2011 STi Sedan Build Thread (400+whp) - Page 32
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This is a discussion on 2011 STi Sedan Build Thread (400+whp) within the Builds forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Oil pressure and fuel pressure gauges installed! JCS pod should be here tomorrow. Still haven't gotten my O2 sensor problem ...

  1. #466
    Registered User Januch09's Avatar
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    Oil pressure and fuel pressure gauges installed! JCS pod should be here tomorrow.

    Still haven't gotten my O2 sensor problem sorted out. Not sure if it's the front or rear. Code says rear but Mikey says the front. Some people are saying rear, some are saying front. Can anyone confirm 100% weather it's the front or the back?

    P0137 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

    On a side note, the code hasn't reappeared after I reset the ECU (about 50 miles ago). Car is still running like sh** and Afr is real lean. It's fluctuating like crazy during idle. Anywhere from 14-16. While driving it's at 13.7-14.2 which is normal.

    Anyone else go through this problem and have an answer?
    2011 STi----------PTE6266--------Fully Built---------ETS--------E85

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  3. #467
    Registered User Januch09's Avatar
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    Double Post
    Last edited by Januch09; 11-14-2013 at 03:01 PM.
    2011 STi----------PTE6266--------Fully Built---------ETS--------E85

  4. #468
    MAINEiac 11blackSTi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Januch09 View Post
    Oil pressure and fuel pressure gauges installed! JCS pod should be here tomorrow.

    Still haven't gotten my O2 sensor problem sorted out. Not sure if it's the front or rear. Code says rear but Mikey says the front. Some people are saying rear, some are saying front. Can anyone confirm 100% weather it's the front or the back?

    P0137 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

    On a side note, the code hasn't reappeared after I reset the ECU (about 50 miles ago). Car is still running like sh** and Afr is real lean. It's fluctuating like crazy during idle. Anywhere from 14-16. While driving it's at 13.7-14.2 which is normal.

    Anyone else go through this problem and have an answer?
    What is your afr at wot? It will fluctuate a lot at idle (although it should be right at 14.7), but when you take your foot off the gas while driving it leans way out. AFR at WOT is really what you want to be concerned about though.

  5. #469
    Registered User Januch09's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 11blackSTi View Post
    What is your afr at wot? It will fluctuate a lot at idle (although it should be right at 14.7), but when you take your foot off the gas while driving it leans way out. AFR at WOT is really what you want to be concerned about though.
    WOT doesn't matter because the car is on break in. I'm not wot at all. But before I got the code, afr at idle was steady and the car was running fantastic. Smooth, steady afr idles nicely. As soon as the code popped, car runs like sh** and there's a ton of fuel stumbles.
    2011 STi----------PTE6266--------Fully Built---------ETS--------E85

  6. #470
    MAINEiac 11blackSTi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Januch09 View Post
    WOT doesn't matter because the car is on break in. I'm not wot at all. But before I got the code, afr at idle was steady and the car was running fantastic. Smooth, steady afr idles nicely. As soon as the code popped, car runs like sh** and there's a ton of fuel stumbles.
    Ah gottcha.

  7. #471
    Registered User Januch09's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 11blackSTi View Post
    Ah gottcha.
    Yeah, thanks for trying to help though. Appreciate it! I'm just going to replace both sensors.
    2011 STi----------PTE6266--------Fully Built---------ETS--------E85

  8. #472
    Registered User Januch09's Avatar
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    Just ordered my 2 sensors. OEM Subaru O2 sensor and OEM Subaru AFR sensor. No dealer has them in stock for some reason and they are ridiculously over priced...
    2011 STi----------PTE6266--------Fully Built---------ETS--------E85

  9. #473
    Registered User Januch09's Avatar
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    Okay guys, I need some advice!

    I did my fuel pump hard wire today. Made my own double relay kit. It's all wired up except for the fuel pump power wire itself. This is how I wired it so far/plan on wiring it.

    a. 10 gauge power wire from battery (in-line 30 amp fuse) to relays port 30.
    b. 10 gauge ground wire from relay port 86 to seat belt bolt (chassis).
    c. 10 gauge power wire reduced to 16 gauge from port 85 to fuel pump trigger power.
    d. 10 gauge power wire from port 87 to fuel pump wire.

    As stated, I made my own custom kit with custom connections. All my wires are 10 gauge all the way to the relay, no small reduction at the relay at all, other then the reduction for the trigger wire. Now here's where my questions come into play. When I cut the wire for the fuel pump power supply outside of the fuel assembly, the wire is roughly 14-16 gauge. Would there be a problem or a drop in volts under extreme load and high IDC's if I didn't use the 10 gauge wire all the way to the pump itself? Or is that mainly what everyone does? They have a small amount of 14-16 gauge that goes into the fuel pump assembly but gets its main power from 10-12 gauge outside of the assembly.

    Next question, for the ground on the fuel pump. Should I cut that wire too and use a 10 gauge ground to ground the fuel pump directly to the chassis? Or is it okay to use the oem wires (14-16 gauge) and use the oem ground?

    Let me know how you guys did it.

    I guess if I have to and drill 2 small holes into the fuel pump assembly to fit the 10 gauge wire through to have full 10 gauge all the way to the pump (power and ground), I'll do that. But if I'll be fine leaving the short amount of 14-16 gauge on the inside of the assembly, I'll keep it like that.

    Thanks
    2011 STi----------PTE6266--------Fully Built---------ETS--------E85

  10. #474
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    Last edited by Januch09; 11-14-2013 at 03:02 PM.
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  11. #475
    Registered User Januch09's Avatar
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    Okay, so someone figure this out.

    Did my first break-in maintenance today. Got my oil changed (10-40w non-synthetic), OEM Subaru filter and Denso 2 step colder plugs. The battery was disconnected while everything was getting changed. First crank is a little rough but it eventually starts. I drive home and the whole way home the car runs friggen amazing. It is running exactly like how it came off the dyno from break-in tune. Keep in mind, I haven't changed either of the sensors yet, the "broken sensors" are still in the car.

    Fuel stumbles are gone, improper idle still there (but barely), AFR is perfect, fuel pressure is perfect.

    So can someone explain to me why the car was running so ****ty and all I did was change oil, spark plugs and disconnect the battery?

    I'm not complaining because the car is still running great (knock on wood), but why? Idk what was changed to make it run better? Maybe resetting the ECU through the AP doesn't truly reset the ECU, it just clears the codes while they still exist. But yet again I got a code for a bad sensor and the "bad sensor" is still in the car.

    I'm confused.....
    2011 STi----------PTE6266--------Fully Built---------ETS--------E85

  12. #476
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    Sensors are still bad perhaps...but the car hasn't "learned" to fuel the car with the bad sensors since the latest reset. Personally, I also don't think any ecu reset is better than just popping the negative terminal off...so it's still giving fresh fuel trims, fresh ignition timing, etc. I bet if you give it a hundo miles or so, it will start feeling bad again. I'd still change out the sensors.
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  13. #477
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikie13 View Post
    Sensors are still bad perhaps...but the car hasn't "learned" to fuel the car with the bad sensors since the latest reset. Personally, I also don't think any ecu reset is better than just popping the negative terminal off...so it's still giving fresh fuel trims, fresh ignition timing, etc. I bet if you give it a hundo miles or so, it will start feeling bad again. I'd still change out the sensors.
    That's exactly what I was thinking and btw, I did disconnect the negative terminal and the car still drove like ****. Once I disconnected the positive terminal then the car ran good. Maybe I just didn't leave the negative terminal off for long enough, but that didn't fully reset the ECU to where the car drove good.

    I will definitely be changing both sensors. I paid $300 for them and they will be put on. lol

    BTW, since the ECU was reset, I put about 75 miles on the car with no stumbles, no lean or richness, just the car driving fantastic.
    2011 STi----------PTE6266--------Fully Built---------ETS--------E85

  14. #478
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    Fuel pump hard wire complete. I took my sweet time and soldered everything together then double heat shrunk all the wires to make sure for no loose connections or possible grounding out power wires.

    I wound up going with a double relay setup. I went with a double relay just in case one fails under boost, I don't have to worry about the fuel pump turning off and fuel pressure going to ****.

    I used 12 gauge wire for everything. The only place where it's not 12 gauge is where the wire goes from the outside of the pump housing to the actual pump itself (so maybe a foot of 14 gauge wire, which is still plenty to put 20 amps through without voltage drop).

    I took a few pictures and I might try to do a write up for any of the 08+ wrx/sti people looking to do a hardwire.
    2011 STi----------PTE6266--------Fully Built---------ETS--------E85

  15. #479
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    Not looking good to get tuned today. My sensors still haven't came in, nor did my gauge pod (that's not a big deal, but it's just the point).

    Finished my hybrid boost control setup last night, I went with 5/32" vaccum line for everything. I was able to heat up and soap the 5/32" line to fit it over the 7/32" fittings on the turbo and EWG. It came out pretty good.
    2011 STi----------PTE6266--------Fully Built---------ETS--------E85

  16. #480
    Registered User Januch09's Avatar
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    Hopefully the sensors are here for tomorrow. Tune is rescheduled for Wednesday.

    Started a winter detail. Will be finishing tomorrow.
    -Auto scrubbed the whole car (clay bar)
    -Swirl Removal
    -Polish
    -Wax

    For winter the car will be changed up a bit.
    -Skirts, lips and diffuser are coming off.
    -Wheels will be switched to OEM STi BBS's wrapped in Blizzak LM-60 235/50/18
    -Thule Roof Rack with Thule Fairing & Snowboard carrier going on
    2011 STi----------PTE6266--------Fully Built---------ETS--------E85

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