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Januch09's 2011 STi Build (PTE6266)

155K views 853 replies 60 participants last post by  Januch09 
#1 · (Edited)
Januch09's 2011 STi Build (PTE6466)

Frank’s 2011 STi Limited (SWP Sedan) Build

Link to full build: Frank's 2011 STi Sedan Full Build

Hey guys just a little background. I have an 2011 STi sedan with roughly 20k miles on it. Currently on motor number 6. Not going to get into why I've been through that many motors or anything, so basically I'm starting fresh on this one.

Here's the specs:


Short Block:
Built by Prime Motoring in East Rutherford NJ
-New EJ257 Case Halves
-Darton Sleeves O-ringed
-OEM Nitraded Crankshaft
-Cosworth 99.5 / 8.2:1 CR Pistons
-Cosworth Oversized Headgasket
-Manley Turbo Tuff I-Beams w/ ARP Bolts
-King XPG Main and Rod Bearings
-Killer B Oil Pick-Up & Baffle
-11mm High Volume Oil Pump

Heads:
Built By Headgames
-Pocket Port
-O-Ringed
-Ferrea Exhaust and Intake Valves +1mm
-Ferrea Guides & Locks
-GSC Beehive Springs & Retainers
-GSC S2 (272) Camshafts
-Cosworth Head Gasket
-ARP CA625+ Headstuds
-Denso IKH24 Spark Plugs (2 steps colder)

Fueling:
-ID2000 Injectors
-DW65c Fuel Pump In Tank
-Radium Engineering Fuel Surge Tank w/ 2 walboro 485 submerged
-Vibrant -6an feed and return lines w/ vibrant fittings
-Aeromotive Fuel Regulator (red)
-Agency Power Fuel Rails (red)
-Aeromotoive inline fuel filter 6 Micron

Induction/Turbo/Cooling:
-ETS Rotated Turbo Kit
-Precision Gen2 6466 V-Band Turbo, hot side ceramic coated, compressor cover powder coated Perl White
-ETS Black Anodized FMIC 4’’ Core, 3’’ Black Piping (AIT bung and tial flange) (white powder coated clamps) (speed density)
-AEM AIT Sensor
-Tial QR BOV
-Grimmspeed Electronic Boost Controller
-Crawford FMIC Rotated AOS
-Koyo Radiator & Cap
-Samco Radiator Hoses (black)

Exhaust:
-Killer B Holy Header (ceramic coated)
-ETS Rotated Up-pipe w/ Tial 44mm EWG (red)
-ETS Catless Rotated Down-pipe
-Invidia Q300 Rolled Titanium Tips CBE (kartboy extra long exhaust hangers)

Drivetrain:
-Clutchmaster FX400 6-Puck Clutch
-Kartboy STS w/ all Bushings

Gauge Setup:
+SMY Clustermaker
-AEM Air/Fuel Ratio Wideband Gauge
-AEM Boost Gauge
+JCS 3 Gauge A-Pillar Pod
-AEM Oil Pressure Gauge
-AEM Fuel Pressure Gauge
-3rd hole closed for now but eventually ECR Gauge

Tuning:
Pro-Tuned by JR @ Prime Motoring
*Pump Gas- 450whp/420wtq
*E85- 575whp/540wtq

Wheels/Tires/Suspension/Brakes:
-Airlift V2 Performance Air Ride Kit w/ Dual Viaar 380c Compressors, single 5 gallon tank & water traps (tank paint matched)
-Whiteline Front and Rear 24mm Adjustable Sway Bars
-Kartboy Front and Rear Endlinks
-Whiteline Steering Rack Bushings
-Whiteline Rear Dif Positive Power Kit Bushings
-Whiteline Rear Positive Traction Kit
-SBC Rear Control Arms
-18x9.5+30 Enkei Kojins (Powder Coated Copper)
-Sumitomo HTZIII 265/35/18
-Muteki SR34 Neo-Chrome Closed End Lugnuts
-Hubcentric Rings 56.1 to 76
-Stoptech Drilled & Slotted F&R Rotors
-Hawk HPS Pads
-Stoptech SS Lines
-Grimmspeed master Cylinder Brace
-Motul SP600 Brake Fluid










My PTE6266 vs. my old Blouch Dom4.0XTR
 
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#554 ·
That sucks man. I have been following your build, hopefully they get things straightened out sooner than later. I am so jelous of your car lol. Mine will get there one day. In about 3-4 years from now lol. Love the seats by the way!
 
#556 ·
Okay, well got quite a few things going on.

Seats, harnesses and harness bar are all installed. Can't seem to get the airbag light to turn off. I added the 3.3ohm resistors which aren't fixing the problem. Idk if anyone has any knowledge in installing seats and what not, but I tested my resistors and they are reading 4.9ohm on my multimeter, I'm thinking that's the issue. I ordered a bunch of new resistors to try. Also, I need to figure out how to trick the passenger side seatbelt and air bag chime/light as well. I don't want to transfer over the whole assembly from my stock seats including the bladder and what not. Any one have any advice or experience with this?

Aside from seats, I'm suppose to go tomorrow to get the break-in tune on the car so that it's safe to drive. Not 100% sure if that's happening still or not, but we'll see.

Wednesday I'll be taking the timing cover and cam sprockets off to replace the cam seals and try to fix the oil leak. I'm hoping it's just the cam seal that's giving me the issue, but we'll see. I ordered two new cam seals, valve cover gasket and an AC belt, so we'll see how everything turns out.

Gave the car a nice wash today and I'm quite surprised how the wax held up on the car for sitting soo long. There's a few scratches and what not, but nothing a good detail can't get out. However, need some body work to get done soon. My rear fenders are beaconed and chipped bad, front fenders have bad paint cracking and they need to be rolled, side skirts are cracked and chipped, front bumper needs to get shaved and resprayed and the rear bumper needs to be respired (exhaust garnish is all brown). So a lot of stuff in the works.

Once the car is finally back up and running, I'm going to dial in the suspension a bit more. The car is getting raised a little bit, alignment, swaybars, end links and some bushings (possibly bags in the near future).

Other then that, everything looks good and is coming together. Hopefully no more hold ups but we'll see after I sure out the oil leak.
 
#557 ·
Okay, well got quite a few things going on.

Seats, harnesses and harness bar are all installed. Can't seem to get the airbag light to turn off. I added the 3.3ohm resistors which aren't fixing the problem. Idk if anyone has any knowledge in installing seats and what not, but I tested my resistors and they are reading 4.9ohm on my multimeter, I'm thinking that's the issue. I ordered a bunch of new resistors to try. Also, I need to figure out how to trick the passenger side seatbelt and air bag chime/light as well. I don't want to transfer over the whole assembly from my stock seats including the bladder and what not. Any one have any advice or experience with this?

Aside from seats, I'm suppose to go tomorrow to get the break-in tune on the car so that it's safe to drive. Not 100% sure if that's happening still or not, but we'll see.

Wednesday I'll be taking the timing cover and cam sprockets off to replace the cam seals and try to fix the oil leak. I'm hoping it's just the cam seal that's giving me the issue, but we'll see. I ordered two new cam seals, valve cover gasket and an AC belt, so we'll see how everything turns out.

Gave the car a nice wash today and I'm quite surprised how the wax held up on the car for sitting soo long. There's a few scratches and what not, but nothing a good detail can't get out. However, need some body work to get done soon. My rear fenders are beaconed and chipped bad, front fenders have bad paint cracking and they need to be rolled, side skirts are cracked and chipped, front bumper needs to get shaved and resprayed and the rear bumper needs to be respired (exhaust garnish is all brown). So a lot of stuff in the works.

Once the car is finally back up and running, I'm going to dial in the suspension a bit more. The car is getting raised a little bit, alignment, swaybars, end links and some bushings (possibly bags in the near future).

Other then that, everything looks good and is coming together. Hopefully no more hold ups but we'll see after I sure out the oil leak.
 
#558 ·
So I was finally able to get the car to Jr to revise the map that we thought was bad and we found out the car is only running on 3 cylinders….. I can't win.

The only thing I have going for me is that we don't think it's anything crazy harmful. The driver side head avcs oil pressure was reading 3-5 as the passenger side was reading 50-53. Therefore we concluded that the driver side intake cam sprocket is on incorrectly causing for no oil pressure and the piston not to fire. Praying to god that it's that. Now you may think, well that may also explain the oil leak. I thought that too until we realized the oil leak seems to be coming form the passenger side head. Go figure.

I'm letting Prime Motoring take the timing belt off and fix the cam sprocket issue and oil leak issue since I'm a little weary about taking a chance of jumping timing and then completely screwing my motor up since I've never done it before. I plan to drop the car off their Monday at some point and hopefully they can get it done in a day or so. Then once it's "fixed", Jr will be there if any revisions need to be made in the tune, which their shouldn't be really.

I'll keep this updated.
Januch09 is online now Report Post
 
#559 ·
So I was finally able to get the car to Jr to revise the map that we thought was bad and we found out the car is only running on 3 cylinders….. I can't win.

The only thing I have going for me is that we don't think it's anything crazy harmful. The driver side head avcs oil pressure was reading 3-5 as the passenger side was reading 50-53. Therefore we concluded that the driver side intake cam sprocket is on incorrectly causing for no oil pressure and the piston not to fire. Praying to god that it's that. Now you may think, well that may also explain the oil leak. I thought that too until we realized the oil leak seems to be coming form the passenger side head. Go figure.

I'm letting Prime Motoring take the timing belt off and fix the cam sprocket issue and oil leak issue since I'm a little weary about taking a chance of jumping timing and then completely screwing my motor up since I've never done it before. I plan to drop the car off their Monday at some point and hopefully they can get it done in a day or so. Then once it's "fixed", Jr will be there if any revisions need to be made in the tune, which their shouldn't be really.

I'll keep this updated.
 
#563 ·
I demand an update!!! Lol. I really hope the fix is/was simple dude. This thread is like crack, and a messed up man's version of a love story. Man buys sti, man builds sti, man loves sti. Sti torn from his hands at fault of a blown engine, rebuild and back in the sattle again, the man is all smiles and patiently awaiting the break-in period so he can give his white stallion some more love on the throttle. Then to his surprise, bearing are shot and another rebuild in order. AHHHHHHHH!!!!!! Im on the edge of my seat dude!! I think I want this thing healthy and on the road more than you do. haha.

But in all seriousness, good luck on everything this time around, Im sure it will all get straightened out, and when it does you will have one of the cleanest and meanest sti's on the road.
 
#565 ·
More bad news.

So Rallispec gave me the car back with it running terrible and said that there is a tuning issue, nothing about it running on 3 cylinders. Well the timing cover and everything was taken apart yesterday and we found out that the intake driver side cam gear was off timing by about a whole tooth. The cam gear is messed up because the pin hit it and now it's ovalized. Just ordered a new cam gear today.

But aside from that, who knows if the motor will come back with good compression now that it was ran with timing off. They did a leak down test for me and it came back at 50% but they are thinking that may be because the valves aren't opening. So once the cam gear is replaced, they will re-time it and do another leak down to see if it's good or not.

The oil leak seems to be coming from the avcs sensor on the passenger side. Could possibly just be the o-ring but if that's not it, then the cage is leaking from what I'm told.

The dipstick o-ring was on completely wrong and oil was leaking from there. My one coil pack clip was broken off and just placed on and could fall off at any time.

I just really want everyone to think twice before choosing certain shops. What has happened between me and Rallispec is done with. I just want to spread awareness of the lack of shops that actually want to help people and fix their cars rather then screw you and get their money. No, I am NOT saying all shops are like that and my case is definitely out of the ordinary, but it just really sucks to see that a shop would do something like this….
 
#566 ·
More bad news.

So Rallispec gave me the car back with it running terrible and said that there is a tuning issue, nothing about it running on 3 cylinders. Well the timing cover and everything was taken apart yesterday and we found out that the intake driver side cam gear was off timing by about a whole tooth. The cam gear is messed up because the pin hit it and now it's ovalized. Just ordered a new cam gear today.

But aside from that, who knows if the motor will come back with good compression now that it was ran with timing off. They did a leak down test for me and it came back at 50% but they are thinking that may be because the valves aren't opening. So once the cam gear is replaced, they will re-time it and do another leak down to see if it's good or not.

The oil leak seems to be coming from the avcs sensor on the passenger side. Could possibly just be the o-ring but if that's not it, then the cage is leaking from what I'm told.

The dipstick o-ring was on completely wrong and oil was leaking from there. My one coil pack clip was broken off and just placed on and could fall off at any time.

I just really want everyone to think twice before choosing certain shops. What has happened between me and Rallispec is done with. I just want to spread awareness of the lack of shops that actually want to help people and fix their cars rather then screw you and get their money. No, I am NOT saying all shops are like that and my case is definitely out of the ordinary, but it just really sucks to see that a shop would do something like this….
 
#571 ·
It is unlikely you will have impact from one tooth of cam phasing, though with the STI AVCS up to 30 degrees of phasing, I can't stand by those words. It make sense that you will not have static compression in both cylinders in the bank. To properly determine if the piston/valves have been damaged, you should run a leakdown test.
 
#567 ·
Sorry to hear man...and I thought they were supposed to be a reputable shop?
 
#569 ·
Ouch man. That is some bad news. And sounds like that shop has no idea what in the hell they are doing. Or at the very least they arent worried about craftsmanship because it sounds like to me that they rushed puting it together. I mean the o-ring gasket to the dipstick? Man this just sucks to read. I know you have alot of time and money invested into that place. But, if I were you I would pack up my stuff and trailer my car out of there and never let them touch it again and go find a better shop. It would probably safe you money going somewhere else in the long run with the track record this shop is having with your car!

But none the less, I hope all is sorted out soon, good luck with everything!
 
#573 ·
Man I just read through this whole build thread and it really makes me question having a rebuilt motor vs. stock. My shop says I can push a lot more HP with a built motor and my current gt35r turbo but from your thread it looks like I'd be better off sticking with stock motor and lower HP.

I'm super bummed to read about all the issues you are having with your car. I can't believe there is nothing you can do to get some money back from that shop that screwed you so many times. If I was in your position (not that my opinion is worth much) I would be having a stern talk with them about refunding a good chunk of the labor costs. If they gave me crap I would find the nearest lawyer....

Once again I'm new to the whole tuning thing but man it seems like they took you to the cleaners. Especially when the engine blew after 1,000 miles. I can't think of any kind of rash/hard driving that would cause that. Since they were the only ones involved in your engine build (or putting the car together) I really don't see how they can claim no responsibility in the matter. If they say it's the built motor than I would go after the company who built the motor.

Maybe you've already looked into some of this but I wouldn't take that beating without putting up a serious fight (I don't know maybe you make enough money that it doesn't kill you too bad). As every else has said I hope nothing but the best for you on this last bout with the engine but if you haven't already would seriously look into fighting to get some money returned.
 
#574 ·
I appreciate all the advice and believe me, it's hurt my pocket big time!

My situation has a lot more to it and I've decided I want nothing to do with the shop anymore and took my problems elsewhere. It's being felt with but who knows what else needs to be done now.
 
#579 ·
Still no good updates for me.

Ran into some more issues and just hoping it all fixable stuff. We were able to get the car to stay on time with adjustable pulley's. Now I'm having an issue with the passenger side cam gear. Compression came back low, so we'll see where we get with the cam gear issue.

Oil leaks are still not yet resolved. Thinking maybe some good RTV will do the trick, but we'll see.

Otherwise. Happy Mother's Day!
 
#580 ·
Still no good updates for me.

Ran into some more issues and just hoping it all fixable stuff. We were able to get the car to stay on time with adjustable pulley's. Now I'm having an issue with the passenger side cam gear. Compression came back low, so we'll see where we get with the cam gear issue.

Oil leaks are still not yet resolved. Thinking maybe some good RTV will do the trick, but we'll see.

Otherwise. Happy Mother's Day!
 
#588 ·
Man, its getting depressing opening your thread. Everytime i do its more bad news. Its like when you were a kid at christmas and you knew the gift was clothes, but you opened it anyway. :(


All jokes aside, I hope that whatever shop you are at now, gets you in the right direction!
 
#589 ·
It is really starting to suck and I honestly just want to get rid of the car at his point. It would just be way to hard to sell and not get completely killed on it. I also have no interest in putting the car back to somewhat stock. So basically I'm screwed…


But thanks man. All the support is appreciated.
 
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