Hold_Fast's ESP/SM/AutoX/Track build. Because race car.

[Hold_Fast]

Just got a great deal on a Eibach 22mm rear sway bar and end links,so now I just need to figure out what I want to do for the front. Why can't I find a sway bar bigger than 22mm for the front of a wagon? If someone else knows of a company that makes one, let me know.

Also going to drop off a rental application for a cheap rental garage, so I can hopefully start getting these parts on. It's a huge place, so if anyone in the area ever needs to work on their car indoors, let me know!

[Hold_Fast]

Bump for a big front sway bar for wagons.

[Sinister]

get the TiC SST coils

[Hold_Fast]

^^Yeah, Ive been thinking that's the way I will go. But I've also been drooling over these:

AST 4150 Series Damper Announced - Tech Thread - NASIOC

Roughly the same price with springs too...decisions, decisions.

[zax]

Bump for a big front sway bar for wagons.

Perrin has 25mm front swaybars

http://www.perrinperformance.com/sub.../front-swaybar

But I know for a fact that the Perrin endlinks get very clunky after a few years of use.

[Hold_Fast]

Perrin has 25mm front swaybars

PERRIN Performance — — Front Swaybar

But I know for a fact that the Perrin endlinks get very clunky after a few years of use.

The fact that they claim they will work for both wagon's and sedan's is what bothers me. I'd rather get something wagon specific then have to do a half assed job of trying to make the sedan version fit.

I can't seem to find anyone who actually runs the Perrin front sway bar on a wagon either, so that leaves me with ordering one and doing the test fit.

[zax]

I can't seem to find anyone who actually runs the Perrin front sway bar on a wagon either, so that leaves me with ordering one and doing the test fit.

Oh yeah... except me.

[Hold_Fast]

Oh yeah... except me.

Orly?? Well my apologies good sir. So I take it everything worked A-OK then?

[zax]

Orly?? Well my apologies good sir. So I take it everything worked A-OK then?

The main modification is that you have to drill out the control-arm mount for a wider bolt to install the endlinks. It's not a huge issue since there is plenty of material to allow for a ~1 mm wider hole. Remember, it's not really the sway-bar that is different between the sedan and wagon, it's the endlinks: the endlinks account for the disparity between the track width and so on. Perrin's issue is that they opted to use the same design for the sedan and wagon endlinks, but with spacers to account for the different geometry. The setup has not caused major problems on my Bugeye, but the endlinks have begun to develop a fair amount of clunk when driven hard. The car still handles predictably, so it's mainly an annoyance.

[Hold_Fast]

The main modification is that you have to drill out the control-arm mount for a wider bolt to install the endlinks. It's not a huge issue since there is plenty of material to allow for a ~1 mm wider hole. Remember, it's not really the sway-bar that is different between the sedan and wagon, it's the endlinks: the endlinks account for the disparity between the track width and so on. Perrin's issue is that they opted to use the same design for the sedan and wagon endlinks, but with spacers to account for the different geometry. The setup has not caused major problems on my Bugeye, but the endlinks have begun to develop a fair amount of clunk when driven hard. The car still handles predictably, so it's mainly an annoyance.

I've read about the modifications to the endlinks, which I was "Meh" about since I'll be doing mostly auto cross and some HPDE's. I may just go with some good ol' fashioned Kartboy's for the front and spacer the crap out of them. Thanks for the heads up. It seems like I already missed the Perrin holday sale though.

[Sinister]

I have had my perrin endlinks for 5 years with no clunk.

[Hold_Fast]

I'll look into the Perrin's. The Kartboy's are cheaper, and I won't have to modify them for the wagon control arms. But, my local shop (JSC Speed) carries them, so I know I can get them locally.

I added a new goal for this winter. Weight reduction. After reading through a couple threads on NASIOC about all the crap people pull off of their cars to shed some serious pounds, I figured it's another good thing to put some time into. So as I start going through the engine bay this weekend and pulling apart the interior, all useless brackets, sound deadening, and other nonsense will be removed. I'll try to document the total amount I removed as I go.

[Hold_Fast]

Just saw the first Philly auto-x is March 18th. Time to get my ass in gear.

I've had my little work shop leased for about a week now. I'm hoping to get the intake manifold & TGV's pulled this weekend, and get them up to Ryan at Area1320 to do some P&P on the manifold and delete the TGV's. From there, I'll have a thermal coating applied to both from Liquid Powder Coats.

Then, to focus on suspension....

[Heide264]

Builds coming along =). Good luck!

I helped my friend replace a bent rear trailing arm a few weeks ago. Removing that ~10" long bolt from both of them required 2x cast iron vices (one broke), a saw zaw, a torch, half a can of pb blaster I swear, a few various sized hammers, and a crap ton of patience. In the end, it appeared that the bolt had seized to the metal sleeve within the bushing on the trailing arm we weren't replacing. Ended up pressing out the other bushing with two sockets and pushing it into the end we needed. The bushings are slightly different, but its better than what it was.

[Hold_Fast]

Builds coming along =). Good luck!

I helped my friend replace a bent rear trailing arm a few weeks ago. Removing that ~10" long bolt from both of them required 2x cast iron vices (one broke), a saw zaw, a torch, half a can of pb blaster I swear, a few various sized hammers, and a crap ton of patience. In the end, it appeared that the bolt had seized to the metal sleeve within the bushing on the trailing arm we weren't replacing. Ended up pressing out the other bushing with two sockets and pushing it into the end we needed. The bushings are slightly different, but its better than what it was.

Mother of god. How many miles did he have on that thing?

I'm hoping that a multi-day soak in PB blaster will help loosen things up. I also just got a 3' steel cheater bar for my breaker bar (), and if that doesn't work, I'll take a torch to that SOB. But I'm praying it is easier than your experience.