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Januch09's 2011 STi Build (PTE6266)

155K views 853 replies 60 participants last post by  Januch09 
#1 · (Edited)
Januch09's 2011 STi Build (PTE6466)

Frank’s 2011 STi Limited (SWP Sedan) Build

Link to full build: Frank's 2011 STi Sedan Full Build

Hey guys just a little background. I have an 2011 STi sedan with roughly 20k miles on it. Currently on motor number 6. Not going to get into why I've been through that many motors or anything, so basically I'm starting fresh on this one.

Here's the specs:


Short Block:
Built by Prime Motoring in East Rutherford NJ
-New EJ257 Case Halves
-Darton Sleeves O-ringed
-OEM Nitraded Crankshaft
-Cosworth 99.5 / 8.2:1 CR Pistons
-Cosworth Oversized Headgasket
-Manley Turbo Tuff I-Beams w/ ARP Bolts
-King XPG Main and Rod Bearings
-Killer B Oil Pick-Up & Baffle
-11mm High Volume Oil Pump

Heads:
Built By Headgames
-Pocket Port
-O-Ringed
-Ferrea Exhaust and Intake Valves +1mm
-Ferrea Guides & Locks
-GSC Beehive Springs & Retainers
-GSC S2 (272) Camshafts
-Cosworth Head Gasket
-ARP CA625+ Headstuds
-Denso IKH24 Spark Plugs (2 steps colder)

Fueling:
-ID2000 Injectors
-DW65c Fuel Pump In Tank
-Radium Engineering Fuel Surge Tank w/ 2 walboro 485 submerged
-Vibrant -6an feed and return lines w/ vibrant fittings
-Aeromotive Fuel Regulator (red)
-Agency Power Fuel Rails (red)
-Aeromotoive inline fuel filter 6 Micron

Induction/Turbo/Cooling:
-ETS Rotated Turbo Kit
-Precision Gen2 6466 V-Band Turbo, hot side ceramic coated, compressor cover powder coated Perl White
-ETS Black Anodized FMIC 4’’ Core, 3’’ Black Piping (AIT bung and tial flange) (white powder coated clamps) (speed density)
-AEM AIT Sensor
-Tial QR BOV
-Grimmspeed Electronic Boost Controller
-Crawford FMIC Rotated AOS
-Koyo Radiator & Cap
-Samco Radiator Hoses (black)

Exhaust:
-Killer B Holy Header (ceramic coated)
-ETS Rotated Up-pipe w/ Tial 44mm EWG (red)
-ETS Catless Rotated Down-pipe
-Invidia Q300 Rolled Titanium Tips CBE (kartboy extra long exhaust hangers)

Drivetrain:
-Clutchmaster FX400 6-Puck Clutch
-Kartboy STS w/ all Bushings

Gauge Setup:
+SMY Clustermaker
-AEM Air/Fuel Ratio Wideband Gauge
-AEM Boost Gauge
+JCS 3 Gauge A-Pillar Pod
-AEM Oil Pressure Gauge
-AEM Fuel Pressure Gauge
-3rd hole closed for now but eventually ECR Gauge

Tuning:
Pro-Tuned by JR @ Prime Motoring
*Pump Gas- 450whp/420wtq
*E85- 575whp/540wtq

Wheels/Tires/Suspension/Brakes:
-Airlift V2 Performance Air Ride Kit w/ Dual Viaar 380c Compressors, single 5 gallon tank & water traps (tank paint matched)
-Whiteline Front and Rear 24mm Adjustable Sway Bars
-Kartboy Front and Rear Endlinks
-Whiteline Steering Rack Bushings
-Whiteline Rear Dif Positive Power Kit Bushings
-Whiteline Rear Positive Traction Kit
-SBC Rear Control Arms
-18x9.5+30 Enkei Kojins (Powder Coated Copper)
-Sumitomo HTZIII 265/35/18
-Muteki SR34 Neo-Chrome Closed End Lugnuts
-Hubcentric Rings 56.1 to 76
-Stoptech Drilled & Slotted F&R Rotors
-Hawk HPS Pads
-Stoptech SS Lines
-Grimmspeed master Cylinder Brace
-Motul SP600 Brake Fluid










My PTE6266 vs. my old Blouch Dom4.0XTR
 
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#452 ·
I just got back from The Shop CT and Mikey did an awesome job on my "break-in" tune. The drivability is fantastic! Car seems to be extremely healthy also.

I do have one concern. The car is smoking a little bit of very light blue smoke. Yes, oil. But the oil level is fine, the car seems totally healthy. I'm thinking maybe oil is gunked up in the catback from the last motor that spun a bearing or the Crawford AOS is hooked up improperly. Any input?
 
#460 ·
Dave at Rallispec made a custom bracket to make it mount to the pitch stop. It came out really good and I'm super happy with the mounting because it's the highest possible spot.

Looks good man. That is a HUGE intercooler!
Thanks dude, and yeah it fills up the whole front end pretty well. lol Now hopefully it performs as well as it looks! I have a lot of faith in ETS!
 
#463 ·
It's the little things that make a difference. lol Thanks man!

Great work on this build man. Looks beautiful. Can't wait to hear what the numbers are after break in!
Thanks dude! So far the car made 400 on 17psi. We plan on going for 30-35psi on E85. As long as we have no limitations.
 
#464 ·
Anyone have nay issues with the front O2 sensor going bad (low voltage)? I get a code about every 50 or so miles saying: P0137 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2). Ever since the code popped the car is running pretty ****ty and it almost feels like the old tune is back on the car. I understand a bad O2 sensor will make the car run a bit off but my whole fueling and what not seems totally different and off.

Also, the blue smoke doesn't seem to be appearing anymore, so I'm guessing it was either gunked up oil from last motor in the mufflers, rings weren't fully set, or I'm just not seeing the smoke from where I'm sitting. From what I've read, PTE turbos have been known for the seals not working properly and letting oil pass into the exhaust side causing blue smoke. So I'll keep a good eye on it, worst case scenario, I'll contact ETS and PTE and go from there.
 
#465 ·
Anyone have nay issues with the front O2 sensor going bad (low voltage)? I get a code about every 50 or so miles saying: P0137 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2). Ever since the code popped the car is running pretty ****ty and it almost feels like the old tune is back on the car. I understand a bad O2 sensor will make the car run a bit off but my whole fueling and what not seems totally different and off.

Also, the blue smoke doesn't seem to be appearing anymore, so I'm guessing it was either gunked up oil from last motor in the mufflers, rings weren't fully set, or I'm just not seeing the smoke from where I'm sitting. From what I've read, PTE turbos have been known for the seals not working properly and letting oil pass into the exhaust side causing blue smoke. So I'll keep a good eye on it, worst case scenario, I'll contact ETS and PTE and go from there.
 
#466 ·
Oil pressure and fuel pressure gauges installed! JCS pod should be here tomorrow.

Still haven't gotten my O2 sensor problem sorted out. Not sure if it's the front or rear. Code says rear but Mikey says the front. Some people are saying rear, some are saying front. Can anyone confirm 100% weather it's the front or the back?

P0137 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

On a side note, the code hasn't reappeared after I reset the ECU (about 50 miles ago). Car is still running like sh** and Afr is real lean. It's fluctuating like crazy during idle. Anywhere from 14-16. While driving it's at 13.7-14.2 which is normal.

Anyone else go through this problem and have an answer?
 
#468 ·
Oil pressure and fuel pressure gauges installed! JCS pod should be here tomorrow.

Still haven't gotten my O2 sensor problem sorted out. Not sure if it's the front or rear. Code says rear but Mikey says the front. Some people are saying rear, some are saying front. Can anyone confirm 100% weather it's the front or the back?

P0137 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

On a side note, the code hasn't reappeared after I reset the ECU (about 50 miles ago). Car is still running like sh** and Afr is real lean. It's fluctuating like crazy during idle. Anywhere from 14-16. While driving it's at 13.7-14.2 which is normal.

Anyone else go through this problem and have an answer?
What is your afr at wot? It will fluctuate a lot at idle (although it should be right at 14.7), but when you take your foot off the gas while driving it leans way out. AFR at WOT is really what you want to be concerned about though.
 
#473 ·
Okay guys, I need some advice!

I did my fuel pump hard wire today. Made my own double relay kit. It's all wired up except for the fuel pump power wire itself. This is how I wired it so far/plan on wiring it.

a. 10 gauge power wire from battery (in-line 30 amp fuse) to relays port 30.
b. 10 gauge ground wire from relay port 86 to seat belt bolt (chassis).
c. 10 gauge power wire reduced to 16 gauge from port 85 to fuel pump trigger power.
d. 10 gauge power wire from port 87 to fuel pump wire.

As stated, I made my own custom kit with custom connections. All my wires are 10 gauge all the way to the relay, no small reduction at the relay at all, other then the reduction for the trigger wire. Now here's where my questions come into play. When I cut the wire for the fuel pump power supply outside of the fuel assembly, the wire is roughly 14-16 gauge. Would there be a problem or a drop in volts under extreme load and high IDC's if I didn't use the 10 gauge wire all the way to the pump itself? Or is that mainly what everyone does? They have a small amount of 14-16 gauge that goes into the fuel pump assembly but gets its main power from 10-12 gauge outside of the assembly.

Next question, for the ground on the fuel pump. Should I cut that wire too and use a 10 gauge ground to ground the fuel pump directly to the chassis? Or is it okay to use the oem wires (14-16 gauge) and use the oem ground?

Let me know how you guys did it.

I guess if I have to and drill 2 small holes into the fuel pump assembly to fit the 10 gauge wire through to have full 10 gauge all the way to the pump (power and ground), I'll do that. But if I'll be fine leaving the short amount of 14-16 gauge on the inside of the assembly, I'll keep it like that.

Thanks
 
#475 ·
Okay, so someone figure this out.

Did my first break-in maintenance today. Got my oil changed (10-40w non-synthetic), OEM Subaru filter and Denso 2 step colder plugs. The battery was disconnected while everything was getting changed. First crank is a little rough but it eventually starts. I drive home and the whole way home the car runs friggen amazing. It is running exactly like how it came off the dyno from break-in tune. Keep in mind, I haven't changed either of the sensors yet, the "broken sensors" are still in the car.

Fuel stumbles are gone, improper idle still there (but barely), AFR is perfect, fuel pressure is perfect.

So can someone explain to me why the car was running so ****ty and all I did was change oil, spark plugs and disconnect the battery?

I'm not complaining because the car is still running great (knock on wood), but why? Idk what was changed to make it run better? Maybe resetting the ECU through the AP doesn't truly reset the ECU, it just clears the codes while they still exist. But yet again I got a code for a bad sensor and the "bad sensor" is still in the car.

I'm confused.....
 
#476 ·
Sensors are still bad perhaps...but the car hasn't "learned" to fuel the car with the bad sensors since the latest reset. Personally, I also don't think any ecu reset is better than just popping the negative terminal off...so it's still giving fresh fuel trims, fresh ignition timing, etc. I bet if you give it a hundo miles or so, it will start feeling bad again. I'd still change out the sensors.
 
#477 ·
That's exactly what I was thinking and btw, I did disconnect the negative terminal and the car still drove like ****. Once I disconnected the positive terminal then the car ran good. Maybe I just didn't leave the negative terminal off for long enough, but that didn't fully reset the ECU to where the car drove good.

I will definitely be changing both sensors. I paid $300 for them and they will be put on. lol

BTW, since the ECU was reset, I put about 75 miles on the car with no stumbles, no lean or richness, just the car driving fantastic.
 
#478 ·
Fuel pump hard wire complete. I took my sweet time and soldered everything together then double heat shrunk all the wires to make sure for no loose connections or possible grounding out power wires.

I wound up going with a double relay setup. I went with a double relay just in case one fails under boost, I don't have to worry about the fuel pump turning off and fuel pressure going to ****.

I used 12 gauge wire for everything. The only place where it's not 12 gauge is where the wire goes from the outside of the pump housing to the actual pump itself (so maybe a foot of 14 gauge wire, which is still plenty to put 20 amps through without voltage drop).

I took a few pictures and I might try to do a write up for any of the 08+ wrx/sti people looking to do a hardwire.
 
#479 ·
Not looking good to get tuned today. My sensors still haven't came in, nor did my gauge pod (that's not a big deal, but it's just the point).

Finished my hybrid boost control setup last night, I went with 5/32" vaccum line for everything. I was able to heat up and soap the 5/32" line to fit it over the 7/32" fittings on the turbo and EWG. It came out pretty good.
 
#480 ·
Hopefully the sensors are here for tomorrow. Tune is rescheduled for Wednesday.

Started a winter detail. Will be finishing tomorrow.
-Auto scrubbed the whole car (clay bar)
-Swirl Removal
-Polish
-Wax

For winter the car will be changed up a bit.
-Skirts, lips and diffuser are coming off.
-Wheels will be switched to OEM STi BBS's wrapped in Blizzak LM-60 235/50/18
-Thule Roof Rack with Thule Fairing & Snowboard carrier going on
 
#481 ·
Sensors finally came! Also my JCS 3 gauge A-pillar pod arrived too. There pod fits perfect and matches very well with my STi trim. Very happy with their product.

Tune scheduled for Wednesday!!!
 
#484 ·
Well today's the big day! Heading to Connecticut around 2 for my tune.

We'll be doing pump gas and (Newark Airport) E85 tuning. I'm bringing the GO-PRO and my Cannon for video footage. Hopefully get some real nice results and no problems!

Keep me in your prayers! lol
 
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