NEW YEARS BUILD
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This is a discussion on NEW YEARS BUILD within the Builds forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; OK SO IVE GOT MY IDEAS NOW , NOW I GET TO START PRICING, ALL THE PARTS BUT I WILL ...

  1. #1
    Registered User RogerSteadman's Avatar
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    NEW YEARS BUILD

    OK SO IVE GOT MY IDEAS NOW , NOW I GET TO START PRICING, ALL THE PARTS BUT I WILL START DOING THE BUILD HERE IN JANUARY, TO GET MY WRX UP TO PAR IN MY MIND IF THERE IS ANY HINTS, TIPS, OR IDEAS/ADVICE THAT MAY HELP WITH THIS PLEASE LET ME KNOW, IM NOT THE MOST MECHANICALLY INCLINED PERSON I CAN DO SOME THINGS BUT NOT EVERYTHING ON MY OWN.

    I ALREADY HAVE:
    FRONT AND REAR SWAY/STRUT BARS
    K&N SHORT RAM INTAKE
    MISHIMOTO RADIATOR
    STROMUNG EXHAUST(CATBACK)
    HKS BOV
    PAINTED THE SIDE SKIRTS
    NEW PIONEER HEAD UNIT
    UPGRADED FULL SOUND SYSTEM
    STOCK RIMS PAINTED GOLD


    THIS IS WHAT IM GOING TO BE PUTTING ON:

    1. CATTED D.P. (PREFERRABLY PERRIN, OR COBB, MAYBE NVIDIA)
    2. ACCESS PORT STAGE 2
    3. STOCK OR STI BPV/ RECIRCULATING BOV
    4. SHORT SHIFTER WITH BUSHINGS (NEED THE BEST CHEAP BRAND IDK YET)
    5. V.W. FENDER FLARES ( Fender flare awesomeness - NASIOC )
    6. REAR LIP KIT
    7. FOG LIGHTS, CS BRAKE FOGLIGHT COVERS, STI FOG LIGHT COVERS.
    8.STI SCOOP/MAYBE CARBON FIBER HOOD (MINE HAS REALLY REALLY BAD HAIL DAMAGE LOL)
    9. Uppipe
    10. Tokico HP coilovers.

    AND THATS ALL GOING TO START AROUND TAX RETURN TIME, AND IVE BEEN SAVING RIGOUROUSLY, GOING TO DO ALL THIS AT ONCE. I ALWAYS FILE MY TAXES REALLY EARLY, SO I GET MY REFUND BY MID JANUARY.

    WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK?
    AND HOW MUCH HP/TQ DO YOU THINK ILL BE PUSHING AFTER ALL OF THIS?
    BTW I DRIVE A 2003 WRB WRX WAGON

    DOES THIS SOUND GOOD OR IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE IM MISSING?
    Last edited by RogerSteadman; 11-05-2012 at 09:53 AM.

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  3. #2
    and the Funky Bunch Calvinball's Avatar
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    Why are you yelling at everyone!?

    Sounds pretty good, the only issue I see at a quick glance is that I don't believe the off-the-shelf cobb accessport maps support K&N intakes.
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  4. #3
    Registered User RogerSteadman's Avatar
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    ISNT AN INTAKE JUST AN INTAKE, NO REAL DIFFERENCE THERE, JUST MORE AIR?

    AND IM YELLING BECAUSE IM AT WORK, CAPS IS ALWAYS ON SORRY

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    and the Funky Bunch Calvinball's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RogerSteadman View Post
    ISNT AN INTAKE JUST AN INTAKE, NO REAL DIFFERENCE THERE, JUST MORE AIR?

    AND IM YELLING BECAUSE IM AT WORK, CAPS IS ALWAYS ON SORRY
    Haha, well I won't take it personally then.

    Unfortunately, an intake is not just an intake. They all are a little bit different, and Cobb's maps only support a couple I believe. You might fine though, since you have a bugeye. I'll let someone else more knowledgeable than I confirm that.
    - Will
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    Previous Cars:2012 WRB WRX Hatch, 2004 RSX-S, 1998 Grand Prix GTP
    "Isn't it amazing how smart you feel when you just aren't being stupid?"

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    Registered User RogerSteadman's Avatar
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    YEA THATS RIGHT YOU WONT

    I DIDNT KNOW THAT EACH INTAKE WAS DIFFERENT IN THE SENSE THAT THE TUNING WOULD BE DIFFERENT. WELL THEN IF I GET THE COB OR PERRIN FILTER, WOULD THAT FIX THE ISSUE, JUST NOT USE THE K&N FILTER?

  7. #6
    Registered User RogerSteadman's Avatar
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    adding one more thing to the list, I found Tokico hp coilovers, they're supposed to be very comfortable, and legendary, as they say lol

    and the web site im going to get all this from has major discounts on everything,
    thmotorsports.com
    look up the coupon codes guys its awesome
    sorry for the advertisement, but i figured you would all want to know

  8. #7
    zax
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    Quote Originally Posted by RogerSteadman View Post
    ISNT AN INTAKE JUST AN INTAKE, NO REAL DIFFERENCE THERE, JUST MORE AIR?
    And how do you expect the car to KNOW just how much fuel to inject if the car doesn't know exactly how much air is being ingested? An intake is just an intake, but without proper MAF scaling, the answer to the prior question is a resounding "it doesn't."


    Look at the map notes for Cobb Stage 2. According to Cobb, stage 2 2.0Ls put down about 225whp/225wtq... however that is on their testing mule. I'd expect to see numbers closer to 210whp/210wtq depending on the altitude/dyno conditions from the OTS tune.
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    Registered User RogerSteadman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zax View Post
    And how do you expect the car to KNOW just how much fuel to inject if the car doesn't know exactly how much air is being ingested? An intake is just an intake, but without proper MAF scaling, the answer to the prior question is a resounding "it doesn't."
    i just figured after a certain point all the filter (aftermarket of course) allowed about the same amount of air in.

    so could i just buy the cobb filter, and keep the k&n piping? or does it all need to be replaced?

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    Registered User Ruh Roh's Avatar
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    I BELIEVE THAT THE COBB MAPS ONLY SUPPORT AEM AND COBB INTAKES. BUT SOUNDS LIKE I GOOD BUILD. DID U NOTICE A DIFFERENCE WITH THE SWAY BAR UPGRADE?

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    zax
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    Quote Originally Posted by RogerSteadman View Post
    i just figured after a certain point all the filter (aftermarket of course) allowed about the same amount of air in.

    so could i just buy the cobb filter, and keep the k&n piping? or does it all need to be replaced?
    The piping is what causes the issue! It isn't how much air that is let in, it is the amount of air let in cross-referenced to the MAF voltage. If that calibration is incorrect, then the car is reading the incorrect amount of ingested air. Think of it this way: the MAF sensor works by measuring the loss of heat through a metal filament. The faster the air moves through the filament (MAF sensor), the more heat is removed from the filament. However, the filament is placed at a certain position in the piping. If you are familiar with fluid dynamics, you know that the fluid flow through a pipe is not entirely uniform. Especially when we start varying the speed of the flow. As such, we must extrapolate the flux of air through the pipe by calibrating the MAF voltage (taken at only one position) with the actual flow of the air through the pipe. This is the MAF calibration table. Different pipes [intakes] will have different calibrations, though some are closer to stock than others.
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    Registered User RogerSteadman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ruh Roh View Post
    I BELIEVE THAT THE COBB MAPS ONLY SUPPORT AEM AND COBB INTAKES. BUT SOUNDS LIKE I GOOD BUILD. DID U NOTICE A DIFFERENCE WITH THE SWAY BAR UPGRADE?
    in all honesty, i feel terrible saying this, but i bought the car with all of the aftermarket parts on it, I hate saying that, I would have much rather bought a stock one and done it myself, the only thing i did to it since ive had it was literally, paint the Grill sides, paint the side skirts, and add an aftermarket sound system. everything else was on there since i bought it back in june. But i will say that the car handels really really well, a lot better than my old Senta Spec-v that i used to autocross in lol

  13. #12
    Registered User Ruh Roh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RogerSteadman View Post
    in all honesty, i feel terrible saying this, but i bought the car with all of the aftermarket parts on it, I hate saying that, I would have much rather bought a stock one and done it myself, the only thing i did to it since ive had it was literally, paint the Grill sides, paint the side skirts, and add an aftermarket sound system. everything else was on there since i bought it back in june. But i will say that the car handels really really well, a lot better than my old Senta Spec-v that i used to autocross in lol
    oh ok hmm well goodluck with upgrades!

  14. #13
    Registered User RogerSteadman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zax View Post
    The piping is what causes the issue! It isn't how much air that is let in, it is the amount of air let in cross-referenced to the MAF voltage. If that calibration is incorrect, then the car is reading the incorrect amount of ingested air. Think of it this way: the MAF sensor works by measuring the loss of heat through a metal filament. The faster the air moves through the filament (MAF sensor), the more heat is removed from the filament. However, the filament is placed at a certain position in the piping. If you are familiar with fluid dynamics, you know that the fluid flow through a pipe is not entirely uniform. Especially when we start varying the speed of the flow. As such, we must extrapolate the flux of air through the pipe by calibrating the MAF voltage (taken at only one position) with the actual flow of the air through the pipe. This is the MAF calibration table. Different pipes [intakes] will have different calibrations, though some are closer to stock than others.

    ahh i never thought of it like that, but that does make a lot of sense lol. so then what would be the best route, to go cobb intake? or just get an open source tune, using a tuner somewhere local here in austin, for what im buying? what do you recommend?

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    Registered User RogerSteadman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ruh Roh View Post
    oh ok hmm well goodluck with upgrades!
    Thank you

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    zax
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    Quote Originally Posted by RogerSteadman View Post
    ahh i never thought of it like that, but that does make a lot of sense lol. so then what would be the best route, to go cobb intake? or just get an open source tune, using a tuner somewhere local here in austin, for what im buying? what do you recommend?
    Keep the K&N.

    Lucky for you, it's on the list of intakes that have been shown to flow similar to stock:
    NASIOC - View Single Post - Intake FAQ: Read if you are thinking of buying one!

    Keep in mind that you will not see any power increases with an intake at your modification level. If you are in doubt at all regarding the intake's effect on the AFRs, I would suggest to put the stock intake back on the car. If you are interested in the sound, a "snorkel delete" will suffice.
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