This is a discussion on Rambo's Bugeye Build within the Builds forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Originally Posted by zax...
Stage II Update!
Finished the uppipe swap today, and reinstalled the headers with all new gaskets and hardware. NAPA messed up my donut gasket order, so that won't be in stock till Friday now. I'm going to try to recover the old one in the meantime.
While I was messing around under the car, I also finally got the rear shifter bushing on. On bugeyes, it is MUCH easier to access the rear bushing with the downpipe removed, so with the stock downpipe out of there, it was a pretty straightforward job.
I didn't have any horror stories with sheared studs or anything like that, but PB Blaster was definitely my best friend. My 24mm swaybar did prevent me from getting a socket around the engine mount bolt. After fighting with it for an hour, I was able to loosen the swaybar brackets enough to gently nudge the swaybar out of the way enough for the socket to bite. I still stripped the hell out of the nut, so I replaced it with a new one after pulling the stock uppipe out.
Grimmspeed pipe installed. Note how much clearance there is around the pipe now compared to the bulky stock pipe:
Heat shield mod. Subaru made the passenger manifold shielding with a hole so you HAD to remove the front O2 sensor to remove the shield. I dremeled a cutout in the heat shield so it could be easily slipped on and off around the O2 sensor if necessary:
Cobb downpipe test fit:
My "Build" Thread!
2006 WRX TR
Hawk-Eye Alliance #1856...ssshhh don't tell anyone!
Ok, I finally got RomRaider all straightened out, so here are some good datalogs of the Testes map for those interested:
Check out the "thirdgear_fullpull" file first. This was WOT in 3rd from 2k to ~6.8k. NO FBKC, woot! I did notice at the end of the pull that my injectors are just about maxxed. Should I look into some fueling upgrades, or focus on the map first?
The second log called "some_knock" was a cruising speed log. I briefly caught -2.11 FBKC when I was off throttle, but it zeroed out again right after. I'm not sure what that's about, the road was a little rough in places, so maybe that was a factor. I found it odd that it would pop up there, but not on my full pull (which was in the other direction on the road, and smoother). Not sure what to make of that. Any thoughts?
Also of note: This is basically the "stock" testes map, with the exception of the Knock Correction Advance table set to 6 across the board, as opposed to 8 originally. This was recommended to me since I can only get 92 octane gas in my area.
Colder weather will increase your IDCs. I wouldn't really worry about it just yet. Bugeye injectors get maxed on S2 tunes, similar to STIs.Originally Posted by Rambo
If knock isn't repeatable, I don't worry about it. As I mentioned, you should be looking at some other parameters. Cruise knock is often false knock.Originally Posted by Rambo
Once we get the boost squared away, we can look at bumping up the KCA table.Originally Posted by Rambo
FS: (For Sale) 1982 Subaru Brat - NASIOC
It's an '82, so it even has the "cyclops eye" driving light hidden behind the front emblem. I love quicky old Subaru things like that.
Changed the KCA table from 6 to 7 and ran a few logs. Pretty uneventful, no FBKC at WOT, although I saw it pop up sporadically as I was driving to the log road. Not reproducible though, so I'm not worried.
Link to logs, the new ones are titled "KCA_7...":
Installed the AEM wideband gauge that's been sitting on a shelf for two months. Still need to figure out hooking it up to a datalogger, but the gauge itself is working great. I used the Cobb O2 sensor port, which required removing a set screw plug. Even though the downpipe is brand new with only 400 miles on it, that plug would not budge. To help it budge, I dug around my socket set until I had this contraption:
From left to right: 10MM Allen wrench => 10mm socket with 3/8" ratchet drive => 1/2" to 3/8" ratchet drive adapter => 1/2" drive 18" breaker bar.
This let me get a good bite on the screw and eventually coax it loose without having to remove any heat shielding (thank God) or the I/C. The O2 sensor was painless, as I already have an O2 sensor crowfoot tool, so after coating the threads with anti-seize, that cinched down with no issues.
Everything else was a snap until it came time to wire up the gauge. There's no dimmer, so it just needs ACC power and ground. Easy right? Well, I managed to **** it all up royally:
My existing boost gauge used vampire clips to draw constant 12V (for settings memory), ACC, dimmer, and ground. All of these were tapped off the clock wiring. I tried to add in the new WB wiring to the existing vampire clips, but the clips were being fussy, so I ended up with neither gauge working.
At this point, I decided to just do the job right and solder everything. As I went to cut the clock wiring, the large spark across my leatherman, and subsequent acrid plastic smoke reminded me I was a dumbass and hadn't disconnected the battery yet. D'oh!!! Now my clock circuit fuse was blown, and of course I was all out of spare 15A fuses, so I had to run to Radio Shack and pick up a refill.
After I disconnected the battery and replaced the fuse, I started soldering. Let me tell you, soldering in the car SUCKS...
After burning myself with the iron, splattering molten solder on my wrists, and inventing all sort of creative swear words, I ended with the most embarrassing wiring job I've ever made:
After the pic was taken, I did go back and insulate everything, then wrap it up. It doesn't look much better, but it's safe and works! Now I just need to figure out the logging aspect. The blue and white wires are for analog or RS-232 signal output, just need to figure out how to get one of them to play nice with the OP2.0.
The fruits of my efforts:
Very nice! I love that STI cluster still.
My "Build" Thread!
2006 WRX TR
Hawk-Eye Alliance #1856...ssshhh don't tell anyone!
I always used the blue analog wire to data log with hp tuners.
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Zach | Moderator | Builds, Electronics/Car Audio, Engine Modifications, Mid-Atlantic States, Suspension & Wheels, Tech & Modifying & General Repairs |
Rollin' with the Bugeye Mafia #302
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I need to get an 04 cluster now..
02 Bugeye WRX // 02 Acura RSX Type-S
Bugeye Mafia #421
Sadly, my bugeye gave its life for mine in June. I was driving home after working nights on a special project (I'm used to working a normal 8-5 day). I was exhausted and not as alert as I should have been, and somehow lost control of the car on a turn in the highway. I spun, slid into a tree, then bounced into an empty grass lot. The officers on the scene later gave me a minor ticket for not driving more carefully, but since I'd had no intention of speeding or recklessness, and nobody else was affected, they let me off lightly. Nobody else was involved, thankfully, and I walked away with only minor neck strain, a splitting headache, and some cuts/bruises. I got checked out at the ER, and other than some muscle tension, I was fine.
The impact compressed the entire dash, and punched a bulge out of the driver's side. By absorbing the force through the upper dash, my legs in the footwell were protected. Note that even with the tremendous force on the side the car, the door held fast. Had there been a passenger, their legs would not have been impacted.
Passenger side airbag deployed, but I was the only one in the car. Newer cars have passenger detection that disable the passenger airbags if nobody is sitting there.
Frame deflection where the car hit the tree.
After these pictures were taken, I packed up all my personal belongings (including the Yakima roof rack, which was untouched), and said goodbye. I'll admit I was crying as I saw exactly how the car saved my life. It gave everything it had to keep me alive, and is a first-hand testament to how well-engineered Subarus, and indeed most modern vehicles, are.
We may complain about noisy gearboxes, cheap interiors, or occasional engine woes, but none of that matters when you're snapping back to consciousness with dirt and glass everywhere, realizing you're still very much alive, can still open the door, and can climb out of the car unassisted. It's what makes a Subaru, a Subaru.
I've closed the thread, Isaac, since I believe the pictures and your statements say it all about that car. I want it to go out with honor/dignity (much like euthanizing a suffering pet), and I think your last post did just that...
If you want me to re-open this, shoot me a text, and I'll gladly do it.
Originally Posted by Rambo