Welcome to my build log. I take a lot of pictures and sometimes they suck. Enjoy.
Placed an order for a 2013 Black Hatchback WRX base model with short throw shifter.
Picked it up from the dealership.
Purchased a set of Blizzak WS70 tires. (picture taken after 3000 miles)
Audio Install Stage 1
- Pioneer AVH-X3500BHS
- 10" Dayton HO 4ohm SVC in a cheap sealed box (reused from old vehicle)
- Kenwood Excelon KAC-X812D (reused from old vehicle)
- Rockford Fosgate 4ga wiring kit & patch cable
- SiriusXM SXV200V1 adapter
- Microbypass parking brake bypass
- JDM Bezel
- Axxess ASWC steering wheel adapter (purchased from SVXdc)
- SVXdc 20 pin wiring harness
- SVXdc aux jack adapter
- SVXdc usb adapter diy kit
Head Unit Install
Factory bezel removed
Lower vent tube removed. This makes it easier to disconnect the wires in the back of the head unit.
Building the usb adapter
Factory bracket with Pioneer screws
All the wiring harnesses and adapters. Originally, I used a 12V relay for the parking brake bypass, but it didn't work. For the 2013 Pioneer's you have to use the microbypass.
Head unit with JDM bezel
XM Antenna Location and Routing
Amplifier Power Cable Install
First, I removed the grommet at this location:
I cut a hole in the grommet, then forced the power wire through. Vaseline helps.
Next, I modified the red battery cover and routed the cable behind the engine.
You have to cut a hole in the sponge and carpet before pushing the power cable through the firewall. I took the advice from another thread and cut a hole by hand using a drill bit.
After you unbolt the seat, you can tip it rearward and find the two connectors you need to disconnect. They are already disconnected in this picture.
You will need to remove the front triangular trim piece and the long door trim piece. I routed the power cable under the carpet, behind the front triangular trim piece, and under the passenger door trim piece. You don't have to fully remove the triangular piece, just pop it up and rotate it out of the way. You can route the power cable under the side trim then pop out under the seat by the vents.
There are two bolts near the under seat vents. They work well for grounding locations.
I ran the patch cable under the center console and poped out under the seat by the vents.
The Kenwood fits under the seat, but it's pretty tight. I plan on replacing this amp. It has some static in the output lines.
I ran the sub signal cable in the same fashion under the carpet and under the side trim panels.
These trim panels are tight. I cracked the rear one. It was really cold at the time. That may have made it more brittle. A replacement piece only costs $12 at Subaru.
Here is the Dayton HO in the cheap box.
Replaced the dealership license plate frames. Cheap, simple, and it adds 5HP. Link
Sold my old car
Installed a Precision Power PPI P1000.1 amp. I still need to take a picture of the amp, but this is where I mounted the wired remote:
Swapped back to the Dunlops.
Bought a set of Black Enkei Imolas for my summer tires. I picked up an ATEQ TPMS Quickset tool as well.
- Accessport V3
- Cobb downpipe and intake
- aftermarket component speakers