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This is a discussion on SheRa within the Builds forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Originally Posted by MainFrame I wouldn't get the six puck, engagement is harsh. I have the ACT HDSS right now ...

  1. #31
    Registered User bbrock171's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MainFrame View Post
    I wouldn't get the six puck, engagement is harsh. I have the ACT HDSS right now and it feels great (some say the pedal is heavy, but it doesn't bother me) . . It would hold 20g power just fine. I'm about to upgrade it with the XT pressure plate for my newest build, so hopefully it doesn't start slipping.
    That's exactly the info I was looking for. thanks. I don't mind a heavy pedal, but harsh engagement isnt going to work. So I guess that settles it. thanks again.

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  3. #32
    OMG WTF MainFrame's Avatar
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    Yeah, what I like about the ACT HDSS over the other clutches I have ran is that it doesn't shudder at all. Also, the engagement point is just right to me. It starts to grab after letting the clutch out about 10% and has smooth linear engagement from there up to about 90% of the way out. Two of my previous clutches didn't grab till 70% and would shudder like hell until fully engaged at 80%, basically all or nothing. Which is okay for changing gears quickly since I didn't have to push the pedal in that far, but they sucked balls in stop and go traffic.

  4. #33
    Registered User bbrock171's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MainFrame View Post
    Yeah, what I like about the ACT HDSS over the other clutches I have ran is that it doesn't shudder at all. Also, the engagement point is just right to me. It starts to grab after letting the clutch out about 10% and has smooth linear engagement from there up to about 90% of the way out. Two of my previous clutches didn't grab till 70% and would shudder like hell until fully engaged at 80%, basically all or nothing. Which is okay for changing gears quickly since I didn't have to push the pedal in that far, but they sucked balls in stop and go traffic.
    Wow that sounds perfect. I imagine it will be pretty well mannered, especially with an OE flywheel. Well, I guess it's decided. I'm placing my order. Might as well get it done now before I do the turbo.

  5. #34
    Registered User bbrock171's Avatar
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    Fuel pump went in this weekend.

    The retainer clips provided about 20min of fun.


    Placed my order for the turbo. Still going with the 20G XT-R instead of a big rotated setup because I need a stock location turbo and I'm a little more concerned with retaining power/torque on the left side of the dyno graph than I am getting big numbers on the right. ELH and turbo inlet are on their way, and I'm going to do TGV deletes while I have the intake manifold off for the inlet pipe. Might as well get injectors, inlet, TGV and turbo done all in one go once it shows up.

  6. #35
    Registered User bbrock171's Avatar
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    Turbo is here!



    Still no inlet pipe or header yet, but I want to get what work done that I can in the mean time. Doing injectors, tgv delete, inlet pipe, turbo and header/up-pipe combo all in one go, and this will be by far the most involved work I've done on the Sube so far. If anyone has any advice on how to proceed I'm all ears. I'm thinking I should do the injectors and tgv delete, then leave the intake manifold loose/off (engine covered, of course)until I get the inlet pipe and header, then remove the old turbo, swap the header/up-pipe, install new turbo, get the inlet pipe situated then start putting the intake manifold back on. Thoughts?

  7. #36
    Registered User bbrock171's Avatar
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    So that was the wrong turbo. It was a 20G XT, and I ordered a 20G XT-R. So it took me a few weeks to send it back and get the right turbo, but it's finally here.

    I started tearing everything down. Just got the turbo and uppipe off, which was the last step before putting it all back together. Let me just say I've heard all sorts of horrible things about how hard the uppipe is to replace. I've got to say it was probably the easiest part of this build, but that is with the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, TGVs, , turbo, downpipe and intercooler piping off, haha. Comes right out when half your engine bay is empty.

    The intake manifold, though, that was...an experience. I have the service manual, and even with that there are several surprises. I ended up separating the intake manifold from the TGVs because even though I followed the manual to the letter I couldn't get it out. I removed the bolts underneath connecting it to the massive wiring array, and once I got it disconnected I was able to remove the TGVs individually. I still couldn't get the wiring out like it said to in the manual because two wires on the driver's side were being pinched against the head by the AC compressor, and there was no clearance to pull it through without cutting the harnesses off. So I left the wiring in the car, and will have to install each TGV individually and then put the manifold back, same way I pulled it off.

    Anyway, here is a comparison picture of the turbos being swapped...


  8. #37
    Registered User bbrock171's Avatar
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    Ladies and gentlemen the build is finally complete, or as complete as it's going to be at this stage. It was my first time doing anything like this, so I was pretty excited to hear it crank right up the first time after my driveway installation and novice ECU tuning. It's getting protuned next week. Dyno numbers coming soon.

    Power mods:
    20G XT-R with 3" inlet compressor housing, 8cm2 hot side
    AVO 3" turbo inlet pipe
    AEM intake
    TGV deletes
    DW65C fuel pump
    ID1000 injectors
    Tomei ELH and Uppipe
    Invidia catless DP
    SPT catback
    FMS FMIC

    Other:
    Black side badges
    SPT STS
    Rally Armor mudflaps


  9. #38
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    SWEET!

  10. #39
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    looks and sounds great
    2011 Subaru WRX Premium
    1988 Ford Mustang GT
    2000 Jeep Wrangler TJ

  11. #40
    Registered User bbrock171's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. A couple things I wanted to document about the install for future reference...

    1) I'm in the process of very carefully burning off some spilled oil from the uppipe before taking it to get tuned. Unfortunately one of the fittings that came with the turbo was loose, and I didn't check it. So oil leaked all over the uppipe. I cleaned it as well as I can with carb cleaner and simple green, but the oil is just soaked into the fiberglass heat wrap, and where it's positioned it would be a nightmare to rewrap. So I'm keeping a fire extinguisher in hand and slowly letting the oil cook off making sure it doesn't catch fire. Yay...

    2) For anyone wanting to reduce the restriction in their intake tract without going rotated, I think a 3" inlet pipe is a good option. Overall the inlet pipe was easy to install. By easy, I mean it was easy once I already had the intake manifold off to do a TGV swap. The 3" AVO inlet I went with has a slight kink in it to allow clearance of the TGVs,and I installed it with the TGVs hooked up to the fuel lines, but not bolted down. The compressor housing presented a clearance issue with the crankcase breather port, but that was easily fixed by going to Advance and getting a heater hose with slightly less wall thickness. After that the intake manifold went back on easily by squishing the inlet pipe down ever so slightly to get the bolts to thread.

    3) Changing the spark plugs was quite a bit more difficult a task than the cars I remember working on as a kid. It didn't take long, but it was a pain.

    4) The turbo bolt holes and uppipe studs didn't line up. Same with the gasket.

  12. #41
    Registered User bbrock171's Avatar
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    Update: Trying to cook the oil off the uppipe was taking hours, so I gritted my teeth and took the heat wrap off to give the uppipe a proper cleaning before rewrapping it with fresh material. Thankfully I had a 6yr old helper with tiny hands. After turning the house upside down to find him some gloves we got it wrapped back up no problem!

  13. #42
    Registered User bbrock171's Avatar
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    Tuning is done courtesy of Mach V Motorsports in Sterling, VA.

    The car drives great, sounds great, and makes plenty of power. Couldn't be happier!

    Last edited by bbrock171; 06-26-2013 at 05:16 PM. Reason: Wrong photo

  14. #43
    Registered User bbrock171's Avatar
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    I blew it up

    Click image for larger version. 

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    New factory EJ257 is in the car, going through the break-in process all over again. At least now I have a short block to build.

  15. #44
    Registered User dan5505's Avatar
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    Awesome build. What do you think was the cause of failure? If you don't mind me asking, what did the new EJ257 cost you?

  16. #45
    Registered User bbrock171's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dan5505 View Post
    Awesome build. What do you think was the cause of failure? If you don't mind me asking, what did the new EJ257 cost you?
    Thanks. I can't be sure, but the only thing I can come up with is it might have had something to do with an etune I had on the car before that I had major knock issues with that might've caused some damage prior to completion of the build. The current tune is solid and I haven't seen any knock in the logs with it, yet the ringlands on the #2 piston still went immediately after tuning. Most of the people I read about with ringland failures have their #4 piston fail, but a couple. I've seen have #2 fail. #4 is usually attributed to lack of fuel since its last in line in a series fuel layout, but #2 is on the same fuel rail as #4, so I'm not sure if there is some correlation there or not.

    The new shortblock itself is $2150, but you can get them cheaper if you shop around. Installed will run you about $5,000 accounting for labor, new gaskets, timing belt, fluids, etc.

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