WRX 2.0 rebuild
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This is a discussion on WRX 2.0 rebuild within the Builds forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Ok, I'm not a newbie to rebuilding engines... if they are the V or inline versions. Never rebuilt a flat ...

  1. #1
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    WRX 2.0 rebuild

    Ok, I'm not a newbie to rebuilding engines... if they are the V or inline versions. Never rebuilt a flat 4 and can't imagine it's much different.

    My step son spun 2 rod bearings, 1 and 4. Not much for metal shavings throughout that I could see upon initial inspection but that only included the bottom of the pan, and the oil pick up screen.

    The engine has not been pulled yet and I still have to look at and/or measure the cylinder walls, pistons, rings, ring clearances, cranks shaft journals, connecting rods, etc.

    I know we can reuse headbolts and block through bolts, etc.

    So here is my question, assuming I measure and tolerences come back as still within specs, is there anything aside from rod bearings, main bearings, and a complete gasket set that I should consider replacing on this motor?

    It has +/-76,000 miles on it. He has limited funds to work with. Again, assuming much without pulling the engine, I can pull it, boil it, turn the crank, get oversized bearings, replace all gaskets, and update the oil pickup for about $800.

    Minumum on a shortblock that I've found is about $1650 and that doesn't include a master gasket set for $250ish plus an upgraded pickup for about the same.


    Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

    Thank you in advance,
    Michael
    Last edited by flewthecoupe; 01-30-2012 at 11:31 AM.

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    Registered User oguitar's Avatar
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    You might as well get new cylinder rings they love to crack.
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    Administrator RayfieldsWRX's Avatar
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    I assume that you would also put in a new timing belt, given the mileage and hard driving. Good luck!
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    ClubWRX.net Vendor adam@kronosperformance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RayfieldsWRX View Post
    I assume that you would also put in a new timing belt, given the mileage and hard driving. Good luck!
    Good Point.

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    Thanks everyone... talked to a machine shop... and to some others... no one recommends keeping the crank once a bearing is spun.. nor the rods for a whole that spun a bearing... so now looking at a short block regardless.

    so.. the machine shop also recommended redoing the heads, adjustments, pucks (never heard of pucks). thoughts on that?

  7. #6
    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    I don't know what pucks are.

    I am guessing the car is driven hard. If the car has no mapping (reflashed ECU) and you go the short block route, be aware you will need to remap for a 2.5L short block (few do a 2.0L at this point as the $ for the hardware is comparable).

    If the car has no map, and your stepson has the original parts available, consider using the stock parts and finding a wreck with a good motor and putting it back on the road on the cheap, never to be driven hard again.

    If you start adding up machining costs for two heads, a two-part split block, etc., etc., plus front cover stuff, all pumps, and so on, the $ adds up too quickly.
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    ClubWRX.net Vendor adam@kronosperformance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flewthecoupe View Post
    Thanks everyone... talked to a machine shop... and to some others... no one recommends keeping the crank once a bearing is spun.. nor the rods for a whole that spun a bearing... so now looking at a short block regardless.

    so.. the machine shop also recommended redoing the heads, adjustments, pucks (never heard of pucks). thoughts on that?
    I have a brand new crankshaft that has been in my living room that ive been trying to sell. Let me know if you want it cheap...
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    Pucks...maybe shims to adjust the valves?

    From memory, here is what I've found for some pricing for OEM or aftermarket OEM "quality":
    Crank: $305
    Rod Bearings: $50
    Main Bearings: $60
    Rods: $250
    Piston and Rings: $180 (and these are probably cheapo)
    Plus assembly of all parts. Do the connecting rods require being heated to get the wrist pins in on these motors? That's $10 a pop unless I can put them in the oven but I don't remember an oven getting hot enough.

    Extras
    Master Gasket Set: $250
    Timing Belt: $50
    Head work/adjustment: $450 (but not sure if that's for both, I assume per head which is the norm for quotes)
    Oil pump: $150

    And he will need someone to map the ECU because it does have a bigger turbo, i don't know if it has a chip or what so that's another $400

    I could adjust the heads myself... but... spun bearing, bearing material in oil = the heads should be pulled apart, and checked, too.

    Crap... honestly not the word I want to use.

  10. #9
    Administrator RayfieldsWRX's Avatar
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    Ah, bigger turbo adds another layer of complexity. Should we assume that he has the supporting mods to push a bigger turbo? (Usually fuel pump, injectors, and people generally combine it with a downpipe and upipe)

    Did he have the turbo swap prior to spinning the bearing? Was tuning done to accommodate it? This may be a bigger kettle of fish than you think. Around here, people go in 2 general directions for tuning; open source or cobbtuning.com. Whatever way you go will need to be in sync with the preferences of whatever tuner you go to.
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    He bought the car with the turbo with bigger pipes. He's a little handheld programmer, I'm assuming, kind of like a BullyDog for diesels. Don't know what he's done if anything which may or may not have added to the problem. As far as bigger anything for fuel delivery.. not sure.

  12. #11
    Administrator RayfieldsWRX's Avatar
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    Have a look at the programmer, which may be a Cobb AccessPort. If that's what it is, you'll just need to find a recommended tuner that can do a "Protune", and you'll be in (hopefully) good hands.
    --Ray
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