Rawr... My 2011 STi Build Log - Page 2
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This is a discussion on Rawr... My 2011 STi Build Log within the Builds forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Kartboy Rear Endlink Install: This was my first install that went as planned actually. I was hoping that I could ...

  1. #16
    Registered User Heide264's Avatar
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    Kartboy Rear Endlink Install:

    This was my first install that went as planned actually. I was hoping that I could do one... and then the other, but I did have to take both off at once to rotate the sway bar around a bit. I got these slightly discounted off of the super shifter group buy, so I thought I'd put them on the stock bar for now. It will be upgraded in a bit when I get more cash. Apparently sway bars are significantly more expensive than driveline bushings.

    Make sure you keep the suspension loaded when doing this. I used my ramps, which I use whenever possible over jack stands. I feel more secure, and I feel its easier on the car.

    I couldn't get them to line up perfectly vertical with the stock bar. You can see the best I could get in the pictures. I would be concerned about them not being vertical, but the bushings aren't being torqued funny at all, so I am okay with it. If anybody thinks I should fix them, I will just buy a sway bar this time.

    Biggest problem was getting the bolt on the top on. Not much clearance back there, and the locking bolt that I got with the end links was not kidding around. That sucker was exhausting.

    Only two pictures for this one.

    Final product to view orientation on ramps:


    ...and a comparison shot. Note how the stock ones are spherical... These are not:


    Impressions:
    Back end seems to be better planted. Still rolls, but the tires seem to want to stick better. Hard to explain. Better. Not perfect still. A larger sway bar will help a lot. Overall, I was gonna do it anyhow, might as well enjoy it until I get the bars =)
    Quote Originally Posted by Trainrex
    He was throwing balloons filled with sulfuric acid and shrapnel at the swat team. They finally had to take him down with rubber bullets.
    2011 STi Build Log
    -Part 1 - Reading, Data Logging, and Analyzing Data
    -Part 2 - Turbocharger 101 & Basic Boost Control
    -Part 3 - EcuFlash, Experimental Defintions, and a Drive By Wire Intro

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  3. #17
    Registered User sjcurtis's Avatar
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    Damn those look a lot better than the oem ones!

  4. #18
    Registered User Heide264's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sjcurtis View Post
    Damn those look a lot better than the oem ones!
    Yep. It should be noted that some people like the stock end links better. They are spherical, and may deflect less than the non-spherical. The bushing on the bottom of the OEM ones I believe is their downfall. Also, a bit more heft would make me feel better if I was using the OEM.
    Last edited by Heide264; 06-07-2011 at 05:18 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Trainrex
    He was throwing balloons filled with sulfuric acid and shrapnel at the swat team. They finally had to take him down with rubber bullets.
    2011 STi Build Log
    -Part 1 - Reading, Data Logging, and Analyzing Data
    -Part 2 - Turbocharger 101 & Basic Boost Control
    -Part 3 - EcuFlash, Experimental Defintions, and a Drive By Wire Intro

  5. #19
    Registered User Heide264's Avatar
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    Kartboy Rear Differential Inserts/Bushings Install:

    Install:
    Went as planned. Somehow.

    The ones in the front member (the bar that goes under the diff) went very smoothly. Much smoother than planned. First, busted out my high quality jack to support the differential. I only took the bolt out of the left one - looking at the car from the rear - and the two ones that are vertical through it. I pulled it down enough to slip the bushings in. Supporting the diff with the jack (close to the member itself) was key here.

    The ones in the back are kind of a pain. I used c-clamps to slowly and smoothly press the tops of them in enough to get the washer/bolt threaded. The double sided bolts stayed in the diff for me. I turned the jack up just enough so that I could see the bushings start to distort, then lowered it. I assumed that was a good compromise. In my pictures, you can see the slight ring around the bolt created from raising/lowering the diff.

    I dunno if that was according to book, but it worked pretty smoothly. I included a shot of the tech manual for torque specs as well.
    In the package:


    Torque Specs for bolts in question:


    End targets. Keep in mind both bushings on the support go in the left side looking at the rear of the car. One faces front, one faces rear. It's weird. I know.


    Voids on the top/back two bushings:


    A big picture of my set up to get those top ones in. I just used a c clamp to gently squeeze from the back of that top member to the top of the bushing. Note my awesome high quality jack.


    Just another so you can get a good idea of what you are working with. The more pictures for me the better normally:



    Impressions:
    Wow. Similar to the rear sub frame bushings, only a much more dramatic effect. Shifting is a bit less audible, and the power goes to the ground. No 'spring action' Subaru anymore =). I really feel that the car is easier to drive, and 'rowing the boat' is even more enjoyable now.

    I am pretty stoked to get the Xmember bushings, Group N Tranny mount, and all of the shifter bushings/KB lever in. Just need my 1/2" larger breaker bar from harbor freight. Darn Xmember spline 17mm. Those suckers are evil.
    Quote Originally Posted by Trainrex
    He was throwing balloons filled with sulfuric acid and shrapnel at the swat team. They finally had to take him down with rubber bullets.
    2011 STi Build Log
    -Part 1 - Reading, Data Logging, and Analyzing Data
    -Part 2 - Turbocharger 101 & Basic Boost Control
    -Part 3 - EcuFlash, Experimental Defintions, and a Drive By Wire Intro

  6. #20
    Moderator Donkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Heide264 View Post
    MAF cleaning:



    MAF pulled out:

    The arrow is pointing to the IAT sensor,not the MAF. The MAF is up in the tube. Two wires towards the top
    Last edited by Donkey; 06-07-2011 at 06:11 PM.
    Resident Adviser @ WTF Tuning, LLC
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  7. #21
    Moderator rage-wrx's Avatar
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    Great job.I think I'll be doing the rear diff bushings as well.Any nvh after install?

    I also got the rear endlinks off of the GB,just waiting to order the sways & front enlinks first & then install all at once.

    Have to put off mods till next month because of the damn car insurance payment.
    T0ny
    2011 WRX
    2012 FXT

    The Big 2011/2012 Mod Thread


    Ooh,hang on. That is the throb of a turbocharged flat four engine. A sound which,all over the world,heralds the imminent arrival of a moron - JC.

  8. #22
    Registered User Heide264's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Donkey View Post
    The arrow is pointing to the IAT sensor,not the MAF. The MAF is up in the tube. Two wires towards the top
    Oh, thanks Donkey. I sprayed that too, but I didn't mark it. Would spraying the IAT hurt it at all?


    I will fix the original post to avoid confusion today.


    Quote Originally Posted by rage-wrx View Post
    Great job.I think I'll be doing the rear diff bushings as well.Any nvh after install?

    I also got the rear endlinks off of the GB,just waiting to order the sways & front enlinks first & then install all at once.

    Have to put off mods till next month because of the damn car insurance payment.
    No NVH that I noticed. It may be me, but I hear my engine going into engine braking a little bit more now with fluctuations in throttle. I'm guessing becuase I don't have that time where my driveline is squishing to get back on the throttle smoothly. I might be all wet too. I would strongly advise these inserts. Even my girlfriend commented that the car feels better.

    If you have them handy, just throw them on. You aren't repeating any work, and it's wasn't hard at all for me to work around the sway bar.
    Quote Originally Posted by Trainrex
    He was throwing balloons filled with sulfuric acid and shrapnel at the swat team. They finally had to take him down with rubber bullets.
    2011 STi Build Log
    -Part 1 - Reading, Data Logging, and Analyzing Data
    -Part 2 - Turbocharger 101 & Basic Boost Control
    -Part 3 - EcuFlash, Experimental Defintions, and a Drive By Wire Intro

  9. #23
    Moderator Donkey's Avatar
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    It won't hurt the IAT. You definitely want that clean as well!
    Resident Adviser @ WTF Tuning, LLC
    2002 FORESTER S
    1998 FORESTER S




  10. #24
    Registered User Heide264's Avatar
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    Driveline 'Overhaul':

    So this covers most of the 6MT Super Shift Kit group buy from a bit ago. To summarize:
    • KB 6MT Short Throw Shift Lever
    • KB 6MT Pivot Bushings (They go in the actual lever part)
    • KB 6MT Linkage Bushings (These go in the linkage before it hits the tranny)
    • KB Front Shifter Bushing (This helps hold the pivot point of the lever in place)
    • KB Rear Shifter Bushing (Same as Front Bushing, only in the rear)
    • Group N Transmission mount (Big rubber brick that is inbetween crossmember and transmission)
    • TiC Crossmember Bushings (they are cherry blossom red, enough said)


    I have them labeled with pictures up above under my box of goodies if you want. I didn't take too many pictures compared to stock.

    Install:
    Agh. That was rough. Hands down, (expected) hard install for me. I am still a mechanical noob, and I was not sure that I'd be able to finish this installation after getting into it. There is a lot that can go wrong in this install, and I first hand found everything. If you plan on simply following instructions, plan for the car to be in the air for two days. Instructions should just be a supplement - you need a frekin battle plan for this.

    I would be more than willing to offer advice to anybody that does this. There is advice all over the internet - I used all of it, and still have some further tips I think. Really read around before trying this. I have some pictures to help anybody in question out, and will comment as I go through them. It was too long and stressful of an install to have organized thoughts and full install instructions.

    Basically, my battle plan looking back at it:
    -Get back of car on ramps. I like ramps. They always work as expected.
    -Take center console apart to get shift lever out
    -Prepare KB lever, being careful to not drop a pivot bushing down drain
    -Jack front of car up as high as possible
    -Remove crossmember parts and tranny mount. Use jack to manipulate transmission.
    -Extend and block reverse lockout (I was out of order, but it works either way)
    -Loosen front bushing stay thingy
    -Somehow, get the linkage unattached from the transmission
    -Assuring that the rubber is free from the metal plate inside of the car, pull entire assembly down
    -At bench, replace all bushings - soak rear in hot water to get it on. Use grease.
    -Somehow, get assembly back to where it was
    -Thread one bolt of the rear bushing on as a temporary support
    -Somehow, get the linkage back attached. Verify you didn't screw up the orientation of the linkage.
    -Get front stay back attached - don't snap bolt
    -Somehow, get both the rear stay bolts threaded and torqued
    -I put the lever back on here so I could test it out here.
    -Verify that the shifter works as planned, and secure reverse lockout cable to the stay (away from drive shaft)
    -Remove reverse lockout mechanism (mine was a cut off nail)
    -Bolt new transmission mount back on
    -Bolt crossmember parts back on, replacing bushings as you go
    -Hope you didn't screw up
    -Put console back together and drink copious amounts of beer after testing

    Pictures (Large and over kill as normal):
    Prep your interior. There will be grease involved. I can't imagine that alcantara gets along well with white lithium:


    First group are pictures to take the center console apart. Hopefully this saves some sorry soul from breaking any little clips.
    First two screws to undo:


    Next, get the parking brake boot loose. Careful with the leather. I started by getting the clips loose on the bottom by pulling up as shown:


    Remove screw under parking brake boot:


    Pull piece straight BACK:


    Remove crap from cubby hole. Pull piece mostly back - take some muscles but these clips are more durable:


    I just popped the light power off - there is enough slack you can just set it on the floor too. This is what you are left with eventually. There is no snap for the shifter boot. Just pull it up over the little ledge its on after removing the shift knob:


    After you take the rubber bolts off and get the dust boot out:


    Note the evil C clip. Even with C-clip pliers that sucker is a PITA for me. Also, you will need to loosen that metal 'frame' piece to pull the rubber part down later on. I'd just do it now.:


    Everything out and compared to stock:


    Beer break time. Yes I'm cheating and starting before the fat lady sings. This install sucks. Take it in small doses and take lots of breaks for your own good:


    On my car, this was my inital view of my target area. Note all the sharp crap between me and my goal:


    Pair of tin snips and a reality smack from another member led me to save my hands, put the car on a tad bit of a diet, and maybe kill a tree or two. This will not be going back on:


    New target, now visible:


    I used a 2" or so nail without a sharp point on the end and jammed the reverse lockout. There was a convieneint hole in both parts so I figured why not. Worked very well. Picture A:


    Picture B:


    Shifter assembly amazingly out of car. New bushings on. Note the time lapse where I was too ****ed off to take any pictures. Good luck getting to this point. Jack manipulation under the tranny is key throughout this whole install. I shoved the transmission over, but I had to push so hard I thought I was going to break something. It took most of my strength. No idea why. But, I got it. Sucks to be you - mines done.


    One thing I noticed was that the kartboy bolt would not thread when I went to put the rear bushing up. Note how the stock one has a 'helper' area:


    I tried going at it with a dremel. As expected, it didn't help anyhow. Just man up, get the passenger side one threaded first. Then get the driver side one in there somehow.


    Yep. I got it. Its on there and torqued to whatever my arm felt like torquing it to. Those little bendy-joint socket extensions that I never find a use for saved my ***. Again, one of those, 'sucks to be you' issues. Just keep trying and don't strip it out by strong arming it.


    So that's my install help. Feel free to ask me any questions about it if you haven't done it already. Really, I had a hard time with it. But, it was completely worth it...


    Impressions:
    Wow. Just wow.
    First impression - I could feel when my shifter was in the gate. Clearly. With a nice, 'thunk' confirmation. No fluff or questions asked. It was in there. Could feel it enter the gear all the way down to the transmission without any loss of feeling.
    Second impression - holy short throw. I had the factory short throw. To my understanding, the linkage on it is shorter, so that multiplies the affect of the KB lever. I don't know how true that statement is, but its really nice and short nonetheless.
    Third impression - I can feel/hear my transmission now. A nice 'whirrrr' in lower RPMs and mostly 1st/2nd gear. I love it. I could see some not liking this. Mainly girlfriends and men without balls (cough, mango). Just kidding. The car is noticeably louder inside. I mostly blame the mount and Xmember bushings. I would not look over this detail if you are concerned about noise.
    Fourth impression - I feel much more connected to my car. Even less slop in the driveline. I like it a lot more. A whole lot more.
    Fifth impression - In addition to the third impression, the transmission at higher RPMs is an even better experience now. It adds a lot to a WOT pull that is impossible to describe.

    Now I want to put my engine mounts on .
    Last edited by Heide264; 07-09-2011 at 04:32 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Trainrex
    He was throwing balloons filled with sulfuric acid and shrapnel at the swat team. They finally had to take him down with rubber bullets.
    2011 STi Build Log
    -Part 1 - Reading, Data Logging, and Analyzing Data
    -Part 2 - Turbocharger 101 & Basic Boost Control
    -Part 3 - EcuFlash, Experimental Defintions, and a Drive By Wire Intro

  11. #25
    Registered User irvin787878's Avatar
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    Good job on the write up.
    HAWK-EYE ALLIANCE #7878
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    My work in progress. http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/off-to...ld-thread.html

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    U.S. Combat Veteran (3ID) Stu_Gotti's Avatar
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    Nice!
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  13. #27
    Moderator rage-wrx's Avatar
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    Very nice write up & pics.

    You're right about the rear bushing bolts.I got the first one in easy,then fought with the the second one for the good part of an hour.Somehow I got it in there.I do not know how.

    Someone told me that the whine you hear in 1st & 2nd is due to the new rear bushing.I for one love it.
    T0ny
    2011 WRX
    2012 FXT

    The Big 2011/2012 Mod Thread


    Ooh,hang on. That is the throb of a turbocharged flat four engine. A sound which,all over the world,heralds the imminent arrival of a moron - JC.

  14. #28
    Registered User Heide264's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. Trust me, if you don't have these, you should get them. I didn't think there was anything wrong with the shifter feel before this - other than going into 3rd instead of 5th time to time. Now I know what it should have felt like from the factory. Wow. Even my dad got in and was doubting the change on the way to the car. He popped it into reverse and, "Wow. That is really, really nice and crisp."

    Quote Originally Posted by rage-wrx View Post
    Very nice write up & pics.

    You're right about the rear bushing bolts.I got the first one in easy,then fought with the the second one for the good part of an hour.Somehow I got it in there.I do not know how.

    Someone told me that the whine you hear in 1st & 2nd is due to the new rear bushing.I for one love it.
    It's hard to describe. The whine is pretty cool. The really awesome feeling is under WOT now though. Just as the pitch stop gives you a bit of vibration in your seat, the transmission mount adds to it when you are in the higher RPMs for me. I am really stoked for the engine mounts, but I am fighting the urge and waiting until I get a set of sway bars.

    I'm torn on what to do next. I want to get my car aligned finally, but there are a few things I'd like to put on if I'm getting it aligned. I'd also really like a set of either RCE blacks or yellows as well as a set of their sways. I may just go get an alignment with nothing fancy for now... Then sways... Then after I get one of my two loans paid off in a month or two I can put some money aside for the full blown strut/spring combo from RCE =).

    Car is a blast to drive now though. Everything I've done has really helped the car out, and pretty glad I picked the path I did so far.
    Quote Originally Posted by Trainrex
    He was throwing balloons filled with sulfuric acid and shrapnel at the swat team. They finally had to take him down with rubber bullets.
    2011 STi Build Log
    -Part 1 - Reading, Data Logging, and Analyzing Data
    -Part 2 - Turbocharger 101 & Basic Boost Control
    -Part 3 - EcuFlash, Experimental Defintions, and a Drive By Wire Intro

  15. #29
    Moderator rage-wrx's Avatar
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    If you are looking for a Whiteline front sway bar ,it might be difficult to get.I got mine at a good price after a lot of searching.I was really hoping to put my front sway bar over the weekend,but sadly it will only get here on Monday.

    Over the weekend I learned a lot about alignments.I took my wife's SUV to get the alignment done.The guy does alignments for rally cars & he explained a lot as well as I got a lot of info from Big Sky WRX.Although I don't have to wait till after the sway bar install ,I thought I'd install it anyway & then get it done.
    T0ny
    2011 WRX
    2012 FXT

    The Big 2011/2012 Mod Thread


    Ooh,hang on. That is the throb of a turbocharged flat four engine. A sound which,all over the world,heralds the imminent arrival of a moron - JC.

  16. #30
    Registered User Heide264's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rage-wrx View Post
    If you are looking for a Whiteline front sway bar ,it might be difficult to get.I got mine at a good price after a lot of searching.I was really hoping to put my front sway bar over the weekend,but sadly it will only get here on Monday.

    Over the weekend I learned a lot about alignments.I took my wife's SUV to get the alignment done.The guy does alignments for rally cars & he explained a lot as well as I got a lot of info from Big Sky WRX.Although I don't have to wait till after the sway bar install ,I thought I'd install it anyway & then get it done.
    I was debating between whiteline and RCE. It seems the big advantage of the whitelines are that the rear comes with the additional braces which seem to help out a good bit. RCEs are a bit lighter, they don't 'walk' like the whitelines do without a hose clamp, and everybody seems to like them a bit better than the whitelines (a bunch over on iwsti have had both brands). I think I'm gonna go with RCEs and later on pick up a set of yellows/blacks from them. Can't hurt to have a set of springs that were designed with the RCE sways in mind.

    I've given up on price hunting. I just work additional overtime and say screw it at this point. The only thing I'd really want to pick up used at this point is a set of gold 17s for winter use. I have been looking around, but most STi patterns are 18s. I know some wheels come with both bolt patterns on them though.
    Quote Originally Posted by Trainrex
    He was throwing balloons filled with sulfuric acid and shrapnel at the swat team. They finally had to take him down with rubber bullets.
    2011 STi Build Log
    -Part 1 - Reading, Data Logging, and Analyzing Data
    -Part 2 - Turbocharger 101 & Basic Boost Control
    -Part 3 - EcuFlash, Experimental Defintions, and a Drive By Wire Intro

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