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Januch09's 2011 STi Build (PTE6266)

155K views 853 replies 60 participants last post by  Januch09 
#1 · (Edited)
Januch09's 2011 STi Build (PTE6466)

Frank’s 2011 STi Limited (SWP Sedan) Build

Link to full build: Frank's 2011 STi Sedan Full Build

Hey guys just a little background. I have an 2011 STi sedan with roughly 20k miles on it. Currently on motor number 6. Not going to get into why I've been through that many motors or anything, so basically I'm starting fresh on this one.

Here's the specs:


Short Block:
Built by Prime Motoring in East Rutherford NJ
-New EJ257 Case Halves
-Darton Sleeves O-ringed
-OEM Nitraded Crankshaft
-Cosworth 99.5 / 8.2:1 CR Pistons
-Cosworth Oversized Headgasket
-Manley Turbo Tuff I-Beams w/ ARP Bolts
-King XPG Main and Rod Bearings
-Killer B Oil Pick-Up & Baffle
-11mm High Volume Oil Pump

Heads:
Built By Headgames
-Pocket Port
-O-Ringed
-Ferrea Exhaust and Intake Valves +1mm
-Ferrea Guides & Locks
-GSC Beehive Springs & Retainers
-GSC S2 (272) Camshafts
-Cosworth Head Gasket
-ARP CA625+ Headstuds
-Denso IKH24 Spark Plugs (2 steps colder)

Fueling:
-ID2000 Injectors
-DW65c Fuel Pump In Tank
-Radium Engineering Fuel Surge Tank w/ 2 walboro 485 submerged
-Vibrant -6an feed and return lines w/ vibrant fittings
-Aeromotive Fuel Regulator (red)
-Agency Power Fuel Rails (red)
-Aeromotoive inline fuel filter 6 Micron

Induction/Turbo/Cooling:
-ETS Rotated Turbo Kit
-Precision Gen2 6466 V-Band Turbo, hot side ceramic coated, compressor cover powder coated Perl White
-ETS Black Anodized FMIC 4’’ Core, 3’’ Black Piping (AIT bung and tial flange) (white powder coated clamps) (speed density)
-AEM AIT Sensor
-Tial QR BOV
-Grimmspeed Electronic Boost Controller
-Crawford FMIC Rotated AOS
-Koyo Radiator & Cap
-Samco Radiator Hoses (black)

Exhaust:
-Killer B Holy Header (ceramic coated)
-ETS Rotated Up-pipe w/ Tial 44mm EWG (red)
-ETS Catless Rotated Down-pipe
-Invidia Q300 Rolled Titanium Tips CBE (kartboy extra long exhaust hangers)

Drivetrain:
-Clutchmaster FX400 6-Puck Clutch
-Kartboy STS w/ all Bushings

Gauge Setup:
+SMY Clustermaker
-AEM Air/Fuel Ratio Wideband Gauge
-AEM Boost Gauge
+JCS 3 Gauge A-Pillar Pod
-AEM Oil Pressure Gauge
-AEM Fuel Pressure Gauge
-3rd hole closed for now but eventually ECR Gauge

Tuning:
Pro-Tuned by JR @ Prime Motoring
*Pump Gas- 450whp/420wtq
*E85- 575whp/540wtq

Wheels/Tires/Suspension/Brakes:
-Airlift V2 Performance Air Ride Kit w/ Dual Viaar 380c Compressors, single 5 gallon tank & water traps (tank paint matched)
-Whiteline Front and Rear 24mm Adjustable Sway Bars
-Kartboy Front and Rear Endlinks
-Whiteline Steering Rack Bushings
-Whiteline Rear Dif Positive Power Kit Bushings
-Whiteline Rear Positive Traction Kit
-SBC Rear Control Arms
-18x9.5+30 Enkei Kojins (Powder Coated Copper)
-Sumitomo HTZIII 265/35/18
-Muteki SR34 Neo-Chrome Closed End Lugnuts
-Hubcentric Rings 56.1 to 76
-Stoptech Drilled & Slotted F&R Rotors
-Hawk HPS Pads
-Stoptech SS Lines
-Grimmspeed master Cylinder Brace
-Motul SP600 Brake Fluid










My PTE6266 vs. my old Blouch Dom4.0XTR
 
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#590 ·
Well its hard for me to say, because I am not personally going through it like you are. But stick with it man, once it running and healthy the pay off will be huge. And a side note, I would love to see this thing up and running and see what kind of power it makes after the break-in. Good luck with everything and keep your head up. Find a more reputible shop and hope they can sort it out!
 
#591 ·
I'll most likely stick with it because giving up at this point would be pointless. I just can't be spending money like I was on it. It's killing me.

I'm sure if/when it's ever fixed/running it will definitely be well worth it and will be a real fun car but who knows if I'll ever get there with it.

I appreciate the support! I'll keep you guys posted with anything new.
 
#592 ·
Okay, so we were able to fix the timing issue. The car is now staying on time, but we think when it kept coming off timing it may have caused some damage.

Leak down came back at almost 40% and compression is decently low on passenger side (results posted in previous comment). We are going to try one more thing before we rip the motor out to diagnose. We are going to replace the cam gear on the passenger side this time and see if that works, if it does, awesome! Fix the oil leak and good to go. If it doens't, motor is coming out and the problem will be diagnosed.

Should know the verdict by tomorrow. I'll keep you guys posted.
 
#593 ·
Okay, so we were able to fix the timing issue. The car is now staying on time, but we think when it kept coming off timing it may have caused some damage.

Leak down came back at almost 40% and compression is decently low on passenger side (results posted in previous comment). We are going to try one more thing before we rip the motor out to diagnose. We are going to replace the cam gear on the passenger side this time and see if that works, if it does, awesome! Fix the oil leak and good to go. If it doens't, motor is coming out and the problem will be diagnosed.

Should know the verdict by tomorrow. I'll keep you guys posted.
 
#594 ·
Well I've been holding off posting this because I'm just at the point of "idk what to do anymore". Motor is coming out yet again. The problem couldn't be diagnosed fully without pulling the motor. There are a few suspicions of what it may be, but nothing is definite. The motor should be pulled within the next week or so and disassembled to see what the issue is.

In the meantime, looking for a bare block and possible a set of heads. Thinking about building a spare motor myself with parts I have laying around just so i have one ready to go and to try. Figure none of the shops so far could be me a motor that will last so why not give it a shot myself.

So if anyone has a set of "unmolested" heads or a bare block they want to donate or sell for a very good price, please let me know as I am interested.

Thanks
 
#595 ·
Well I've been holding off posting this because I'm just at the point of "idk what to do anymore". Motor is coming out yet again. The problem couldn't be diagnosed fully without pulling the motor. There are a few suspicions of what it may be, but nothing is definite. The motor should be pulled within the next week or so and disassembled to see what the issue is.

In the meantime, looking for a bare block and possible a set of heads. Thinking about building a spare motor myself with parts I have laying around just so i have one ready to go and to try. Figure none of the shops so far could be me a motor that will last so why not give it a shot myself.

So if anyone has a set of "unmolested" heads or a bare block they want to donate or sell for a very good price, please let me know as I am interested.

Thanks
 
#597 ·
May as well go straight for a Cosworth block at this point...or hit up TiC and get their built crate Honey Badger.
 
#600 ·
Well the car is back and running good so far. Prime did a great job at fixing all my issues and so far so good. Put about 50 miles on it so far and no apparent issues. No oil leaks, no roughness, idles nice, drives nice, etc. Going to drive it for a good 300-400 miles then do an oil change. Then another 600-700 miles followed by an oil change right before the dyno.
Break in will be done over the next few weeks and then time for dyno as long as no more issues occur.

So the verdict of the issues were:
-Thicker head gasket
-Adjustable pulleys
-New cam gears (4)
-New AVCS sensors and gaskets
-New intake manifold to TGV gaskets (4)
-TGV's needed some cleaning up
-New cosworth piston rings & clips
-Sealant on the cams to stop the oil leaking
-New cam seals

As of right now, I plan on giving the car a real nice detail and enjoying it while on break-in. Not having much power sucks, but at least my car is running and I can drive it. I'll post up some pictures tomorrow after I clean it real good and maybe even detail it tomorrow.

Thanks for following this thread and hopefully good things come from here!

Other then that, I have a quick question for some people. So I tried putting in the new resistors I got for the seats and the airbag light still will not go off. The resistors rear 3.3 on my multi-meter so I know they are good, but I can't seem to get the airbag light to go off. Any suggestions for the people who've swapped seats?

Thanks
 
#601 ·
Well the car is back and running good so far. Prime did a great job at fixing all my issues and so far so good. Put about 50 miles on it so far and no apparent issues. No oil leaks, no roughness, idles nice, drives nice, etc. Going to drive it for a good 300-400 miles then do an oil change. Then another 600-700 miles followed by an oil change right before the dyno.
Break in will be done over the next few weeks and then time for dyno as long as no more issues occur.

So the verdict of the issues were:
-Thicker head gasket
-Adjustable pulleys
-New cam gears (4)
-New AVCS sensors and gaskets
-New intake manifold to TGV gaskets (4)
-TGV's needed some cleaning up
-New cosworth piston rings & clips
-Sealant on the cams to stop the oil leaking
-New cam seals

As of right now, I plan on giving the car a real nice detail and enjoying it while on break-in. Not having much power sucks, but at least my car is running and I can drive it. I'll post up some pictures tomorrow after I clean it real good and maybe even detail it tomorrow.

Thanks for following this thread and hopefully good things come from here!

Other then that, I have a quick question for some people. So I tried putting in the new resistors I got for the seats and the airbag light still will not go off. The resistors rear 3.3 on my multi-meter so I know they are good, but I can't seem to get the airbag light to go off. Any suggestions for the people who've swapped seats?

Thanks
 
#604 ·
Usually any shop that does major work will have one, or you can take it to the dealer for them to reset. Most places will do it for free not sure about the dealer. Or you can just disconnect the battery terminals.
 
#610 ·
On a side not, I was able to transfer the bladder for the passenger seat as well as put new resistors in and I disconnected the battery while doing so. After I installed everything, plugged the battery back in, started the car up and it works perfectly! No airbag light, no seatbelt light once the seat belts are buckled up. All works flawlessly and no annoying chimes!

Thanks for the help guys!

I started my detail process today also. Used a new Nanoskin pad on my porter cable to remove all the debris and contamination in the paint. Much faster and easier then claybar. Nice and smooth now. Also, cleaned up the interior and detailed the dash trim and all plastic pieces. Tomorrow I'll do a full swirl removal with Adams 2 step polishing kit and microfiber cutting pads. Also have some Menzerna FG400 that I'll use on the roof where the swirls are bad. Followed by some Collinite insulator wax. Should be looking real good tomorrow!

Car is still running great and no apparent oil leaks noticeable. Stay tuned for more updates in the next few days. Break-in continues.

Here's some relevant pics!













 
#613 ·
Btw, if anyone can help me out this would be great! I'm looking for an 08+ (so it fits my car) fuel pump assembly. It needs to have no mods to it at all. Either had or has a dw65c in it or a stock pump (not really interested in the pump unless it's a dw65c).

The reason for this is, I'll be running a surge tank setup. I currently have a walboro 485 in tank and I'm getting surging issues and running th pump dry from swashing. So I want to run the walboro submerged in the surge tank and run a stock fuel pump assembly with a dw65c in it. Since my fuel pump assembly is modded, it'll be such a hassle to get the dw65c to fit, so I just need a stock one!

Please let me know if you have one or know anyone that has one that will give, trade, or sell to me! I need one asap so please keep me posted!

Thanks
 
#614 ·
Btw, if anyone can help me out this would be great! I'm looking for an 08+ (so it fits my car) fuel pump assembly. It needs to have no mods to it at all. Either had or has a dw65c in it or a stock pump (not really interested in the pump unless it's a dw65c).

The reason for this is, I'll be running a surge tank setup. I currently have a walboro 485 in tank and I'm getting surging issues and running th pump dry from swashing. So I want to run the walboro submerged in the surge tank and run a stock fuel pump assembly with a dw65c in it. Since my fuel pump assembly is modded, it'll be such a hassle to get the dw65c to fit, so I just need a stock one!

Please let me know if you have one or know anyone that has one that will give, trade, or sell to me! I need one asap so please keep me posted!

Thanks
 
#615 ·
Was able to pick up a fuel pump hanger today for pretty cheap. Really excited. DW65 will be here tomorrow. I got the surge tank yesterday and am very happy with it. Just waiting on fuel lines and fitting to come in.

Also ordered a new front O2 sensor which should be here late this week.

Checked the oil again today and hasn't burned a drop. No oil leaks or coolant leaks anywhere.

Other then that, car seems pretty strong. Break in map is a little rough, but we'll clear everything up on the dyno soon. Car has 600 miles on it now and nothing out of the ordinary that I can really see or feel.
 
#616 ·
Was able to pick up a fuel pump hanger today for pretty cheap. Really excited. DW65 will be here tomorrow. I got the surge tank yesterday and am very happy with it. Just waiting on fuel lines and fitting to come in.

Also ordered a new front O2 sensor which should be here late this week.

Checked the oil again today and hasn't burned a drop. No oil leaks or coolant leaks anywhere.

Other then that, car seems pretty strong. Break in map is a little rough, but we'll clear everything up on the dyno soon. Car has 600 miles on it now and nothing out of the ordinary that I can really see or feel.
 
#619 · (Edited)
Okay well those pictures I posted were way to large, so I deleted them and am reposting so you can actually view them lol. Enjoy


DSC_0013
by Kyle Petrick Photography, on Flickr


DSC_0023
by Kyle Petrick Photography, on Flickr


DSC_0031
by Kyle Petrick Photography, on Flickr


DSC_0034
by Kyle Petrick Photography, on Flickr


DSC_0038
by Kyle Petrick Photography, on Flickr


DSC_0046
by Kyle Petrick Photography, on Flickr


DSC_0061
by Kyle Petrick Photography, on Flickr


DSC_0083
by Kyle Petrick Photography, on Flickr
 
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