I'm home from college for the summer - that means generous access to tools/uncles with knowledge, money if I can convince my mom something's worth it, and most of all, time.

It's a really long story about how the car got the name. Please don't ask.

Anyway, some old pic: (to come tomorrow - realized I don't actually have a lot of pics of the car!)

* Bushings (klunk killer, shifter stay)
* Head unit (HD rad, aux in, decent sound through stock speakers)
* poor-mans TGV deletes
* Self-tuned carberry rom (speed density)
* PCV valve delete
* Relocated IAT
* MAF delete
* Various tiny little re-wiring and bracket-delete jobs

Everything I do, I try to keep this thing a reliable DD with a lot of fun, and a smile-inducing amount of power. Drivability and real-world fun are important. I may eventually go to auto-x's (never super competitively), but I like to have the most legal fun I can have (quick > fast, turns > straights). Eventually, my power goals are around 250-300 at the wheels (no bigger than a 16g or so). My main goal, however, is to iron out all the stupid little things Subaru did, to generally improve the car fitting my guidelines of what's important, and to do as much myself as possible.

This summer, I have some more specific goals. One of my main goals is to keep myself as busy as possible, so anything I can do for free or cheap, regardless of the amount of work, I will most likely end up doing. Otherwise:
* Move the window motors off IGN power and onto ACC power
* ABS kill switch (for the winter/threshold braking practice)
* Paint up mismatched panels
* Fix rear quarter rust issues
* Fix the A/C
* Uppipe cat delete
* If I get the motivation, DIY TGV deletes.


On to my current WiP, and the reason why I'm making this thread to begin with: my speed density adventure.

It all started the last week of school (after which I would be required to make a 380 mile trip home) - I ran through a tank of gas in many less miles than it should have taken (running rich), my idle was getting rougher and rougher, and unplugging the MAF did wonders to help. So, I tried, with all $0.12 at my disposal, to clean the MAF (Q-tip and iso). Didn't work. Rather than try a different MAF in there, go nuts trying to check for leaks, etc., I did what any sensible car enthusiast would do: convert to speed density

On my first attempt, I loaded in some values for the timing, boost and fueling tables from my MAF rom into the latest Carberry rom as a start, searched through for other cool things to fiddle with, and flashed. The car starts, runs, pulls to about 3.5k before falling flat on its face and basically dumping fuel into the engine.

That's when I learned that TGV deletes are necessary to run the Carberry rom. I don't really have the time or the equipment to properly remove my intake mani, so I end up flipping the things manually, holding both sides open using the spring in the sensors (well, that's a very short version of a very frustrating story - let's just say that those TGV's will never work, ever again. Oh yeah, and if you strip the BOV bolt threads, M8x1.25 bolts work perfectly well - I've learned this the hard way, twice, although one side is helicoiled.). This TGV delete method works well, btw, if you're looking for a quick way to do this. You'll see no benefits over stock unless you're on carberry or group-n.

Anyway, that works, and I start tuning - clean up the VE map using that nice spreadsheet (I'm probably still way off where it goes open loop - I'll get a WBo2 eventually...), remove some timing where I'm seeing knock, and I make it home at a cool 25mpg (not my best, but could be a lot worse, especially considering how much I had in there)

Now that I'm home, I'm doing more to make this work well. Right now overnight, I have my free IAT relocation curing, and I'll be playing with that more when I get it all back together tomorrow. Let me explain. As recommended in this thread, I have removed my PCV valve, and I'll be re-routing the crankcase breather so that it just is sourced off the turbo inlet for vacuum. The logic makes complete sense, and eventually I'll do a catch-can setup. No need to tee the head breathers to the crank breather, as I have the stock turbo inlet, with ports for both.

However, instead of being able to find BSP threads anywhere around here, I went one step cheaper - I hacksawed the end off my PCV valve (I won't need it again, right? ), removed the valve part, and am curing the IAT taken from my MAF housing (dremeled to avoid unnecessary intake restriction) in the convenient little hole.

While my car is this far apart (I/C off and access to all the wiring back there), I figured that I should be doing a little extra too. First off, I'm getting rid of the DRL resistor (I leave my lights on all the time anyway - better to be able to shut down all lights than not). I'll either use the two-pin connector pigtails off that or the EGT for my newly relocated IAT. While I'm messing with that wiring harness anyway, I realized that I can neaten things up a hell of a lot back in that corner by pushing that whole harness down into the depths behind the turbo, and plugging everything in back there afterwards. If I were a masochist, I would totally re-do some of the harnesses (shorten, remove useless wires), but I think I won't have *that* much free time... hopefully. Bam, I've done about 2lbs total of weight reduction (of useless brackets), and everything looks a lot cleaner.

Oh yeah, and I'll have to get a picture of my BCS. I was told that shorter lines were better for solid boost control - the thing is literally holding itself up on two ~2" pieces of vacuum line, one to the compressor, one to the wastegate. The last port is VTA because I can (go SD!).

So, tomorrow I'm installing everything, doing a little rewiring (while I have the solder equipment out, I'll probably redo the window motor power source too), and if all goes well, a little more tuning like always - this time with consistent manifold air temperatures!

thanks for tuning in, I'll write more as I do more.