a little extra clearance and to cut down on any vibrations/seal the speaker to the spacer


    tweeters ended up being a little big for the stock sails, so off came the grill


    peeled off rather nicely, to my surprise


    had to shave some of the stock sail panel down to get it to fit, but once i was sure there was clearance i put waterproof caulking around the rim of the tweeter and pressed it into place (dome of the tweeter doesn't hit the stock sail panel grill). let it sit for 30 minutes before i put the panel back together

  12. #11
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    all mids and passovers were run with Stinger HPM 14 gauge wire, and the tweets got Stinger HPM pro 16 gauge


    test fitting the speaker (Image Dynamics CTX65 components and coaxials) before drilling mounting holes. I did this before i applied the deadener and weather stripping, would have done it after if i could do it again.


    passive crossovers mounted in the glove compartment with industrial strength velcro. easy access, no potential for water damage, air space for heat dissipation. oh, and no rattles


    just a picture of the back seat, kick panel, and door card ripped out.


    the grommet i ran the power wire through from the battery. its on the driver side. follow your hood latch wire and you'll see it. subaru was generous and left the top of the grommet for use to shove **** through. if you open your door and shine a light through you can see a wires wrapped in split loom. it looks like the grommet is lower than it actually is, the wires snake back up. if you don't want to take the wheel well cover and the "wrx" side panel off, i was able to use a 3 foot zip tie to get it all done. cut a small hole in the grommet. shoved the zip tie through from the inside. i was able to get at it through the crack in the door. i duct taped the power wire to the end of zip tie and pushed the power wire through the grommet. once it started going through i pulled and pushed to speed up the process. then with the wire hanging out of the crack of the door i took the ziptie and snaked it down from the engine bay into the wheel well and duct taped it to the power wire again (making sure not to drop it in the wheel well, cause then you have to take the cover off). then from there i just pulled it through the wheel well into the engine bay.


    power wire through the grommet covered in braided loom


    power distribution block is under the center console. i tried pulling the ebrake as hard as i could and i couldn't get it to contact it. plus its covered in plastic and ziptied to the carpet piece you see there. the two runs of 4 gauge go under the carpet into the hatch area.


    polk audio PAD4000.4 amp running the front components and rear coaxials. i hacked up the styrofoam that gives the hatch floor some rigidity. i also deadened and dampened the whole hatch (and well areas) so the amp is riding on a foam layer. i also threw on some rubber feet for good measure. i know it looks packed in there but it has air below and above it in that little well area and it can vent into the spare tires area. gets warm to the touch after my hour and a half commute. so until i have a problem with it that's where it's staying

    I have some 10 gauge Stinger HPM that i'll wire the sub up with. I'm just waiting for the box to show up from davetheboxguy and then i'll be set.

    0.75 cu ft, ported, tuned to 33Hz. the sub and aeroport will be back firing, and i spec'd it out to just take up the space behind the smaller fold down seat *while still fitting under the hatch/cargo hider thing (no idea what it's called, the thing you pull to hide **** in your hatch) so no one has a reason to break into the car.

    forgot to add that i grounded everything to the left rear seat belt attachment under the rear seat. i couldn't find a better place, plus it allowed me to sand down the paint around the ground and have it hidden.

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    i was just wondering if you could use the stock microphone instead of the one that comes with the head unit , id rather have my mic concealed.

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    i researched that a lot and i came to the conclusion that it wouldn't be an easy straight forward install trying to use the stock mic. i didn't read any posts that said anyone actually did it.

    you MAY be able to use the mic that comes with the HU and place it in the stock location.

    I just didn't feel like ripping apart the dash that much.

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    ruhroh

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