Modest 02 bugeye build

[Mikie13]

Mikie, not sure if you know the answer to this, but if the BPV is more effective then the BOV (i've read all the threads, the summary I understand is, the BPV re-uses the pressure and has it available for the engine quicker, and the BOV gets rid of it, causing the turbo to have to create more) Basically my question is, in what situation is the BOV better then the BPV? i was thinking the BPV would be better no matter what situation. But I guess maybe like a quick spooling turbo, it doesn't matter? I'm lost, please explain if you know.

In most instances a BOV won't be better, period. Usually they are only used in much higher horsepower situations where boost will be raised significantly higher. The stock BPV on 02-07 models are good to about 20-22psi before they run into a possibility of leaking boost. And on the 2008-2012 models, the BPV is actually known to be a lot weaker from what I've read. Replacing with aftermarket recirculating BPVs aren't a bad idea for an upgrade if you start pushing Stage 2 power levels, which usually is higher than 19psi in STIs (17psi or so in WRXs I believe).

BOVs can be run if the intake metering is changed from MAF, (which we currently have which pre-meters the air, accounting for the recirculated air pushed in from a BPV) to a MAP set up, which is manifold absolute pressure (aka Speed Density). The ECU would read the air already in the manifold as opposed to the air being metered in from the intake, in which case it wouldn't matter if the recirculated BPV charge was in there or not.

The BPV generally doesn't have anything to do with the spooling of the turbo...only with the discharging of excess pressure during shifting.

[Rambo]

^ +1. This should be stickied in the BOV thread!

[Chas]

Did you have to pull the motor?

[deepseastetson]

Yes, the motor had to come out.

[Chas]

Yeah I didn't wanna do that.. So I sold it and bought another one did you take it out yourself?

[Mikie13]

^ +1. This should be stickied in the BOV thread!

Holy **** I said something that made sense???

I feel like Frank the Tank from Old School in the debate scene. "I dunno what came over me!"

[deepseastetson]

no, i dont have the means or the time to do it so i had Subaru do it. It has been a mess ever since. After the work was done on it they gave it back to me with a CEL on. Technician ran the code and realized that he left the knock sensor unplugged when he reinstalled the motor. First day i get it back the motor starts cutting in and out hard and eventually stalling out. brought it back to the dealer and they have had it for a week because they cant figure out whats wrong. They had to call the "technician hotline" because they think its either the ECU or the ignition switch relay but they dont know.

Thread from the dealership making me mad The dealership is killing me.

[Mike193]

In most instances a BOV won't be better, period. Usually they are only used in much higher horsepower situations where boost will be raised significantly higher. The stock BPV on 02-07 models are good to about 20-22psi before they run into a possibility of leaking boost. And on the 2008-2012 models, the BPV is actually known to be a lot weaker from what I've read. Replacing with aftermarket recirculating BPVs aren't a bad idea for an upgrade if you start pushing Stage 2 power levels, which usually is higher than 19psi in STIs (17psi or so in WRXs I believe).

BOVs can be run if the intake metering is changed from MAF, (which we currently have which pre-meters the air, accounting for the recirculated air pushed in from a BPV) to a MAP set up, which is manifold absolute pressure (aka Speed Density). The ECU would read the air already in the manifold as opposed to the air being metered in from the intake, in which case it wouldn't matter if the recirculated BPV charge was in there or not.

The BPV generally doesn't have anything to do with the spooling of the turbo...only with the discharging of excess pressure during shifting.

Thank you very much for clarifying, I understand a bit better now. Sorry for going off topic a bit here.

[Mikie13]

Thank you very much for clarifying, I understand a bit better now. Sorry for going off topic a bit here.

Not a problem

[deepseastetson]

Update on the dealer fiasco:
So the dealer heard back from the "technician hotline" (I think its hilarious that they tell me that) and they sent the dealer some wiring schematics to go through. he told me it was a long process to check all the wiring but i was not being charged for it. They have no idea what is causing the problem but he did say that i could be a pinched line from reinstalling the motor. This makes sense to me because i dont think they did a very good job. so this means the dealer is still going to have my car for a bit longer. meanwhile i am driving a base model 2012 forester piece of crap courtesy car.

[Mikie13]

Why's it so crappy? I thought the new Foresters were supposed to be pretty nice.

[deepseastetson]

Its like super baseline. horrible stereo. very plain interior, and gets horrible gas mileage. I just really miss my car because i had just done a bunch of driveline and suspension work and i LOVE driving it. The dealer said it was most likely going to take a long time to go through the electrical to find the problem.

[Rambo]

Horrible mileage? It's rated for 21/27, better than your bugeye. I imagine you're driving the nuts off of it trying to match the WRX's feel though.

[Mikie13]

Ah yeah I can imagine. Just a bland ride then...well, hope they figure it out asap for you

[deepseastetson]

oh the little MPG reader on the dash is always reading like 12-15. it probably needs to be reset at fill up to get an accurate reading. My WRX gets like 350 mile per tank and i think its like a 15.9 gal tank and i never run it to super empty so i think i get like 21-25 MPG. When i fill it it is rare that it takes more than 12 gallons so who knows.